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Honda Accord problems
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1.find the cable that goes from the throttle body down to the front of the trans.
2.loosen the 12mm nuts and then turn the top one up about 2 turns then retighten the bottom one.
The end result should be just a small amount of slack at the throttle body so as to when the gas pedal is depressed and starts to move the trans cable follows almost right away.
To tight and the shift is late...too loose and the shift is early, so find the right place and your set.Good luck I hope I didnt confuse you,it is easier done than explained.
Before bought my car to delaer:
The car need to apply gas pedal so hard to maintain 70m/h using D4, and when release the gas padel, the car slow down very very fast
After the fix:
The car does not need to apply gas pedal to keep 70m/h,
also , the RPM drop from 2750 to 2250 @70m/h
when apply little gas again, the RPM go up to 2750 when apply more gas in D4,
I also shift down from D4 to D3 to see what gear the car is selecting , when shift to D3 @70m/h, the rpm go up to 4000
SO I guess the dealer did someting secretly or the car that I brough already has some problem in the tranmission.
anyway, you can do it yourself to see if you car has the same problem.
First to check the oil leaking from tranmission,( by the way, the transmission leaking MAY cause by the gear never engage to Final Drive.
speed up to 75, then let the car slow down to 70m/h and now check the rpm ( my car has 2250rpm)
then speed up again using very very little gas, the rpm should constanly increase
if apply more gas , the rpm should go up 500 RPM ( D4 engaged)
if shift from D4 to D3 mamually, the rpm should read ~4000 rpm
DOes anyone out there has the same problem
Another probably related problem is that the car occasionly gets stuck in park during cold weather. I am unable to push the button in on the automatic shifter lever, therefore I can't get it out of park after I turn the car on.
The problem with the key in the ignition happens anytime it gets very cold and the getting stuck in park happens less frequently. I took it to Honda and they replaced the shifter cable for a nice $300 and that did nothing. Of course I was stupid and took the car to them during a warmer spell in the winter so they felt the problem was fixed. However, once cold weather hit again the same problems came up. Has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone have any ideas/hints? I'd appreciate any advice you have. Thanks.
2nd choice would be the key itself or the ignition switch but that has nothing to do with getting stuck in gear.
One last thought is that speed related pulls are sometimes the tires and or tire presure.Make sure all presures are dead even, as 1-2lbs can make a differance sometimes.
If the alignment is good and presures are good and it still does the same, rotate the tires and see what that does for you...Good luck..
Honda has alot of recomended fluids out of which the manual trans fluid,coolant and Power stearing are the most important to use Honda. Automatic transmissions work best with Honda fluid but will work with normal ATF.As for the oil,brake fluid,washer fluid almost all of them are fine.
I know this is more info than you ask for but I got on a roll:)...See ya
I tried breaking on ice after posting my message. I heard CONTINUOUS and LOUD buzzing sound. The break pedal pushed back as I expected.
However, I also felt slow pulsations from the
pedal as if the braking disk was grinding through
an uneven surface. I learned that ABS should
pump the break about ten times per second. So, I
don't understand why there was the slow pulsations. Did anybody else have the same experience?
Now I'm sure the buzzing sound is coming from the ABS. I feel somewhat relieved after terminalis also reported the same sound (post 229). However, I still don't understand why it needs to happen every time I start my car and go.
Should I call Honda customer service or go to another dealer? I was already told by one dealer that it is completely normal.
I'm not convinced.
I could also feel slow pulsation from the pedal. It seems a lot slower than 10Hz.
I would try another Honda dealer or an independent garage. I think Honda customer service has this police that if a Honda mechanic at dealership thinks it's normal, they don't pursue this anymore. So, unless a mechanic at a Honda dealership feels that it's not normal, calling Honda wouldn't be useful. However, if a Honda mechanic doesn't exactly know whether it's noraml or not, then you could probably call Honda. They're probably contact Honda Tech Line and the service manager of the dealership.
I used to be concerned about this buzz sound when I first drove my car, and I wondered. But, now, with some major transmission problems in my car that I have to go through, I don't even want to bother with it. I don't have much energy left after hassling with service guys and Honda.
This is my first Honda, but I've driven older generation Accord. I think the older gen was actually better. This is also the first time I having trouble with a new car, which happens to be "one of the most reliable make" (I don't think it's true anymore. Maybe in 80's and early 90's, Honda was the most reliable).
What's happening to Honda lately? Am I just having a bad luck? Or, maybe Honda wants to make accord more affordable, and had to cut on the quality control. Anyway.
--terminalis
occasionly gets stuck in park during cold weather.
So I took it to my Honda guy, the cable is the correct remedy to the "getting stuck in park" he's dead sure on that one (he has mine on order). The stuck key is a bit trickier and he's not 100% sure on that, but he put Lockease (graphite oil) in it and I havent had the problem since then.
Oh yeah...HONDA's are absolutely the best cars (to me) on the road. All my friend's own Hondas (prelude, civic, integra, 3.2 tl) and they all claim fun, integrity, sportiness and bullet-proof reliability + low maintainence costs.
Reddogs,
It was great to hear that I wasn't the only one out there with this quirky ignition and park problem! I should tell you though that for my car the shifter cable was NOT the answer, because it still gets stuck in park so.....you may want to have them change your shift position switch and see if that corrects both problems, before you blow $300 bucks on a new shifter cable that may or may not fix the problem (my Honda place was also sure that a new shifter cable would fix everything!!)
Auburn63,
I called Honda and tried to get a quote on replacing the "shift position switch" and the mechanic was unfamiliar with that part. He transferred me over to Parts and they had trouble finding it. He claimed that it was listed in his computer as the "automatic switch assembly for transaxel gear position". Is that the same thing as the "shift position switch" you referred to? Also he said the part was only $43.57. How much do you estimate the labor being (ie. is this part hidden somewhere where it would take a lot of work to access or is it easily/quickly assessible?)??
Once again, thanks for any advice you can give!!
Bmofo
My dealership talked to the Honda Tech line, and they're going to replace what they told me "solenoid". My question is: if I've been drving my car like this for 5000 miles, could this have done some damage to other transmission units? Should I just let them replace the solenoid? Or should I demand an entire new transmission? (BTW, I actually feel like demanding a replacement vehicle, but something tells me it won't be possible. Anyway)
This is the brief summary of the tranny problems:
I have 2000 accord EX-V6 (~5000 miles). I had to replace the torque converter (at ~1000 miles) because of the shuddering and vibration problem. After the replacement, the car seems to shudder less although I still notice vibration at low RPM when cruising. I've been having another problem since day 1. That is, there is a clunk in D4 and D3 which is most noticeable on a hill or while entering highway. I also experienced a very loud exploding clunk at highway speed.
This is the second time they're trying to fix tranny problem I've been having. Finally, I was able to duplicate this clunk to the mechanic. He seemed pretty concerned when he felt the clunk during the road test
Can anyone advise whether I should demand a new tranny? Thanks.
--terminalis
BTW, I asked Honda for a no-cost extended warranty in written. It was denied. They wrote "your accord is still very new, and we do not feel it to be appropriate or necessary to issue a no-cost extended warranty for your vehicle, which has an excellent factory warranty of 5 years....". Yeah damn right, it's still very new, and has drive-train problems. They also wrote "we are sorry to learn of your dissatisfaction with the shift quality of your Accord's transmission". Shift quality? What kind of transmission emanates loud exploding clunk at highway speed? I explained to Honda the problems, and they think it's just a little hard shift characteristic of Honda. They just refuse to listen.
Thanks for your info. It's been great to have you here providing unbiased info about the tranny problems I've been having. I really appreciate it.
Just to clarify a few things you said:
You mentioned that the problem may have originated from solenoid, but replacing it won't probably work. Is that because other parts of the tranny have already suffered enough damage that just replacing solenoid won't be good enough? Or you think it's unlikely to be the solenoid causing the problem? Honda claims that their Techs have throughly reviewed my situation in conjunction with my dealership's senior service technician, and came up with this solenoid idea.
However, I have the impression that they think that I'm complaining about erratic annoying shifting charateristics. I told them it's a loud exploding clunk. I think they just want to believe what they want to believe. BTW, what's solenoid? They told me it's something wich allows gear to shift.
Thanks again.
--terminalis
As far as what is a solenoid? Well they are electicaly controlled valves that control presure to the trans. They can be used and are used to control shift points and lock up control for the torque converter.CPC solenoids are for the clutch presure control. They can be a source of problem and are easily changed so they want to try these before putting in a trans.
Good luck I'm sure you will be fixed soon..see ya
Thanks for your help on the key getting stuck/cable problem. I fiddled with it and found out that when the key gets stuck in the ignition the shifter was NOT in all the way to the PARK position. It was jamming just slightly out of park, it was so slight I wasn't noticing it. The cable replacement should take care of that so hopefully I wont have to wrestle with that problem.
Well, now, I guess I'll see if that solenoid trick will work. You have a good point. It's been a week since they ordered solenoid for me. I haven't heard anything from them yet. They told me that when they receive the part, they would call me to schedule an appointment. Yeah, they should've tested using solenoid from a new car, rather than making me wait. Anyway. Thanks auburn63, and I'll let you and this forum know the outcome of it.
--terminalis
If I remember correctly, I've seen posts about tranny problems for both 4 and 6 cylinders. However, I think that notorious "clunk" was mainly for V6 (BTW, odysseys are having the same tranny problems), and 4 cylinders have different kinds of tranny problems (I could be wrong).
Another thing that's relevant is that tranny problems were thought to be limited to Nov. and Oct. 1999 production. However, mine is made on Dec. I also remember other people with production date later than that (Jan, Feb 2000) reporting the same problem.
Whether you should buy accord is really up to you. But let me tell you something. If my accord didn't have to go through all the tranny problems, this car is great. It looks excellent (personal) and interior design is near perfect. But, you'll see some cost cuts, like poor insulation, lousy stereo. It's still of great value. But, if you saw my posts, mine was delivered defective, and it's a major piss off.
One word of caution. I bought the car on Jan, and was aware of the tranny problems reported here. I said to myself "come on, they're just complaining, any maker makes a lemon. they're probably exaggerating. besides it's only a small number of accord that are having problems. it wouldn't be mine". I had a bad luck, and now I'm stuck with this problematic accord. I never thought mine will be one of them. And let me tell you, (I have a forward clunk, something's wrong with the clutch pressure), when it happens it's really freaky, especially on highway.
Also, if you happen to get defective tranny, Honda wouldn't replace it with a new one. They'll give you a remanufactured tranny, if all other attempts fail (like replacing converter, solenoid, etc). Meanwhile your new car will probably undergo major surgery, only to get a used tranny installed. What a piss.
The crucial point here is how often really accords are having tranny problem. No one really knows. If, for sure it's limited to very small amount of accords, then you should risk. After all, you may get other problems if you get, say, toyota. If it's common, don't buy accord.
My advise is that drive your car thouroughly before taking delivery (you know, like 2 hours? if possible). And if the car doesn't suffer such a problem, accords are worth the money. As far as its quality lately, yes, I personally think that quality is slipping lately because Honda made it more affordable (good and bad).
Good luck!
--terminalis
Later.
--Terminalis
As far as new vs reman as I have said before the remans are great units and probably your best bet being that the transmissions that are going bad are new. With that, my thinking is that the remans will come back fixed while the new havent broke yet.If that makes any sense.These units are completely gone over so they are far from being a used unit, they leave nothing with wear on it in them.I have been installing them for a very long time and aprox 95% of them never comeback.
Terminalis, your welcome and I wish you good luck.Not to worry about the long post we can choose not to read them if we dont like them.
............see ya..........Auburn
Ur killin me with this, bought my brand new
accord (2000, EX V6, 200 hp, fully loaded)
This is the absolute dream car for my wife.
It is her car. I bought my new honda in
1988 (civic DX 4dr 16 vlv)...very happy with
it until it turned into my "poltergiest" car
18 months ago with unintended acceleration,
transmission slams, the whole nine yards...
Please don't tell me this is inherrent in the
newest Honda's....I went VTEC, fully loaded.
However, only has 125 miles and I can't beat
on it or would I until the break in period.
I am looking for a sked maint.on my civic DX
in June for the prob with unintended accelleration and until now, no one can give me
an answer. My 4 cl CIVIC is a great little
car for 12 yrs and I am concerned that this
may be inherent in the make of Honda.
My new 2000 is a dream, very nice and seems
worry free. Very good value for the money.
I got her for 23,200 with factory options
of clear coat (569), floor mats (94) and
alarm system (above and beyond the keyless
entry system).
Let me know if I can expect a problem with
my new 2000 Accord EX V6 and suggestions
for my 1988 Civic DX unintended acceleration
and idle problems. E:mail: bishopk99@yahoo.com
thanks,
KEv
Some advice-change your honda tranny ATF every 30K and use only honda ATF. I drive only highway and my ATF got dark at 70K and I got a check tranny code. Also beware of those tranny flush systems-they use a "Solvent" and betcha they do not get all of that solvent out of the tranny-then what happens to your tranny.
1. Oil
2. Coolant
3. Automatic Transmission
I know what the manual says, but am interested in your opinion.
gauge cluster, driver's door/window and most annoyingly from the sunroof. The sunroof rattles
have been driving me nuts. I have had it checked out at 3 different dealerships - 5 times in all.
They have been able to fix a couple of rattles, but not the ones coming from the sunroof.
My last service report said that the technician removed the headliner and installed some tape around the sunroof to eliminate the rattles, But that apparently has not helped. The rattles, if anything, are worse than ever before. I called American Honda, and was told to take the car back again to the dealership when the district manager is visiting.
I don't have much confidence in this problem getting fixed anymore. Do I have to live with this annoying problem, or is there something I can do?
I don't suppose that a rattle, howvever annoying it may be, qualifies a car as a lemon?
Thanks for listening.