I bought the 2001 Civic Ex in June of 2001. Recently I have had problems with a sensor in my fuel tank. The gage in the dash says my civic is at a half a tank with 255 miles driven since I filled up. I know that my civic only goes about 300 miles per tank of gas, so I know the gage is wrong!!!!! I have had the bad sensor replaced once by the dealership and I am having the same problem again. Has anyone else had this kind of problem?
my 2002 civic LX also has a crazy gas gauge. it stays near full for the first 100 miles I drive, DROPS to 3/4 full by ~110 miles. On occasion, it may even rise slightly.
another 60 miles or so of hovering near 1/2 full, then another sharp drop.
Haha, do you mean, too much time measuring mpg, or too much time writing measuring mpg posts? I didn't say I actually DID all those things, but if I was really concerned about my gas mileage (like, if I were getting 25 mpg), I would definitely want to figure out why... Part of the fun of driving the Civic is seeing how many mpg I can wring out of it... sure isn't for its powerful engine.
My wife drives an 02 civic lx 5 speed we bought in Feb 02, she drives it almost entirely in town, short trips under 5 miles,she does drive easy but since new the car has averaged 32 MPG, the car has 5000 miles on it. In April we drove it from Colorado Springs to California and back it averaged 42 MPG under severe conditions, a lot of headwind.I guess civics do vary some in there mileage but overall we are pleased, no problems to report other than the steering wheel has lost its new look,i.e.it now looks very dull and worn, has anyone else had this problem, is what was the fix, armor all doesn't even make it shine.
I own a honda civic 2000 lx, I just noticed that the maintenance required light has changed from green to orange. I am not due for another oil change until 37500 or another month, and I am currently at 36111. My first thought was that maybe since the car's warranty expired at 36000 the light goes on as a reminder of some sort? I also noticed some sort of noise in my heater vents when I turned them on, but that noise promptly left after a day. So I was just curious if you had any ideas on what could be causing the orange light? - thanks
I own a honda civic 2000 lx, I just noticed that the maintenance required light has changed from green to orange. I am not due for another oil change until 37500 or another month, and I am currently at 36111. My first thought was that maybe since the car's warranty expired at 36000 the light goes on as a reminder of some sort? I also noticed some sort of noise in my heater vents when I turned them on, but that noise promptly left after a day. So I was just curious if you had any ideas on what could be causing the orange light? - thanks
My 2001 Civic EX, 4-door, which I purchased new, makes squeaking & crunching noises in the rear suspension area. The noise comes and goes. My dealer told me that they lubricated the bushings to correct the problem, but it only lasted for a few days. Another mechanic told me that it's just a problem that this particular model has, and the bushings shouldn't be lubricated anyhow - even if he could get to the area that needs it. Has anyone else had this problem?
I have been reading the posts on this board and connected ones. I sometimes wonder if we all own the same "new" car? I think perhaps owners expect too much out of their cars or have unrealistic expectations. I know enough about Honda to know that they don't produce a lemon every other car. The newest generation Civic is light years beyond all previous Civics, it is a well designed, efficient, dependable automobile. We have driven ours 42 thousand miles since its purchase, new in June 2001. (4 thousand miles just last week) It has never failed to be everything I expected and more. The car IS comfortable for 13 hours at a time, (only stopping once or twice for gas) we did so four times this last week. (I am 6' 1", 167 pounds). The engine IS so quite you can rarely hear it. It is so smooth you can't tell it is running at stoplights. It does NOT have numerous rattles, hot or cold. (ONE only, very minimal, in the driver tweeter area since new, not worth looking for). It is not a lemon but rather the extreme reverse: never has been any more than the most reliable machine I have ever owned. Never failed to start, broke down, malfunctioned, or failed to operate like new in all those miles. As for mileage: I have kept track of every single tank since it was new. It is not "weird" or "hard to do", I write down the miles, gallons and mileage in a log at each fill-up, it takes less than a minute. I fill it until the first click off and put in no more. I have the original Firestone tires, they have given great service, should last 50 to 60 thousand miles, I keep them at 35 psi at all times. Here are the mileage figures of what people should be getting in this car if driven properly. Some are with A/C, or on mountain grades etc.
These figures are from the first page of the log. Off the Honda lot, summer of 2001, mostly extreme heat 110 degrees, Phoenix AZ:
28.78 30.98 28.38 28.85 55.50 27.8 39.52 36.61 35.36 36.78 35.50 33.51 36.80 34.74 38.12 34.51 33.51 43.63 41.37 37.57 40.95 39.15 42.21 (it is easy to tell the city from the highway figures)
The following are the last page and half of my log, combination of driving, no city (only)
One should expect about 39 to 42 on the freeways, and about 36 to 38 in the city with the 5 speed. As well as great service from this car!
*BY THE WAY: We drive it 78 mph on the freeways for 500 miles straight with no stops and it still gets over 40 mpg, so people that say 70 to 80 mph ruins your mileage are wacked.
Am looking into getting a new 'EX 4 cyl. Civic soon. Have checked out all kinds of cars on different safety/auto.problems sites and these (for my price range) seem to have the least horrific problems, etc. I keep coming back to Civic.
Acuras too pricey (& high repair costs), Accord could only get bottom line model (& test drove 2 with vibration in steering wheel at idle- Civic I test drove had no vibration at all).
Anyways- to all of your Civic owners if you were buying a new car today would you get a Civic again? (Why or why not?)
Also side air bags (do you think they are worth it?) We have two huskies that we carry in our car at times and I have heard you should not rest your arms on door arm pads if you have side air bags. I'm afraid they may lean on them at times. Anyone else heard this?
Has anyone noticed any significant surface rust on their 2002 Civics? We took delivery in August 2002 and a few weeks later I noticed several spots of rust on the surface of the trunk (inside, on the top). Some of these spots are one to two inches in diameter. My wife is bringing the car in for the first oil change tomorrow and I told her to bring this to their attention. Has anyone else noticed this? I mentioned this to the service rep when I brought my 01 Accord V6 in for service last month and he said it shouldn't be a problem since the surface rust is covered for 3/36.
I'm about to change from my 1993 Civic DX to a new car. Normally I would get another Civic because this one has been so reliable and so overall economical. But the mediocre air conditioning in my 1993 Civic means I won't take a gamble and buy a 2003 Civic that may also have mediocre air conditioning.
I own a honda civic 2000 lx, I just noticed that the maintenance required light has changed from green to orange. I am not due for another oil change until 37500 or another month, and I am currently at 36111. My first thought was that maybe since the car's warranty expired at 36000 the light goes on as a reminder of some sort? I also noticed some sort of noise in my heater vents when I turned them on, but that noise promptly left after a day. So I was just curious if you had any ideas on what could be causing the orange light? - thanks
I forgot to mention that I took the car to the dealer for the oil change and asked them to check my brakes - my car mileage wasn't 36000 but close enough. Should I take the car back to the dealer because of the light or ignore the light? Thanks
At least give the new Civic AC a shot communi .. I have a 02 SI and the AC is more consistent in it than in previous Honda's I've owned. The previous Civic's AC was weak if you were at a stop or moving slowly but the longer you drove or the faster you drove the cooler the AC was. One thing that the imports can't match the domestic brands in is AC/Heating but the AC in my Civic is more than adequate even on 100 degree days.
Glad to hear the a/c is better. I really depend on a/c in the summer due to allergies, etc.
Anyways am going in to look at some new Civics later this week and hopefully buy one. Just not sure if I should try and get one w/ the vin# starting with "J" which is suppose to mean assembled in Japan. Have heard different things about this subject.
Anyone w/ a black Civic? How has the paint job held up?
I had a black Accord and the paint was fine. Of course, as with any black car, you will want to avoid using the brushes at car washes, keep it waxed, etc but it should be fine.
My 01 EX has the midnight black paint on it. As a whole the paint is fine, really a very nice color, especially in the sunshine. As others have mentioned here before, the paint in general seems to be thin. I'm a little over 65K miles 98% Interstate and through some construction zones. That has led to some pretty severe sand blasting on the front of the car. This hasn't caused problems, the windshield is more pitted than the paint, but particles of larger size have left a lot of pits where the black is now white. Appears to be the primer or whatever the metal was treated with. I'm not certain if this is consistent from car to car regardless of color, but if so white might be a better choice for the long term. Any case, the pitted areas are usually white from wax residue after waxing. It doesn't take much to ding these cars, I have one rock hit which I would expect, but also had an empty Coke can fly out of the back of a pick-up in front of me resulting in a hood dent and missing paint. All this being said, I still enjoy the black paint and am not disappointed in the pits and dings based on the mileage and conditions that I drive in.
black and white cars are the best looking IMO but are hard to keep clean, don't see many black ones in my neck of the woods. A/C works fine. Rob (silver '00) Houston
just filled the tank again today. this time, i'm getting 27mpg.
I've been driving like a granny the past week: no crazy 5000 rpm accels off the red light, 70mph consistently, with a 60:40 hwy:city ratio, and a relatively empty car interior (not lugging around excess crap). i drive automagic, but that shouldn't impact the gas mileage THAT much...
forgot to mention - i am definitely suspecting a very slow air leak in my right front tire. i filled up each tire to 32psi about 2-3 weeks ago, and three of the tires still register ~30psi. the right front tire is getting 22psi.
where can i usally get this fixed? and should I ask for a patch vs a plug?
And you may have found your mileage culprit. Any reputable tire outlet will fix your tire. In my area a Goodyear outlet name Kauffman will even do it for free.
Let me second Gee35coupe, get the patch not the plug. I thought that plugs are now illegal but I may be wrong. It can be a quick fix if you have one of the do-it-yourself kits and can offer some mobility until you can get the tire serviced. At the same time, you might ruin the tire by plugging it. A hole in the tread area has the potential to damage the steel in the belts of the tire. One wire cut usually isn't a big deal, but multiple wires can create a problem. Depending on what punctured the tire, the tire might be considered unserviceable. A reputable vendor should make this decision for you. It is not that the tire can't be fixed to hold air again, it is the longer term effect that the broken wires in the steel belt cause. Remember the two different Firestone debacles, the Firestone 500 and their latest one on the Explorer? One appeared to be related to contamination in the build process the other related to heat build up in an overloaded underinflated tire. In both cases the bond between the steel belts and the rest of the tire failed. A puncture in the steel belt area of the tire can have the same effect over the long term. It allows water and other contaminants to enter the tread area eventually causing the tire to delaminate. This is why plugging is not such a good idea. The plug is usually fabric reinforced and the fabric tends to wick water into the tire. Patching the tire from the interior eliminates the wick. Also remember to have the tire balanced after the patch.
If you've got a tire that was running that low it will definitely affect your mileage. Tires low on pressure can make a significant increase to the rolling friction and put a serious dent in your gas mileage. Also, the mileage figures that are reported for cars are average mileage values. You could just have a car that gets less than average mileage for whatever reason. I've got an '02 Civic LX w/ 5 speed. Looks like I drive about the same city/hwy ratio that you do and I get about 33 to 35 MPG. If I make a long highway trip on that tank of gas I can easily exceed 41 or 42 MPG with some city driving mixed in.
The NTB near me has always treated me well. They'll tell you whether the tire is patchable, and if not, they have a decent selection of tires and will most closely match what you already have, if not exactly. Civic tires are pretty cheap compared to what you could be buying.
Karl: Sorry to hear of the mileage delema you are faced with. I can't speak for the automatic, as I own the 5 speed. In spite of that, I feel that the figures you convey are a little low. Options: I assume your car is still under warranty, you could take it to the dealer, or a dealer that you trust and ask them about the low mileage. Perhaps there is an adjustment that can be fine tuned. Otherwise, I would check a couple other things. I have found that after 40 thousand miles of driving that 31psi is too low for the Firestone tires, (if that is what you have?). The maximum is 44psi on these tires, and I keep mine at 35psi. The door jam says 30psi. There is massive confusion on what to put in these tires. Supposedly it is up to Honda in the end, to state the required air pressures: (via door jam sticker). However, every Honda dealer and tire dealer will give you a different story from Tucson to Palm Springs to Oregon and Idaho. I have tried all the variants from 28 to 40. I can guarantee that 28 to 32 will kill your mileage. (I do believe in following the manufacture recommended door jam sticker, but NOT when it hurts my mileage) I had mine lowered by a well meaning tire expert one day, and my mileage dropped like a rock. I put them back to 35psi, and the mileage shot back up again. I am sure some out there will say, too high of air in a tire will cause uneven center wear and will be unsafe. (this is not the case with these tires) I have driven this car hard on corners and freeways at 80 mph thru hill and dale for 42 thousand miles now, the tires show normal wear and should last another 10 thousand or so. They still have good tread. You will notice from the mileage figures I posted that I have enjoyed excellent overall mileage in all that driving as well! I feel 35psi is a good pressure for the tire and car, not unsafe, as the tires are rated at 44psi, and it has not caused uneven tire wear. So try increasing your the tire pressure! Other factors could include: Unusually dirty air cleaner or air box restrictions, fuel, use 86 or 87 octane from reputable station chain. The TYPE of oil is paramount, I use Honda filter only, and Honda 5w/20w oil as required by Honda. It is purposely designed for the extremely minimal clearance of the internal specs of this engine design and WILL effect mileage and performance if altered. Make SURE the Honda 5w/20w, is being used. It is a new grade and not readily available everywhere. I have noticed that long warm ups in the morning also effect mileage greatly for this car and is not always necessary. (also excessive idling) Good luck, you may have to resolve this issue with the dealer if you can find one that will take an intelligent and thorough evaluation of your situation. Good Luck, these cars are made for mileage, no one should have to endure limited results in this area.
thanks for teh replies. hope today was a day of feast, not famine (my 1st time making a turkey today--and not 1/2 bad!
will try to check out NTB tomorrow (i assume there's one in the Boston area...)
redrockbunny: i believe i have dunlop tires. i'll try to up the psi to 35+ or so... last time i had an oil change, it was at the dealer. they had better be putting in Honda 5w/20w. however, will a big chain like jiffy lube have this grade? (I get the feeling the dealership keeps trying to hustle something new on me every time i set foot in the door.)
one final note: do I have to do anything special to "winterize" my car? (ie, a lighter grade of oil)?
i went to some local tire shop that was recommended by some friends--Liner Tire.
they said there's "nothing wrong" with my tire, and even if there were a leak, it's a slow one (taking ~2wk to lose 10psi, vs. 2days). and for that, $15 service fee.
so, redrockbunny, I'll just be extra-vigilant with my tire pressures. i'll keep them at 36psi constantly...
I bought a 2001 Civic EX new because I previously owned a 1981 Civic wagon which I loved. However, since Feb. 01, this car has been giving me more problems than any car I've ever owned before. Examples: Fixed driver's seat sliding mechanism twice. Replace CD/Radio (factory recall), attach loose clamps in front left roof pillar (noise), repair left speaker 3 times (original cracked, loose/defective mountings twice), and the most annoying - squeaking/crunching noises from the rear suspension. The first time I took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't hear the noises, checked the suspension, and told me everything is OK. The second time, they told me they lubricated the bushings. After 2 days, the noise returned and is worse than ever. I'm surprised and disappointed that I would be experiencing these types of problems with a car that I bought for its reputation of reliability. Has anyone else been able to solve the suspension noise problem?
I have a 2002 Honda Civic that doesn't start at times. Honda can't duplicate the problem so they won't try to replace anything. Does anyone have the same problem? Help!
Seems you are still being lead down the garden path.........LOL! I would go to a Dunlap tire dealer, and complain LOUDLY about that tire. It DOES have a leak. The tire shop you went to just didn't want to take the time to find it. Any tire that loses 10 psi every two weeks is leaking. It may be something as simple as replacing the stem or valve core, (they are notorious offenders in this regard) the tire it's self may be fine, but there is a leak. And it IS unacceptable. I would not have paid them the 15 bucks either, they didn't remedy the problem! My 2001 for instance: I set the tires at 35psi and they stay the same for months at a time. Gradually all tires will lose a few pounds caused by weather changes, elevation etc. But one by it's self, it's a leak. Hope you can resolve it. That may be the mileage problem. Even with you watching it, it still is probably low part of the time effecting your mileage. A good tire dealer can resolve the issue for you. Also check the "Maximum Pressure" reading on the side of the tire, don't exceed that figure. Also, I would be wary of Jiffy Lubes, ask them to show you the oil that they are putting in, indeed, many have never heard of 5-20w oil and don't stock it. Honda should Always use the proper oil, although some dealers don't use Honda brand. I really had to chew out a service manager in Oregon for putting in Penzoil 5-20 weight without telling me. I just assumed that Honda oil was ALWAYS used at a dealer. Now I ask for it each time. Good Luck I know that you can get that darn tire fixed by a reputable tire dealer, try Dunlap, they sell the tires, and have a vested interest in people continuing to buy them. Goodyear stores, usually as well, are real conscientious. Also if you can't resolve the tire issue, have it put on the back, it is unsafe to have a tire like that on the front. Once all this is behind you, if your mileage doesn't improve, march, don't walk, to the dealer you bought it from and insist, nicely and firmly, they resolve the mileage issue. P.S. as for any winterizing, Honda uses 50/50 antifreeze and sells it that way. It should give you plenty of protection for temperatures you drive in. Follow your owner's manual for any special guidelines, however, I don't think there is anything you need to worry about.
Not long ago (a couple months) took my '00 Civic to a local (Discount tire) place cause local Honda dealer said Discount tire does *all* Honda warranty (tire) repairers - anyway had a OEM tire loosing a few pounds a week, Discount tire checked it (the tire in a bath tub type of thing) motioned me out to show it was okay, I said wiggle the valve stem, it leaked big time they replaced the valve stem and and now all is well but its too bad I had to point them to the problem ... Rob in Houston
problems with tire shops. Too much presure, too little, varied over all corners, you name it. I recommend buying a guage and a inexpensive 12V compressor. That way you can monitor it yourself.
Test drove new Civic and saw sticker on window listing next oil change at about 3,500 miles (Valvoline, I think it said). Is this the correct Honda brand oil? Also when should 1st oil change be? Friend thought 1,000 miles since there may be some metal particles in oil since car is new?
The Honda owner's manual do not recommend chnging the first oil until 10,000 miles under normal driving conditions. They actually specifically say NOT to change the break in oil early. Read it for yourself.
For now the thing to try would be a gas additive called Techron. Currently the thought is that small amounts of fuel deposits and carbon are building up on the valves and holding them open. This couses little or no compression on first start ups and then that cylynder loads up with fuel and causes the hard start. The thing to try other than the techron would be, on first start, keep cranking until it starts. If you dont let of the cranking you can prevent the cylynder from loading up as much. Good luck
Make sure you read and understand what Honda means by "normal" conditions. Most people seem to fall under what Honda defines as "severe" conditions, which means your oil changes and other services happen more frequently.
In any case, the oil change interval for my fiance's 2002 Civic Coupe is 5000/1000 miles (severe/normal conditions). If the dealer is telling you that you should change it at 3,500 miles they're most likely just wanting to you to pay for more frequent oil changes.
And no, you shouldn't change the oil at 1,000 miles and in fact your Owner's Manual will tell you that. Amazing what they put in the Owner's Manual, eh? Things like how to take care of your car, when to change the oil, when to rotate the tires, how to change a flat tire, how all the buttons on the dash work...
My favorite dealer gives free oil and filter changes for as long as you own any car you buy from them. Another perk of living in Western New York.
According to the Honda manual. They specifically say that you are normal unless you REGULARLY drive under the severe condition. MOST people don't sit in traffic/ idle for long periods nor do they tow, or live in dusty climes. That's why they are called normal conditions since in normal driving the car goes over 10 miles, gets up to temp, doesn't idle for long periods, and is not used for towing.
I plan to change my oil at 7500 miles. Not because anyone told me to but it's just a nice happy medium. It gives me a cushion before 10,000 so if I go a little beyond my intended mileage I won't go beyond manufacturer's recommended interval.
Well went ahead and did it. Bought a new Civic EX today and am in love with it! Very pleasant experience with dealership. No trying to push any extras, etc. Was also able to negotiate some off price and got the 3.9%..
Just a question: Noticed a few times when I go under street lights at night that it seems to reflet on dash and cause a few bits of tiny dancing lights. Has anyone else noticed this?
Also get some static when getting out of car mainly if I lock door w/ key (which is when it has been cold out and heat was on). Does this sound normal? I'll certainly be careful at gas pumps! Don't seem to remember this with my old car.
Anyways just love my car. Am trying to come up with a cute little nickname for him.
In recent years the carbon black in tires has been replaced by silica. The primary reason was to reduce the rolling resistance and provide higher mileage. Secondary to this, it has allowed the introduction of color into the tire compounds. BFG demonstrates this with the "Scorcher" tires as well as some of the Michelin motorcycle tires as seen recently in the Gravity Games. But, it has created a small problem. The carbon black was a good conductor of electricity and the silica is not. Some of you might have noticed that not only do you get that static discharge but you might also have it happen to you multiple times on the same entry\exit of the vehicle. The static charge from the rubber meeting the road is now building up on the vehicle as you drive and finding the discharge path through you when you get in and out. All tires won't have silica in place of carbon black but a large majority of the premium tires do. There is some work going on in this area to get at least a conductive strip back into the tread area to allow the static to discharge.
My front wheels are vibrating when I turn left. Less than 2,000 miles on car. Have not hit anything or even any potholes. Any known issues with tires/suspension before I go to dealer? I know what they are going to say. Tire balance and alignment and you must have run over something.
Depending on how long your car sat at the dealer before you bought it you could just have flat spots in the tires. A couple of people have had this and the solution has been to either drive the car till it smooths out (which I did and it took a couple thousand miles for it smooth out) or take it to the dealer and some people have gotten a new set of tires.
Cartagram, I've also noticed that when I accelerate slowly in my 2001 Civic, it sounds like there is water sloshing/gurgling around. I'm concerned with this water sloshing noise. It makes this noise even without any air or heat turned on. I guess the dealership wasn't too concerned that it was a problen then, right? Even if I've been driving for a while and then stop at a light or something, it will still make that noise when I accelerate again.
I have a 00 DX hatch, when the gas tank is less than 1/2 full I turn the key until the dash lights come on. When the dash lights up, the car will hum for a sec or two. I think this is the fuel system starting up. After the hum stops, I turn the key and it usually starts up immediately.
It is only a problem when the fuel is low though. Not really an issue with me. 47,000 miles, 39mpg average, and never been to a service department.
Comments
another 60 miles or so of hovering near 1/2 full, then another sharp drop.
can we get this fixed???
The car IS comfortable for 13 hours at a time, (only stopping once or twice for gas) we did so four times this last week. (I am 6' 1", 167 pounds). The engine IS so quite you can rarely hear it. It is so smooth you can't tell it is running at stoplights. It does NOT have numerous rattles, hot or cold. (ONE only, very minimal, in the driver tweeter area since new, not worth looking for). It is not a lemon but rather the extreme reverse: never has been any more than the most reliable machine I have ever owned. Never failed to start, broke down, malfunctioned, or failed to operate like new in all those miles.
As for mileage: I have kept track of every single tank since it was new. It is not "weird" or "hard to do", I write down the miles, gallons and mileage in a log at each fill-up, it takes less than a minute. I fill it until the first click off and put in no more. I have the original Firestone tires, they have given great service, should last 50 to 60 thousand miles, I keep them at 35 psi at all times.
Here are the mileage figures of what people should be getting in this car if driven properly.
Some are with A/C, or on mountain grades etc.
These figures are from the first page of the log. Off the Honda lot, summer of 2001, mostly extreme heat 110 degrees, Phoenix AZ:
28.78 30.98 28.38 28.85 55.50 27.8 39.52 36.61
35.36 36.78 35.50 33.51 36.80 34.74 38.12
34.51 33.51 43.63 41.37 37.57 40.95 39.15 42.21
(it is easy to tell the city from the highway figures)
The following are the last page and half of my log, combination of driving, no city (only)
32.33 33.08 44.60 36.44 36.84 43.85 44.39
41.30 45.20 44.23 44.89 44.27 49.53 45.27
43.80 52.22 46.67 37.63 40.82 39.22 37.45
39.29 *41.08 *41.93 *42.15 *42.021 *41.24
53.95 31.00 36.64 37.91 38.27 *42.88 *44.64
*38.04 *39.00 *38.40 *40.38
One should expect about 39 to 42 on the freeways, and about 36 to 38 in the city with the 5 speed. As well as great service from this car!
*BY THE WAY: We drive it 78 mph on the freeways for 500 miles straight with no stops and it still gets over 40 mpg, so people that say 70 to 80 mph ruins your mileage are wacked.
Acuras too pricey (& high repair costs), Accord could only get bottom line model (& test drove 2 with vibration in steering wheel at idle- Civic I test drove had no vibration at all).
Anyways- to all of your Civic owners if you were buying a new car today would you get a Civic again? (Why or why not?)
Also side air bags (do you think they are worth it?) We have two huskies that we carry in our car at times and I have heard you should not rest your arms on door arm pads if you have side air bags. I'm afraid they may lean on them at times. Anyone else heard this?
Thanks & have good turkey Thursday
Normally I would get another Civic because this one has been so reliable and so overall economical. But the mediocre air conditioning in my 1993 Civic means I won't take a gamble and buy a 2003 Civic that may also have mediocre air conditioning.
I forgot to mention that I took the car to the dealer for the oil change and asked them to check my brakes - my car mileage wasn't 36000 but close enough. Should I take the car back to the dealer because of the light or ignore the light? Thanks
Anyways am going in to look at some new Civics later this week and hopefully buy one. Just not sure if I should try and get one w/ the vin# starting with "J" which is suppose to mean assembled in Japan. Have heard different things about this subject.
Anyone w/ a black Civic? How has the paint job held up?
Thanks
It doesn't take much to ding these cars, I have one rock hit which I would expect, but also had an empty Coke can fly out of the back of a pick-up in front of me resulting in a hood dent and missing paint.
All this being said, I still enjoy the black paint and am not disappointed in the pits and dings based on the mileage and conditions that I drive in.
My Accord is black but no way would I own a black car in a hot climate. Big difference!
And how 'bout the '03 Civic's a/c - is it cool enough?
Thanks again..
I've been driving like a granny the past week: no crazy 5000 rpm accels off the red light, 70mph consistently, with a 60:40 hwy:city ratio, and a relatively empty car interior (not lugging around excess crap). i drive automagic, but that shouldn't impact the gas mileage THAT much...
SO... what gives?
where can i usally get this fixed? and should I ask for a patch vs a plug?
thanks, guys!!
-karl
A hole in the tread area has the potential to damage the steel in the belts of the tire. One wire cut usually isn't a big deal, but multiple wires can create a problem. Depending on what punctured the tire, the tire might be considered unserviceable. A reputable vendor should make this decision for you. It is not that the tire can't be fixed to hold air again, it is the longer term effect that the broken wires in the steel belt cause.
Remember the two different Firestone debacles, the Firestone 500 and their latest one on the Explorer? One appeared to be related to contamination in the build process the other related to heat build up in an overloaded underinflated tire. In both cases the bond between the steel belts and the rest of the tire failed. A puncture in the steel belt area of the tire can have the same effect over the long term. It allows water and other contaminants to enter the tread area eventually causing the tire to delaminate. This is why plugging is not such a good idea. The plug is usually fabric reinforced and the fabric tends to wick water into the tire.
Patching the tire from the interior eliminates the wick.
Also remember to have the tire balanced after the patch.
Sorry to hear of the mileage delema you are faced with. I can't speak for the automatic, as I own the 5 speed. In spite of that, I feel that the figures you convey are a little low.
Options:
I assume your car is still under warranty, you could take it to the dealer, or a dealer that you trust and ask them about the low mileage. Perhaps there is an adjustment that can be fine tuned. Otherwise, I would check a couple other things. I have found that after 40 thousand miles of driving that 31psi is too low for the Firestone tires, (if that is what you have?). The maximum is 44psi on these tires, and I keep mine at 35psi. The door jam says 30psi. There is massive confusion on what to put in these tires. Supposedly it is up to Honda in the end, to state the required air pressures: (via door jam sticker). However, every Honda dealer and tire dealer will give you a different story from Tucson to Palm Springs to Oregon and Idaho. I have tried all the variants from 28 to 40. I can guarantee that 28 to 32 will kill your mileage. (I do believe in following the manufacture recommended door jam sticker, but NOT when it hurts my mileage) I had mine lowered by a well meaning tire expert one day, and my mileage dropped like a rock. I put them back to 35psi, and the mileage shot back up again. I am sure some out there will say, too high of air in a tire will cause uneven center wear and will be unsafe. (this is not the case with these tires) I have driven this car hard on corners and freeways at 80 mph thru hill and dale for 42 thousand miles now, the tires show normal wear and should last another 10 thousand or so. They still have good tread. You will notice from the mileage figures I posted that I have enjoyed excellent overall mileage in all that driving as well! I feel 35psi is a good pressure for the tire and car, not unsafe, as the tires are rated at 44psi, and it has not caused uneven tire wear. So try increasing your the tire pressure!
Other factors could include: Unusually dirty air cleaner or air box restrictions, fuel, use 86 or 87 octane from reputable station chain. The TYPE of oil is paramount, I use Honda filter only, and Honda 5w/20w oil as required by Honda. It is purposely designed for the extremely minimal clearance of the internal specs of this engine design and WILL effect mileage and performance if altered. Make SURE the Honda 5w/20w, is being used. It is a new grade and not readily available everywhere. I have noticed that long warm ups in the morning also effect mileage greatly for this car and is not always necessary. (also excessive idling) Good luck, you may have to resolve this issue with the dealer if you can find one that will take an intelligent and thorough evaluation of your situation.
Good Luck, these cars are made for mileage, no one should have to endure limited results in this area.
thanks for teh replies. hope today was a day of feast, not famine (my 1st time making a turkey today--and not 1/2 bad!
will try to check out NTB tomorrow (i assume there's one in the Boston area...)
redrockbunny: i believe i have dunlop tires. i'll try to up the psi to 35+ or so... last time i had an oil change, it was at the dealer. they had better be putting in Honda 5w/20w. however, will a big chain like jiffy lube have this grade? (I get the feeling the dealership keeps trying to hustle something new on me every time i set foot in the door.)
one final note: do I have to do anything special to "winterize" my car? (ie, a lighter grade of oil)?
thanks again! mmm...time for a turkey club...
they said there's "nothing wrong" with my tire, and even if there were a leak, it's a slow one (taking ~2wk to lose 10psi, vs. 2days). and for that, $15 service fee.
so, redrockbunny, I'll just be extra-vigilant with my tire pressures. i'll keep them at 36psi constantly...
I would go to a Dunlap tire dealer, and complain LOUDLY about that tire. It DOES have a leak. The tire shop you went to just didn't want to take the time to find it. Any tire that loses 10 psi every two weeks is leaking. It may be something as simple as replacing the stem or valve core, (they are notorious offenders in this regard) the tire it's self may be fine, but there is a leak. And it IS unacceptable. I would not have paid them the 15 bucks either, they didn't remedy the problem! My 2001 for instance: I set the tires at 35psi and they stay the same for months at a time. Gradually all tires will lose a few pounds caused by weather changes, elevation etc. But one by it's self, it's a leak. Hope you can resolve it. That may be the mileage problem. Even with you watching it, it still is probably low part of the time effecting your mileage. A good tire dealer can resolve the issue for you. Also check the "Maximum Pressure" reading on the side of the tire, don't exceed that figure. Also, I would be wary of Jiffy Lubes, ask them to show you the oil that they are putting in, indeed, many have never heard of 5-20w oil and don't stock it. Honda should Always use the proper oil, although some dealers don't use Honda brand. I really had to chew out a service manager in Oregon for putting in Penzoil 5-20 weight without telling me. I just assumed that Honda oil was ALWAYS used at a dealer. Now I ask for it each time. Good Luck I know that you can get that darn tire fixed by a reputable tire dealer, try Dunlap, they sell the tires, and have a vested interest in people continuing to buy them. Goodyear stores, usually as well, are real conscientious. Also if you can't resolve the tire issue, have it put on the back, it is unsafe to have a tire like that on the front. Once all this is behind you, if your mileage doesn't improve, march, don't walk, to the dealer you bought it from and insist, nicely and firmly, they resolve the mileage issue.
P.S. as for any winterizing, Honda uses 50/50 antifreeze and sells it that way. It should give you plenty of protection for temperatures you drive in. Follow your owner's manual for any special guidelines, however, I don't think there is anything you need to worry about.
Any thoughts?
In any case, the oil change interval for my fiance's 2002 Civic Coupe is 5000/1000 miles (severe/normal conditions). If the dealer is telling you that you should change it at 3,500 miles they're most likely just wanting to you to pay for more frequent oil changes.
And no, you shouldn't change the oil at 1,000 miles and in fact your Owner's Manual will tell you that. Amazing what they put in the Owner's Manual, eh? Things like how to take care of your car, when to change the oil, when to rotate the tires, how to change a flat tire, how all the buttons on the dash work...
My favorite dealer gives free oil and filter changes for as long as you own any car you buy from them. Another perk of living in Western New York.
I plan to change my oil at 7500 miles. Not because anyone told me to but it's just a nice happy medium. It gives me a cushion before 10,000 so if I go a little beyond my intended mileage I won't go beyond manufacturer's recommended interval.
Just a question: Noticed a few times when I go under street lights at night that it seems to reflet on dash and cause a few bits of tiny dancing lights. Has anyone else noticed this?
Also get some static when getting out of car mainly if I lock door w/ key (which is when it has been cold out and heat was on). Does this sound normal? I'll certainly be careful at gas pumps! Don't seem to remember this with my old car.
Anyways just love my car. Am trying to come up with a cute little nickname for him.
But, it has created a small problem. The carbon black was a good conductor of electricity and the silica is not. Some of you might have noticed that not only do you get that static discharge but you might also have it happen to you multiple times on the same entry\exit of the vehicle. The static charge from the rubber meeting the road is now building up on the vehicle as you drive and finding the discharge path through you when you get in and out.
All tires won't have silica in place of carbon black but a large majority of the premium tires do. There is some work going on in this area to get at least a conductive strip back into the tread area to allow the static to discharge.
The service manager suggested that the noise was the A/C system pressuring up, and forcing out air that had been laying in the system.
Sounded plausible, until I left the Fan off and began driving. Same sound (like water gurgling through a pipe in the wall).
So, is it still plausible that the A/C system would force out air while it is repressuring itself when the Civic first starts up?
I've also noticed that when I accelerate slowly in my 2001 Civic, it sounds like there is water sloshing/gurgling around. I'm concerned with this water sloshing noise. It makes this noise even without any air or heat turned on. I guess the dealership wasn't too concerned that it was a problen then, right? Even if I've been driving for a while and then stop at a light or something, it will still make that noise when I accelerate again.
I have a 00 DX hatch, when the gas tank is less than 1/2 full I turn the key until the dash lights come on. When the dash lights up, the car will hum for a sec or two. I think this is the fuel system starting up. After the hum stops, I turn the key and it usually starts up immediately.
It is only a problem when the fuel is low though. Not really an issue with me. 47,000 miles, 39mpg average, and never been to a service department.