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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
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My routine is Mothers clay bar, 3M Hand Glaze, Collinite applied by hand. It has served me well, and with limited time I rarely try anything else.
NXT isn't a bad product but it ain't the most durable. I like to recommend Mothers products as an alternative but their comparable product isn't any more durable.
What you need is a polymer sealant, not a wax. Sealants will hold up better to car washes and weather conditions. About the best store-bought polymer product is Liquid Glass. Cost is about $20.00 and you might have to hunt around a bit. Like most sealants, the trick is to apply it very thin when the paint is cool to the touch.
Hope this helps!
Helps protect them on the lot till they are sold.
1. I'm on a tight budget. Any of the paint sealant systems I'd like to try aren't a reality until next spring. The dealer actually did a nice prep job and gave it a nice clean coat of "wax" but I know I'll need more to make it through the harsh MN winter months. I've got a can of Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow #26 which I've found to be OK but am open to other options. Just looking for something that will last long and doesn't have any abrasives for my new ride. Ideas?
2. I forgot to tell the dealer not to put on their little advertising decal. So now I have this ugly white decal on my decklid
-- Oh, dark pearl blue metallic paint if it matters.
I look forward to snooping on these boards again and maybe even contributing a bit. I was once called a walking, talking "Consumer Reports". I don't know if that's good or bad.
If the #26 looks and feels OK (no clumps, lumps, nasty smells, etc), try it on a small section and see how it works and looks. It's a pretty good non-abrasive wax and should hold up for a couple months during winter. When you get a warm spell and clean the car, slap on another coat if you can. That way you'll have some protection throughout the winter.
Alternatively you can use a spray wax after car washings. Or try one of those "wax as you dry" products. Anything you can do to keep the paint protected is a good thing.
Don't forget to wax the wheels as road salt can corrode them over time.
Oh.... to remove the dealer decal, see if you can't just pick it off with your fingernail. Maybe a few minutes with a hair dryer will help loosen the glue, but I'd guess the decal will come right off. If any glue residue remains, it'll come off with rubbing alcohol, WD40, or something like Goo Gone.
I don't mean to jump in here, but I've used it on my dark blue Civic and medium green Pilot. It tends to want to streak pretty bad, especially on the Civic. I found the best way to avoid the streaks is to keep one towel to wipe it off the first time over, then follow it up with a clean towel to get the streaks out. You can even use a spray bottle filled with water to mist it before buffing with yet another clean towel to further work out the streaks if necessary.
I know it sounds like a pain and it can be. Just be sure to let it dry completely before removing as that helps too. I've already applied it to my entire Civic before going back to wipe off. The durability seems pretty good too.
All of the effort is worth the work. A co-worker told me my Civic was "gleaming" after one application. I have always liked to wax my cars through the years and I have never received compliments like I do after I use the Black Magic. I've used just about every type out there including Meguiar's, Turtle Wax, Nu Finish, etc. and I like this the best so far.
In any event, what are some recommendations for a mild cleaner wax? The scratches are only in a few places, and only visible in strong, direct sunlight, so I don't think I (yet) need the full-on "system" type of products...
Oh, and in terms of my vote for good store-bought wax, I like the Wax Shop's Super Glaze. Goes on and comes off really easy (you do the whole car at once as well). Not very long lasting though.
Others who know more than I do will post about what is available from auto parts stores. Here's my recommendation: Machine Polish 4
fowler3
Strong recommendation. Get A CLAY CLEANING kit. About $20.
Just did it to both my cars and it is the ONLY way to get back to a factory finish. Also DO NOT use towels in the process. Get microfiber cleaning cloths. Use only them for removing any materials that you apply to the paint.
You will end up with a finish as soft as a babies ---.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Did a search here for RejeX with no results. I know it's been around for awhile, first read about it in Car&Driver Aug. 03 on a Audi A4. There web site www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html has a variety of favorable reviews from bikers, boaters, and aviators. I bought a bottle a couple of years ago and have used it a few times without complaint. I don't disagree with anything on there web site, but I'm certainly not a detailer expert. I didn't even know you should't apply polymer over Meg. #7, which is what I was doing, so who knows if any polymer ever even bonded to the paint. One difference of opinion between this board and the RejeX site concerns use of a topper coat. They say don't bother putting wax over the polymer because it won't stick to there very slick coating.
Anyway, I clicked on there MSDS and it showed only two ingredients. Petroleum Distillate 20-30%, and Proprietary Siloxane 1-10%. Does anyone know if I should be concerned with this level of petroleum distillate, or have any other knowledge of the product? TIA
At our house the rule is vacuum first, then put it away before the hose even comes out of the garage. Besides, if there's any dust blowby, you don't want it on your just washed car.
We have portable plug-in GFIC's at work, and I would think they would be available at home improvement stores. You may want to consider one if your in a older home.
I've heard that some of the newer Turtle Wax products are actually pretty decent...and I like the real wax content (I've never been a polymer guy myself).
For those folks using popular over the counter products--many many of them are very good. My counsel would be avoid the most expensive in this group because it is too often about marketing and hype than actual performance. That's my bias but my shelves full of these products drive me to this conclusion. Pocket the difference among the 'popular' products or better yet, simply settle on what you like and works for you.
Unfortunately, glazes and sealants do not play well together. The oils in the glaze prevent the sealant from bonding properly and eliminate the benefit of using a sealant (superior durability).
If you want to use a glaze, you're best off using a non-cleaning wax for protection. If the Avalon has swirl marks or other minor paint flaws, they'll need to be polished out prior to using Liquid Glass.
I would recommend you clean the paint first with paint detailing clay. This will remove any surface contaminents and make the paint super smooth prior to wax or sealant. If paint detailing clay is new to you, have a look at this link for more info:
Click here for info on detailing clay
Hope this helps!!
Because it sat outside a factory for a few days after assembly.
Because it rode on a train from the factory to the local depot.
Because it sat at a depot for a few days waiting to be deliverd.
Because it rode on an open truck to the dealerhip.
Because it sat at the dealership awaiting it's new owner.
Because the detail guys used dirty rags on it to prep it.
Get the point??
You need to get a life.
Now when I did it to my then 11 yr old car... wow, what a difference!
Then you'd hate the local Honda dealer in my town. Their upper lot is downhill from a softball field and lined with trees. They finally installed what looks to be a 2 acre net over the lot to catch the foul balls.
Not that clay would remove those contamainents.
What are the best products users have used to help get rid of swirls (not fill them in).
Can the removal of swirls be done by hand (I don’t own a power buffer)?
In what order should the detail be done ex. Dawn, clay, dawn, swirl, wax?
Thanks for all who help.
As soon as you can, get a coat of wax on the paint. The car can be waxed immediately and its best to get things protected from the get go. The detail spray is fine to use all over the car so I don't see why you would not want to do the whole car with it.
A new car is like painting with a new canvas. A little maintenance and TLC now will make it easier to keep it looking like new for years to come. Have fun with it!!
I'd suggest trying the least hard-core solution first, and ratchet up from there if it doesn't work.
A wax with some very mild polishing ability might do the trick all by itself. After a lot of research, I tried Turtle Wax's Platinum Series Ultra-Gloss wax, and it worked very nicely in removing my swirl marks. It's not as strong as a cleaner wax, but does have some light polishers in it. Goes on/comes off very easily by hand. Available pretty much everywhere and very reasonably priced.
I was pretty impressed, given Turtle Wax's reputation.
Is there a sealant (Liquid Glass??) that can be applied over the Zymol, or would the Zymol keep it from bonding properly?
Sometimes I just can't control myself. I was at Big Lots the other day and found they had the full line of NASCAR car care products for super low prices. What did I do? I bought almost all of them! It's not like I needed them, I probably have 150+ products on hand right now. Remember when Bruce Dickinson said, "I've got a fever, and the only perscription is more cowbell"? Well, my perscription is more car wax.
Here's a basic rundown of what I've tried:
Car Wash: Lots of suds but not as rich as the best shampoos. Shampoo was watery but foamed up nicely. Didn't leave a residue and rinsed clean. Not up to Zaino Z6 or Duragloss 901 standards but a good shampoo for the price. On a par with Meguiars pink car wash, Zip Wax or your typical WalMart product. Cost was $2.00 for a 64oz jug which possibly makes it the best shampoo value ever, $0.03 per ounce.
Wheel Cleaner: I liked the foaming action as it allowed me time to clean the little windows in the wheels instead of it running off. Not too aggressive and not noxious-smelling. Rinsed clean. The Dupont wheel cleaner has more bite but this stuff appears safer for delicate wheels and regular use.
Tire Shine: Water based silicone emulsion. Looks and smells like Armor All. Spread very nicely with a tire swipe and dried in a few minutes to a glossier-than-average shine. Will not sling which makes it good in my book. Very comparable in looks to Vinylex, glossier than Zaino Z16, 303 and Eagle One Concours. If you want a safe tire shine with some bling, this is for you.
Glass Cleaner: I used this in my truck and found the foaming sprayer scattered cleaner everywhere, making a huge mess. Ditched the lousy foaming spray head for a normal one and this stuff works fine. Truth is, just about any decent glass cleaner works well when used with a quality MF. For $1.50 for 16oz, it's hard to beat, but so is Sprayway, IG, etc. Better than that Meguiars NXT glass cleaner junk, that's for sure.
NASCAR Wax: The climactic moment for any detail. Came with a small MF towel and a foam app. Wax is white, creamy, no solventy or nasty odor. Application was a little grabby (might have been the app) and spreaded like most store bought waxes. Dried to a haze immediately. MF wipe off was super easy and left no residue or dust. Did not improve the gloss or slickness of the paint, couldn't visibly tell where I waxed and where I didn't. Product seemed a lot like Eagle One Nanowax in application and peformance. It's decent when compared to your typical Walmart car wax but not as good as Meguiars NXT or Mothers FX Synwax. Cost was $4.00 incl MF and app, so it's a good value.
On a whole, the NASCAR product line isn't bad. About average with a few products slightly above and below the median. They would be good products for someone who wasn't into serious detailing but wanted good, reliable products. For less than $20 at Big Lots you can buy an entire suite of car care products, which makes them a great deal.
The only other products I didn't buy were the leather cleaner/conditioner and the spray wax. Each were $2-3 so you might as well buy them too if you need them.
Check out http://www.ecolabathome.com/ for product info and videos showing how to use the products correctly. It's a good website for novices interesting in learning some of the basics.
Thanks for being the Edmunds consumer reporter.