Honda Accord problems

reddogs

Heres one that I just had, it was on a 98 Passport (I made a topic, 1145 Honda Passport Maintenance so U can post the answer there). It blew the AC fuse one morning at 10k and I took it in, I ask them to check and find out why it blew, they said a bare connector/moisture(??) must have blew the fuse. A few months later at 17k it did the same thing, went to start, no AC, I told the service rep he had to find the problem this time and he replaced the alternator, connections, but couldnt give me a good reason. A few mornings later the battery died. Now I've had batteries on Honda Accords go low/die and I know it causes other problems when this happens, could this have been the cause of the AC fuse blowing??

pat455

Hi reddogs - just wanted to let you know I copied your post over to your topic #1145 to help anyone who may have some suggestions for you.

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

auburn63

I searched for your topic and I have no doubt that it is somewhere but I couldn't find it.
So to answer your question, I had one drive me crazy but ended up finding a short under the drivers side of the radiator. There is a main harness that runs under there and the radiator has to come out in order to inspect it. There was another one that we didn't find the short and we ended up dividing the circuit up and installing seperate fuses in the problem lines. So for now if it is fixed just see if it remains fixed. Shorts are very difficult to find when they take days/months to show up then go away.Hard shorts are a piece of cake but these types are not.As far as could the battery have caused this,well anything is possible but I dont think so.Hope I have helped.
Sorry Pat for the posting in the Accord section but couldn't find his..

pat455

That's okay, auburn, but here's where it is, you can click on this link to get there: Honda Passport Maintenance (Topic #1145).

Again, we sure do appreciate all of your efforts around here. You have become a terrific resource!

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

caprirooster

Hi all,

My take on the moonroof rattle is not the seal but the metal bracket that holds the moonroof when it is open (not in popped up position). Auburn63 correct me if I am wrong...

Thanks

auburn63

We have had mostly the seal problems but anything is worth a try..Try both one at a time, maybe it has 2 noises.....

dappleby2

I'm having the same problem on my 2000 Accord. It's not the sunroof itself, but the sliding cover. When it's open, it rattles. When closed, it's silent. Is there an easy fix for this? (I also have a rattle in the dash which I'm hesitant to have the local people work on)

auburn63

Usally the shades dont make much noise fully open but if your is you can try tighting up on the slide itself. I will try and get back to you on how I have to look and see which kind of slide it has. I will try and post an answer on tuesday night as I am off on monday.
As far as the dash rattle I havent seen any of them on a 2000 yet so I will check my service news for you.

callieh

I own a 1995 Honda Accord. Just recently this awful almost grinding sound comes about when I reach highway speeds. It seems to be coming from my speedometer. (I know that sounds stupid)!
My boyfriend thinks it's have something to do with the wheel or axle or something. Has anyone ever experienced something like this before? Could it be detramental to my car? Am I making any sense? :-)

aiblue

I own 2000 Honda Accord, the sun roof start rattle next day, the auto transmission seal leaking red oil after 5000 mile. The honda QC in USA is so bad, what happen to people working in HONDA USA, are they try to balance the trouble of Amercian car with Japanese car by downgrading the QC of HONDA car. may be this is a bad choose to have the HOnda best selling car made in USA.I will not but HONDA which made in USA any more.

sirrad

My 90 Accord heater blower(fan) has packed it in. Has anyone replaced one before, and any pointers?

Thanks in advance...

mcbain2

I am in the market for a new accord but I am not sure of the quality because they are all made in the U.S.A. now. I only discovered this last week in my trip to the locale dealer. Can anyone offer his or her expertise in this subject? I have had 3 Hondas with close to 200,000 on each with no major problems I hope this can still be expected.

mcbain2

I forgot in my last post that the special ed. accord is made in Japan.

terminalis

When my accord comes to a near-stop at a corner, but without completely stopping (yeah I do that all the time before stop sign), if I try to start accelerating (moderately to quickly), I can hear and feel a clunk as if the gear abruptly changes from 1st to 2nd. If this happens on a hill, the clunk is a lot louder, and could be felt like a rear-end collision. The car hesitates and jerks with the clunk. This sounds similiar to when I park the car on a hill in P without using hand-brake and try to shift the gear to D4 to go. I've seen posts about reverse clunk, but I don't have that. It seems like I'm having forward clunk. I've also experienced a VERY loud clunk in D4 at highway speed, which freaked me out once. Since it doesn't happen consistently, it's been hard to convince service Dept. at my dealership to do something about it. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.
--terminalis

terminalis

zgliu,

My accord also makes that sound every time I start a car and go. It happens consistently, and sounds like a motor or some kind of pressurizing mechanism. I didn't pay much attention to it since it seems reasonable for ABS break to pressurize. As you probably know already, Auburn63 posted about it before. I hope this buzz sound isn't a sign of a problem. I'm having enough troubles already with the tranny!

--terminalis

auburn63

It sounds as if maybe you have a wheel bearing going bad. Try to gently shift the cars weight from left to right by slightly turning left and right. If the sounds get better or worse as you do this then a bearing is probably bad. If no change in noise maybe you have brakes that are metal to metal or maybe you have a bad speedometer. Let me know how you make out..

auburn63

Honda has made cars in the USA for a long time now,atleast since the mid 80's.You can tell by the first digit in the VIN.If it is a "J"=Japan
"1"=USA,"2"=Canada. Honda no matter where it is made is still a very good product and all car makers have there problems. I still think that Honda made vehicles are the best out there.Of course this excludes the Passport for now but it isn't all that bad either.

auburn63

What year and make Honda? How many miles on it?If it is an older one like 86-89 it probably needs a trans.90 and up are differant trans's.So let us know.

terminalis

auburn63,

Thanks for your reply.

My car is Accord EX-V6 2000. I bought it new on January, 2000. It has 3000 miles now. My car experienced this clunk since the beggining, but I think it's got worse lately. I notice this a lot more recently, especially on a hill.

Just a little bit of my Accord's history in only 2 months of ownership:

1. The car shuddered at low RPM at low speed (below 55mph, most noticeable at 45 and 25 mph). Torque converter was replaced.

2. The new torque converter seems to have made the gear shifting somewhat smoother. The car seems to drive smoother in general as well. However, I still experience shudder at 20-25 mph, which seems to occur most often after 1st to 2nd gear shift.

3. I experienced a REALLY REALLY loud, exploding clunk on highway at around 55mph when cruising. I'm certain it wasn't a small piece of wood, rubber, holes or etc. It was my car.

4. The rest is what I've described in the previous post "Help! Tranny Problem: Different Kind of Clunk".

I don't know what's going on with my car. The car seems to drive OK otherwise although I noticed that the engine sounds a lot louder than before when accerelating. This is the first time I'm having problems since the first day of ownership. I had Buick Century and Hyundai Elantra (both bought new). I didn't have any problem with these. In fact, I think my Accord's launch feel and the gear shifting are worse than my old Hyundai Elantra, which had nice feel between gear shifting, and had no vibration during launch. Buick Century was even better. I guess I'm being unlucky this time with my Honda purchase.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

--terminalis

hzajicek

Hey everyone, I had some problems with my 1999
Accord in January and got some real good advice
here.
The problem was that the car " turned itself off"
at 70 mph on the highway.
After several trips to the dealer they concluded
it was the main fuel relay which was consequently
exchanged and showed a production blemish.
Case closed.
Now I have had this happen to me 3 more times (4th
time overall) and I am facing my 4th encounter
with the service manager. They don't know what is
wrong....

Has anyone heard of such a problem? Can anyone
enlighten me? I am really getting frustrated.

my old posting from January:

I drove down the highway a few days ago and my
engine turned itself off @ 70 miles per hour. All
the warning lights came on, the power steering was
gone and I coasted to the emergency lane. I was
totally baffled and about to call AAA when I
thought about trying to restart and it worked. I
drove home without problems and to the dealer that
same night. They couldn't find anything and said
something about the idle speed having to be
readjusted, which they supposedly did.
On my way home though the same thing happened
again except this time the motor just had a
"hiccup". It didn't stop, just the RPM's fell and
then quickly recovered. So this time I was able to
keep on driving. I brought it back to the dealer
who is looking into it now again.

Does anyone have suggestions what this could be or
has this happened to anyone? I would greatly
appreciate it !

606zpx

I have a 94 Accord with an Automatic and approx. 115K miles. This has been an awesome car, but it has developed what seems to be a major problem.
Ive always noticed that it was an abrubt shifter and sometimes when downshifting it would rev excessively, but it otherwise ran fine.
In the past day it shifts from park to first a little delayed but OK. But it may over-rev going to second then shifts very slowly and gradually. Once in second, it again may rev when gas is applied and may not want to shift to third.
The best way I can describe this is as if it were a manual with the clutch going bad. Other than the revving there are no unusual noises.
Any comments/help are greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance
606

sirrad

Is it depending on the RPM? Maybe you have it on a lower gearing and hit the engine rev limiter. I know my SiR rev limits at 8300, and there is an install shutdown, and kicks back in when the revs drops back down to around 7600.
Just a thought...

Rad

hzajicek

Thanks for your input Rad

This happened in 5th gear (I have a stick shift) and I was just cruising, hardly on the gas pedal. Also, this has happened now both at low speed (rolling to a stop while already in neutral and off the clutch) and while in idle for 2 minutes, again in neutral with the hand brake on.
The other thing is that the engine just turns itself off, pretty much like when you turn the key. The lights that come on are the usual ones when you turn the car off (Oil, Brake, Doors). There is no " fight". The motor is not "dying".
H

606zpx

Well I went to drive it to the Honda dealership and it decided that it just doesnt want to move in any forward gears. It just revs as if in neutral. I did notice a winding noise (kind of like a belt noise when it revs). Oh well, better break out my wallet.
606

auburn63

Sounds to me like you need to go back to the dealer. They may have left something loose and or you may have a trans going bad on you.First have them look over the car and see if maybe they left a mount loose or something like that. We have had one or two shift harsh and have to be replaced. There was another one in which the clutch presure control valve was bad. On that one, it seemed as if the trans would shift from 1st to 3rd skipping 2nd and causing a shudder.Also on that one, downshift was very strange when coming to a stop.Sorry to hear that you are having such problems with your Honda they are normaly real good cars.Give the dealer a chance to drive yours.
Good luck

auburn63

Check the following or have someone check them for you
1. Fluid level and condition
2. Throtle pressure cable adjustment, this cable runs down from the throtle plate to the trans and should basicly start to move at same time throtle plate starts to open
3. The trans could be on it way out have the pressures checked and have it checked for an external filter.Only aftermarket installs or reman trans will have this extra external filter.If it has one they can clogg and cause these problems.

auburn63

Dont really have an answer for the cruising at 70 mph one, I have never heard of that one.The coming to a stop with foot of the clutch but car still rolling is a possible problem. For some reason they dont like to idle crusing in neutral. It's inputs confuse the computer for what is supposed to be the normal. Meaning clutch switch/pedal depressed while coming to a stop.As far as possible cures,try having the dealer adjust the idle alittle higher. There is a service news or bulletin for stalling or low idle at times.So have them try an adjustment.If they dont what you are talking about let me know I will try and find the actual write up and give you word for word on it.

hzajicek

Thanks auburn, that sounds really interesting. Do you work for Honda? If not, they ought to hire you !!
If you could get me a link to that actual bulletin, that would be great.

They have told me something about idle speed twice. On my first visit they adjusted it, on my third visit they re-adjusted it stating it wasn't enough. Well, it still happened again and so now they have my car for the 4th time.
So maybe they have heard about this bulletin after all. They also are in contact with the Honda tech line (at least that is what they tell me).
H

spokane

The engine shut-down problem could be associated with the electrical/electronic engine control circuitry. However, with your symptoms, the fuel pump circuitry (including the main fuel relay) are the likely problem even though the relay was replaced once before. Unlike a carburetted engine which will surge and sputter as it runs out of fuel, this fuel injection system is such that a failure of the fuel pump or its electrics will cause the engine to stop firing almost immediately. Indeed, the driver's sensation is the same as that of turning off the ignition. Very importantly, this type of failure will not register a diagnostic trouble code in the engine control computer. Most other types of failures would be logged by the computer.

The following procedure can help isolate the problem: The next time the problem occurs, turn the key off immediately. Wrap the fuel filter carefully with a rag and slightly loosen the bolt on top of the filter. (This bolt requires either a 10-mm or a 12-mm wrench.) If no fuel squirts from the loosened fitting, the fuel pump or its circuitry is defective. WARNING -- If the fuel pressure is good (~40 psi), gasoline will bleed from this fitting so there is some fire hazard. Please don't do this test unless you are experienced in this type of work.

A final comment: The idle adjustment had nothing to do with this problem. If the shop implied otherwise, I suggest you consider seeing a different shop.

Good luck.

spokane

Please note that I am not contradicting the response from Auburn63. His advice should be very carefully considered if your problem is limited to idle or near-idle conditions. My comments presume that the problem also occurs at part-throttle (cruise) conditions. Sorry if it seemed that I disagreed with Auburn63; he is clearly very knowledgeable.

bayareadriver

Auburn63's advise is great! One more thing for the dealer to check is the connector pins in the clutch presure control valve switch, Given all the tranny work you've had done, those pins are easily damaged.

606zpx

Well the Honda guys tried changing the shift modulator with one they had handy and when cold the tranny worked alright. Once it warmed up it was back to no go. I checked the fluid level and it was full and seemed to be clean. There is no external filter as this remains stock from the factory. Those guys are gonna change the fluid and see if that helps.
They have already given me quotes of replacement.
Used (original car had 30K miles) with 30 day warranty is 1250-installed.
Honda reman with 3/36 warranty is 2750-installed.
OUCH!
If I have to replace I must admit Iam leaning toward the used. What do ya'll think??
606

auburn63

We use the same options as you are being given and we have had good luck with our local used supplier.The cold shifting but not warm syndrom is probably an internal clog in one of the filters inside the trans so what ever route you choose just make sure they are including a trans line flush with it.The 3/36 warranty and a factory reman unit is the best choice but you got to do what the budget allows. Good luck either way.
By the way thanks to all for the positive comments on my post...

606zpx

Thanks for all the helpful input!!
So are you saying that although the tranny is getting replaced that something still needs flushing? To update, changing the fluid did no good so Iam only left with replacement at this point.

auburn63

I couldn't find the service news on it but I do know that it says you must use the PGMFI tester in order to properly change the computers setting. It goes on to say that you are supposed to turn out the adjuster 2 complete turns. It is a known fix for the idle/near idle stalling but cant see it effecting cruising with foot on pedal.
By the way I have worked for Honda for 16yrs now and was cruising the web and found this forum and figured I would kill some time here for a while.Well good luck with your problem...

auburn63

Yes if you go with the used trans see if they have a trans flush machine. If not then see if they would be willing to change the fluid for you a week or so later just as a precaution. Also ask them to blow out the lines going to the cooler if they dont normaly do this when they replace the trans.
If you go reman then just blowing out the cooler will be good enough.

606zpx

I'll see what I can do. I'm going with the used. I figure since its a low mileage unit, odds are its gonna be okay. If not I could buy a second used unit and still not have met the price of the reman unit. There's no right answer though. Anyway, I appreciate all your help.

By the way, have you seen many of the 94-95 accord with fuel tank sending unit problems. For the last 30-40K miles the guage has not read accurate, and Im pretty sure I read somewhere else that there was a problem with this and there happened to be a TSB.

THanks

terminalis

auburn63 and bayareadriver,

Thanks a lot for your comments. I'll mention your comments to the service people at my dealership.

I think it's great to have forum like Edmund's, and to have knowledgeable people like you guys. I'm getting more honest info and help from here than from my dealership or any other garage. After my torque converter replacement, the service guys at my dealership are giving me run-arounds. You know, when you walk into the store, you see the expression on their faces, 'oh, not again'. They have also dented my car's door and the rear bumber (which they fixed for free and gave me a loaner. It seems accidental but still I don't appreciate doing this on a new car) Anyway, I'm going to them for the first oil change, and I'll mention to them. If they don't do anything this time, I'll file a complain and I'll go to another dealership. Besides, I already sent a letter to Honda, but they haven't got back to me yet. My car is now making more and more loud popping, metallic clunk almost every time driving up a hill. Anyway, I'll let you know how it'll turn out.

Thanks auburn63, bayareadriver and others in this forum for help.

--terminalis

reddogs

....:0)

auburn63

Sometimes it takes a fresh person and or dealer to solve annoying problems.Most of the time due to how we get paid when a car comes back the same guy gets it back. That does not always allow for the car to be fixed correctly, if he couldnt fix it the first and second time chances are he may not be the right guy for your car..Good luck..

auburn63

Yes I have seen them go bad, most of which are fixed by now but I guess not all since your's isn't.Anyhow they usally dont read full when they really are and or they go from full to half real quick.They come out easy enough to have them checked and or replaced.

hzajicek

Thank you guys for your input, I am actually meeting with the service manager today and I hope I can give them some ideas....
I want to mention that one of the things that has driven me crazy in this is that their only approach is to take my car and drive it around with the diagnostic computer hooked up (for up to a week at a time). Now, once you have done this 4 times it seems you might start approaching this problem from a different angle...
Your input shows that with a little bit of thinking one can at least start to eliminate possible reasons one by one. I lack the knowledge in cars but I can appreciate when diagnostic skills are at work (your brains) or just a computer...
Thanks again and I'll post any further news at this website.

PS auburn63, I am glad people like you work for Honda.

nato1

recently the ignitor module let go on my accord (105K mi). has anyone had any luck in getting 'honda care' (7 yr/ 100k bump-bump warranty) to pay for partial cost after the expiration of the contract? The last I remeber, the ignitor modules usually last quite a bit longer than 105K.

next question/comment.
I have heard alot about the front seal (harmonic balancer shaft) letting go. I hope every body knows that the 2.2l i4 is a 3.5 qt engine, not 4qt as most 'quick lube' places will overfill to. Are the cars with the seals letting go having the oil changed at the dealer or local or quick lube?

last question/comment:
Since I bought my accord, the front rotors would warp. I tried new rotors and pads, but eventually they warped too (<10k). I had replaced the rear pads (4-wheel disc w/abs) and noticed that the caliper slides were seized and that the pads were way too tight in the 'tracks'. I put in new pads and rotors, but the pads needed to be modified. The ears on the pads are too big, or the tracks in the calipers/brake assm are too small (depends how its looked at). I grinded down the ears (about 1/8" from both sides-not off!) and made the pads fit (and the oem pads are the same way), and put the the sythetic cal grease on the caliper slide pins. Since then (about 50k worth) of driving I have had no problems with the brakes, except they launch you through the windshield.

Thanks

auburn63

All you can do is talk to them and see if they will extend your warranty but there is no real time limit on an electrical component.The one you had put in could go bad in 100 miles if spiked or something. But if you don't ask you will never know.
As far as the balance seal goes we have seen no rhyme or reason for those letting go. They seem to have a mind of there own regardless of the oil level. However there is a seal holder now available to hold them in place for good, so if you haven't had your timing belt replaced then when you do have them install one. The brake problem you had is a strange one,we install the OEM stuff with no grinding necessary and lube the slide pins and away they go with no problems.But hey if it worked for you then great all that is important is that you stop, right..lol..Any how have a good one, see ya

auburn63

Your welcome, I hope everything works out well for you.Good luck and thanks for you comments.

snowman

Hi,
I am glad you are here. I have a question about brakes. Have you ever used after market rotors and pads for late model Accords with satisfactory results. If yes, what was the brand name or you advise me to get dealer parts?
Thanks

auburn63

Hello,
Well I always recomend OEM Parts there is nothing that fits as well or out performs them. I don't like aftermarket parts at all. It seems that they do not keep the feel as good as original parts. I have had nothing but head aches with after market stuff.Can you tell I dont like them much...lol..Have a good one,see ya

urchin34

You are incredible. I hope Honda and your dealer recognize it. If I had received the same courteous and concerned approach with my Accord that you demonstrate here, I'd be buying Honda's for life. Unfortunately for me, I went more than seven years with a faulty main relay that left me stranded over 100 times (usually in 100 degree plus heat). The day they finally fixed the relay, I picked up the car, drove down the street to gas up, and then couldn't shift it out of park (108 degrees that day). Once I use the key to get it shifted, the service rep just told me I'd be okay if just didn't shift it into park. When I ultimately complained higher up, they just refused to service me anymore.

It is too bad that Honda doesn't recognize how one driver with problems like this can influence so many others (not here, but those who have been with me through the problems), so I hope they recognize how one great service person can also affect customer choice. So, can I bring my Rodeo to you when it finally needs work?

auburn63

Thanks,
I found this place surfing around one night and figured I would hang here for a little while and see if I could help out. Glad to hear that I can, atleast some of the time.I just cant believe they told you not to shift to park, thats just not right.On those you either clean the shift position switch or replace it.
Well as long as you would want to take a trip to the Northeast, sure I could work on the Rodeo.Not a great fan of working on them, I have been spoiled over the years with Honda not having any trucks. But those days are over with a bang,trucks,vans,and now electrical cars where will it end.
Good luck with your vehicles and thanks again..

dyanb

Hi, I'm new to this board, but I think I found the right place! I just bought a 1992 Accord EX with 85,000 miles. The car is beautiful inside and out. My only concern is that it seems to shift abruptly. It kinda hangs onto that lower gear for as long as possible before shifting up, and when it finally does, it gives a good jerk. To me, this seems abnormal. I've never had a Honda with an automatic transmission before, so maybe it's just me??? Anyone know? Thanks!