Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

bottgers · May 2006

...mentioned cleaning the interior glass. I have tried cleaning the glass with just about every glass cleaner available, water and vinegar, and even just water, but nothing leaves a strak-free clean. I'm beginning to wonder if a streak-free clean is possible.

Also, I tried out a new idea of mine the other day to see if it would work, and it works very well. I live in Dayton, OH and we have very hard water here. This causes bad water spotting on the vehicles when washing them. I came up with the idea of using my electric leaf blower to blow the water off the vehicle immediately after washing each section. The trick is not to let the washed portion sit for too long after it's washed before blowing it off. I will generally wash the hood, roof, and trunk lid, then rinse and blow. The leaf blower has so much pressure, it completely dries large areas in just seconds. When you wash other sections and you get the previously dried areas wet again, you simply blow them off again and it's done in a snap. This is much less time consuming than wiping the vehicle down after washing, and it also means you can wash your vehicle in the sun without any adverse results. I'm sure other people have thought of this idea, but I've never seen anyone mention it before so I thought I'd bring it up.

tmart · May 2006

For your interior, exterior too, glass try Sprayway. Does not streak. Fantastic stuff, but may be hard to find.

bottgers · May 2006

What company makes Sprayway? Never heard of it.

tmart · May 2006

It's made by Sprayway Inc. I first heard about it on the Z forum.

tallman1 · May 2006

I agree that Sprayway is great. I found it at Costco, of all places, but I think you had to buy a pack of 3 or 4. That's fine because I use it to clean the bathroom mirrors so I can keep a can everywhere.

No ammonia and it doesn't streak.

If you can't find it locally, I know that Top of the Line carries it.

andrelaplume · May 2006

I use Meguiars Cleaner Wax on my white 02 Camry. Mostly because, for some reason, splotchy dirt gets in the paint, mostly on the roof and hood and it won't wash off. The clear wax, with some rubbing removes it. I then usually coat with Nu Finish. Is this over kill? I notice pollen seems to stick to it. Is the cleaner wax alone enough? Also, it seems like the car does not shine as much as it should....perhaps from the NuFinsh over the cleaner wax? Some one said to dump the Nu Finish, use the cleaner wax then use the Meguiars NXT Spray Wax? What do you think....

We also just got a Pacific Blue Mettalic 2006 RAV. Is the NXT Spray wax a good choice. Nu Finish?

(We are not folks who enjoy spending hours on end cleaning, waxing, polishing etc...just looking for a simple to use decent wax)

lmacmil · May 2006

The blower idea has been mentioned before. Another, quieter option is a California water blade, i.e., squeegee. Doesn't get every last drop off but probably clears 80% in seconds and then you can dry the rest before the water spots form.

bretfraz · May 2006

I've heard about anti-static waxes for a long time but have never seen or heard of one actually working as advertised. Meguiar's used to make a wax called Medallion that was supposed to have some anti-static properties. I used to use it on my black Mustang and while it looked terrific, I don't recall it reducing or eliminating dust attraction.

I'll keep an eye out for that commercial but if someone finds out the name of the wax, please post it.

bretfraz · May 2006

I have a bottle of Turtle Wax ICE. The stuff appears to be little more than silicone oil and fragrance. There is no way I'm gonna apply it to my paint. I know it's a waste of $16.00 but it's going in the trash.

There's been a ton of talk about 5 Star Shine over the years but I haven't known too many people who have used it and tried to verify some of the claims. What I do know from research is the president of 5 Star Shine is a self-proclaimed marketing genius who has written books on guerilla-style marketing tactics and internet marketing strategies. Even if the product is decent, I'd rather support someone who is involved in and passionate about the car care products industry instead of someone who is selling something as a marketing exercise.

My 2 cents....

bottgers · May 2006

You're not even gonna try the Ice? Regardless of what you think it might be, I doubt Turtle Wax (or any automotive polish company for that matter) would produce a wax/polish that would harm your paint. I would at least give it a try before you toss it in the garbage. The worst that could possibly happen is that it wouldn't look good or last too long.

bretfraz · May 2006

While I'm sure it won't ruin my paint, I'd rather not mess with the stuff. I should have known it was some gimmick; a clear "wax" is impossible to produce and actually use wax in it. I've bought a lot of stupid impulse stuff lately and this was one of them. Cheaper than the $400 CD player, though.

94hawkskin · May 2006

I have a grey car as well. Here is my routine for a brand new car.

1) Wash with Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo

2) Dry with Micro fiber Towels

3) Wax with S100 from the Harley Davidson Store

My car looks great and it only takes about 1 1/2 hours to do so. The trick with S100 is to do the car in portions and wipe it off before it sits too long. It will come off very easy, last a long time and not attract much dust. It also doesn't stain plastic trim.

manaraki · May 2006

Thank you hawkskin.

Here is what is did today:

1)Washed with Meguiar's Deep Crystal Car Wash

2)Dried with Microfiber Towels

Here is a couple more questions, and I know they are dumb questions but I will ask anyway

How many towels do you use to dry your car? It seems after drying just the hood, the towel is soak and wet. Do you jus ring it out and continue, or do you have 3 or 4 available to dry?

Also, should you wax immediately or can you wait until the next day? The reason I ask is my intentions were to wax right away, but I had a family dinner and couldn't finish. Should I just wax tomorrow, or wash all over again and then wax.

Also, do you wash you microfiber towels after each use or just dry them in the dryer.

And finally, you mentioned S100. After reading quite a few reviews, this seems to be the best product to use. Is there different variations of S100, or do they just have one wax? Also, what is the best thing to apply it with and also to wipe it off? Thanks again

Thank you in advance for all your help (with the idiotic questions)

bottgers · May 2006

The problem with the squeegies is they only work well on flat surfaces. Today's vehicles are very round and shapely and the squeegies don't work well on curved surfaces. The leaf blower works well on all shapes.

andrelaplume · May 2006

I think this fourm sold me on the S100. Two questions. Is it suitable fr a brand new Car...we just got a RAV.

Second, I have used Meguiars Wax and clean, mostly to clean up my car. Can I now put the S100 right over it or must I Dawn the car first?

Thanks!

94hawkskin · May 2006

I would rewash the car as you don't want to be wiping dirt into the wax.

I usually use two towels to dry. One I use to get all of the big beads off and then I go back over with a dry towel for the rest.

S100 is my favorite product. There is only one variation of s100, but there is a P21S that is made by the same company and can be ordered online. My understanding of this is that S100 is marketed for motorcycles and P21S is marketed for cars and trucks and sells for double the price.

The only bad thing about the S100 is that the canister is small and hard to get a wax applier inside. I use microfiber wax application pads made by Meguiars to apply the wax and take it off with microfiber towels. Also, make sure you wax in the shade and do small sections at a time. I usually break the car into quarters.

I do wash the microfiber towels after each use and dry them in a dryer. I don't use fabric softener. I don't know why I just heard you shouldn't.

94hawkskin · May 2006

For brand new cars s100 works great because it doesn't have any abrasives in the wax. I don't know much about the Mequiars Wax and Clean but it sounds like it is some kind of cleaner wax and that means it will have abrasives in the wax to get out minor scratches and remove imperfections from the paint. For a new car stay away from these cleaner waxes. But for older cars abrasives are sometimes necessary.

I wouldn't dawn the car. I would just use some good car soap (Mequiars Gold Class Shampoo works great) and then dry and wax it.

I just use the S100 wax and nothing under or on top off it. It has now lasted for three months and I am going to rewax it this next weekend.

bretfraz · May 2006

I do wash the microfiber towels after each use and dry them in a dryer. I don't use fabric softener. I don't know why I just heard you shouldn't.

Just as a follow up, microfiber towels are extremely absorbent. The reason for this is their fibers are split to the point of several hundred thousand fibers per square inch. Microfiber threads are 100X finer than human hair. This design provides for incredible grabbing power to lift dust, dirt or grime off of most any surface.

Liquid fabric softeners or dryer sheets leave a coating on these threads, preventing them from grabbing the dirt and grime you're trying to clean. Yeah, softeners will make them feel soft but they'll ruin the towels performance.

Here are a few suggestions for microfiber maintenance:

1. Wash separately. The towels will grab lint and stuff from other items, especially those made of cotton, so its best to wash them by themselves.

2. Wash in cold water with mild soap, no bleach, no softeners, nothing else.

3. Either hang dry or dry on low tumble heat, no dryer sheet thingys.

If you only have a couple towels all this may be a hassle. It may be more convenient to hand-wash them in the sink and let them air dry. Either way, a little TLC will ensure your towels will perform at their best for a long time.

manaraki · May 2006

Thank you Bretfraz. One more question. Is the S100 that everyone speaks so highly of the Carnauba Paste Wax?? or is it something else that I am not seeing? Thank you!

andrelaplume · May 2006

I called a cycle dealer and they asked me if I wanted paste or liquid....WHICH ONE SHOULD I GET?

manaraki · May 2006

They asked me the same question. The guy I spoke with went and talked to his detailer at the Harley dealership. He said the spray was for detailing and waxing. He said you would put that on after washing, and then put the wax on after the spray. Does this sound correct?

bretfraz · May 2006

Here is the basic lineup:

S100 carnauba paste wax
S100 Shine Enhancing Paint Cleanser ( a mild hand polish, great as a pre-wax paint cleaner )
S100 Detail + Wax (an aerosol spray wax best used in between regular wax jobs)

S100 offers other motorcycle-related products but us car folks can skip them. The wax you want is their carnauba paste wax. IIRC, the price is $14.95 from your local Harley-Davidson dealer.

lmacmil · May 2006

"squeegies is they only work well on flat surfaces"

I'll concede that point

I live on a heavily wooded lot and I've avoided buying a blower for 20 years so I certainly won't get one to dry my car.

tmart · May 2006

I've tried this method a couple of times and came to the conclusion it's more trouble and takes more time than just using towels and/or microfibers. Got to count getting out the cord and blower, and putting them up afterward. Plus you still have to wipe the car, and I don't like using my electric blower on a WET driveway.

bretfraz · May 2006

I have a gas backpack blower and it's too much of a PITA to use as a car dryer. But I know several people who love using them, so if you've got a leaf blower give it a try and see if it works for ya.

filod · May 2006

Bretfraz - I tried the Meguiars NXT on the black Camry SE and you are correct, it gives a deep black. It really added to the attractiveness to the sportier Camry model.

When I still have the graphite Accord, I used the other product and while it is very glossy, it does not give me the deep color that I want.

This weekend I used the other product to my silver sienna, and I am very happy with its shine.

For the black Camry, wow I might stay with the NXT for awhile, or maybe it is just because it is still a new car. Thank you again.

FiloD

bottgers · May 2006

In that case, I would recommend trying to use a rake to dry your vehicle

bottgers · May 2006

In my case, it's much less time consuming to use the blower rather than wiping down. I have a minivan and it takes almost as long to wipe it dry as it does to wash. Also, I don't have to worry about the wet thing. My driveway is fairly steeply slanted, is paved, and has no holes or other areas where water can puddle. It's very electric leaf blower safe.

tmart · May 2006

Glad it works for you. Here in Houston, most everyting is mostly FLAT, so water puddles on my driveway in places.

BTW, I like your idea about using the rake to dry, in #3647. A benefit you didn't mention is it will remove those pesky swirl marks everyone complains about!

charleytampa · May 2006

sounds really quick and works well for you. Here by downtown tampa, florida, with all the pollen, 100 degree merciless sun, and humidity, I'm afraid I have my work typically cut out for me. I have a 2006 Corolla S Phantom Grey I bought in early January.

For major washes (I try to do this every two months), I

(1) wash the car with Dawn.

(2) clay the car

(3) wash it with Meguiar's Gold. Fantastic, economical wash.

(4) Put on one coat of liquid glass, in the heat, as per the directions.

(5) Let it bake for a few hours, then apply coat two

(6) let is sit overnight, then put on S100. I put it on the alloy rims, too.

(7) clean interior. I use, oh shoot, I cannot remember. Lexyl or something like that? Works very well protecting the interior.

(8) Wash carpet mats if necessary. I put a rubber mat on top of my driver's side carpet bc I have a manual and I'll wear it out quickly.

One quick question: does Scotchguard really help?

(9) For the windows, I use Eagle1 Window wash. It works fantastically. I've actually put the liquid glass on afterwards and it helps a lot, too.

Typically takes me about 6 hours total. The S100 is a breeze to put on. I use microfiber towels to wipe both the liquid glass and the S100 off.

I bought the California Water Blade, but I've actually scratched the Clear Coat of my gf's car with it. Ooops!!! I like that 10 dollar wipe rag you get from WalMart that comes in all those funky colors. To be honest it works amazingly well.

tmart · May 2006

Just my 2 cents worth. First, I would NOT use Dawn every two months! Dawn removes the prior wax, and shouldn't be used as a regular car wash. Also, I don't think you'd need to clay the car more than once, maybe twice a YEAR. Check out the unmentional forum and do the exterior twice a year, washing as needed. But, if YOU like it go for it, just seems like a lotta work to me. Again, just my two cents FWIW.

andrelaplume · May 2006

after driving quite a ways and getting home I noticed the side of the container is cracked. I can not tell if the crack goes all the way thru. I opened the top and I guess its all right....I can always wrap some duct tape over the crack. Think I should worry...the stuff is not cheap but its a trek to return it and They'll likely think I dropped it!

charleytampa · May 2006

I don't Dawn every time I wash the car....I wash it once every two weeks; takes about twenty minutes. Then I just use the Meguar's Gold car wash.

However, in this climate even the sealant is gone within two months. Some of it exists on the sides of the car but since I have to reseal and wax the hood, roof, trunk, and front end of it, I figure I might as well do everything else.

Right now I do have to clay once every few months because hte car is not garaged and they are constantly reworking the roads and so forth. I use a third of the bar each time, and it gets pretty black; especially with all the bugs in the front end and the tar behind the rear wheel well.

My gf thinks im obsessed, and I probably am. Still, I've never had anything remotely new before and i enjoy my gleaming car.

manaraki · May 2006

What is the best applicator to put the S100 on my car?? Also, is a microfiber towel the best to remove it? I have a Brand New Mustang GT Tungsten Gray. Is washing and waxing really all I should do? Any suggestions would be great. Also, Liquid Glass, is this to apply to your windows to bead up the water? Thanks guys!

charleytampa · May 2006

manarki,

To apply the s100, simply use the applicator they give you. Apply lightly to a small area (two, three square feet, maybe?) nd then buff with a microfiber towel. That does a good job....

As for the liquid glass, I wouldnt buy it just for the windows. It's primarily a sealant, which is a stronger version of the s100. It's a lot harder to put on. the s100 is great bc it's cheap and very easy to apply. ALso, it doesnt stain the trim as well.

For the windows, you can just use the s100 and see how it works or you can use rainx. especially with a new car.

washing and waxing is all you really need to make your car look good. to make it spectacular, go for the claying and the glazing as well; just peruse this forum and do research for a few days. Just remember that it's a lot more work. Since you have a dark grey,the pain won't shine like a red or so. You want it to have a high reflection.

manaraki · May 2006

I washed my car last night around dinner time and promptly brought it in the garage for the night. Do you think it would be OK to wax it today? Or should I wash it all over again. Also, how many microfiber towels are neccessary for waxing? I purchased the S100 paste wax and it comes with an applicator, will this applicator be enought to do the whole car, or should I purchase something else. If so, are the Meguiar's application pads OK. Someone had mentioned Microfiber application pads, but I haven't seen those. Thanks

bretfraz · May 2006

If the car has been stored overnight, it probably just needs a light dusting before waxing. A damp microfiber towel will take care of that.

You'll probably need 2-3 towels to remove the wax, just in case you drop one or get some crud on it. Over time it would be a good idea to build up an inventory of towels for various needs. There are quite a few good suppliers on the internet and some offer towel kits that are good values.

As long as the applicator is clean and soft, use whatever you like. If the S100 app works for you, cool. I prefer cotton terry or microfiber apps over foam but that's just me.

I've seen microfiber apps at Pep Boys, WalMart and Target recently.

imidazol97 · May 2006

Is there a spray or finish to put on steering wheels? Mine is plastic coated, not leather, and has developed roughness where I always hold it. I have worn through the outer layer of finish. I'd like to get a smoother feel again.

How?

fish8 · May 2006

I wouldn't use any product (read: Armor All) that makes the wheel slippery. There's probably not much you can do for a plastic coated steering wheel.

bretfraz · May 2006

I agree with not applying some kind of coating on it; too risky. How about a leather (or some kind of material) steering wheel cover?

andrelaplume · May 2006

I just used S100 on my wife's new Pacific Blue Metallic Rav. All our other cars including my current 02 Camry have been white. Anyway, just prior I used Meguiars Cleaner Wax on my car (I always get dirt or something splotch in the paint) and topped it off with NuFinish. It beeds like you won't believe and from a distance it looks shiny but up close it looks a little dull. So, I figured I'd try the S100 everyone raves about. Before I got to my Camry (again, since I had just Mequiared and NuFinished it) I did my wfe's new blue RAV. Now the car was shiny anyway since it was new. I applied the wax. It was quite easy to apply but it seems weird not waiting for a haze. The car looked just as shiny, maybe a bit more when I was done and it felt softer or smoother. It rained the next day of course. Water was beeding nicely. When the car dried it had a million little spots all over it. I noticed none on the Camry. I washed both the Rav and Camry with my new scented Megiaurs pink car wash and hosed each off, again, nice beeding on each. I did not dry either vehicle. (It was 10 pm and dark and I was not about to stay out there any later) The next morning, again spotson the RAV! Again my Camry showed none.

So, either the lighter blue RAV is showing spots that are not easily seen on the Camry or there is some inherrent difference between the S100 and NuFinish.

What you guys think. Did I do something wrong?

bretfraz · May 2006

There is a lot of difference between S100 and NuFinish and that may be part of the reason for the spots.

NuFinish is a polymer-based protectant with pretty strong polishing agents. S100 is a high-content carnauba wax with no cleaning or polishing ability. Basically NuFinish is good at restoring or improving paint that's in pretty bad shape while S100 is best used as a "final step" wax to protect and enhance the polishing you already did. Using S100 on top of NuFinish is fine; lots of people top a cleaner/wax type product with a pure wax to enhance looks.

A lot of times the natural carnauba waxes react strangley to water. It's happened to me before. Carnauba should bead water but sometimes it'll act up, especially if you've used it when it's humid outside.

Also, do you live in an area with hard water? Perhaps its water deposits you're seeing and not some reaction between water and the wax. If so you'd be correct in thinking the spots would be more noticeable on blue than white.

You might want to try an experiment: Divide the hood of the RAV4 into two sections. On one section do your usual polish and wax routine using S100. On the other do it the old way, using just NuFinish and Meguiars, no S100. Live with them for a week or two and see how they hold up and react to washing, rain, dirt, etc. Pay special attention to the shine to see if it degrades after a week or so. This way you can compare the combinations side-by-side and see which one works best for you.

imidazol97 · May 2006

I'd be really interested in hearing your results if you do try this. I'd thought about S100 or at least the newer Mothers or Meguiars that someone had mentioned called FX or similar naming.

andrelaplume · May 2006

Ok, I did notice the S100 did very little for removing any kind of dirt from the car. Nu Finish is certainly better at that. My Camry (for whatever reason) seems to get dirt in the paint that not even the NuFinish can easily get out thus I started using the Meguiars Cleaner Wax on the Camry. I then put the Nu FInish over that since I already had it. Maybe the Cleaner Wax alone was enough? In fact I think the NU Finish may have even dulled the car a bit more than the Cleaner Wax but I though it might be creating a better barrier to keep the dirt out of the paint longer.

Anyway, with our NEW Rav purchase I thought I'd try the S100 everyone raved about. I figured at the very least it would make my Camry more shiny when put over the NuFinish AND I figured it would better for the brand new car finish on the Rav than the Nu Finish which I heard was abrasive. That was my logic anyway...

I will:

1) Put S100 on my Camry over the Nu Finish. If I understand right, I really should keep using the NuFinsih here since my Camry gets 'dirt' problems that do not wash off. It hopefully will make the Camry shinier.

2) I will NuFinsh part of the Rav. There is no real dirt that won't wash off on the Rav at this point so I do not think I need the Meguiars cleaner wax. I'll then see which is shinier initially and after a week or so as well as see which beeds better and what happens with the spots.

Just to make sure...no harm can come from using the NuFinish on the new Rav right....

bretfraz · May 2006

If you're worried, try it on a smaller spot instead of half the hood, just to be sure. You can always go back over the hood later with the NuFinish.

Thank you for keeping us posted!

dhoff · May 2006

What's a good bug remover? I've got dead, dried bugs all over the front of my silver minivan. I tried getting them off with my old can of No. 7 Bug & Tar Remover but it didn't work too well. I remember this stuff working very well in the past, maybe mine has gone bad (it's at least 5 years old).

I have seen 3 different varieties of Turtle Wax bug remover, as well as a Blue Coral gel product. I'm looking for what has worked well in your experience. Any suggestions?

Dave

bretfraz · May 2006

In my experience, petroleum based "bug removers" don't work well on bug residue. Most of the retail bug removers are petro-solvents (naptha, mineral spirits, something like that) which work great on tar and grease. Problem is, bug residue is not oily, it's acidic.

The best product I've found to remove buggage is alkaline-based all purpose cleaners. I prefer products made for automotive detailing use but you could use diluted Simple Green or similar. Rinse the car, spray on the cleaner, let it set up for a few seconds (but don't let it dry!), use a sponge or mitt to agitate and rinse thoroughly. Follow up by washing with another mitt and shampoo and you're done. Finally, keep a good coat of wax on the car as a protective barrier.

I did a 500 mile trip last weekend and used the above technique to remove all bug crud from the front end, windshield and mirrors. Worked great.

just4fun2 · May 2006

FWIW. I believe that using NuFinish is going to take your clearcoat off of your Camry and should be used as a last resort to get your spots out of your paint. I wouldn't use it on the new RAV.

I use SpeedBead from Stoners. I have been using it for years on both of my vehicles and the paint looks like "new" on both, 5 and 7 year old vehicles. My son uses SpeedBead on his black 05 jeep and it looks great. The paint looks "wet" after using SpeedBead and the finish is silky smooooooth.

I don't spend my time waxing my convertible all day long, I would rather be crusing with the top down than spending a lot of time waxing. SpeedBead is fast on and fast off.

Read the other post here and you will see that a lot of the people use multiple coats of something or touch-ups in between waxing. Anything will protect if you use it often enough.

Good Luck!

andrelaplume · May 2006

On the one hand I think that if NuFinish would take the clearcoat off cars it would have a bad rep and be off the market. On the other hand it is the 'twice' a year car poilish and perhaps using it twice a year does not hurt in any appreciable manner. I just know I get splotchy dirt marks in my Clearcoated 2002 white camry that does not wash off. The NuFinish gets 65% out. I had to go to the Meguiars cleaner wax to get the rest of the dirt which is generally found on the hood. I generally must do this once a year. At other washings / waxings after that I'd just use the Nu Finsh and it would suffice, cleaning the dirt and polishing. (I'd think then that the cleaner wax is removing clearcoat as well--no?) Anyway, so long as hand washing keeps the new Rav clean I'll avoid the NuFinish for now and stick with the S100.

As far as the spotting, I looked carefully at the Camry and the spots are there too, not as easy to see though. I did a test. I hosed the Windows off and washed in a circular motion with a sponge and the Pink Meguiars scented car wash. I then hosed both cars off and went to bed--I did not dry them. This morning.....little spots all over the windows on each car! So...I guess it could be my water...though this was never a concern before OR it could be that Meguiars car wash detergent....is that possible. I guess I'll have to try some other wash to see...I guess I shouldn't have thrown out that Turtle Wax Wash!

bretfraz · May 2006

There is a difference in car shampoos. The better ones have rinsing and sheeting agents to help reduce water spotting. If you have a friend that has car wash stuff, maybe try a wash with their shampoo and see how it works.

If you're ever in the Atlanta suburbs, LMK and I'll give you a few samples of what I have - Meguiars, Mothers, Zaino, Eagle One, etc.

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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