Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

bretfraz · May 2002

Here are a couple suggestions I culled from various websites:

These guys have most everything,

Northern Shield Protective Coatings

827 Danforth Place

Burlington, Ontario

L7T-ISI

905-522-7343

Canada Only-800-913-9299

E-mail nspc@attcanada.net

Ask for David

Also check out UAP/NAPA stores

Don't forget to consider the many online retailers. Perhaps ask http://www.autobarn.com , http://www.autodetail.com , or http://www.autogeek.net .

Finally, you may want to contact the mfr's directly and ask if they have dealers in your province.

Hope this helps.

venanzik · May 2002

First: Does anyone know how long a "clay bar" can be used?
Second: what is the best product for the plastic on the outside of a vehicle. I have a jeep grand cherokee laredo that has the lower half of the vehicle covered in a gray plastic (unpainted). any recommendations on protectant that will not discolor when they wear off?

mrdetailer · May 2002

Typically when you fold it over and you can't find a clean surface it should be thrown away. If it is dropped it should be thrown away. After the initial clay bar it usually lasts 2 cars for me.

My Mazda has Gray trim. Eagle One Wet Tire Gel works really well as does Meguiars Trim protectant. But I don't know of a product like that that doesn't give a richer appearance when applied. But the Eagle one is so easy to apply even on damaged surfaces, it can be fixed easily if washed off. I apply Eagle One about once a month.

aurora5000 · May 2002

Hi, I have a new 2002 car. Is it a good idea to clay a new car? What is a great polish? What is a great wax? I have thought about Klasse and Pinnacle products or is there something at the local auto parts stores that will work great? Thanks in advance, Steve

canc · May 2002

Thanks for your help.

bretfraz · May 2002

I agree with Mr. D on both counts. I know exactly what you're talking about and have used vinyl & rubber protectants on JGC's. The cladding looks great after treatment. I recommend using an applicator (foam or cotton) to apply the product instead of spraying it directly on the cladding. Less mess and no overspray.

Also when you wax the paint, put some masking tape on the cladding where it meets the sheet metal. If you get wax on the cladding by mistake you'll spend an eternity getting it out of the textured plastic. Just a little tip from someone who's made that mistake a time or two. :-)

mrdetailer · May 2002

I just use the Eagle One Wet Gel on the trim before I wax. Any wax wipes immediately without leaving a stain. Wife thinks I'm fanatic, so anyting to save time helps.

specialm · May 2002

Good ideas on the masking tape and the Eagle One Wet Gel.

In which direction should clays be rubbed on paint? Circular or sraight back and forth?

mrdetailer · May 2002

If the car is not mirror smooth to the touch I would use the clay bar. I usually use both circular and back and forth motions for complete coverage. You probably have microscopic iron filings from train rails on your car finish that can only be safely removed by clay.

If you are using Klasse, you probably would not want to use a glaze unless they recommend it. Pinnacle is a Carnauba type and a glaze would be good. Both brands of "wax" are considered very good. It's down, but Pinnacle had the top performing natural wax in both shine and durability. Klasse was also listed as very good if both products were used, the all in one, and sealant.

bretfraz · May 2002

Use it in a back-and-forth pattern. Same with applying waxes and polishes.

specialm · May 2002

Now and in the future--- Thanks for your advice!

psalms · May 2002

Does anyone know where I can get Blue Poly car wax? I just bought a new civic and this Texas sun is going to ruin the shine for sure. Blue Poly (and a car cover)worked well for my 13 yr old Mazda. I have not been able to find it in stores.

Thanks.

psalms

bretfraz · May 2002

What I found was that Blue Coral is now owned by Pennzoil-Quaker State. If you go to their website they might have a dealer list. If not you can always ask them for a local dealer.

Before you do that look at the MSDS of Blue Poly. Just for grins.

lukjack · May 2002

What is MSDS? I once had my car detailed and they said they used a professional blue coral wax. It was the most unbelievable beading I have ever seen. I could never find that wax again. Psalms- Is that what Blue poly is? The professional grade blue coral wax? I would like to try it agian. Thanks, let me know if you find where to get it.

protege_fan · May 2002

Is Material Safety Data Sheet..it contains information like what the chemical is made of, effects on humans, first-aid for exposure, etc, etc.

adc100 · May 2002

a long time ago. It was really good stuff. Not sure why I stopped using it. I think it is the same one which was hyped on the infomercials and had an ingredient known as "Fomulan" or something like that.

canc · May 2002

I bought the Meguiar's Clay Bar and Quik Detailer kit a few months ago so that I could eventually apply the clay bar, but I haven't really figured out how to use it. I know, it's not rocket science, but according to recent posts here, am I supposed to rub it on the surface like a rag? I was only gliding it on the surface and it wasn't doing anything.

pjyoung · May 2002

I think the stuff you're thinking about was called "autofom" and contained "Fomblan". I do think they said that it was made by Blue Coral. As I recall, they ran a series of infomercials with Dennis Weaver, although I found it in WalMart. I tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good job - easy to apply and decent shine. I don't recall how durable it was though. I remember that Blue Coral was used by Cadillac dealers way back in the mid 70's, and it had a reputation of being rather difficult for the average guy to apply, unless you had a buffer.

aurora5000 · May 2002

Thanks Mr.Detailer and bretfraz !!!!!!

mrdetailer · May 2002

Flatten it into a pancake, spray a log of lubricant. You should not feel any tension, but after a while the clay should be getting dirty. Fold it in until you get a clean surface. Work about 18 inches at a time. Wipe, see if smooth, if not repeat.

If I remember right your vehicle is pretty new and if you garage it all the time you may not have too many pollutants.

canc · May 2002

You have a remarkable memory! Yes, I do keep it garaged, but I've noticed a few pollutants around the rear area. Can I clay bar right on top of a waxed part, or do I have to strip it first with Dawn soap?

specialm · May 2002

Well, I finally had a chance to use my clay bar kit this weekend and I have to say - I really like it! It took a little getting used to but once I did I moved right along pretty quickly. I used it on my Jeep which was in real need and the paint is as smooth as silk now. All I had time to do was the clay operation but will be applying some NuFinish by next weekend. I'm gonna use the NuFinish because I still have 1/2 a bottle left. I've also got some Meguiars products which I bought awhile ago that I'll try on one of my other cars. Once I clay them that is!

Thanks for all the advice.

psalms · May 2002

Bretfraz, are Blue Poly and Blue Coral the same wax? What in MSDS is in Blue Poly?

psalms

tntitan · May 2002

I have been waiting for a decent day to try to wash, clay, polish, and wax the car but our weather has been so rainy and humid that I can't find a day when I have the time to do it all. Is it o.k. to wash and clay - then wait a few days and rewash, polish and wax?

I got all fired up reading this thread and ordered some Erase clay, Imperial Hand Glaze and Collonite wax and still haven't had time to get it all done. It looks like I will have to give up golf one day and just go for it.

donl68 · May 2002

I cannot find another topic for this question and there are some very knowledgeable people here so..... I have tried a spray cleaner for my aluminum wheels and it worked ok. I tried some Eagle One stuff. The wheels in question still have some discoloration on them. It seems like they could just be scrubbed with something to get the wheels totally clean. Does anyone know what can be done, some sort of polish maybe? I don't know what to use to get the wheels looking brand new again. Oh, they are 1999(old body style) 7 spoke aluminum VW Jetta wheels. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!

venanzik · May 2002

This past saturday i washed (dawn), clayed, and waxed my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and used Mothers Back to Black for the lower half of the vehicle which is covered in plastic. everything looks great. thanks for the help for all past answered questions.

canc · May 2002

I don't think it's a great idea to have any kind of scrubbing agent on your wheels, as it's likely to damage the clearcoat. What do you mean by discoloration?

If anything, try getting an aluminium polish such as "Mother's Aluminium Mag Polish". It comes in a small (red!) can, and it might work for you.

donl68 · May 2002

The spray cleaner did not make the wheels shiny and like new. There is still 'stuff' on the wheels and it seems like it would come of with scrubbing/wiping or polish or something. I simply don't know what sort of polish to use because when you go to the store it seems like there are 100s of polishes for 100s of types of wheels and its intimidating if you are unsure of exactly what to use. Sort of like shopping for shampoo. Too many choices!

I have seen the Mothers Aluminum Mag Polish but then I was thinking that my wheels don't really fit my description of 'Mags'. I thought Mags were the giant silvery wheels, more chrome type wheels. Perhaps I am over-analyzing, but I really don't want to mess up my wheels. I just would like to know a good polish to clean what the spray cleaners leave behind.

Canc, thanks for responding, I appreciate it. I know this board is about waxes but I don't know where else to go for help.

mrdetailer · May 2002

Certainly the discussion about interior cleaners, clay bars, and glaze should prove that.

Ask away.

mrdetailer · May 2002

Here's my personal take.

I am completely comfortable with a clay bar and glaze in one day, then waxing later. Getting the very smooth surface and the extra nourishing oils in the paint right away should be fine for at least a week.

If you're just going to use a clay bar, I would use Meguiar's Quick Detailer as your lubricant It has a tiny bit of wax in it and may help. The problem I see with just a clay bar (experience here) is that if it rains water spots may appear that require claying again to remove. Maybe your rain doesn't leave the stains mine does. Lots of dust and salt from the desert get into our rain before it hits the mountains and drops its load.

bretfraz · May 2002

Blue Poly is made by Blue Coral who is owned by Pennzoil-Quaker State. Here's a link to BC's website that describes their products (poorly, I might add): http://www.bluecoral.com/exterior_frame_link.htm

As for the MSDS of Blue Poly, I only mentioned it so those who are interested in it can see some of the ingredients. Here's the link to P-QS MSDS files:

http://www.pennzoil-quakerstate.com/techdata/l7_msds_fs.htm

bretfraz · May 2002

I have an idea of what your wheels look like. I'm pretty positive that they are painted silver then clearcoated. So cleaning them is alot like cleaning the paint.

You said you used an Eagle One cleaner? Was it A2Z wheel cleaner? If so, that stuff is pretty strong and will remove a good amount of wheel crud but not 100%.

If the crud you're talking about is black then its disc brake dust. That stuff can cause some real problems if not cleaned completely. Some types of pad dust can become acidic if mixed with water and etch the wheels. So you'll want to get this stuff off ASAP.

First, try rubbing the discolored areas with your finger. Does it come off that way? If so use a soaped up soft cloth and scrub lightly to remove. You can also try using a soft bristled brush to scrub hard to reach spots. When
I clean dirty wheels (like I did today) I sometimes use 2 or 3 different brushes to get them totally clean.

If there is still discoloration after cleaning then try applying some polish to the area. I assume you have some wax/polish around. Sometimes a little aggressive polishing will remove stains and spots. Experiment a little.

If the discoloration still remains after all that then it's possible the clearcoat or paint on it is damaged. Kinda hard for me to say without seeing it but it does happen.

Good luck, let us know how things go.

donl68 · May 2002

I used Eagle One Aluminum Wash & Cleaner, not the A2Z. I followed the instructions and used a wheel brush on the wheels after spraying. It did remove a LOT of crud. Since I had read on here that one should wax wheels, I wanted to get them as clean as possible before waxing. Thats why I thought some polish would get them really clean before I waxed.

The discolored areas do not come off on my finger when I rub it. Canc recommended Mothers Aluminum Mag Polish, is that the stuff to use? Also, what wax is good for wheels?

Thank you.

bretfraz · May 2002

That Eagle One cleaner is pretty mild so it may need several applications but it sounds like you've done that.

If the crud isn't coming off by finger-rubbing that means it's prolly on there pretty good. The Mother's polish is very aggressive and not made for painted/clearcoated wheels like yours. Its more for chrome or polished wheels that have no clearcoating on them.

Do you have some car polish/wax that you use on the paint? Many of those products have cleaners in them to remove swirls and oxidation. That can work so give it a try on a spot and see what happens. Hopefully that's all the polishing you'll need.

As for maintenance and protection, whatever you use on the paint is OK for wheels.

adc100 · May 2002

Which Collinite did you buy?

phillyguy3 · May 2002

My Uncle just bought a 91 Volvo with what was originally black bumpers and have now faded. I've been reading some comments , but I'm not sure which product(s) would work best and whether some are more permanent. Since he's in his 70's , I'll have to do it myself. Your input would be welcome.

tntitan · May 2002

mrdetailer - appreciate your input knowing that you are definitely one of the experts in my opinion. Hopefully I will only have to wait one day between claying and polishing and waxing. I have some Quik Detailer but was planning on using the Erazer lubricant that came with the Erazer clay bar. One of the knowledgeable posters in here had recommended this lubricant about a thousand posts back. I expect that either would work well.

adc100 - after reading all 1900 posts here and visiting several of the recommended websites for car care I decided on the Erazer Clay and Lubricant, 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, and the Collonite Marquis D'Elegance. I was going to get the Collonite Insulator Wax but thought I would try this first. My real debate was between the Collonite wax and Grand Blitz wax. Being one of the resident experts I figured you probably had some of this on a shelf somewhere already. LOL!

I hope to get this project done before the end of next weekend. I truly appreciate the core group of "experts" that are here to help out all of the beginners like myself that just want to learn how to take care of our cars.

The one product that I have already bought and used is the 303 Protectant. I love this stuff. It is wonderful on exterior plastic cladding, tires, wheels (repels brake dust), interior (probably better here than anything I have ever seen), and I have also used it on many things around the house like my spa cover, leather shoes, golf shoes (just wipe 'em clean), leather golf bag (repels dust just like in the car interior).

donl68 · May 2002

Thanks bretfraz. I'm wondering now if I should get some of the A2Z and see if that gets off more than the other stuff did. I have some Turtle Wax, I guess that will be ok for the wheels unless you can recommend something else.

mrdetailer · May 2002

Philly Guy -- Please don't kill me, but my subie has black bumpers that were really faded. I painted them. Held up for about 4 years, but will have to do it again this summer. They look really good if you do that. Very easy to do. Sand lightly, Wipe and clean again with a liquid sandpaper, Use a bumper black clear primer as a primary coat then use the bumper black paint about an hour later. These were completely black ones, and not a black trim on a bumper with another color.

A less drastic method is to try Eagle One wet Tire Gel, or Meguiar's Tire Gel (I prefer the satin finish) I wouldn't use Meguiar's trim gel. It is too light to retain a good finish for any neglected bummpers or trim. Repeat at least monthly more if it rains. (if only we could have that curse) Only takes about 10 minutes.

TnTitan. I really like Eraser lubricant for a clay bar. It also works well as a detailer. My personal opinion is that it's the quickest to apply, and has an excellent shine. I mentioned Meguiar's Quick Detailer because I know it contains a little bit of wax for some protection. I don't think Eraser has any. But if it's only one day I don't think you have much to worry about. Good Luck. Looks like you've made a good choice of products.

specialm · May 2002

I've been using 303 on my boat for several years and have to say I really like it! My boat has red sides and they faded to a pinkish color in the sun. Every year i would break my back trying to hand rub the gelcoat in an attempt to bring the red back. Then one day someone mentioned 303 to me so I gave it a try. It took only 20 minutes to do and came out much better looking. I follow up with a second coat the next day. After that it's just an occasional coat to spruce it up.

britton2 · May 2002

We used to have a '87 Volvo and it had the black bumpers - I used Mother's Back to Black and it worked very well - try it.

tntitan · May 2002

Any advice from you detailing fanatics on this would be appreciated. I see Plexus, Wurth, Eagle, Clear Vision, etc. all have amonia free products. Is one better or a better value than another? Easier to use? Thanks.

bretfraz · May 2002

I don't have tinted windows (never have) so I did a little digging. If I had tinted windows I'd clean them with Plexus and a microfiber towel. Plexus cleans and polishes plastic and leaves a protective coating; I've used it to clean plastic convertible windows and it's great stuff.

A Microfiber towel is so soft that it won't scratch the tint. So that combo I'm sure would work well. Plexus is an aerosol so I can't imagine easier usage.

I'm sure others will chime in with their comments. Hope this helps.

canc · May 2002

If you want to play it on the safe side, just clean them with water and a clean cloth. If they're really dirty, a bit of soap mixed in with your water will do. The Plexus/microfiber towel combination sounds great though, but Plexus isn't readily available, at least where I live. If you can get Plexus, you can't go wrong with that, but it'll cost you more than the water and rag.

tntitan · May 2002

Easy to order anything online but I was really wondering if there are products like the Eagle One or something else that are almost as good and easily available at the local parts stores. Then I could count on about half the price and no shipping. Don't mind paying more for superior products but would rather use a really good product for a reasonable price.

britton2 · May 2002

I like Stoner's Invisible Glass - you can get it at Pep Boys for $3.49 a can - I am pretty sure it's safe for tinted windows -

lonewolf6 · May 2002

Eagle One 20/20 is safe for tinted windows..

canc · May 2002

as long as there's no ammonia in the formula.

tntitan · May 2002

but I was wondering if any of these easily available products are superior to another for actually cleaning the windows - particulary for the interior windows that get that vinyl film or whatever it is on them.

britton2 · May 2002

the answer to your question is YES - you can find excellent products at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc - I have completely stopped ordering "high-end" car care stuff from the online companies - not because they aren't good - they are - but I have found products just as good at my local store(s) - the only exception I can think of is paste wax - I don't think there is anything comparable to Pinnacle's Souveran wax - this cost about $69 and is not available in stores - but it is excellent -as far as detail sprays, car shampoo, wash mitts, window cleaner, wheel cleaner, vinyl cleaner/protectant, etc - I think the store-bought brands are just fine - Stoner's Invisible Glass is at Pep Boys and maybe Advance Auto Parts which we have here in good 'ole Tennessee - just my 2 cents!

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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