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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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Comments

  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Sorry, but in my humble opinion after trying most of the products that are spoken of here, "NONE OF THEM" will last longer then 3 months. No carnuba based wax has durability!

    You have to go with a polymer of some kind to approach 6 months!!!!!!
  • hippo168hippo168 Member Posts: 115
    I just bought my first "new" car, and I'm planning to take good car of it. It has a dark grey metallic color, and I'm not sure what products are good for cleaning/polishing/waxing...

    I don't have too much time to do the job, except a couple hours during the weekends. From what I learned from my friends and read from other boards, I'm going with the Eagle1 Wet Car Wash, and then I'll use the Meguiar's #6 Cleaner Wax for polish and protection.

    There are a group of people who strongly suggested the Klasse All-in-one, do I use it in place of the Meguiar #6?? ALso, did I miss anything before, between, or after?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Winter prep should be pretty much the same as any other time of year. Make sure you do it before it gets too cold (under 50) as wax and polish do not like cold cars.

    A polymer product wil last longer in harsh conditions. There are all kinds - one we've been talking about is Klasse. It's not easily findable in stores but readily available off the net.

    What I used to do during Chicago winters is wash the car at least once a week. When weather permitted I used a spray wax (at a minimum) to kep some protection on the car. It's easy, inexpensive and does the trick until the thaw.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    Well, there's a lot ot talk about. Before you get too wrapped up in this you may want to check out a few website for research and learnin'. Try Eagleone.com, Meguiars.com, and carcareonline.com. You'll be amazed at all the info out there on car care.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Is stronger than a glaze, but definitely not a compound. I've found it to be effective in removing swirl marks from orbital buffers without damaging the clear coat. However if the finish is damaged in any way I would not recommend it.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Hippo168. As mentioned earlier in this discussion, cleaner waxes shine well, but are not durable. If you want durability, throw away the cleaner wax, use a glaze twice a year, and spend a few dollars more and purchase both liquid and past Meguiar's #26 Hard Yellow.

    My durability has gone from 4-6 weeks in the summer to four months and still going.

    Natural Waxes won't turn yellow like all acrylics and polymers eventually do. They are basically plastics and will yellow. Waxes don't layer, and so the old coat cleans off easily with a glaze.

    But fortunately I have many winter days in the 40's so I can reapply a coat of wax in the middle of winter.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    over the years I've used literally gallons of #6. It's great when used with an orbital. As long as the car's paint isn't too oxidized or damaged, #6 is a real nice one-step. No, it doesn't last as long as others and I'm sure other products shine better. But it's more than adequate for 80% of the jobs needed.

    I've tried many products and recommended quite a few. But the only one-step I actually use is #6.

    Well, that and Eagle One Wet which is also a nice, easy to use product.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Dang, it's cold in Canada. Snow can stay for many months. I don't think Chicago is the same. My daughter in law grew up in Upper Penninsula Michigan, and they would have snow on the road for 3-5 months. Washing in the real cold did little good.


    Here is one, but they sell a natural product.


    http://waxdepot.safeshopper.com/faq.htm?175


    Here is a contrasting opinion.


    http://www.autopia-carcare.com/klasse.html


    It might be OK for winter care to use Liquid Glass, or Klasse. A carnauba on top would add an additional layer of protection if the salt is really bad.

  • hippo168hippo168 Member Posts: 115
    thanks for the info, I don't have much experience using polish/wax (I used auto car wash for my old car).

    It seems both the eagle1 and meguiar #6 are good and easy-to-use. I think I'll go with those, and "practice" my skills. I can get the more sophisticated stuff later when I feel more comfortable.

    Also, I don't mind applying the #6 every month or so, as you stated it does not last too long. That is until winter, I don't have the luxury of 40degrees winter like mrdetailer, I live in the NE.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I abandoned my one step Kmart type of products. I picked up the #7 and #26 and immediately said to myself: Why did I wait so long? I mean, you put it on and using 100% cotton wipe it off. What could be easier? There is really no comparison when compared to the one step products. Although in all honesty, I haven't tried the #6. Don't think I ever will. I may try another wax next spring-but am very happy with the #26.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    It really is less work in the long run with the 2 step method. I like to wash with the Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo, or Kitt with Carnauba to preserve that great shine.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    3M's Perfect-It Show Car Wax

    It's an ad of course, but has some interesting information.

    Once every so often a product innovation comes along that is truly an advancement and establishes a new standard of performance. Acrylic Silicone Fluoropolymer (A.S.F.), developed by research chemists at 3M, is such a breakthrough. By chemically grafting silicone and fluorine onto an acrylic backbone, a new fluoropolymer is created that is extremely slippery, water repellent and bonds to modern automotive finishes.

    Perfect-It Show Car Paste Wax is the first 3M product to take full advantage of A.S.F. Suspended in the wax, these fluoropolymers create a surface that actually repels dirt and grease - they just don’t stick to it! Show Car Paste Wax fills minor scratches and swirls and protects new and like-new finishes with a tough, high gloss wax shield.

    Note: This is a pure wax without any cleaning properties. Surfaces should be pre-cleaned with 3m Imperial Hand Glaze (fresh paint) or 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover (cured factory paint) prior to first time application.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    I have used Meguiar's products for 3 years and on 2 cars I absolutely love them. The hard yellow #26 is very durable on these finishes and has lasted 6 months in the winter with little wear.

    But I bought a Mazda 2 years ago that was a light pink instead of it's true sunrise red. With a lot of work is looks new. However Wax coats don't hold up as well. In 3-4 weeks after my touch up paint has set I will clay bar the car and use the 3M Perfect-it Show Car Wax, I'll let you know. Of course this winter will be the long term test.
  • jukeboxcarl2jukeboxcarl2 Member Posts: 35
    When you use it make sure you use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze first. If you put this on top of wax or other products the results are not good. This wax is good and so is Collinite. The Collinite Double Coat is the most durable wax I have found. I'm testing the 3M Perfect IT Show Car Wax now and will report on it later.
  • britton2britton2 Member Posts: 305
    Are you saying not to use the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze on your car if there's some wax on it? I bought the 3M hand glaze but I haven't used it yet - I have some paste wax on my car now (Mother's) so I should wait until it's time to wax again before using it? thanks
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    It makes complete sense to me. With the new chemical formulation it needs a clean, wax free so the new chemicals in the 3M wax can freely bind to the paint's surface.
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Member Posts: 183
    Klean Strip Auto Prep.

    I'm thinking of using it before I do the Clay Bar next weekend.
  • jukeboxcarl2jukeboxcarl2 Member Posts: 35
    You answered the question correctly. I really like using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze not only as a polish but a cleaner and old wax remover as well. This makes a very good 2 step system in most cases. If your paint is old or in bad shape you'll need a more aggresive product. I know most people already know this. Thanks again.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Have you used Meguiar's #7? How does it compare to the 3M Hand glaze?

    3M also has a special foam pad glaze (whoa, it's 30 bucks a quart) for dark colored cars. Does anyone know about this product.
  • jukeboxcarl2jukeboxcarl2 Member Posts: 35
    Yes I have used #7 and I think its equally as good. A while back I contacted Collinite, and I asked them what they recommended as a pre-wax cleaner since they did'nt have one for clear-coat paint. They told me 3M Imperial Hand Glaze was good to use; and I totally agree. I have'nt tried the pad glaze; but 3M seems to put out a very good product no matter what it is. Tape,sandpaper,etc.So far 3M products and Collinite products have performed better than other products I've tried. In the last 20 years I've tried almost everything on the shelves including professional products such as PRO,Auto Magic,McGuires pro series,Acrylic-Teflon,Cargroom,Liquid Glass,and many others.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Here's another question for you guys:
    I washed my car last night, but it was getting dark, so I was unable to wax. My question is, am I able to wax the car today w/out washing it again? Should I go over the car w/ some sort of cleaning product or can I just get home and then wax?
    Thanks again,

    Pro_fan
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I do this all the time. Just wipe down your car with a damp towel to remove any surface crud that may have collected.

    I use a spray bottle with water and a dry cotton towel. If you need a little more help you can always rinse off the car and dry.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Don't take chances with a black car. Either use a quick detailer or rewash it to make sure the surface is completely clean. If you don't it will scratch.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Thanks for the advice Bret and Ray. I'll be sure to give it the once over and then wax away.
    This may sound like a dumb question, but do you wax headlights? For that matter, what can/can't you wax? I only had time to do my hood and roof last week, but I want to do a thorough job this time. Thanks again guys!

    Pro_fan
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    on painted surfaces. Don't put it on rubber, vinyl or plastic. It has worked well on wheels as well. They have a painted clear coat quite often. I have no idea about glass.

    I hope your protege is as fun to drive as my Mazda MX-6

    Zoom Zoom is definitely true
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Ray thanks for the prompt response. My Pro is definitely fun to drive! Sure it's an economy car, but man can it go! What's your MX-6 like (color, engine, year, etc)? Have fun zoom zooming in it!!

    Regards,
    Pro_fan
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    is Blaze Red, 1991 2.2 liter 4 banger with a 5 speed. I can get up to 80 and not even know it. Gets 34 MPG on the road. It is really fun to drive. See my review today on www.carreview.com then go to automobiles and M for Mazda.

    Back on topic however, this red is the one that I want a more durable coat on for winter since when I got the car it was more pinkish white than red. In about 3 weeks when my touch up paint has set I'm going to try the 3M hand glaze, and 3M Perfect-it show car wax.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I've wiped down my car a million times with misted water but it is prolly best to use a quick detailer or do a complete wash. Just to be safe.

    I prefer waxing on as clean a car as I can and some quick detailer products have silicone or other stuff in them that sometimes gets in the way of the product I'm applying. For me it's easiest to use my 'sperience but Ray's advice is safer.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    This is another one of those judgement calls. I used to wax my headlights all the time. Most newer cars have headlights made of polycarbonite plastic and are super strong. As long as the wax you're using is not too abrasive I think it's OK. My current car has glass headlights and headlight washer/wipers. I use Rain-X on them and the foglights to keep them clean.

    I also used to wax my windshield. Great for keeping bug stuff to a minimum. But I lived in So Cal where we didn't get much rain. I even used to remove my wipers to improve vision and looks. But most everyone in the US and Great White North needs to keep wipers on their car year round. If you want windshield protection use Rain-X.

    What else can you wax? Some things are aluminum running boards, most any kind of wheel, chrome exhaust tips, metal roof racks, things like that. If it's texture plastic, don't wax. If it's rubber, don't wax.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Member Posts: 2,021
    I was at my local Sam's Club today and found a new product called the sheepskin pro mitt. They come two per pack and are $8.75.

    The cool thing about it is they have a removeable rubber glove attached inside the mitt with Velcro. Slide it on your hand, wash your car, and when you're done remove the glove and rinse the mitt.

    Ths is awesome for folks hand washing cars during the winter. If you've never lived someplace cold and washed your car by hand it's quite frosty and unfun. As long as you don't fully immerse the mitt you'll never get wet. A nice product at a great price.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    The Meguiars #10 Plastic Polish does a real nice job on the headlights. Anyway thats on one of your hated Sentra SE's.

    Later
  • elantra00elantra00 Member Posts: 225
    Well, I have a floor cabinet full of car care supplies. For my 2000 Black Hyundai Elantra, Meguiars works the best. I use step 2 and 3 of the Deep Crystal system (No need for step 1...car is too new yet) It comes out great with that deep wet shine. I use Armor all paint protectant in between waxes to give it that just waxed look with no build-up. Now for my 1996 Jeep Cherokee, I use a clay bar. I first strip off all the wax with dawn or Palmolive. Then I use Mother's California Clay bar system. Takes up all acid rain damage. I then put on (its the "Z" word, but forbidden in this forum ;) ). Now, the car feels like glass and shines unbelievably...better then new cars! But as far as Store products, Mothers or Meguiars is among the best.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Hate Sentras? When did I ever say that? I don't recall but perhaps some of my comrades over in the Protege Sedans board have expressed a distaste for the rear styling of the new Sentras. However, I really don't recall ever personally saying anything negative about the Sentra. Please find the quote if I did say that and I will gladly eat my words.

    Bret, you can wax the windshield? Might try that some time....
    Thanks again all.

    Pro_fan
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    just kiddin' When I was looking at cars-I narrowed it down to two-Sentra and Protege. The wife liked the seats better than those of the Protege otherwise I might have a Protege now.

    Later
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    That's cool. I just didn't want to be misquoted in any way. Hard to tell if people are joking on a message board!! Your wife must have been looking at the fron seats only as the Pro has more space in the rear. Or were you talking solely about material? At any rate, the market in the economy compact car market is pretty tight and it's pretty hard to go wrong with any make.

    But back to the wax...I waxed my car the other day, but I had to leave immediately after I finished. I didn't even have a second to see how good it looked! I won't be able to evaluate the job I did for at least another day (I'm away from home) and by the time I get back, it'll be covered in dust and assorted crap! Guess I'll have to use some detailing spray....
    BTW, I'm using merguiar's cleaner wax. If I like the shine and durability I'll probably stick with it...If not, I'm gonna switch immediately.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    It was really the comfort of the **front** seats. And yes she (wife) was not happy wi the the rear room of the Sentra. But if you want decent performance and good economy in under $17000. Then your choices are limited. Anyway-as far as the windshield goes-do you use rainex? Once youy get into using it every couple of weeks it does a good job. I used to use it but got tired of the haze. Someone on this board told me you had to wipe the hell out of it to get rid of it. That was my problem.

    Later
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Nope don't use it. Only reason I was aksing about wax on the windshield was b/c Bret had said something about it and I had never heard of doing that before.
    I was thinking of doing a test though...just a little wax in one corner and rain-x in another. Then see how they hold up. Anyway, that's for later.

    Regards,

    Pro_fan
  • topgun7topgun7 Member Posts: 412
    Anyone has suggestion of a good web site for the car care product that were mentioned in this board. I am in S.F bay area. Today, I went to kragen and Walmart and they only stock very limited wax (mostly turtle), viynl protectant etc. Thanks
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Don't forget


    http://autobarn.com/

  • praygaprayga Member Posts: 3
    I parked my brand new white Grandam GT under a pretty old tree and some yellow-green fluid got on my car twice. The 1st time I washed it with water then "Turtle Car Wash" and the paint looked OK. I didn't wax it because it's a new car and Turtle Wash label said it wouldn't strip existing wax. A few days later the 2nd time I washed same way but the yellow mark didn't go. Then I tried Bug Remover, dish detergent, Eagle Cleaner/wax, just no use. Does anyone know a magic thing to remove this mark? I didn't scratch very hard because I was afraid of hurting the paint.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    From what I've read in this forum, a clay bar should be able to take that tree sap off fairly easily. Also, you should probably re-wax wherever you used the dish detergent because THAT will strip the wax off with ease. So try a clay bar.
    As I understand it, all you do is spray a lubricant of some sort down (usually like quick detailer of something) and run the clay bar lightly over the contaminated area. I've never tried it, but I'm sure others could tell you how it worked for them. Hope this helps you.

    Regards,

    Protege_fan
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
  • kourykoury Member Posts: 225
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    to remove wax from black trim was right on. Its unbelievable.
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    If anybody is looking for towels, overstock.com has Royal Velvet 100% cotton bath towels for 11.32 each.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Is the PB applied when the wax is still fresh, or can it be applied later on? I just bought some Mother's Back to Black. I heard that this works well. Wouldn't have to worry about squirrels trying to eat my trim either! :)
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    This stuff was on for years . It is my son's car. It has those plastic/rubber door handles that were 50% white from wax. Its truly amazing.
    Take the Mother's back., I have some-its not in the same league with peanut butter. I used the "Jiff" extra crunchy. That was all I had. Would recommend the Creamy.
This discussion has been closed.