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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Other than that, did you test drive the car before you bought it?
I think they charge about $3.95 per order for shipping. If you are in NYC area, you can pick it up as well. If parts are not listed on website, call the number, and they will get it for you. Don't be unrealistic with your expectations though. Nothing is free.
The sponsor of this forum, http://www.handa-accessories.com/ are pretty good too, but they are on west coast, and it takes a week to get stuff from them.
http://www.hparts.com/ are in heartland, and probably a good choice for that region.
I have ordered in the past from each of the companies once, but keep coming back to http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com because of the price and speediness, plus if I don't want to wait, I just stop by and pick up the parts from them, for the same internet price. I was so pleased with their parts department that I even bought my last car from them. Read on the forum about Fair Honda of Danbury, CT.
Horns aren't expensive to replace if its just the horn itself. They do go bad after awhile. I think a new one runs around $30-$50 depending on what you get. If you find out its just the horn itself, another option is to go to the store and buy one and put it in yourself.
#2995
I think they recommend the ATF be changed every 30K miles, but just to be sure you should always reference your maintinence schedule provided in the owner's manual for these types of things! Clean ATF is critical for an auto tranny if you want it to last.
I took it to the dealer. He charged me USD 300/-
The dealer said he had to do the following:
replace spark plugs - 18.44
ignition wire - 71.43
Cap Assy - 34.13
Head Assy.. Rotor - 28.34
-------
152.34
--------
What is CAP ASSY and HEAD ASSY ROTOR ?
That is the cost of the parts. He charged me an additional 170 for Labor.
Is the total cost reasonable? The parts all looked small. I am not sure about the labor charged. Just wanted to make sure I was not excessively charged...
Any insight appreciated..
Thx
Alan
Cap Assy - 34.13 = most likely the distributor cap
Head Assy.. Rotor - 28.34 = most likely the rotor in the distributor.
replace spark plugs - 18.44 the most expensive plugs from Bosh are $4 a piece for a total $16, NGK's are about $3/each, there are cheap alternatives at $1/each
ignition wire - 71.43 OEM Honda wires from internet dealer is about $30, same for aftermarket wire at auto store.
Cap Assy - 34.13 $20 for aftermarket, $30 for OEM
Head Assy.. Rotor - 28.34 $15 for aftermarket about the same for OEM
You would also need diaelectric grease, $2 and tools. Most auto zone stores will read your "Check engine light" and reset it for free.
Labor = one afternoon (2 hours at most), greasy knuckles, and satisfaction of job well done (maybe admiration from the MRS)
What are these "auto zone" stores you were talking about. Is it a chain of stores? Any one recommend a good mechanic in the Orange County - CA area. By good I mean, does the job well, does what is needed only, with reasonable prices.. Thx.
I'm afraid to even think what he did to get rid of the light
it wasn't the maint. light was it?
on the 88 you have a two prong connector that you can jump and the check engine light will blink a code. get a cheap book on your car and you can read your own codes to help protect yourself.
yes autozone is a chain store. maybe they're not in your area
Most Auto zone, Pep boys, Strauss Auto, and other chain stores have code scanner on hand and will run the codes in hopes that you will buy parts from them.
Good luck.
good luck
Also, I noticed that when the car is low on gas, the engine has a hard time cranking. Sometimes it will sputter for a few seconds before turning on. At first, I thought it could be a battery problem, when I filled up the tank, the problem went away. Is this common on all Civics?
Never heard of this one before!
Actually, when I took the car to the dealership, they said it could be "the linkage" too. But after they jack the car up, they didn't find anything broken or bad. They then said it could be a dirty injection system and suggested a $120 "fuel system flush" service -- which I think was a joke.
Anyway, of course you could be right since none of us really knows what's going on. But the fuel system cleaner did work for me, and I think it won't hurt to try a six-dollar experiment.
The cap assy would be the distributor cap. The head assy rotor is the distributor rotor that spins inside the cap.
Here is what I paid at a Seattle dealership today:
Cap 26.39
Rotor 21.94
I have a 97 ex coupe. Maybe the older car parts fetch more....
I thought this was pricey but I was not surprised.
Easy to do yourself !
Carl
The gas pedal in our 97 ex coupe was stiff. I found a recall on the throttle cable that I will follow up on but here is my temporary fix.
Just before the throttle cable connects to the spool/linkage on the engine there is a protective rubber boot. The small end has a small ring retainer that is pinched too tight. The boot has grease in it but was still binding. I sprayed lubricant in the boot, slid the boot back and forth to loosen things up and I have a smooth pedal now.
Your problem could also be where the cable goes thru the firewall. The service guides say use a silicon lubricant for that.
Has anyone else had a Honda Dealer throttle recall/ replacement ?
Carl
Now i have a problem with the keyless entry.
The remote key does not work. The battery is ok.
Would I be able to diagnose and repair the problem?
Thanks.
Turns out it was a bad fuel injector. It failed open and flooded the engine. Dealer didn't stock the part so they took one off a new car to get me out the door. Had them change the oil too since it was near the 5000 mile mark and all that raw fuel pouring down the cylinder wall wasn't real great for the oil.
This thing just failed without warning. No stumbling or poor running at all. Good thing the Civic is a good "glider". I just coasted around a corner out of traffic and waited for the tow truck.
If it's dirty injectors, try the Techron. I had a hesitation problem on a 96 Subaru Impreza, and 1 can of that cleared it up.
I am having the same problem and today its not starting at all
After about 3-4 weeks the problem is surfacing again. After driving for a while, when i stop at signal the needle moves up to red, when i go on roads that have slight elevation, the needle moves to red...
Any one face similar prob and what the fix was?
Thanks
alan.
More expensive....Head gasket.
The instruction sheet for the installation said to disconnect the negative battery cable which I did. I've heard that when the battery is reconnected to the car's electrical system, the computer is reset to default parameters which could result in less than optimum performance until the car is driven a bit.
Any ideas folks as to the cause of the stalling? Just coincidence that the problem cropped up after installing the keyless entry system?
Since just about every repair done has "disconnect negative battery cable" as step #1, I hope I don't have to go through this each time I do maintenance on the car. Strange that none of my maintenance manuals mention this issue.
Can anyone help?
thanks