Well it could be you, we have alot of people that are new to Honda complain about the way they shift.How ever, if it is real bad then you may want to adjust the throttle presure cable. To do this is simple but if you have no tools then have a Honda shop do it for you.To adjust 1.find the cable that goes from the throttle body down to the front of the trans. 2.loosen the 12mm nuts and then turn the top one up about 2 turns then retighten the bottom one. The end result should be just a small amount of slack at the throttle body so as to when the gas pedal is depressed and starts to move the trans cable follows almost right away. To tight and the shift is late...too loose and the shift is early, so find the right place and your set.Good luck I hope I didnt confuse you,it is easier done than explained.
I have been reading some of the various Honda Accord postings throughout this site. I own a 2000 EX Civic and was considering trading it in on a Accord Coupe in either the LX or EX. The reason being headroom constraints because of the power moonroof. I am used to the bigger clunker Grand Prix SE that I owned which had ample head room but was still a piece of junk. So now I'm in the market for a mid-sized coupe. I am disturbed at what I've been hearing about the Accord coupes and in particular the EX V-6's. Has anyone else had problems as in the LX V-6 also? I would like the V-6 but I think I could live with the 4 banger . Power isn't a huge concern but if these posts are true I don't want a crappy transmission on a car that will spend most of its time in the shop. Has anyone had problems with any Accord trim line with the 4 banger? Please follow up. Thanks!
I bought 2000 honda Accord EX V6 , after 5000 mile, I saw red oil leaking from transmission, I have dealer fix the leaking problem, now when I drive my car on freeway, the car run very very smooth, , I did not notice at first, I have my girl friend drive, and she feel the same way, Now , I notice the RPM metter now is very funny
Before bought my car to delaer: The car need to apply gas pedal so hard to maintain 70m/h using D4, and when release the gas padel, the car slow down very very fast
After the fix: The car does not need to apply gas pedal to keep 70m/h, also , the RPM drop from 2750 to 2250 @70m/h when apply little gas again, the RPM go up to 2750 when apply more gas in D4, I also shift down from D4 to D3 to see what gear the car is selecting , when shift to D3 @70m/h, the rpm go up to 4000 SO I guess the dealer did someting secretly or the car that I brough already has some problem in the tranmission. anyway, you can do it yourself to see if you car has the same problem.
First to check the oil leaking from tranmission,( by the way, the transmission leaking MAY cause by the gear never engage to Final Drive.
speed up to 75, then let the car slow down to 70m/h and now check the rpm ( my car has 2250rpm)
then speed up again using very very little gas, the rpm should constanly increase
if apply more gas , the rpm should go up 500 RPM ( D4 engaged)
if shift from D4 to D3 mamually, the rpm should read ~4000 rpm
That is, the time When Things Go Wrong. I have a '94 Accord DX 5-speed that gave me five years and 50,000 miles' worth of troublefree driving. BUT: In December, the starter died out, and then, just this weekend, the balance seal (or maybe the crankshaft seal) blew out while I was driving, spewing a trail of oil down the street, so that anybody who wanted to follow me that day could have traced a path. Fortunately, the oil light didn't come on until I was a couple blocks from reaching home. My mechanic tells me that these seals seem to blow out on Accords of this generation with increasing frequency and says he's surprised there wasn't a recall (or a hidden recall). Any chance there might be one that I hadn't heard about?
I own a 1990, automatic, Honda Accord (100,000 miles). For the past 2-3 years I have had trouble getting the key out of the ignition when the temp drops roughly below freezing. The key will turn far enough to turn the car off, but it won't turn any further so I can't remove the key. This is obviously very annoying in that I have to carry two keys (one to unlock the door when I return to the car). Also if I wait a variable period of time (longer if it is colder) the key will eventually come out, anywhere from 15 secs to 24 hrs!! Another probably related problem is that the car occasionly gets stuck in park during cold weather. I am unable to push the button in on the automatic shifter lever, therefore I can't get it out of park after I turn the car on. The problem with the key in the ignition happens anytime it gets very cold and the getting stuck in park happens less frequently. I took it to Honda and they replaced the shifter cable for a nice $300 and that did nothing. Of course I was stupid and took the car to them during a warmer spell in the winter so they felt the problem was fixed. However, once cold weather hit again the same problems came up. Has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone have any ideas/hints? I'd appreciate any advice you have. Thanks.
From your complaint I think you may need a Trans shift position switch. These can be cleaned but replacement is usally a sure fix. 2nd choice would be the key itself or the ignition switch but that has nothing to do with getting stuck in gear.
I just bought a 4 door 2000 Accord LX. I took it on a trip recently and noticed that it has a pull to the right (this only after a couple thousand miles). This pull only occurs at highway speeds (above 50 mph) and is not noticeable on takeoff or around town. So I took it to the dealer who told me it was the angle of the freeway that made it pull. However, I explained that it pulled even when the road was not tilted to the right. We went out for a drive with a mechanic. He got it to 55 mph and let go of the steering wheel. He began counting, telling me that Honda allows a few seconds for "drift". He told me that he did notice it going to the right but that it was within the "parameters for lane-drift" set by Honda. I told him that it pulled much worse at 70 but he said "drift is tested at 55 mph". I will not type what I said next, however after my response, he told me that mine was not the only 2000 Honda to have this problem. He then told me that he had made a minor adjustment to other cars in order to fix the problem. He said that a new arm of some sort would fix the problem, but that he would attempt to make an adjustment without it since Honda had not yet acknowledged that this problem even exists with the 2000's. He made the adjustment and I noticed a very minor difference, but not much at all. I am under the impression that when these cars come off the line, a problem such as the one I am describing can occur in many cars. Since I am the only person on this page to notice this problem, maybe I am wrong. I am taking it back to the dealer to complain again. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
Well there is such a thing as road crown and it does cause some cars to drift.If you have a highway with three lanes, then the middle of the two is the best test lane. If not, then you have to drive in the left lane to see if the drift is now to the left.This kinda lets you know if it is the road crown. If you are still thinking that you have a drift/pull after testing it then insist on getting an alignment to see what the specs are. These dont lie, if they read within the parameters then your car is fine, if not then have them adjust it.
One last thought is that speed related pulls are sometimes the tires and or tire presure.Make sure all presures are dead even, as 1-2lbs can make a differance sometimes. If the alignment is good and presures are good and it still does the same, rotate the tires and see what that does for you...Good luck..
Auburn63, does Honda put a "break-in" oil in new Hondas? I have read this on other posts on the AOL board. I changed mine at 2,000 miles, and now wonder if this was not a good idea. Your thoughts?
Yes they do and they say to leave it in for 7500. However I wouldnt worry about it if you changed it already. We have done many oil changes at 3000 or so and they are running fine. Honda has alot of recomended fluids out of which the manual trans fluid,coolant and Power stearing are the most important to use Honda. Automatic transmissions work best with Honda fluid but will work with normal ATF.As for the oil,brake fluid,washer fluid almost all of them are fine. I know this is more info than you ask for but I got on a roll:)...See ya
I tried breaking on ice after posting my message. I heard CONTINUOUS and LOUD buzzing sound. The break pedal pushed back as I expected. However, I also felt slow pulsations from the pedal as if the braking disk was grinding through an uneven surface. I learned that ABS should pump the break about ten times per second. So, I don't understand why there was the slow pulsations. Did anybody else have the same experience?
Now I'm sure the buzzing sound is coming from the ABS. I feel somewhat relieved after terminalis also reported the same sound (post 229). However, I still don't understand why it needs to happen every time I start my car and go.
Should I call Honda customer service or go to another dealer? I was already told by one dealer that it is completely normal.
I could also feel slow pulsation from the pedal. It seems a lot slower than 10Hz.
I would try another Honda dealer or an independent garage. I think Honda customer service has this police that if a Honda mechanic at dealership thinks it's normal, they don't pursue this anymore. So, unless a mechanic at a Honda dealership feels that it's not normal, calling Honda wouldn't be useful. However, if a Honda mechanic doesn't exactly know whether it's noraml or not, then you could probably call Honda. They're probably contact Honda Tech Line and the service manager of the dealership.
I used to be concerned about this buzz sound when I first drove my car, and I wondered. But, now, with some major transmission problems in my car that I have to go through, I don't even want to bother with it. I don't have much energy left after hassling with service guys and Honda.
This is my first Honda, but I've driven older generation Accord. I think the older gen was actually better. This is also the first time I having trouble with a new car, which happens to be "one of the most reliable make" (I don't think it's true anymore. Maybe in 80's and early 90's, Honda was the most reliable).
What's happening to Honda lately? Am I just having a bad luck? Or, maybe Honda wants to make accord more affordable, and had to cut on the quality control. Anyway.
I have a 93' Accord SE with 132,000 miles. It has been making a dragging/scratching/grinding noise when I accelerate, up to 30-40 mph. The noise stops when I really slam the pedal down. The noise occurs in every gear (I have an automatic). Btw, nothing is actually dragging on the ground! Service guys at Honda suggested the car's exhaust system may be the cause. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I have a 96 4-door Accord EX. The exhaust probably needs to be replaced due to rotting. While I live in New England where salt is a way of life, has anyone heard of an exhaust going this soon? Mileage is only 40k. Thanks
I have the same exact problem with my 90 Honda Accord, I didnt think about it till I saw your post "Can't remove key from ignition when Cold" and the related problem that the car occasionly gets stuck in park during cold weather. So I took it to my Honda guy, the cable is the correct remedy to the "getting stuck in park" he's dead sure on that one (he has mine on order). The stuck key is a bit trickier and he's not 100% sure on that, but he put Lockease (graphite oil) in it and I havent had the problem since then.
Your exhaust is blown at 40,000, after only 4-5 years? I know the usual bumper to bumper Honda warranty is 3-36, but is there something else that would extend to the exhaust system? I am very surprised your exhaust was blown so soon.
In jersy the cables do go bad and cause the car to be hard to get out of gear. However if at the same time the key gets stuck in the ignition then it is a shift position switch in most cases. The ignition switch and the shift lock mechanism need a park signal and the switch wears and doesnt give one causing the car to not release out of park and or the key out of the ignition. If it is a cable problem it will be hard to get into park as well as out of park..good luck
I thought of that, the thing is I can get it out of Park, but I have to use some muscle to get it out as if it was stuck in molasses, and the key doesnt happen at the same time so it seems to be 2 seperate problems.
Without being there to hear your car it is tough,however I do believe that the noise is normal now that you have told me that you heard it after you excersised the ABS brakes.The only thing you may want to have checked is that your system isnt leaking from the modulator.If it is or if there is another leak in the system then this could cause problems.Good luck..
I just bought a new Accord SE in Toronto, and I am wondering about the break-in period. The owner's manual says 1000Km before hard throttle, but my dealer says 1500km. When is it safe to use the VTEC? I also hear the little buzz when i start my car, but it happens on every single Accord (to me it sounds kinda cool). I was told also that the Honda engines enjoy high rpm's, and I am somewhat of an aggresive driver but I don't want to over work the car, should i be working the VTEC four banger to 4500 rpm's on average or not? Oh yeah...HONDA's are absolutely the best cars (to me) on the road. All my friend's own Hondas (prelude, civic, integra, 3.2 tl) and they all claim fun, integrity, sportiness and bullet-proof reliability + low maintainence costs.
Thanks guys for your advice! It was great to here reliable, knowledgeable advice from an unbiased third party!! Reddogs, It was great to hear that I wasn't the only one out there with this quirky ignition and park problem! I should tell you though that for my car the shifter cable was NOT the answer, because it still gets stuck in park so.....you may want to have them change your shift position switch and see if that corrects both problems, before you blow $300 bucks on a new shifter cable that may or may not fix the problem (my Honda place was also sure that a new shifter cable would fix everything!!) Auburn63, I called Honda and tried to get a quote on replacing the "shift position switch" and the mechanic was unfamiliar with that part. He transferred me over to Parts and they had trouble finding it. He claimed that it was listed in his computer as the "automatic switch assembly for transaxel gear position". Is that the same thing as the "shift position switch" you referred to? Also he said the part was only $43.57. How much do you estimate the labor being (ie. is this part hidden somewhere where it would take a lot of work to access or is it easily/quickly assessible?)?? Once again, thanks for any advice you can give!! Bmofo
I also noticed the stalling in my accord. It happened on a very warm day in March and would not start after a short trip to the store. The only way I could drive was to keep the revs up and then shift into drive. Not very reassuring for a Honda. Now that were into April the problem has disappeared. It must be the fuel boiling problem. I haven't noticed any transmission problems yet. My car was bought in January from a Cincinnati dealer.
Well that is an awfully long part name but hey ...maybe. Just let them know that it is the switch that mounts onto the side of the shifter,that sends the gear position signal.It is sometime called an inhibitor switch also but in any case it tells the dash and computer what gear you have selected..P.R.N.D4.ect...The price sounds about right and it is not very hard to do. The center console has to come off and then 2-10mm nuts have to come off and then unclip to connectors and reassemble..It is even easier if all you have is the gear shift cover.I will try and post the part number for you Friday night..
I checked today and that is what they call it in the parts catalog. Switch assy.,automatic transaxle gear position. I didnt get the part number but it is about 44.00 so I think they got the right part. Another sign that the part is bad will be, while in park and cant get the key out the "P" for park, on you dash will not be lit in most cases but not always.Try it I have good luck with it in the past for your symptoms.
zglui: It is normal for the Accord ABS system to make the noise upon first moving the car. I have a 99 and it does the exact same thing. My 1998 Civic w/ ABS also made the same noise. At first I thought it was a problem with my Civic but I took it to the dealer and he said that it was the ABS system "spooling" up. So I would not worry about it.
This is the update of the tranny problems I've posted before.
My dealership talked to the Honda Tech line, and they're going to replace what they told me "solenoid". My question is: if I've been drving my car like this for 5000 miles, could this have done some damage to other transmission units? Should I just let them replace the solenoid? Or should I demand an entire new transmission? (BTW, I actually feel like demanding a replacement vehicle, but something tells me it won't be possible. Anyway)
This is the brief summary of the tranny problems: I have 2000 accord EX-V6 (~5000 miles). I had to replace the torque converter (at ~1000 miles) because of the shuddering and vibration problem. After the replacement, the car seems to shudder less although I still notice vibration at low RPM when cruising. I've been having another problem since day 1. That is, there is a clunk in D4 and D3 which is most noticeable on a hill or while entering highway. I also experienced a very loud exploding clunk at highway speed.
This is the second time they're trying to fix tranny problem I've been having. Finally, I was able to duplicate this clunk to the mechanic. He seemed pretty concerned when he felt the clunk during the road test
Can anyone advise whether I should demand a new tranny? Thanks.
--terminalis
BTW, I asked Honda for a no-cost extended warranty in written. It was denied. They wrote "your accord is still very new, and we do not feel it to be appropriate or necessary to issue a no-cost extended warranty for your vehicle, which has an excellent factory warranty of 5 years....". Yeah damn right, it's still very new, and has drive-train problems. They also wrote "we are sorry to learn of your dissatisfaction with the shift quality of your Accord's transmission". Shift quality? What kind of transmission emanates loud exploding clunk at highway speed? I explained to Honda the problems, and they think it's just a little hard shift characteristic of Honda. They just refuse to listen.
Well I hope that the solenoid works however it probably will not. The problems you have spoke about point to an internal trans problem that may have started with a cpc(clutch pressure circuit) solenoid but by now will most likely need a trans.One step further your dealership should have taken a solenoid out of another new car to fix yours and prove it was the solenoid instead of possibly wasting your time by ordering it.As far as a new car and or a new trans..At this point that is almost not going to happen you will be given if needed a Honda factory reman trans. Trust me that is all you will need, they have never messed me up with a faulty reman.Those guys are good that do those.Plus in my opinion a new trans is probably more likely to have the same problem as the new one in your car. Well thats my 2 cents anyway so good luck...
Thanks for your info. It's been great to have you here providing unbiased info about the tranny problems I've been having. I really appreciate it.
Just to clarify a few things you said: You mentioned that the problem may have originated from solenoid, but replacing it won't probably work. Is that because other parts of the tranny have already suffered enough damage that just replacing solenoid won't be good enough? Or you think it's unlikely to be the solenoid causing the problem? Honda claims that their Techs have throughly reviewed my situation in conjunction with my dealership's senior service technician, and came up with this solenoid idea.
However, I have the impression that they think that I'm complaining about erratic annoying shifting charateristics. I told them it's a loud exploding clunk. I think they just want to believe what they want to believe. BTW, what's solenoid? They told me it's something wich allows gear to shift.
Been through this testing mode before. Tech line has some good people working there and have the advantage of hearing tech's problems across the country. They take this knowledge and help us fix problem cars that we havent seen and they have, due to being nation wide.Last time I spoke with them on a noisy V6 trans, they said first try a known good CPC solenoid. Then if that doesnt help try a PCM (computer).Then if that doesnt work install reman trans. This is the proper order and a must because tech line has seen a few be cured with step 1 or 2. However they will tell you that you most likely will find a bad trans.Since this is the proper diagnosis tree to follow then your dealer should be trading parts out of a new car(if they have one).Makes it less of a wait for you and less trips back. But I am sure they want your car fixed as much as you do so maybe they are doing all they can. We have a great Honda rep and he gives us some freedom that others dealers may not have. As far as what is a solenoid? Well they are electicaly controlled valves that control presure to the trans. They can be used and are used to control shift points and lock up control for the torque converter.CPC solenoids are for the clutch presure control. They can be a source of problem and are easily changed so they want to try these before putting in a trans. Good luck I'm sure you will be fixed soon..see ya
Thanks for your help on the key getting stuck/cable problem. I fiddled with it and found out that when the key gets stuck in the ignition the shifter was NOT in all the way to the PARK position. It was jamming just slightly out of park, it was so slight I wasn't noticing it. The cable replacement should take care of that so hopefully I wont have to wrestle with that problem.
Well, now, I guess I'll see if that solenoid trick will work. You have a good point. It's been a week since they ordered solenoid for me. I haven't heard anything from them yet. They told me that when they receive the part, they would call me to schedule an appointment. Yeah, they should've tested using solenoid from a new car, rather than making me wait. Anyway. Thanks auburn63, and I'll let you and this forum know the outcome of it.
After reading about tranny problems, etc., I am beginning to have second thoughts about purchasing a 2000 Accord LX 4cyl. with auto. Are the tranny problems just with sixes or all of them? I'm buying my first new car in quite awhile and was considering Honda because of its reputation for reliability. Is their quality slipping? This is a big leap for me and I don't want to make a mistake.
If I remember correctly, I've seen posts about tranny problems for both 4 and 6 cylinders. However, I think that notorious "clunk" was mainly for V6 (BTW, odysseys are having the same tranny problems), and 4 cylinders have different kinds of tranny problems (I could be wrong).
Another thing that's relevant is that tranny problems were thought to be limited to Nov. and Oct. 1999 production. However, mine is made on Dec. I also remember other people with production date later than that (Jan, Feb 2000) reporting the same problem.
Whether you should buy accord is really up to you. But let me tell you something. If my accord didn't have to go through all the tranny problems, this car is great. It looks excellent (personal) and interior design is near perfect. But, you'll see some cost cuts, like poor insulation, lousy stereo. It's still of great value. But, if you saw my posts, mine was delivered defective, and it's a major piss off.
One word of caution. I bought the car on Jan, and was aware of the tranny problems reported here. I said to myself "come on, they're just complaining, any maker makes a lemon. they're probably exaggerating. besides it's only a small number of accord that are having problems. it wouldn't be mine". I had a bad luck, and now I'm stuck with this problematic accord. I never thought mine will be one of them. And let me tell you, (I have a forward clunk, something's wrong with the clutch pressure), when it happens it's really freaky, especially on highway.
Also, if you happen to get defective tranny, Honda wouldn't replace it with a new one. They'll give you a remanufactured tranny, if all other attempts fail (like replacing converter, solenoid, etc). Meanwhile your new car will probably undergo major surgery, only to get a used tranny installed. What a piss.
The crucial point here is how often really accords are having tranny problem. No one really knows. If, for sure it's limited to very small amount of accords, then you should risk. After all, you may get other problems if you get, say, toyota. If it's common, don't buy accord.
My advise is that drive your car thouroughly before taking delivery (you know, like 2 hours? if possible). And if the car doesn't suffer such a problem, accords are worth the money. As far as its quality lately, yes, I personally think that quality is slipping lately because Honda made it more affordable (good and bad).
Although any car is subject to trans problems, so far we are seeing mostly 6 cylynders.I havent had to do a 4 yet but thats not to say that they dont have any problems.
As far as new vs reman as I have said before the remans are great units and probably your best bet being that the transmissions that are going bad are new. With that, my thinking is that the remans will come back fixed while the new havent broke yet.If that makes any sense.These units are completely gone over so they are far from being a used unit, they leave nothing with wear on it in them.I have been installing them for a very long time and aprox 95% of them never comeback.
Terminalis, your welcome and I wish you good luck.Not to worry about the long post we can choose not to read them if we dont like them. ............see ya..........Auburn
Guys, Ur killin me with this, bought my brand new accord (2000, EX V6, 200 hp, fully loaded)
This is the absolute dream car for my wife.
It is her car. I bought my new honda in 1988 (civic DX 4dr 16 vlv)...very happy with it until it turned into my "poltergiest" car 18 months ago with unintended acceleration, transmission slams, the whole nine yards...
Please don't tell me this is inherrent in the newest Honda's....I went VTEC, fully loaded.
However, only has 125 miles and I can't beat on it or would I until the break in period. I am looking for a sked maint.on my civic DX in June for the prob with unintended accelleration and until now, no one can give me an answer. My 4 cl CIVIC is a great little car for 12 yrs and I am concerned that this may be inherent in the make of Honda.
My new 2000 is a dream, very nice and seems worry free. Very good value for the money.
I got her for 23,200 with factory options of clear coat (569), floor mats (94) and alarm system (above and beyond the keyless entry system).
Let me know if I can expect a problem with my new 2000 Accord EX V6 and suggestions for my 1988 Civic DX unintended acceleration and idle problems. E:mail: bishopk99@yahoo.com thanks, KEv
I have been viewing the Accord forums for over 7 mos. and have seen few reports of tranny failure w/ the I4. Mine is 7 mos old /7k miles and totally problem free.
Help - Hear the "clunking" sound when placed in reverse and the dealer tells me this is "normal". HELLO HONDA - this is not NORMAL to be scared to death each time the car is placed in reverse!!!! Any advice out there. Thank you - EBK.
There is some allowable/normal engagement noises that Honda transmissions sometimes make. However if it continues to make noise in reverse while moving and or it is real loud, then my suggestion would be to see the dealer representative. Have him/her listen to the noise with you. Try to be there in person because it is much harder to say something is normal that isn't when your with the customer.If you have never owned a Honda before then you may not be used to the way they are but if you have then maybe you do have a problem. Lord knows they are having some problems with them mostly the 6 cylynder models.Good luck...
Got 97K on my 97 I4 accord and it clunks every time I put it into reverse-just the slop in the short shafts/cv joints. Had the same clunk on a manual accord. Not to worry.
Some advice-change your honda tranny ATF every 30K and use only honda ATF. I drive only highway and my ATF got dark at 70K and I got a check tranny code. Also beware of those tranny flush systems-they use a "Solvent" and betcha they do not get all of that solvent out of the tranny-then what happens to your tranny.
This problem has riddled me for the past two weeks, but perhaps I may be worrying too much. My 2000 Accord SE has only 995 miles on it, but it has only been giving me about 21mpg, or 0.11 litres per kilometer (11L/100km)in light traffic driving (uptown Toronto). This gives my car a range of only 270 miles in city. What mechanical problems can contribute to poor gas mileage? My engine runs smoothly and so does my tranny and everything else. My tires are also inflated to 30 psi. What can be the problem? Does the engine consume more fuel when breaking in? The weather has also been fluctuating here in Toronto, it is warm one day and cold the other. I also use my car for short distances during the week to school and longer distances on weekends to go out. According to almost all stats, the Accord VTEC 4's are supposed to give 23-24 mpg for city. I am a modest driver at most times, but I do send the rpms up usually once a trip. A friend of mine told me that he smelled "rotten eggs" when he stood behind my car, but no-one else nor I have detected it. Please someone help me...I am puzzled.
I have a 2000 Accord EX-V6, with about 9000 miles so far. Ever since I bought the car, it has been ridden with all sorts of rattles - from the dash, gauge cluster, driver's door/window and most annoyingly from the sunroof. The sunroof rattles have been driving me nuts. I have had it checked out at 3 different dealerships - 5 times in all. They have been able to fix a couple of rattles, but not the ones coming from the sunroof.
My last service report said that the technician removed the headliner and installed some tape around the sunroof to eliminate the rattles, But that apparently has not helped. The rattles, if anything, are worse than ever before. I called American Honda, and was told to take the car back again to the dealership when the district manager is visiting.
I don't have much confidence in this problem getting fixed anymore. Do I have to live with this annoying problem, or is there something I can do? I don't suppose that a rattle, howvever annoying it may be, qualifies a car as a lemon?
Fuel mileage problems are tough because they usally are related to the customers driving habbits. How ever that winter fuel they use in most parts of the country does nothing for fuel economy either. My mileage always goes down in the winter around here. Give it some more time and see what happens when the summer rolls around. Hopefully in your area they dont use it all year round......
Comments
1.find the cable that goes from the throttle body down to the front of the trans.
2.loosen the 12mm nuts and then turn the top one up about 2 turns then retighten the bottom one.
The end result should be just a small amount of slack at the throttle body so as to when the gas pedal is depressed and starts to move the trans cable follows almost right away.
To tight and the shift is late...too loose and the shift is early, so find the right place and your set.Good luck I hope I didnt confuse you,it is easier done than explained.
Before bought my car to delaer:
The car need to apply gas pedal so hard to maintain 70m/h using D4, and when release the gas padel, the car slow down very very fast
After the fix:
The car does not need to apply gas pedal to keep 70m/h,
also , the RPM drop from 2750 to 2250 @70m/h
when apply little gas again, the RPM go up to 2750 when apply more gas in D4,
I also shift down from D4 to D3 to see what gear the car is selecting , when shift to D3 @70m/h, the rpm go up to 4000
SO I guess the dealer did someting secretly or the car that I brough already has some problem in the tranmission.
anyway, you can do it yourself to see if you car has the same problem.
First to check the oil leaking from tranmission,( by the way, the transmission leaking MAY cause by the gear never engage to Final Drive.
speed up to 75, then let the car slow down to 70m/h and now check the rpm ( my car has 2250rpm)
then speed up again using very very little gas, the rpm should constanly increase
if apply more gas , the rpm should go up 500 RPM ( D4 engaged)
if shift from D4 to D3 mamually, the rpm should read ~4000 rpm
DOes anyone out there has the same problem
Another probably related problem is that the car occasionly gets stuck in park during cold weather. I am unable to push the button in on the automatic shifter lever, therefore I can't get it out of park after I turn the car on.
The problem with the key in the ignition happens anytime it gets very cold and the getting stuck in park happens less frequently. I took it to Honda and they replaced the shifter cable for a nice $300 and that did nothing. Of course I was stupid and took the car to them during a warmer spell in the winter so they felt the problem was fixed. However, once cold weather hit again the same problems came up. Has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone have any ideas/hints? I'd appreciate any advice you have. Thanks.
2nd choice would be the key itself or the ignition switch but that has nothing to do with getting stuck in gear.
One last thought is that speed related pulls are sometimes the tires and or tire presure.Make sure all presures are dead even, as 1-2lbs can make a differance sometimes.
If the alignment is good and presures are good and it still does the same, rotate the tires and see what that does for you...Good luck..
Honda has alot of recomended fluids out of which the manual trans fluid,coolant and Power stearing are the most important to use Honda. Automatic transmissions work best with Honda fluid but will work with normal ATF.As for the oil,brake fluid,washer fluid almost all of them are fine.
I know this is more info than you ask for but I got on a roll:)...See ya
I tried breaking on ice after posting my message. I heard CONTINUOUS and LOUD buzzing sound. The break pedal pushed back as I expected.
However, I also felt slow pulsations from the
pedal as if the braking disk was grinding through
an uneven surface. I learned that ABS should
pump the break about ten times per second. So, I
don't understand why there was the slow pulsations. Did anybody else have the same experience?
Now I'm sure the buzzing sound is coming from the ABS. I feel somewhat relieved after terminalis also reported the same sound (post 229). However, I still don't understand why it needs to happen every time I start my car and go.
Should I call Honda customer service or go to another dealer? I was already told by one dealer that it is completely normal.
I'm not convinced.
I could also feel slow pulsation from the pedal. It seems a lot slower than 10Hz.
I would try another Honda dealer or an independent garage. I think Honda customer service has this police that if a Honda mechanic at dealership thinks it's normal, they don't pursue this anymore. So, unless a mechanic at a Honda dealership feels that it's not normal, calling Honda wouldn't be useful. However, if a Honda mechanic doesn't exactly know whether it's noraml or not, then you could probably call Honda. They're probably contact Honda Tech Line and the service manager of the dealership.
I used to be concerned about this buzz sound when I first drove my car, and I wondered. But, now, with some major transmission problems in my car that I have to go through, I don't even want to bother with it. I don't have much energy left after hassling with service guys and Honda.
This is my first Honda, but I've driven older generation Accord. I think the older gen was actually better. This is also the first time I having trouble with a new car, which happens to be "one of the most reliable make" (I don't think it's true anymore. Maybe in 80's and early 90's, Honda was the most reliable).
What's happening to Honda lately? Am I just having a bad luck? Or, maybe Honda wants to make accord more affordable, and had to cut on the quality control. Anyway.
--terminalis
occasionly gets stuck in park during cold weather.
So I took it to my Honda guy, the cable is the correct remedy to the "getting stuck in park" he's dead sure on that one (he has mine on order). The stuck key is a bit trickier and he's not 100% sure on that, but he put Lockease (graphite oil) in it and I havent had the problem since then.
Oh yeah...HONDA's are absolutely the best cars (to me) on the road. All my friend's own Hondas (prelude, civic, integra, 3.2 tl) and they all claim fun, integrity, sportiness and bullet-proof reliability + low maintainence costs.
Reddogs,
It was great to hear that I wasn't the only one out there with this quirky ignition and park problem! I should tell you though that for my car the shifter cable was NOT the answer, because it still gets stuck in park so.....you may want to have them change your shift position switch and see if that corrects both problems, before you blow $300 bucks on a new shifter cable that may or may not fix the problem (my Honda place was also sure that a new shifter cable would fix everything!!)
Auburn63,
I called Honda and tried to get a quote on replacing the "shift position switch" and the mechanic was unfamiliar with that part. He transferred me over to Parts and they had trouble finding it. He claimed that it was listed in his computer as the "automatic switch assembly for transaxel gear position". Is that the same thing as the "shift position switch" you referred to? Also he said the part was only $43.57. How much do you estimate the labor being (ie. is this part hidden somewhere where it would take a lot of work to access or is it easily/quickly assessible?)??
Once again, thanks for any advice you can give!!
Bmofo
My dealership talked to the Honda Tech line, and they're going to replace what they told me "solenoid". My question is: if I've been drving my car like this for 5000 miles, could this have done some damage to other transmission units? Should I just let them replace the solenoid? Or should I demand an entire new transmission? (BTW, I actually feel like demanding a replacement vehicle, but something tells me it won't be possible. Anyway)
This is the brief summary of the tranny problems:
I have 2000 accord EX-V6 (~5000 miles). I had to replace the torque converter (at ~1000 miles) because of the shuddering and vibration problem. After the replacement, the car seems to shudder less although I still notice vibration at low RPM when cruising. I've been having another problem since day 1. That is, there is a clunk in D4 and D3 which is most noticeable on a hill or while entering highway. I also experienced a very loud exploding clunk at highway speed.
This is the second time they're trying to fix tranny problem I've been having. Finally, I was able to duplicate this clunk to the mechanic. He seemed pretty concerned when he felt the clunk during the road test
Can anyone advise whether I should demand a new tranny? Thanks.
--terminalis
BTW, I asked Honda for a no-cost extended warranty in written. It was denied. They wrote "your accord is still very new, and we do not feel it to be appropriate or necessary to issue a no-cost extended warranty for your vehicle, which has an excellent factory warranty of 5 years....". Yeah damn right, it's still very new, and has drive-train problems. They also wrote "we are sorry to learn of your dissatisfaction with the shift quality of your Accord's transmission". Shift quality? What kind of transmission emanates loud exploding clunk at highway speed? I explained to Honda the problems, and they think it's just a little hard shift characteristic of Honda. They just refuse to listen.
Thanks for your info. It's been great to have you here providing unbiased info about the tranny problems I've been having. I really appreciate it.
Just to clarify a few things you said:
You mentioned that the problem may have originated from solenoid, but replacing it won't probably work. Is that because other parts of the tranny have already suffered enough damage that just replacing solenoid won't be good enough? Or you think it's unlikely to be the solenoid causing the problem? Honda claims that their Techs have throughly reviewed my situation in conjunction with my dealership's senior service technician, and came up with this solenoid idea.
However, I have the impression that they think that I'm complaining about erratic annoying shifting charateristics. I told them it's a loud exploding clunk. I think they just want to believe what they want to believe. BTW, what's solenoid? They told me it's something wich allows gear to shift.
Thanks again.
--terminalis
As far as what is a solenoid? Well they are electicaly controlled valves that control presure to the trans. They can be used and are used to control shift points and lock up control for the torque converter.CPC solenoids are for the clutch presure control. They can be a source of problem and are easily changed so they want to try these before putting in a trans.
Good luck I'm sure you will be fixed soon..see ya
Thanks for your help on the key getting stuck/cable problem. I fiddled with it and found out that when the key gets stuck in the ignition the shifter was NOT in all the way to the PARK position. It was jamming just slightly out of park, it was so slight I wasn't noticing it. The cable replacement should take care of that so hopefully I wont have to wrestle with that problem.
Well, now, I guess I'll see if that solenoid trick will work. You have a good point. It's been a week since they ordered solenoid for me. I haven't heard anything from them yet. They told me that when they receive the part, they would call me to schedule an appointment. Yeah, they should've tested using solenoid from a new car, rather than making me wait. Anyway. Thanks auburn63, and I'll let you and this forum know the outcome of it.
--terminalis
If I remember correctly, I've seen posts about tranny problems for both 4 and 6 cylinders. However, I think that notorious "clunk" was mainly for V6 (BTW, odysseys are having the same tranny problems), and 4 cylinders have different kinds of tranny problems (I could be wrong).
Another thing that's relevant is that tranny problems were thought to be limited to Nov. and Oct. 1999 production. However, mine is made on Dec. I also remember other people with production date later than that (Jan, Feb 2000) reporting the same problem.
Whether you should buy accord is really up to you. But let me tell you something. If my accord didn't have to go through all the tranny problems, this car is great. It looks excellent (personal) and interior design is near perfect. But, you'll see some cost cuts, like poor insulation, lousy stereo. It's still of great value. But, if you saw my posts, mine was delivered defective, and it's a major piss off.
One word of caution. I bought the car on Jan, and was aware of the tranny problems reported here. I said to myself "come on, they're just complaining, any maker makes a lemon. they're probably exaggerating. besides it's only a small number of accord that are having problems. it wouldn't be mine". I had a bad luck, and now I'm stuck with this problematic accord. I never thought mine will be one of them. And let me tell you, (I have a forward clunk, something's wrong with the clutch pressure), when it happens it's really freaky, especially on highway.
Also, if you happen to get defective tranny, Honda wouldn't replace it with a new one. They'll give you a remanufactured tranny, if all other attempts fail (like replacing converter, solenoid, etc). Meanwhile your new car will probably undergo major surgery, only to get a used tranny installed. What a piss.
The crucial point here is how often really accords are having tranny problem. No one really knows. If, for sure it's limited to very small amount of accords, then you should risk. After all, you may get other problems if you get, say, toyota. If it's common, don't buy accord.
My advise is that drive your car thouroughly before taking delivery (you know, like 2 hours? if possible). And if the car doesn't suffer such a problem, accords are worth the money. As far as its quality lately, yes, I personally think that quality is slipping lately because Honda made it more affordable (good and bad).
Good luck!
--terminalis
Later.
--Terminalis
As far as new vs reman as I have said before the remans are great units and probably your best bet being that the transmissions that are going bad are new. With that, my thinking is that the remans will come back fixed while the new havent broke yet.If that makes any sense.These units are completely gone over so they are far from being a used unit, they leave nothing with wear on it in them.I have been installing them for a very long time and aprox 95% of them never comeback.
Terminalis, your welcome and I wish you good luck.Not to worry about the long post we can choose not to read them if we dont like them.
............see ya..........Auburn
Ur killin me with this, bought my brand new
accord (2000, EX V6, 200 hp, fully loaded)
This is the absolute dream car for my wife.
It is her car. I bought my new honda in
1988 (civic DX 4dr 16 vlv)...very happy with
it until it turned into my "poltergiest" car
18 months ago with unintended acceleration,
transmission slams, the whole nine yards...
Please don't tell me this is inherrent in the
newest Honda's....I went VTEC, fully loaded.
However, only has 125 miles and I can't beat
on it or would I until the break in period.
I am looking for a sked maint.on my civic DX
in June for the prob with unintended accelleration and until now, no one can give me
an answer. My 4 cl CIVIC is a great little
car for 12 yrs and I am concerned that this
may be inherent in the make of Honda.
My new 2000 is a dream, very nice and seems
worry free. Very good value for the money.
I got her for 23,200 with factory options
of clear coat (569), floor mats (94) and
alarm system (above and beyond the keyless
entry system).
Let me know if I can expect a problem with
my new 2000 Accord EX V6 and suggestions
for my 1988 Civic DX unintended acceleration
and idle problems. E:mail: bishopk99@yahoo.com
thanks,
KEv
Some advice-change your honda tranny ATF every 30K and use only honda ATF. I drive only highway and my ATF got dark at 70K and I got a check tranny code. Also beware of those tranny flush systems-they use a "Solvent" and betcha they do not get all of that solvent out of the tranny-then what happens to your tranny.
1. Oil
2. Coolant
3. Automatic Transmission
I know what the manual says, but am interested in your opinion.
gauge cluster, driver's door/window and most annoyingly from the sunroof. The sunroof rattles
have been driving me nuts. I have had it checked out at 3 different dealerships - 5 times in all.
They have been able to fix a couple of rattles, but not the ones coming from the sunroof.
My last service report said that the technician removed the headliner and installed some tape around the sunroof to eliminate the rattles, But that apparently has not helped. The rattles, if anything, are worse than ever before. I called American Honda, and was told to take the car back again to the dealership when the district manager is visiting.
I don't have much confidence in this problem getting fixed anymore. Do I have to live with this annoying problem, or is there something I can do?
I don't suppose that a rattle, howvever annoying it may be, qualifies a car as a lemon?
Thanks for listening.