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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
The A/C will cool great for 5 - 30 minutes, then may quit working for 30 minutes, then start working again. It seems random.
I agree that the A/C seems to normally work in the morning or night, but when it is really hot (when you need the A/C) is doesn't work.
By the way, I have taken mine into two different Honda dealerships and they could not find a problem. Of course it worked while I had it in the dealership.
I would love to solve this problem.
I also had similar problem with 2003 civic ex. Stuck in 2nd gear. There is no noise, and check engine light is off too.
I am hoping transmission is not busted.
Is there any routine maintenance I should be getting at 100,000? I just got it inspected yesterday, and everything passed with no repairs necessary. I got new brakes last year, so I'm not due for them.
The pickup seems a little worse than it used to be.
Sorry for the vagueness, I'm definitely not a car person and I'm just looking for some things I might do for better upkeep.
Any help is much appreciated.
Can you recall more specific information about what sensor is doing this? I'm having a hard time getting this problem across to these folks and it has already been in the shop all day once.
Thanks
I have a 2003 Civic and I am experiencing the same exact noise. When I take it to the mechanic, my car does not make the noise which prevents them from diagnosing the problem. When you find out the problem, please let me know and if I find out, I will let you know as well. Good luck with the search.
Log on to American Honda Ownerlink and register for a (free) account. If you enter the information about your Civic you can view the Honda recommended service intervals. Some models even have a downloadable Owners Manual available.
Thanks,
Gustavo Luna
Houston, Texas
I replaced the Compressor Clutch Coil and checked everything under the hood using the Honda manual flo-chart.
The system is fully charged and all wiring under the hood checked out along with the relays and pressure switch.
If anyone has any suggestions on what it could be I would really appreciate it.
I know that the ignition switch is glitchy because somethimes it will not start and I have to push in harder while turning the key then it starts fine.
It's a great little car I just need to figure out the A/C ?
Am contacting Honda customer service. Found out a friend of a friend had the same problem, and Honda paid for the new transmission. Am writing them tonight. Worth a shot...
I don't understand, she got injured from the shattered clutch, but there was no impact? How does that happen? Unless pieces of the clutch punctured the bell housing, and firewall and flew into the cabin, I can not see how shuttered clutch would cause injuries. Even if the shattered clutch seized up the fly wheel and cause the wheels to stop turning, the CV joints would have given way to the momentum. I think siezed up tranny shock is less than full power brake (to lock up) application at 45 mph. I have never heard of anyone getting injured from slamming on their brakes.
It is very easy to determine what happened at the moment. Most new cars computers store on board information up to the last 3 minutes. If she indeed downshifted into 1st at 45 mph, the computer would show a sudden surge of engine RPM's past the red line, past the rev limiter. I am not even sure it is possible to shift into 1st at 45 mph without rev matching, but this would be beyond engine's rev capability. Also, the synchros would show damage from shoving the shifter into 1st at 45 mph. It is quite possible that she was able to shove the shifter in 1st at 45 mph, which caused the clutch plate to spin beyond its rev maximum, which increased the centripical forces on the friction material, which just started being flung off the plate, even before she had a chance to release the clutch. Which would not show in the engine record, but will show in the ECM's tranny record.
I am still puzzled how one gets injured by mis-shifting or shattered clutch.
You may have to pry rather sternly if it is jammed.
That should work. Good luck
wft
Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
Thanks for your help!
Additionally, who cruises in 4th gear on the expressway?
Other tidbits that don't make sense...
How did the clutch shatter while cruising at such a low speed? You'd think it would be pressed against the flywheel so hard that that that would keep it from coming apart. Shattered clutches nearly always happen while shifting.
What's left of the disc? It actually would be pretty easy to see if that damage was caused be a missed shift. There should be some shear to metal in the reverse direction of drive.
Are the tires flat spotted? A force that hard should have locked up the tires.
Did the ECU record a RPM spike?
Was there any other damage to the car?
Most telling is that there are no lawyers so far that will accept the case. It doesn't sound winnable to me either. I hope you have health insurance for these bills.
Good luck.
I evacuated the a/c and re charged with the correct amount of R134 and during the day when it is hot the a/c stops cooling but in the morning it seems to do ok.
Any ideas, If I wasn't already losing my hair this would surely start it..
Thanks,
wft
:confuse:
State of Warning Indicator when event occurred (ON/OFF)
Length of time the warning lamp was illuminated
Crash-sensing activation times or sensing criteria met
Time from vehicle impact to deployment
Diagnostic Trouble Codes present at the time of the event
Ignition cycle count at event time
Maximum ΔV for near-deployment event
ΔV vs. time for frontal airbag deployment event
Time from vehicle impact to time of maximum ΔV
State of driver's seat belt switch
Time between near-deploy and deploy event (if within 5 seconds)
Passenger's airbag enabled or disabled state
Engine speed (5 sec before impact)
Vehicle speed (5 sec before impact)
Brake status (5 sec before impact)
Throttle position (5 sec before impact)
These are parameters for GM vehicles, and some selected Ford models.
Currently, automotive technicians are unable to access this information, but the manufacturer can for the purpose of airbag system evaluation, and only through Vetronics Diagnostics. This information is not generally released to anyone. However, under certain circumstances, the police may access this information with the aid of the manufacturer or special computer programs.
The resulting data may find its way into a courtroom during a civil or criminal action. Such information has been used in court to prosecute an at-fault driver in a fatal collision.
To my knowledge, Honda does not yet have this capability.
For more information, check:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/studies/record/chidester.htm
Good
Checked wiring harnesses and they are all connected. I believe it is in the ignition, something not telling the car it is on or running therefore not switching on signals, gauges, etc.
Just looking for feedback before replacing parts.
I checked the compressor when it should be engaged and it was not.
There was battery voltage to the clutch coil with a good ground it is just that
the clutch will not engage and it has a new clutch coil.
It does work for a while when it is cool outside but in the heat of the day forget it.
I am wondering if the compressor clutch is bad because it has power it just doesn't engage.
wft
Such things like:
P0135- O2 Sensor Heater Circut Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0141- O2 Sensor Heater Circut Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P1298- Honda manufacturer code of some sort...If any one knows about that one please tell me
1.The SRS light was on when I bought it. I'm fairly confident that this car had not deployed its airbags, but I can't be certain. I have heard that this light can come on for a variety of reasons. What should I do? From what I have read, sounds like I should take it to dealership and have them check it and reset if its nothing serious. But I hear that can be $65-100. Any other routes I could take besides this one?
2.One thing that concerned me but currently is not a problem is the check engine light came on. I bought the car, drove it 2 hours on interstate, then ran it through an automatic carwash and a couple of things happened. First, even though the car was in park, the green light for drive on the guage cluster started flashing a few times, then after a sequence of flashes and no flashes it stopped(about1-2 minutes elapsed, this happened while I was in the bay getting washed). Next when I pulled out, the check engine light came on, then after a few minutes of driving, the speedometer dial started bouncing around erratically. I have read a few posts where this may be attributed to a harness around the manifold rubbing. Is that the case here or not? Now the second part of this. The next day I drove and picked up a new air filter, installed it and took the car to have new tires, oil change and have corrosion taken off the battery posts. When I got back in the car, check engine light was off and speedometer now works. So I wonder if disconnecting battery cleared it or if something else caused it to go away? After 20 minutes of driving, stopping and another car wash(first one did a crappy job!) drove on home still with no light on and speedometer working. I'm hoping it doesn't come back. And back to the transmission issue, it hasn't happened again in the 1 day that has elapsed since. Transmission seems to shift ok, the only thing that felt different to me while I have had the car is that it seems to be geared low or possibly taking to long to shift out into OD. It doesn't happen all the time, but sometimes I notice after letting off the gas from mild accelaration, it takes a second or two for it to shift out. My transmission mechanic friend via phone told me if the lockup wasn't working properly the check engine light would be one. But of course, that light came on under different circumstances and now has went back off. Any ideas?
3.The maintenance required slot or whatever it is on the guages cluster is red. What does this mean and how can it be reset. I assumed this probably come on after 100,000 miles or something. Anything to be worried about?
4.I know I need a new timing belt because it has not been changed yet. What will this cost me on average? I hear anywhere from $300 to 500. Are there any other maintenance items I should be doing at 117,000 miles? I have bought this car for commuting so I hope to get another 100,000 miles out of it at least. I hope with diligent maintenance and care this can be accomplished. I have always wanted to own a Civic and I'm excited to have one now. In just two days, I love it even with the issues I have mentioned. I hope none are too serious. Thanks for any feedback guys!
One other thing, I guess if the sticker for the car(yep it was still in the glove box!)says it didn't come with keyless entry then I probably can't add a remote and program it right? I would need to install a system? Just wishful thinking I guess!...