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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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I realize you posted your message a while ago but I just bought a used Civic Ex Automatic (94) and I am experiencing the same problem. I just had the transmission fluid and filter changed but it seems to have a little (minute) trouble when shifting from 1st to second and 2nd to 3rd. I also found that by lifting up on the gas pedal a half second it shifts automatically. I am wondering what you did about the problem. Will I need a new transmission? Or how long can I hold out as you did for two years- meaning at what point do I have to do something about it? Any advice you (or anyone else) can provide on the issue is deeply appreciated as I am a novice and trying to save money.
Thank you.
Thanks,
Stan
If I can project!! ?? The technical data indicates 110,000 miles/7 years. With 9,000 miles it is an easy case to make mathmatically to say you have 101,000 miles to go.
On the other hand the 7 years time frame serves as a baseline. The dealer can make a case that given the manufacturers recommendation of 7 years, they can not be held responsible for the damage if the belt breaks. (establishing fearful doubt?)
What they do not tell you is they are probably not responsible for the damage if after they change the belt the belt breaks and causes damage. They might however in the fine print gurantee the belt and labor for like 12,000 miles but the damage they alluded to would probably not be covered. Again the best is to see the written guarantees.
I am not saying YOU should do THIS... BUT... IF the vehicle were mine, this is what I would do. Most vehicles in 7 years will go an average yearly 12-15 k miles. That of course translates to 84,000 to 105,000 miles. This is also hidden in plain sight: Honda recommends a timing belt change (among other things) 110,000 miles/7 years. Mathmatically this would indicate 15,714.285 miles!!!! Hmmm seems to be a coincidence here?? So given my 2004 Honda Civic 10,000 mile first oil change recommendation, YOU are not even past break in!!!
Let us know what you decide.
Your belt is the same. Despite rumors to the contrary, it won't just go from looking brand new into a broken belt. If you visually inspect the belt, you will see signs of wear and aging. Wear is fairly obvious, fraying on the edges, missing rubber teeth on the side where the belt touches the pulley are extremes. Less extreme are smaller cracks on the flat surface of the belt, the surface of which may also start looking glazed rather than flat black.
The belt is fairly easy to inspect by removing the upper cover. You can then rotate the belt by turning the engine over by hand with the igntion off, or by bumping the ignition. Not the best idea, but some people drive with this cover off which makes inspection on a regular basis easy.
You should be able to make a pretty good judgment call after looking at the belt if you should replace it or keep going. But remember, you are the one taking the gamble. We all have different tolerance for risk. If the idea of the belt being out of the maintenance replacement tolerance will bother you every time you drive, replace the belt for peace of mind. If on the other hand you are willing to assume the risk, keep an eye on it and keep driving. Mine is almost at 180,000 miles and four years, and it hasn't been replaced.
Thanks again for your responses.
Stan
Thanks.
It would cause the O2 sensor to do what it's designed to do, sense excess oxygen in the exhaust stream which the engine control computer would interpret as a lean air/fuel mixture.
I kept pressing unlock but the same thing kept happening, the drivers door lock would go up a little bit then right back down. Using the key in the door will not work either. HELP!
Use a can opener to get to the switch from the outside :-) lol
You will need to remove the interior door panel. If you plan on doing work your self, buy Helms manual. Haynes is ok, and chilton is really cheap. There should be a couple of screws and half dozen clips holding the panel to the door.
The 1998 in question indeed has a timing belt, but don;t be so quick to make conclusions. There is a Civic with a timing chain -- 2002 -- 2005 Honda Civic Si uses K-series engine, which has timing chain.
This morning on the way into work I started having the same issues. So I will be installing a new Thermostat tonight, hopefully this will resolve the issue. By the way I too live in Phoenix.
quote: needs throttle body/distributor sub assembly/speed sensor
(what they called a speed sensor is a sensor on the throttle body)
First I put a brand new distributor from Auto Zone......
Then I tried 2 more used throttle bodies with no luck!!!
Should I buy a new throttle body from the dealer for $600?
3 used throttle bodies with no luck? What are the odds?
I need help!!!!!!!!!!!
Aren't those springs great??!!!! I have a set on my car too..
Peas
It would be awesome if there was a recall like a while back that we didn't know about cuz that means.....NEW CAR!! or it just may be a damn :lemon:
Matt
I've searched on this forum regarding my problem but now I would like to get a personal answer.
I civic started overheating about a month ago. I would drive it for an hour or so on country roads and highways and the would be fine. Then when I do more stop and go my temp needle would go up, couple of time it went to the top for 4-5 seconds and then back to normal.
My coolant is new, radiators are good(although one of the two should be replaced soon.
However, one of the fans( the fan closer to the coolant tank) is not working. I checked the fuse(one fuse runs both fans) and it is fine. It could be an electrical problem with the fan. I will check this out with my friend sometime this weekend.
Any of you guys have a problem similar to this? or have suggestions for me on what to do?
I appreciate your time and take care
I decline the service for now, but would appreciate any comment on whether this is a reasonable charge. Thanks.
i've had the very same problem with a 1993 honda civic. you might want to change the distributor cap, rotor and wires, especially the wires.
worked for me
spark plug wires... were they ever changed at all the processes?
try changing them yourself and save a few bucks .
good luck!
I've searched on this forum regarding my problem but now I would like to get a personal answer.
I civic started overheating about a month ago. I would drive it for an hour or so on country roads and highways and the would be fine. Then when I do more stop and go my temp needle would go up, couple of time it went to the top for 4-5 seconds and then back to normal.
My coolant is new, radiators are good(although one of the two should be replaced soon.
However, one of the fans( the fan closer to the coolant tank) is not working. I checked the fuse(one fuse runs both fans) and it is fine. It could be an electrical problem with the fan. I will check this out with my friend sometime this weekend.
Any of you guys have a problem similar to this? or have suggestions for me on what to do?
I appreciate your time and take care
One radiator is for the A/C, the other is for the Engine. The two fans are independant of each other. Turn your A/C on and you should see the other fan come on. That is if the system is charged. If you are low on refrigerant, the a/c will not enagage, nor will the fan. You can trace the hoses to see which is which. If your car is overheating, and then cools off, then it is most likley the engine radiator fan that is shot, or wiring is pinched. Get your self a multimeter and check it all out. If it is indeed the fan, and not the wiring, the replacement is easy. Unplug the connector (you may have to push in a pin or something to unlock it. Remove two bolts on top, loosen two on the bottom (may depend on the year), pull the fan straight up. Installation is reverse.
Why are you screaming?
First you have to confirm that you are getting fuel to the injectors. Hook up the fuel pressure gauge to the end of the fuel rail (there is fitting there) IF that is fine, then you have to check if you are getting spark. And so on.. You have to do all this while the car is malfunctioning. It makes no sence to wait until the morning, when everything works fine.
P.S. Try to be a little bit more queter next time. Shouting will not get you far.
I assume you have a Honda and it is a Civic of some year and trim level. The replacement is probably the only solution.Depending on the year, you may have to deal with airbag removal. Steering wheel will be bolted down using a nut. Once steering wheel is removed, there should be screws or bolts, specific to your model, which will allow you to remove the turn signal/high beam/headlight switch and wiper switch on opposite side. Once again, depending on the year it may be a two piece or one piece assembly.
Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch
Honda Civic/CRX/del Sol 1984-1995 Repair Guide
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1988-91 Models
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the upper and lower steering column covers.
Disconnect the connectors from the switch.
Remove the switch retaining screws and slide the switch from its mount.
To install:
Install the new switch in position and connect the electrical leads.
Install the upper and lower steering column covers.
I thought I posted a message along these lines yesterday, but I don't see it in the forum yet, so here goes again.
Thanks.
Your gas station switches to winter gas, which will give you lower MPG's. Are you warming up the car? That will lower your MPG's as well. According to Honda it is OK to drive cold.
One thing you might want to do is file a report with the NHTSA, you can do it online at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
Problems are tracked and that will help other owners, although won't probably help you at this point.
Thanks
Zach
I am not sure what are you trying to do? If you just replace the flywheel designed for automatics with a flywheel designed for manuals, what does it accomplish? Are you sure tha pressure plate mounting holes on the manual flywheel are in the same location as the torque converter mounting holes on the automatic flywheel?
If you are going for the lightened flywheel, to get more power, you need to lose the slushbox first. Any power gains and engine responsivness will be minimized by the auto tranny.
What was the engine RPM when the car lurched? If it were running higher than 1000 RPM's any auto will lurch. I think your only recourse is to take the dealer up on the 72 hour replacement policy and get your self a manual LX. This way nothing will be lurching (if you clutch it smoothly) when you engage the gears.
Have AutoZone (free) or the dealer (1 hour of labor charge) read the code and tell you what it is.