Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

mralan · January 2003

Well, I placed my order for AIO, SG, + Blitz wax for my new red Dodge truck.

I expect the SG to be difficult, but I'm expecting only to apply it once a year and keep it fresh with the Blitz.

tntitan · January 2003

The SG is not difficult at all.
1. Apply it thinly...this is critical because a little goes a looooooooong way.
2. Let it cure for a while...overnight in a garage is great...but at least for a couple of hours.
3. Buff with a damp microfiber towel first and then with a dry one.

No problem guaranteed.

Blitz is a great wax but it will stain trim and it a bit difficult to remove compared to S100. S100 for a topper IMHO is the only way to go. Nothing is easier to apply and remove and nothing is going to look much better either. S100 over the Klasse twins is outstanding.

mralan · January 2003

Thanks for the tips, tntitan.

Since my last post I've decided to go with P21S instead of the Blitz. Can't wait for the weather to cooperate!

mralan · January 2003

Anyone use this? Opinions please.

bretfraz · January 2003

Well, maybe 1.5 gallons but I do have a lot. Great QD for the price. Widely available. Highly recommended.

tntitan · January 2003

I think that the E1 Wet Wipe and Shine is the best overall consumer available quick detailer available. Very good value for the product. I also find this to be true about almost all of the Eagle One products.

stickking1 · January 2003

Hey everyone, I'm looking to pick up a couple new products for my Olds Aurora and would like some input. Technically, it's "Light Antelope", but I call it "gold" for short. I would say it is a medium color, not too light, not too dark. Anyway, I want to really bring out the curves on this baby and really like a deep, wet shine...I think it really shows off the designer's work. I've heard a lot of good things about Pinnacle, but would like to get a few tips from you guys on your favorite process to achieve that deep gloss. Time is not an issue here, I love working on this car. Thanks!

bretfraz · January 2003

stickking1, there's a lot to be discussed on how to make your car look world class. Instead of trying to post a huge list of tips and tricks what I'll offer are a few weblinks where you can get some of this info and let you decide what products and tools you need to get your car up to snuff:

First thing I suggest is buying this ebook at http://www.autopia-carcare.com . The first 8 chapters are free if you'd like to check them out but I think all 24 chapters are extremely valuable. Worth every penny of the $9.95

Read all the tips at http://www.properautocare.com . These guys sell many of the best products available including Pinnacle. They really know their stuff.

Have a look at http://www.tacscar.com and http://www.autodetail.com for more detailing tips and tricks.

This ought to keep you occupied for the next few days. ;-)

Happy reading.

atoews · January 2003

These towels work great,but there is a drawback. They are so absorbant that soap/detergent will not come out in the automatic washer rinse cycle.

I see two alternatives:
1) Separate towels that will be used with soap from those that won't in the washer and never get soap in towells targeted as "rinse" or "dry".

2) Rinse the soap out of the towels by hand. :-(

My experience makes me wonder if the phenomenon extends beyond soap. Specifically, perhaps anything that comes out of the towels in the wash cycle, is immediately reabsorbed in the spin cycle.

Anyone have an alternative suggestion?

noobie1 · January 2003

This is something that's likely been discussed here before. If so, it's a "detail" I've missed. So please indulge me this one time.
I recently did the first really thorough detailing of my truck. Small chips and scratches do a great job of collecting and holding polish and protectant residue. Given the medium gray color, they're quite prominent. Is there a product or technique I can use to make them easily disappear? I tried water and a tooth brush, but that's a pain, and it doesn't do a very good job.
BTW- I used 3M Swirl Mark Remover with a Porter Cable 7424 buffer and was a little disappointed. I was hoping to remove all the accumulated spider webbing. Two applications helped, but I calculate 4 or more would be required for a decent job. The truck, though, is a full size, extended cab, long bed with shell (honestly, it's like detailing the Queen Mary). Would anyone like to suggest some alternative product?,.... besides a mini-truck.

-David

mikeinmd · January 2003

mikeinmd · January 2003

I am new to this BB and serious car care, any advice appreciated. My situation: I have a new car (less than 60 days old), it is white diamond pearl (Acura) and looks metallic. I have a garage and use a second car to commute, for now.

  I have taken the following steps (in order) to protect the paint during the last 60 days:
1 treatment of P21S Gloss Enhancer
1 coat of P21S Contours Wax
2-3 coats of Blitz Wax
1 coat of P21S. From reading the BB, these seem to be good products and I lucked out by buying them. I was told the Blitz wax is longer lasting that the P21S, but the P21S gives a more show car shine.

   MY QUESTION: are their any additional steps I can take while the car is so new (has not really been dirty yet) to ensure I am off to a good/great start regarding the paint/exterior? I do not know about any glazes, etc. that can be applied over these waxes.
  I do not want to miss an initial opportunity allowed by a new car finish. I want to feel like I have done everything to get off to a good start/most protection available. This is my first new car (and I am 43). Thanks much for any suggestions! Mike

bretfraz · January 2003

To remove the residue from stone chips try 3M Adhesive, Wax, and Grease Remover. You can get it at Walmart or most any auto parts store. Ultimately your goal should be to repair the chips; I have the same problem so I know what you mean.

Re: the SMR - You've discovered that one product doesn't always do the job eventhough it would seem like it should. You'll need to expand your inventory of polishes and tools in order to get the job done. I have several different polishes and 8 different pads for my PC. It will take some practice and experimentation to find the best combo of pad and product in order to get the results you want.

What I'd recommend to expand your product choice:

Meguiar's Dual Action Cleaner Polish
3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound
P21S Gloss Enhancing Paint Cleanser

Those including your SMR should give you a good base to work from.

You didn't tell us what pads you have now but in general you should have 2-3 yellow cutting pads, 2-3 white polishing pads, one grey soft final polish pad and maybe one orange aggressive cut pad or a wool pad for serious work. Add pads as needed.

Hope this helps. Let us know if you have more questions.

bretfraz · January 2003

First, welcome to serious car care. Don't worry, there are lots of us here who are just as nuts as you are. Sounds like you have a great car and are using excellent products. That's a good start.

I laughed a little when I read about all that waxing you did. Man, you really killed it with all that P21S and Blitz....lol...... No worries, its all good. But consider going a little easier on the extreme wax application. P21S wax and Blitz do exactly the same job so there's no point in using both. If I had a choice I'd stick with the P21S - its that much better. Not to dis Blitz as I think its excellent but P21S is the superior choice.

Since the car is new it needs no serious polishing to remove swirls and whatnot. So your regimen was fine. The P21S GEPC is an excellent light polish and perfect prior to wax. If you are willing to polish & wax every 8 weeks or so then that may be all you need for awhile.

Since your car is coated in wax I'd recommend spending some time reading and learning about detailing. Here's a few places to check out:

http://www.properautocare.com - Terrific supplier of top quality products. Read their detailing tips.

http://www.autopia.org - The internet's home for the OCD car lover. I suggest joining the community and reading posts, especially the articles and archives. The amount of information there is amazing.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com - An e-book written by the owner of Autopia.org. As definitive a book on car detailing as you will ever find. After 20+ years of detailing I thought I knew a lot about the subject but I learned a good bit after reading the book. Best $9.95 you'll ever spend on the subject.

That should get you started. Welcome to the world of obsessive car care.

tntitan · January 2003

My $.02

Bretfraz is EXTREMELY knowledgeable. He does not have stubborn, biased opinions about certain products or product lines. He will try to give you his best advice based upon YOUR specific application. You would do well to pay attention to all advice you receive from him. I would definitely second his comments regarding the websites he referenced. Autopia will send you to another dimension. Spend time reading the e-book and a few days reviewing the Autopia discussions before spending much money. This will prevent you from buying products and then buying more products that do the same thing a little different.

mikeinmd · January 2003

Thanks for the new car/paint care info and the reference links for detailing.

Yes, I got a little carried away with the multiple layers of wax. It's hard to walk pass my new toy without grabbing a can of wax.
Maybe all the waxing will pay off in MPG

Thanks again!

koury · January 2003

My .02 cents as well...

Beware that there are folks on this board that are EXTEMELY biased against certain well-know and incredible products, such as Zaino.

Go over to the Zaino board if you want to broaden your horizons on great car care products.

ryoken · January 2003

I think they're not so much biased against Z as they are against the Z-zealots that respond to every other post that anything else sucks.

Personally, I slap Meguiar's Cleaner Wax on my car every few months and call it a day. I just want something to keep the birds from ruining the paint before I get a chance to wash it. Any wax is shiny enough for my tastes.

bretfraz · January 2003

I thought the rule here was "No Zaino Posts"? I'll bring post #2622 to the attention of the mods.

tmart · January 2003

Why slap it on "every few months" when you could slap it on every 6+ months and still have the same or better protection?

ryoken · January 2003

A "few" is generally 3 to 10. I don't plan on doing it more often than 6, unless it's obviously not beading up water.

mbdriver · January 2003

I agree with bret -- let's not get another flaming session started. Use whatever product suits you and enjoy the great advice provided here (and elsewhere).

beachnut · January 2003

Autopia will send you to another dimension

LOL! Yep, there's so much to read there that I don't even have to post, somebody's already asked my question a thousand times over! ;-)

Beachnut - not happy with Santa for not bringing him a PC

noobie1 · January 2003

Thanks for the speedy response.
Yep, I've got the whole kit from Classic; yellow, white, gray, sheepskin, micros, the works accept for the orange. I used the white with the SMR and finished with the gray, as per Classic's instructions, using Blackfire Protectant (really easy stuff). I'll follow your advice and stock up. And thanks for the tip on the chips and scratches.

-David

Mr_Shiftright · January 2003

Quite right. This is a "Zaino-Free Zone", so if the poster of #2623 would please delete his work at his own leisure that would be appreciated. The Zaino topics offer more than enough activity for discussing those products in detail.

thank you

Mrshiftright
Host

tmart · January 2003

I see nothing wrong with 2623. Appears to be from a non Z user. How was it "out of order"?

Mr_Shiftright · January 2003

Thanks. It should be #2622 that should be removed by the poster. The one with the word "Zaino" in it.

Thanks for bringing it to my attention!

shifty the host

bretfraz · January 2003

Go back to your post #2622. You will see two blue boxes, one saying "bookmark" and one saying "delete". Click on the delete box and you will be instructed as to how to delete your post. Please do so sooner rather than later. Thanks.

mbdriver · January 2003

Your delete instructions were "right on" and helpful -- except for the fourth sentence. Why the rush?

noobie1 · January 2003

Actually, I tried that stuff and wasn't all that impressed. Bought a hundred dollars worth. Don't think it lives up to the hype. Not bad though. Just takes too long, all that time between coats. With my Queen Mary, I'd have never finished. ........Oooops! Sorry.

-David

bretfraz · January 2003

The delete post process is quick and simple but you know how we get, sometimes other things come up and we forget to do things. I'd sure feel bad if Koury forgot to delete his post after being directed to do so by the forum mod.

div2 · January 2003

You wrote:
>I'd sure feel bad if Koury forgot to delete his post after being directed to do so by the forum mod.<
You KNOW he must seek Sal's dispensation first!

noobie1 · January 2003

What if koury IS Sal?

mbdriver · January 2003

The world might come to an end!!!!!

mookie14 · January 2003

i found out that i have some scratches on my hood from a bp car wash. they are not deep but a little i can see the white a little. what can i do about these body shop i hope not thanks.

bretfraz · January 2003

You might need to take it to a pro detailer unless you want to tackle these yourself. The plastic bristles scuffed the clearcoat. Some mild polishing by machine will make quick work of them.

And no more gas station car washes, please.......

canc · January 2003

Ok, I've been reading posts here for quite some time now, and I'm thinking about trying Klasse. I currently use Meguiar's Gold Class, and still very happy with it, but it's true that it doesn't last long, especially in the rough winters of Canada. Anyway, my color is diamond white pearl--would Klasse be a longer-lasting wax, with as much shine as Gold Class?

Thanks!

bretfraz · January 2003

No question in my mind that Klasse is superior to Gold Class in terms of appearance and protection. Gold Class isn't bad for a $10 product that can be bought anywhere but products like Klasse are on another level.

I think you'd prefer Klasse All In One (red bottle). Klasse also makes a product called Sealant Glaze (grey bottle) but it is more challenging to use and doesn't provide significantly more benefit. All In One includes a mild cleaning agent that Sealant Glaze does not, making its application very similar to Gold Class and other one-step products.

canc · January 2003

Can I ask you where you buy your Klasse products?

bretfraz · January 2003

I did some searching and and am unaware of a Canadian source for Klasse. There are a couple US dealers that will ship it to you.

Best one I know of is TACSCAR. Check them out at http://www.tacscar.com

Tim, the owner, is a great guy and his customer service is top notch. If you need additional detailing supplies consider ordering them from him when you place your Klasse order.

I have a little bit of Klasse and I get it free from friends.

Hope this helps.

mralan · February 2003

I've applied 2 coats of Klasse AIO and 3 coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze so far. My new red truck looks pretty good, but I'm not extremely impressed. Still planning on applying another coat of KSG then start using my P21S as weather permits.

tntitan · February 2003

Did you clay your car prior to applying the AIO? Brand new cars often have rail dust and other contaminants that need to be removed...preparation is the key. IMHO claying would do more good than the extra coat of AIO.

How long did you wait between SG applications? Did you apply it in a VERY VERY THIN layer?

If you did all of this then Klasse may not be the product for you. Whatever you decide, I assure you that claying your car will improve the appearance of any product.

If the truck is clean, you should be able to apply and remove the S100 in less than 45 minutes on a large truck.

bradlake1 · February 2003

Hello All:

I have swirls all over my allroad. Is it posssible to remove the swirls by hand with various swirl removing products or must a machine be used to remove the swirls? Also, if anyone knows of a competent "detailer" in the Atlanta area please post to the list.

TIA

mralan · February 2003

No, I sure didn't clay my new truck. I thought 2 coats of AIO would be more than enough for a new finish.

I'm not giving up ship yet. I'll make up my mind after applying a couple coats of P21S.

bretfraz · February 2003

You can remove swirls by hand instead of machine. It just takes a lot longer. Serious swirls, those that are more like scratches, really need machine help.

Generally speaking you'll need to use a slightly more aggressive product if working by hand as compared to working by machine. The product helps with the "bite" that is usually provided by a buffer and pad.

As for good detailers in tha ATL, I'm in Gwinnett and I do not know of anyone decent. I'll ask around. Where in the area are you?

bradlake1 · February 2003

Thanks for your reply. I am in Gwinnett, as well, Hwy 78 and Hwy 124 (Snellville area). There is so much detail info on various sites...I do not know what would be the best. I do not mind putting in the effort but I just want it to payoff.

bretfraz · February 2003

Were practically neighbors. I'm at 124 & Sugarloaf Pkwy. And I thought this internet thing was global....

First thing ya gotta do is decide what results you want and how much time, effort, and money you are willing to invest. Like others here I'm a true detailing nut and have invested a significant amount of $$ into products and tools and even more time and effort learning and practicing. Since you're willing to put in the effort you can develop a detailing "mission" and build a product inventory from it. All that's left is doing the work and learning the techniques. Which is the hard part, of course.....

I'm happy to help. Just LMK.

bradlake1 · February 2003

Thanks for the response. I have purchased mostly Meguiars produscts....Gold Class Wash,#20 sealer, Gold Class Wax, Detailer spray, Scratch-X and MF cloths. What I have come to learn is that I might have been better off getting Klasse AIO. Perhaps, I should use what I have before goint the Klasse route? Your thoughts?? I am now trying to decide if I need to invest in a PC and the appropriate accessories. My major concern is not letting my enthusiasm "screw-up" my paint finish. Perhaps I can send you some pics for your advice of what is needed?

bretfraz · February 2003

E-mail me at "bretfraz@excite.com"

Since you're so close spin by if ya like and I'll let ya borrow my PC for a test drive. I have lots of accessories and product to try as well.

I think what you have is fine for now but needs to be augmented with a polish or two.

If I can see the car in person it would be much better than looking at pics.

- - Bret - -

noobie1 · March 2003

Bretfraz; If I could invent a product that would treat exterior black vinyl and last longer than the next washing, that's what I'd name it. Come to think of it, it has a kinda familiar ring to it; The name might already be taken. At any rate, I've tried Armoural, Meguiar's Vinyl/Rubber Protectant, and that stuff marketed by that company we're not supposed to mention here, and I'm very suspicious that they all come out of the same tank; Same look, same smell, same endurance,....short, which brings up the next candidate: Meguiar's Endurance. As you probably already know it's intended for tires. They claim it lasts weeks instead of days (on tires). To test it for vinyl I thought I'd try it in an inconspicuous spot. If you or anyone else has a long lasting favorite please help cut this testing process short.

-David

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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