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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
i would also check the fuses. i think there is one for low-beam, and another for high-beam. make sure relays and fuses are inserted well in their locations (to verify this - i myself would remove and re-insert them - i think there is a little tool in the compartment to help you do that).
look for signs of any moisture in the relay/fuse compartment there. if the fuses look good and you've removed and re-installed them (and also a relay if it exists), then as a test i might try swapping an identical numbered relay (if there is one for the headlights and another with the same number in the compartment).
again, i'd look in your owners manual for the location of this relay (if there is one) in the fuse / relay compartment.
hope it helps.
FYI
Thank you. I got my car from another Curry Honda dealer, not the one that post the deal on the web. They tried to sell me the Honda Care Extended Warranty for $1650. I did not take it from them. It all depends on who you run into.
Everyone tries to maximize profits, and woo to the ones that are ignorant.
I did get caught paying to Curry Honda the following:
Premium Lojack package installed with life time warranty for the ownership of the car. Lojack refund if the car is stolen anyway. Lojack to call me within one hour if the car is moved without my presence and knowledge.
And also he installed a Lojack passive alarm. All for $1300.
After I okayed the deal, I found out that Lojack could probably be done for a lot less, because the dealer invoice price for the Lojack Premium Package with Passive alarm is only about $700.
I called the dealer back. They told me that early in the morning they already installed the Lojack, and it is too late for me. So I got taken.
Lesson, you could make a smart bargain for the car, and later get taken by the finance guy with warranties and Lojack and other add ons. Also you must know who you are talking to. People are biased by virtue of their role, and which side of the business they are standing with.
The dealership is a minefield. Every step can be a big
explosion. I learned my lesson too late.
P.S. Also I tried to get some information by calling Lojack Corp directly. I had asked for customer relations.
The lady on the telephone told me that Lojack has a non-negotiating price of $1295 for my package even if I get it from Lojack. That it was a very fair price that I am getting from the dealer.
It then set the stage for me to over paid for the package.
It was later that I found out that she was the retail sales representative, and was aiming to maximize profits.
After that I found out that there may be fleet managers that would sell Lojack Premium Packages for a lot less.
Thanks, Manny
You have brought up your Lojack issue in several forums.
At the time you bought it, you thought it was a good value, right?
Then, somehow, you found out the dealer cost was a lot less then you paid?
Even if your numbers are correct,(?), why worry yourself to death over this now?
It sounds like you are more concerned over what the dealer might have made than the value of the product to you!
Get over it...enjoy your new car!
I have a 2001 Civic Coupe with 50,000 miles. There is knocking or clunking noise in from front end when going over bumps or ripples in the road at low speed. My Honda dealer has replaced both front struts & sway bar bushings but the noise persists. Can anyone shed any light on this ?
I've heard it is a common complaint on this model, in particular the sway bar.
I just might have to do that. I e mailed the dealer, asking him to remove the Lojack citing the New York State Consumer Law on Contracts Protection, that there are 72 hours for me to change my mind.
The dealer did not even answer me. Although there were a million e mails of congratulations and e mails prodding me to get my papers ready to pick up the car before. Now all of a sudden, I do not even hear from him.
I wish I belong to the group of people who do not need to chalk it up to experience, and can do it right the first time.
Manny
Hope you're still around to let us know how you made out.
But I agree with the other posters - if your pan was leaking, you probably need a new gasket, unless the pan itself has a hole in it. I saw a 1991 Accord like this - the pan rusted through. The Honda parts guy said that this happens a lot on all the Honda models as they get old.
I've worked on cars all my life and I've never seen this on any other car.
The one problem I encountered,prob due to it being new,
was the sat. start-up. Paid for the dealer to install so it was intergrated into the nav/radio system which has a button for XM. When I picked up the car, the salesperson said all I had to do to activate was to go home, go to web site, punch in a number and it would work. No dice. When I woke on Saturday and it did not work called XM customer service but they said they could not get it to work, to go back to the dealer. I went back to the dealer and another saleperson told my salesperson that the dealership has to activate the system through XM web site by punching in special dealer code this way customer gets first three months free. Once this was done, worked immediatly. I blame the dealership for not prepping the salespeople on
this. Now I have to go back to XM and make sure I get my three free months. Also, the sterring wheel radio controls do not change channel on sat radio, have to call tomorrow and find out. Was told it would but it does not.
I've worked on cars all my life and I've never seen this on any other car."
You obviously don't live in a rust belt. It's common for engine and transmission pans to rust through from the outside in areas where salt is used on the roads in winter.
Why are you concerned about what the dealer is selling your "trade - in" for, on their used car lot? You traded in this vehicle, because for some reason, you did not like the quality. They can ask any price that they want for this vehicle. It is their property!
Please avoid arguments online. If anyone is having a problem with someone else's postings, please let your Host know immediately by e-mail and he will settle the matter as quickly and fairly as possible.
Thank you, and remember, you are here to enjoy yourself and give and get help and information.
Shifty the Host
You reply to deans1 was of interest to me. I am taking delivery of the Civic 06 next Wednesday November 30th, 2005. I am taking your advice to heart, and will check out the details before I finalize the finacial transaction.
I am fond of the proverb, "All is well, that ends well."
Thank you.
Manny
The car is perfect, rides great and handles well.
Can get better deal on Accords from what I was told by a few different dealers. Nice people at Clinton Honda in NJ.
They also have to take time in explaining the nav system.
Ive noticed that the engine tone changes and gets very harsh about 4000rpm in any gear. Is this the normal sound of the VTEC kicking in?, or do i have a problem with the engine.. Please help..thanx :lemon:
I went to various junk yards and found a door lock module out of a 95. I know it’s not the same module but I plugged it in and it would lock/unlock only the driver’s door.
I’ve noticed that when locking and unlocking with the old module, as well as the module out of the 95 Civic, there is not just a single pop when the actuator locks and unlocks. When I click the switch to unlock I hear the first pop when it unlocks and then a few residual pops like the actuators inside both doors are still getting power. It’s much softer sounding on either the lock or unlock but still several short bursts come from the actuators in both doors (only the driver’s door with the 95 civic module). If you can picture the 1st CLICK when locking or unlocking the door and then a quick “thud” “thud” “thud” at the actuators after the 1st click.
After hooking the module up from the junk yard and hearing that same noise I am wondering if the real problem is the driver’s side door lock control module or someplace else.
Has anyone else ever heard this noise? Can other Civic owners lock and unlock their door and listen around the latch area where the door closes into the car body and tell me if there is a single click when it locks or possibly some other noises after the first click?
I really hate to put out the money for a new module if it’ll just get burnt out because of some other problem.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I have this problem on my 2001 with 108,000 Kms (that's about 65,000 Miles). The wheel starts jumping up and down on the passenger side when I go over ripples in the road as well. It is especially bad in the rain for some reason. I just noticed that the 2002 I just bought has had the front struts replaced too.
The dealer told me I had leaky shocks on my last servicing and says they want $700 to replace the front struts.
Did you get any other responses to this query? I see only the one from Lily234.
Cheers,
Mike
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
I finally convinced the dealership to replace the stuts under warranty and the noise is gone for now. I'm not too happy about the quality of the suspension, and I don't want to have to buy new struts after the warranty expires.
I've read a lot of posts about bad struts on the Honda Civic so I'm woried I may get stuck with the next repair bill.
New struts at 15,000 miles fixed my noise (for now) but I wouldn't be surprised if it came back.
Good luck with your noise.
I'm bringing the car back to the dealer to have it checked. They replaced both front struts in Feb '05, they should last more than 10 months. No other responses before yours.
Jeff
St. John's, NL
I have 96 Civic, the Check engine light came on just driving down the road. There is no noticeable difference in the operation of the car. Is there a way I can check the code without going to a shop. Someone told me a long time ago that there is a connector or something that you jump out & watch how many times the ck eng light flashes to obtain the code. Can this be done?
It's hard to test relays but sometimes circuits use identical relays (same part # on the relay) and you can swap them out for testing purposes--or if you know what you're doing you can bypass the relay with a jumper wire in order to test it.
maybe you should ask your question in "Got a Quick Technical Question?" or "Transmission Tramas" forums.
Thanks
Cheryl
thanx.
First off, I have a 2000 Honda Civic Si (Canadian) 5 Speed. Anyways a few years back I had a Clifford alarm installed with an autostart and ever since than my parking brake light comes on all the time, even though the brake is off. I think that it has something to do with the autostart being wired into the brake system for activation. (Stupid process you have to go through to get the autostart to work on a manual car). Has anyone experienced this problem? Is there any way I can just disconnect the parking brake light altogether? I know I can tell when the parking brake is on..
Thanks for any help in advance.
Thanks
Edmunds just did a story about pedal extenders...here's the link for you:
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/101512/article.html
MrShiftright
Host
She sat in the Mazda, Golf, Jetta, Accord, and Civic and had the best view from the Civic. We couldn't find a Scion to try, and I didn't want to spend the money on a Mini.
Many of the cars sort of "sweep up" in the rear and block the visibility of a shorter driver when looking backward, as a driver would do when backing up. The Accord was close to the Civic, but had a little less visibility for her out of the back.We would have had to remove the center rear headrest and even then, it was just a little harder to see out of than the Civic. I liked the Passat and Jetta because of the traction control feature, but she couldn't see very well at all out of the back of those cars.