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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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It it is a smooth surface. Treated the painted black trim as any other painted surface. I have a Mazda that responded well to this treatment. Your car will thank you. I generally don't wax the flat black paint like that found on windshield wiper mounts, and repaint it when the finish gets bad.
Specialized car wash soap is necessary between wax coats. My personal preference is Meguiars Gold Class Car Shampoo. In the spring you can get a large bottle for a pretty good price. This soap makes a well maintained finish pop. Really makes it look good. I also use Kitt Car Wash with Carnauba regularly. Other's I've used in the past that seem to work well are Turtle Wax Emerald wash, Blue Coral, Westley's. Probably just about any car wash will do a good job. They are designed to clean without stripping the wax.
What I have found is that it's very important to use the best quality bonnet available and they've got to be extremely clean.
Many of the terry bonnets in stores are poor quality right out of the package and get worse with use.
Some of the buffer mfr's sell or distribute bonnets:
http://www.gem-industries.com/main.html
http://www.hescoinc.com
http://www.nealsharbor.com/wax.html
Hope these help. BTW, what product are you using that's creating these swirls?
It it is a smooth surface. Treated the painted black trim as any other painted surface. I have a Mazda that responded well to this treatment. Your car will thank you. I generally don't wax the flat black paint like that found on windshield wiper mounts, and repaint it when the finish gets bad.
Specialized car wash soap is necessary between wax coats. My personal preference is Meguiars Gold Class Car Shampoo. In the spring you can get a large bottle for a pretty good price. This soap makes a well maintained finish pop. Really makes it look good. I also use Kitt Car Wash with Carnauba regularly. Gives a good shine, but I don't really any special wax ability. Other's I've used in the past that seem to work well are Turtle Wax Emerald wash, Blue Coral, Westley's. Probably just about any car wash will do a good job. They are designed to clean without stripping the wax.
I personally use Meguiars wax because I am pleased with the shine, cost, and ease of use. Plus I like the company. They seem concerned with making a good product, and have reasonable/believable tips for making your paint look its best. I don't begrudge anyone their polymers, but I just think that you should consider more than its long-term beading ability. At the worst, you'd have to apply it as often as wax...
Even if you don't like Meguiars, they have an informative clinic on swirl marks on their website. Check out www. meguiars.com and then click on "clinics". The biggest thing to prevent them is to use clean, quality towels and applicators, just as others have said.
The car sits outside in the Oklahoma sun and ice year round. I have purchased a bottle of Meguiars' Body Scrub and would like to apply this prior to a coat of #26. The car's finish isn't in horrible shape, but it does need some help.
Has anyone had experience with this product?? In the future, would I use the Body Scrub prior to each wax job, or should I use it every other time?? Every third wax job?? Also, I have a '02 Protege5 with a good coat of #26 on it. Is this type of Body Scrub used for semi-neglected cars only and not my new car??
As always, your thoughts are appreciated.
Meguiars cleaner/Wax is a great product. Don't feel you need to stop using it if you like it. You might try polishing the car first if you want some extra shine. If the paint is nice and smooth, the body scrub won't shine it up much. It is mainly to remove bonded contaminants. If your paint needs the scrub, go for it. After that, you might start using polish before the waxing if you want to.
Any of you polymer fans ever try Meguiars Polymer Sealant (#20)? Also, anyone know if Medallion Premium Paint Protection is a polymer based product? I like the shine from Gold Class Wax, but wouldn't mind checking out the Medallion if it provided similar results but lasted longer.
Personally I think it's best to start with something mild and less abrasive. If that doesn't work then escalate the aggressiveness of the product. I'd suggest starting with Meguiar's Swirl Mark Remover 2.0 (newest version of Meguiar's #9 SMR). Or try 3M's Finesse-It II polish available at NAPA and other auto parts stores. The 3M product is a bit more aggressive than the Meguiar's 2.0.
If you want to stay all Meguiar's products then consider this system:
Step #1 - Clean paint with paint cleaning clay. I don't care for Meguiar's clay (too soft for me) but Mothers, Clay Magic, and Eagle One are all good choices for clay. This will remove the surface crud you can feel on the paint.
Step #2 - Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #2 Fine Cut Cleaner (if you feel your paint job needs some serious cleaning)
Step #3 - Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Mark Remover 2.0 which will remove the swirls you put in with the #2.
Step #4 - Meguiar's #26 paste or whatever non-abrasive wax you prefer.
If you do this killer detail you only should need the #2 once per year and can do the clay, #9 and #26 2-3 time per year.
The Meguiar's products in the burgundy-colored bottles are their mass-market consumer line. They're OK for the person who wants a simple product that doesn't cost too much. If you want better results and product performance you need to step up to meguiar's Mirror Glaze professional products in the tan bottles. Many auto parts stores carry them as do auto paint stores. Once you start using the Mirror Glaze products you'll want to trash the Cleaner/Wax stuff as the MG line provides much better results.
rjs- I haven't used #20 but I think Mr. Detailer has. I've heard some nice things about it but I've also heard that products like Klasse, Blackfire, and Zaino outperform it. Medallion is a polymer product (no carnauba, IIRC). The difference between Medallion and Gold Class is that Medallion is designed to last a very long time where GC is designed to provide a very high gloss at the expense of durability. I think Medallion is the best one-step store bought product I've ever used but the paint has to be in very good condition as Medallion has a very mild chemical cleaner in it.
But I threw away my bottle. Why? because once you get the finish restored if it's protected you don't need it.
It did NOT take the place of a clay bar in my experience. On 2 cars with neglected finished I used a Meguiar's Swirl Removal and Surface Prep, then the Body Scrub. On the red oxydized finish the red really came off with the Body Scrub. More so that the Surface Prep with a natural abrasive. When I was finished it was still a rough surface. The next spring I used a clay bar and the finish is now glassy smooth.
I wouldn't use the Body Scrup on a new finish, use #7 Glace and #26 Hard Yellow for a durable finish. And, nothing will make the car as smooth as a clay bar.
The body scrub is certainly harsher than the Swirl Removal and Surface Prep (I assume this is the Gold Class product that they don't offer anymore). The SR&SP was supposed to be a polish with some light cleaner in it. I would think you should have applied them in the opposite order (scrub then SR&SP) I have used SR&SP without much success. I wonder if I got a bad bottle of it, though, as it applies funny and it is almost impossible to wipe off (maybe it was stored in the sun or something before I bought it).
Good call on pointing out that the paint on that Eclipse doesn't sound too neglected. I was going to point that out, but got caught up in explaining what the body scrub is supposed to do. I have to say, I had a Corvette that was kept outside for 4 years, and I never felt the need to use a cleaner or clay bar on it. I washed it all the time and waxed it all the time with Gold Class wax (about once a month). The finish never was rough after a washing. I think if you keep the paint clean and protected, the gentle cleaners in polish and wax will do just fine.
bretfraz: Thanks for the info on the #20 and the Medallion. I seem to be a sucker for the Gold Class emblem, even though I keep thinking I should switch over to #7 and Medallion wax. The swirl removal clinic on Meguiars even mentions that #7 will get rid of (or maybe hide) light swirl marks (which are all I ever get).
dave
#20 is also good for clear-coated rims too!!
I'm still not sure what to do; it's ultimately my call I guess. If the paint is in decent shape, would it be best to use the #7 polish followed by a coat of #26?? What will the harm be (if any) in using the Body Scrub if my Eclipse really doesn't need it??
I used the #26 on my '02 Protege5 and loved it and have contemplated purchasing a bottle of #7 polish. Would I use the polish everytime I waxed my car?? Unfortunately I cannot comment on other products as I an still new to this "serious" detailing business.
WESTY
With ADC, I like the 3m Imperial Hand glaze, and use it with a machine regularly. It seems to give a slightly deeper shine. Both Meguiars #7 and Imperial Hand Glaze are good Products. On your newer finish there is a Milder 3m polish called Perfect_It Swirl Remover and Foam Pad polish, or some other absurdly long name. It must be used by machine, but i really liked the results. Choose the dard for reds, blacks, or other rich colors. choose the light for silvers, golds, and other medium, or light colors.
What sort of interior cleaners do people use/recommend? I have been using Meguiars Gold Class interior something or other. I like that it is non-greasy and doesn't create an unnatural shine, but it doesn't smell that great. It smells chemically. Also, what happens if interior products get on wood trim? I always make sure to wipe it off immediately, but you never know when you'll miss something.
What do people use on real wood trim? My owners manual recommends water, but there has to be something better than that...
I've never tried any of those clay products. Can the clay be used more than once or does it get tossed after use?
Instead of water for a wood finish I recommend Murphy's Oil Soap. I even wash furniture if the little ones have gotten some type of sugar coating on it.
Weather here in the ATL has been pretty good this winter so I've been able to keep the car clean and get on a few coats of Souveran here and there. The Blackfire underneath has been holding up really well so I haven't really needed to wax, just been doing it for the added depth and slickness more than anything.
Maybe others will chime in with their winter detailing challenges.
400,000 w/o power? Man, that's unbelieveable! Hope everyone's back online. The power in my area went out during an ice storm 2 years ago. No juice for 2 days. Not fun.
On a lighter note, my winter detailing consists of washing the car with Zymol car wash, and detailing with Meguiar's Quik Detailer. The Gold Class wax coat seems to be holding up pretty well so far.
Brenda
Great for car detailing--was applying protectants outside as late as Thanksgiving week and could have done so even later, and have been washing the cars more regularly during the winter than anytime in the last ten years, at least. And they stay clean--for winter anyway.
Unfortunately all this warm, dry weather has at least one drawback---upcoming drought. They've already got warnings down in Pa., and if things continue like this NY can't be far behind.
In keeping with the topic. I have used #26 on two of my vehicles and have several coats on them. I used some Collinite Fleetwax over the #26 and also on the wheels (on one car). I'm trying to decide whether I want to either clay, remove the wax with Dawn, or just continue with a layer of #26 on one car and the Collinite on another. They both look really good and really neither of them is a garage queen. No garage.
As far as personal injury type lawsuits, I think is isn't so much that jurors think the huge award is reasonable, but rather they think if it happened to them, they'd want to cash in. I can't imagine any juror thought it was reasonable or fair to award some smoking idiot $3,000,000,000 because he got emphazema. Some dope was awarded $400,000,000 in a suit against GM because he got ejected from his 10+ year old car in an accident. He didn't even have a seatbelt on, but jurors still awarded it. Then again, maybe they do think it's fair. Most people don't feel they are responsible for what they do or for what happens to them. Society's response to anything bad seems to be "Why doesn't/didn't the Government do something?" as if you need the government to point out that smoking is unhealthy, or that wearing a seatbelt is a good idea...
The cigarette companies got busted for lying about their own reseach for years, and for marketing to prohibited audiences.
Not sure about the GM suit you reference.
dave
Sorry, off topic, but HOMEWORK might be a good alternative and parent(s) who know WHERE their kids are and with whom!
fastdriver
I wonder what they'll think when they'll be older and they'll buy a $25,000 car and someone scratches it carelessly.
You're assuming that many of them WILL be able to buy a $25,000 car!
Can't wait for the warmer weather to get here so I can wash my car myself instead of using the high pressure touchless wash or the wand wash! My car is clean, but not the way I want it to look.
fastdriver
I was wondering, what can be done to repair a keyed car? Is it usually expensive?
I agree that touchless and high pressure car washes aren't the same as doing it yourself. My friend, who had her van pinstriped, brought it to a high-pressure car wash. The pinstripe was broken off at one end and when she washed the car with the high pressure water gun, the pinstripe flew off!
EVEN up there they have those deafening sound systems that rattle the house windows? Maybe that's why they're not learning anything. They're all deaf!
A keyed car sounds like a job for a professional to me.
I like pinstripes on a car, but the painted on ones are much more reliable. Had that done on my 94 Infiniti J-30. I watched as the guy measured and taped the area and used his little roller bottles to do the job. Perfect. No problems.
fastdriver
Anyway, about the pinstripes, I've never heard of painted-on pinstripes. Did the guy put a clearcoat layer on top after?
I don't think he put clearcoat on. Did the 94 Infiniti J-30 even have clearcoat? He had all these little roller bottles in all different colors. He had a book, I think, of different designs. He was independent of the car dealer. They just hired him to paint on the pinstripes. Mine was two-tone. You might be able to see them in my pics at Geocities. Just click on my profile above or here-
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/7501/ and scroll past the 300M soap opera story to get to the Infinity pics as well as pics of my other cars. I wish I still had ALL these cars to drive except the 300M. That I just liked to LOOK at! ;-))
fastdriver
Nevermind. I must have had the pinstripe put on after I took these pics. I know I didn't have them on when I picked up the car. Sorry. If I find more pics of the Infinity, I'll post them after I get back from FL next week.
fastdriver
I'm gonna detail a friends car with it when I get around to it. I'll let everyone know how it works but so far its just average.
2)Is readily available in town...
3)Not real expensive and lasts...
4)Takes a licking and keeps on ticking
type of car wax protection...
Thanks for your reply brezfrat...
rjs-how is the Aurora 4.0 doing?
What have you found out with your products you got?
The vast majority of stuff you find in stores is produced and marketed to the masses whose expectations aren't that high. You can find a few diamonds in the rough but it can be tough digging. The auto appearance products industry sells and markets so much snake oil and stuff with mystical properties that you really need to know what you're doing or you'll get sucked in. At least this stuff doesn't cost too much; that Liquid Lustre cost me $20 for two bottles.
The best performing and/or longest lasting products are the boutique products like Klasse, P21S, Blackfire, Zaino, Pinnacle, maybe a couple others. None of these can be readily found at retail. The sale of these products are limited to those who are willing to spend the $$ and the time to make their cars look terrific. Many of them require a certain amount of expertise in order to get the best results.
But you can get very nice results with products bought in stores. Technique matters much more than product here. Brands like Meguiar's, 3M, Eagle One and Mothers make good products that are fairly easy to use and can be found at retail (if you're willing to search a little bit). Keep in mind that you'l still need to use several products and multiple applications to get the best shine and longest protection out of them.
Aurora5000: The Aurora is doing great, how's yours doing? What have you been using on it? I will be trying out a combination of Meguiars Medallion paint cleaner (to get out some very light swirls from the dealer) followed by their #7 and then Medallion Paint Protection. I always used Gold Class before, so I will post my impressions of this new combo. Hopefully this weekend will warm up a bit.