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Honda Accord problems
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Comments
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
So to answer your question, I had one drive me crazy but ended up finding a short under the drivers side of the radiator. There is a main harness that runs under there and the radiator has to come out in order to inspect it. There was another one that we didn't find the short and we ended up dividing the circuit up and installing seperate fuses in the problem lines. So for now if it is fixed just see if it remains fixed. Shorts are very difficult to find when they take days/months to show up then go away.Hard shorts are a piece of cake but these types are not.As far as could the battery have caused this,well anything is possible but I dont think so.Hope I have helped.
Sorry Pat for the posting in the Accord section but couldn't find his..
Again, we sure do appreciate all of your efforts around here. You have become a terrific resource!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
My take on the moonroof rattle is not the seal but the metal bracket that holds the moonroof when it is open (not in popped up position). Auburn63 correct me if I am wrong...
Thanks
As far as the dash rattle I havent seen any of them on a 2000 yet so I will check my service news for you.
My boyfriend thinks it's have something to do with the wheel or axle or something. Has anyone ever experienced something like this before? Could it be detramental to my car? Am I making any sense? :-)
Thanks in advance...
--terminalis
My accord also makes that sound every time I start a car and go. It happens consistently, and sounds like a motor or some kind of pressurizing mechanism. I didn't pay much attention to it since it seems reasonable for ABS break to pressurize. As you probably know already, Auburn63 posted about it before. I hope this buzz sound isn't a sign of a problem. I'm having enough troubles already with the tranny!
--terminalis
"1"=USA,"2"=Canada. Honda no matter where it is made is still a very good product and all car makers have there problems. I still think that Honda made vehicles are the best out there.Of course this excludes the Passport for now but it isn't all that bad either.
Thanks for your reply.
My car is Accord EX-V6 2000. I bought it new on January, 2000. It has 3000 miles now. My car experienced this clunk since the beggining, but I think it's got worse lately. I notice this a lot more recently, especially on a hill.
Just a little bit of my Accord's history in only 2 months of ownership:
1. The car shuddered at low RPM at low speed (below 55mph, most noticeable at 45 and 25 mph). Torque converter was replaced.
2. The new torque converter seems to have made the gear shifting somewhat smoother. The car seems to drive smoother in general as well. However, I still experience shudder at 20-25 mph, which seems to occur most often after 1st to 2nd gear shift.
3. I experienced a REALLY REALLY loud, exploding clunk on highway at around 55mph when cruising. I'm certain it wasn't a small piece of wood, rubber, holes or etc. It was my car.
4. The rest is what I've described in the previous post "Help! Tranny Problem: Different Kind of Clunk".
I don't know what's going on with my car. The car seems to drive OK otherwise although I noticed that the engine sounds a lot louder than before when accerelating. This is the first time I'm having problems since the first day of ownership. I had Buick Century and Hyundai Elantra (both bought new). I didn't have any problem with these. In fact, I think my Accord's launch feel and the gear shifting are worse than my old Hyundai Elantra, which had nice feel between gear shifting, and had no vibration during launch. Buick Century was even better. I guess I'm being unlucky this time with my Honda purchase.
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
--terminalis
Accord in January and got some real good advice
here.
The problem was that the car " turned itself off"
at 70 mph on the highway.
After several trips to the dealer they concluded
it was the main fuel relay which was consequently
exchanged and showed a production blemish.
Case closed.
Now I have had this happen to me 3 more times (4th
time overall) and I am facing my 4th encounter
with the service manager. They don't know what is
wrong....
Has anyone heard of such a problem? Can anyone
enlighten me? I am really getting frustrated.
my old posting from January:
I drove down the highway a few days ago and my
engine turned itself off @ 70 miles per hour. All
the warning lights came on, the power steering was
gone and I coasted to the emergency lane. I was
totally baffled and about to call AAA when I
thought about trying to restart and it worked. I
drove home without problems and to the dealer that
same night. They couldn't find anything and said
something about the idle speed having to be
readjusted, which they supposedly did.
On my way home though the same thing happened
again except this time the motor just had a
"hiccup". It didn't stop, just the RPM's fell and
then quickly recovered. So this time I was able to
keep on driving. I brought it back to the dealer
who is looking into it now again.
Does anyone have suggestions what this could be or
has this happened to anyone? I would greatly
appreciate it !
Ive always noticed that it was an abrubt shifter and sometimes when downshifting it would rev excessively, but it otherwise ran fine.
In the past day it shifts from park to first a little delayed but OK. But it may over-rev going to second then shifts very slowly and gradually. Once in second, it again may rev when gas is applied and may not want to shift to third.
The best way I can describe this is as if it were a manual with the clutch going bad. Other than the revving there are no unusual noises.
Any comments/help are greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance
606
Just a thought...
Rad
This happened in 5th gear (I have a stick shift) and I was just cruising, hardly on the gas pedal. Also, this has happened now both at low speed (rolling to a stop while already in neutral and off the clutch) and while in idle for 2 minutes, again in neutral with the hand brake on.
The other thing is that the engine just turns itself off, pretty much like when you turn the key. The lights that come on are the usual ones when you turn the car off (Oil, Brake, Doors). There is no " fight". The motor is not "dying".
H
606
Good luck
1. Fluid level and condition
2. Throtle pressure cable adjustment, this cable runs down from the throtle plate to the trans and should basicly start to move at same time throtle plate starts to open
3. The trans could be on it way out have the pressures checked and have it checked for an external filter.Only aftermarket installs or reman trans will have this extra external filter.If it has one they can clogg and cause these problems.
If you could get me a link to that actual bulletin, that would be great.
They have told me something about idle speed twice. On my first visit they adjusted it, on my third visit they re-adjusted it stating it wasn't enough. Well, it still happened again and so now they have my car for the 4th time.
So maybe they have heard about this bulletin after all. They also are in contact with the Honda tech line (at least that is what they tell me).
H
The following procedure can help isolate the problem: The next time the problem occurs, turn the key off immediately. Wrap the fuel filter carefully with a rag and slightly loosen the bolt on top of the filter. (This bolt requires either a 10-mm or a 12-mm wrench.) If no fuel squirts from the loosened fitting, the fuel pump or its circuitry is defective. WARNING -- If the fuel pressure is good (~40 psi), gasoline will bleed from this fitting so there is some fire hazard. Please don't do this test unless you are experienced in this type of work.
A final comment: The idle adjustment had nothing to do with this problem. If the shop implied otherwise, I suggest you consider seeing a different shop.
Good luck.
They have already given me quotes of replacement.
Used (original car had 30K miles) with 30 day warranty is 1250-installed.
Honda reman with 3/36 warranty is 2750-installed.
OUCH!
If I have to replace I must admit Iam leaning toward the used. What do ya'll think??
606
By the way thanks to all for the positive comments on my post...
So are you saying that although the tranny is getting replaced that something still needs flushing? To update, changing the fluid did no good so Iam only left with replacement at this point.
By the way I have worked for Honda for 16yrs now and was cruising the web and found this forum and figured I would kill some time here for a while.Well good luck with your problem...
If you go reman then just blowing out the cooler will be good enough.
By the way, have you seen many of the 94-95 accord with fuel tank sending unit problems. For the last 30-40K miles the guage has not read accurate, and Im pretty sure I read somewhere else that there was a problem with this and there happened to be a TSB.
THanks
Thanks a lot for your comments. I'll mention your comments to the service people at my dealership.
I think it's great to have forum like Edmund's, and to have knowledgeable people like you guys. I'm getting more honest info and help from here than from my dealership or any other garage. After my torque converter replacement, the service guys at my dealership are giving me run-arounds. You know, when you walk into the store, you see the expression on their faces, 'oh, not again'. They have also dented my car's door and the rear bumber (which they fixed for free and gave me a loaner. It seems accidental but still I don't appreciate doing this on a new car) Anyway, I'm going to them for the first oil change, and I'll mention to them. If they don't do anything this time, I'll file a complain and I'll go to another dealership. Besides, I already sent a letter to Honda, but they haven't got back to me yet. My car is now making more and more loud popping, metallic clunk almost every time driving up a hill. Anyway, I'll let you know how it'll turn out.
Thanks auburn63, bayareadriver and others in this forum for help.
--terminalis
I want to mention that one of the things that has driven me crazy in this is that their only approach is to take my car and drive it around with the diagnostic computer hooked up (for up to a week at a time). Now, once you have done this 4 times it seems you might start approaching this problem from a different angle...
Your input shows that with a little bit of thinking one can at least start to eliminate possible reasons one by one. I lack the knowledge in cars but I can appreciate when diagnostic skills are at work (your brains) or just a computer...
Thanks again and I'll post any further news at this website.
PS auburn63, I am glad people like you work for Honda.
next question/comment.
I have heard alot about the front seal (harmonic balancer shaft) letting go. I hope every body knows that the 2.2l i4 is a 3.5 qt engine, not 4qt as most 'quick lube' places will overfill to. Are the cars with the seals letting go having the oil changed at the dealer or local or quick lube?
last question/comment:
Since I bought my accord, the front rotors would warp. I tried new rotors and pads, but eventually they warped too (<10k). I had replaced the rear pads (4-wheel disc w/abs) and noticed that the caliper slides were seized and that the pads were way too tight in the 'tracks'. I put in new pads and rotors, but the pads needed to be modified. The ears on the pads are too big, or the tracks in the calipers/brake assm are too small (depends how its looked at). I grinded down the ears (about 1/8" from both sides-not off!) and made the pads fit (and the oem pads are the same way), and put the the sythetic cal grease on the caliper slide pins. Since then (about 50k worth) of driving I have had no problems with the brakes, except they launch you through the windshield.
Thanks
As far as the balance seal goes we have seen no rhyme or reason for those letting go. They seem to have a mind of there own regardless of the oil level. However there is a seal holder now available to hold them in place for good, so if you haven't had your timing belt replaced then when you do have them install one. The brake problem you had is a strange one,we install the OEM stuff with no grinding necessary and lube the slide pins and away they go with no problems.But hey if it worked for you then great all that is important is that you stop, right..lol..Any how have a good one, see ya
I am glad you are here. I have a question about brakes. Have you ever used after market rotors and pads for late model Accords with satisfactory results. If yes, what was the brand name or you advise me to get dealer parts?
Thanks
Well I always recomend OEM Parts there is nothing that fits as well or out performs them. I don't like aftermarket parts at all. It seems that they do not keep the feel as good as original parts. I have had nothing but head aches with after market stuff.Can you tell I dont like them much...lol..Have a good one,see ya
It is too bad that Honda doesn't recognize how one driver with problems like this can influence so many others (not here, but those who have been with me through the problems), so I hope they recognize how one great service person can also affect customer choice. So, can I bring my Rodeo to you when it finally needs work?
I found this place surfing around one night and figured I would hang here for a little while and see if I could help out. Glad to hear that I can, atleast some of the time.I just cant believe they told you not to shift to park, thats just not right.On those you either clean the shift position switch or replace it.
Well as long as you would want to take a trip to the Northeast, sure I could work on the Rodeo.Not a great fan of working on them, I have been spoiled over the years with Honda not having any trucks. But those days are over with a bang,trucks,vans,and now electrical cars where will it end.
Good luck with your vehicles and thanks again..