Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

tallman1 · March 2008

I've used the regular glass polish from this company on my shower doors with good results but I've never tried anything on car windows. I'm assuming that the detail shop would have access to something like this as well, but you never know.

Glass Polish

tallman1 · March 2008

I finally got around to posting a couple of pics of my car after washing but before adding the spray-on wax. At the time this was taken, the paint sealant had been on about 10-11 months, I think. There are a couple more pics on my CarSpace page.

See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com">

(Hmm, it shows up for me on preview but not when I view the page. If you can't see the image, you'll have to visit here: Tallman's CarSpace page)

bretfraz · March 2008

Based on your description, it sounds like hard water spots, maybe some sort of calcinated residue. First thing I'd try is vinegar applied with a towel. Vinegar is acidic and will break the bond between the deposits and the surface. Might take a couple applications and/or some soaking, but its plenty safe to use.

The spots could also be polished off mechanically. You'll need a polishing compound and either a buffer or some elbow grease. Apply with a cotton terry or foam applicator and, again, it might need a couple attempts.

I can't recommend a lime remover as I don't know the composition and haven't tested it myself. Read the fine print and try it if you feel it'll be OK for your car.

stevenyc · March 2008

Thanks for the feedback. I'll try the vinegar first and let you know how it works.

oldfarmer50 · March 2008

After going through all the trouble to clean, seal and wax my car I would like to hand wash it with something that won't strip the wax off. I know blue Dawn is recommended to strip the old wax off but is there something that will take light road dirt off and leave the wax?

mcdawgg · March 2008

Strippers? Oh, that kind. :P

I just use Turtle wax car wash soap or any other car wash soap - it will not strip wax. Do not use hot water, and do not use too much soap.

What did you use to seal and wax?

tallman1 · March 2008

is there something that will take light road dirt off and leave the wax?

We've all got our favorites.

I'm reluctant to make any suggestions because I don't want to sound like a broken record. I'm very satisfied with what I use. You can search on my past posts to get an idea.

There are many products out there that would do the work. Some cost more than others, of course.

oldfarmer50 · March 2008

"...Oh, that kind..."

LOL I figured that title would get some attention.

I used Mother's 3 step system (see my previous posts). It took a lot of time and I'd like it to last.

Sounds like what you're saying is to just go light on the soap and use cool water. I'll try that. I wouldn't mind giving it another coat of wax but I don't want to seal and wax again so soon.

Thanks

tl_2007s · April 2008

Well, I felt very stupid afterwards, but here it goes.... While trying to park the car at the shopping mall, I came too close to the pavement. That part of the pavement was red. So, now under the front bumper of my TL, I have red paint scratches...about 10 inches long area! It is not visible unless you go down and look at the bottom of the bumper.

I read elsewhere that some polish might remove the paint marks. I guess I should try polish first and then rubbing compound.

Sonus has so many kinds of polish products and someone suggested using Zaino Z5. Any other ideas? What should I do?

Thanks,

bretfraz · April 2008

You'll need a polish with some bite to it. Try something like Meguiars Scratch X or Mothers Scratch Remover, both avail at most auto parts stores. Apply with a terry cloth towel or applicator. Might need to put a little muscle into it and attempt more than one application.

Here's a detailers trick - Before busting out the compound, try some petroleum-type solvents and see if you can't dissolve most of the paint transfer. I used a product called M-1 I get from my detailing products wholesaler. If you have some around, try mineral spirits, naptha, MEK (I'll bet that will do the trick...) or even something like WD-40. A little experimentation with some chemicals you already have around the house might just do the trick.

oldfarmer50 · April 2008

"...I have red paint scratches..."

Ouch! I'll tell my little story and see if any of it is helpful to you.

I have an 11 year old Chrysler which still has pretty good paint. Well, one day my knuckle-headed son and his knuckle-head friend built a "potato cannon". I'm sure you've heard of this. As part of the project they used plastic glue to connect various parts of the "barrel". Picture melted PVC plastic and dripping glue.

Now, somewhere in the instructions it must have said to be sure to rest this cannon on the hood of you old man's car to let the glue dry. The result, two 5 inch white plastic rings melted into the paint on my hood (which is dark green). Very pretty.

Fast forward about 6 months and I had just polished and waxed my new car with Mother's 3-step system. As I put everything away I looked at the hood of my old car and wondered if the pre-wax cleaner would do any good on these white rings. I just put some on a rag and wiped it on the melted plastic and BINGO! The white plastic came right off with no damage to the paint underneath.

I would say start off with the mildest polish you can find and work your way up to the more abrasive stuff.

sincraft · April 2008

I'm sure I don't have to tell you this but in case someone else reads this and thinks this might do spots on a paintjob, please do NOT apply this to your paint.

Vinegar + paint = BAD! Vinegar actually etches STONE in a matter of seconds.

Just wanted to be clear here...

imidazol97 · April 2008

Actually the paint is a polymer. The acetic acid in the vinegar would not affect the paint. The ability to etch stone is the acid interacting with the various minerals in the stone in a chemical reaction with the ionic minerals.

I would use a mild solution of vinegar, not over 1 in 4, and test on an out-of-the-way area to feel confident at first.

lmacmil · April 2008

Just gave my wife's pinkish-gold Highlander it's first spring bath. Lots of tar-type deposits along the rocker panels. What's the best (or your favortie) solvent to remove those deposits? I don't care if it removes the wax because it will need a new wax job anyway.

smokey75 · April 2008

Try a clay bar. I was skeptical but they really do take off tar, paint... all kinds of things. Now I use one before I wax every time.

tallman1 · April 2008

What's the best (or your favortie) solvent to remove those deposits?

I've never had to use anything on my 06 Accord other than clay. I know there are some pretty good tar removers out there but I've never needed them. I've managed to clean most deposits off with my regular car wash. The smaller deposits come off with the clay.

fintail · May 2008

I have an ancient Mercedes which predates clearcoat paint. The car doesn't seem to shine like it used to, even after I wax it. The paint seems somewhat hazy (it is a medium blue) and it looks shiny from some angles, but in direct sunlight when one looks from overhead, or under a light in a parking garage, it is not. When I last waxed it a couple years ago, I stripped off the old wax with dish soap, used a gentle polish, and put on a couple coats of wax. It didn't seem to help. Should I use a rubbing compound on this? Someone also suggested to me a fine wet sandpaper, but I don't trust this. Or is the paint just old and that's how it is? The car is garaged and is only driven a few days per month. I have owned the car for many years, and it seems the car was shinier in the past.

moocow1 · May 2008

Hi Everyone,

I just picked up a new car about 20 days ago and am really researching into what steps I should take for it to keep the paint in great shape. I know I want to use some sort of very long term paint sealant over wax(preferably something that lasts close to a year) I'm not anal enough about the specific shine to need short term carnuba wax instead.

For a new car, what would you guys recommend for the process? And what are some of the best new long term paint sealants out there?
Also I'm a little clueless about the cleaning process afterward. What do you guys do for basic cleaning/maintenance with the wax already on? Thanks for being patient with me.

imidazol97 · May 2008

Does a claybar work on smoothing that type of paint?

fintail · May 2008

I don't know. But the paint itself is smooth as a baby's bottom - I have always kept it waxed and I know the car was garaged by the previous owner along with myself, so that goes back over 20 years. The paint just doesn't seem to shine as I want to remember it did when I bought the car, rubbed out the paint, and waxed it. I know it's been well over 10 years since I rubbed it out last. Maybe since my normal cars have clearcoat and they have shined like new, my expectations have been warped a little.

I tried a little spot of rubbing compound on the car when I had it out yesterday....I couldn't really tell a difference once I put some wax back over it. I wonder if compound plus polish plus wax would do it. Or maybe I should bite the bullet and take it to a good detail shop.

laurasdada · May 2008

Hopefully I won't get in too much trouble for this, but for info and great products, check out:

zainostore.com

You can also review the zaino related thread for info, as well as this one...

tallman1 · May 2008

For a new car, what would you guys recommend for the process? And what are some of the best new long term paint sealants out there?

I'm a big fan of the paint sealant from Griot's Garage.

You can visit my CarSpace page to see photos of the water beading after almost a year. I still haven't applied a new coat yet and it still looks just like the photos.
See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com">

fintail · May 2008

Well, the old car is now at a higher end detail shop. I tried to rub it out, polish it, and then wax it - my test panel (trunklid) showed virtually no change. The paint needs a machine polishing, something I can't give it.

The guy at the detail shop, who I believe was the owner, was impressed with how smooth and strong the paint on the car felt and looked. He wasn't worried about it not coming back to life, it seemed pretty routine to him. I won't have time to pick it up until late Friday or Saturday...should be fun. A little expense, but since the car got nothing but an oil change last year, I guess I can handle it.

This is also the first time I have ever taken one of my cars to a professional detailer - I have always done it myself in the past.

tallman1 · May 2008

Looking forward to seeing how it works out!

bretfraz · May 2008

While your Mercedes is being detailed, have a look at this one, an '83 240D that was pro detailed recently. Came out pretty nice.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/107473-1983-mercedes-240-diesel.html

moocow1 · May 2008

Hmm I saw that zaino thread, figured I should start with the main one first. But I'll ask there as well for advice.

moocow1 · May 2008

Ooo, that looks really nice, I'm impressed. I'll have to look into that one.

What about maintenance between sealant applications? Do people just use standard car wash soap, rinse, and dry or is there anything else done?

tallman1 · May 2008

What about maintenance between sealant applications? Do people just use standard car wash soap, rinse, and dry or is there anything else done?

I use the car wash from Griot's but I'm sure others are just fine. I've found that using a good microfiber wash pad or mitt works well for me. Using the two bucket method is crucial, IMHO. You use one bucket with your soap and another for rinsing. That way the dirt comes off in the rinse bucket and doesn't get back on the paint. My soap bucket stays clean after I'm done no matter how dirty my car is. Having a good wash pad helps because the dirt comes off easily when rinsing.

After rinsing, I use one quality microfiber drying cloth to get most of the water off (some folks use a special squeegee) and then I use the spray-on wax from Griot's. I use another microfiber cloth to wipe that off. It doesn't take that much extra time and the wax really helps the sealant last for a year. It adds a nice shine too.

Of course, I get anal about cleaning off the door jambs and inside the trunk and hood areas too.

I just did my annual sealant application this past week so I'm all set for another year! :shades:

fintail · June 2008

Well, I got it back the other day. The day after I took it in the guy who runs the place called me to say it wasn't coming along as well as he had hoped...apparently he and his crew just couldn't get the old paint to shine up like new paint. He expected better too, but I guess it doesn't look too bad...the only thing is that I can make it look just as good myself. The positive side is that he didn't charge me for much more than a wash, even though they did wax it. But he said he used several different polishes, including a very aggressive one, and it had nearly no effect. He was saying how the paint predating clearcoat was a factor, but I don't know. Anyway, here's how it looks now, not much different from before.

One view

Another angle

(pics are from yet another cloudy day, not much sun this year)

It has kind of a muted shine, but not the mirror gloss I had hoped for.

fintail · June 2008

Clearcoat paint can really make a car look good.

I use Meguiars NXT to maintain my modern car, and it looks like new

tallman1 · June 2008

It still looks pretty good for its age. :shades:

And I'm a bit south of you in the Puget Sound area so I can relate to your concerns about lack of sun lately!!

fintail · June 2008

I think my expectations might have been too high. Oh well, now I don't have to worry that I was doing it wrong, and it didn't cost me a whole lot. It's an old car that I want to keep in an "unrestored" state as long as I can.

Maybe we'll see sun in August.

phdhusky · June 2008

Hey guys I am also new to waxing and just got a new car. I want something fairly easy to do that won't take a lot of time. I've seen a little about cleaning waxes what are they and are they good?

Also what kind of applicators are good (type, material, etc).

Thanks

oldfarmer50 · July 2008

For many years I never put wax on anywhere but on the metal. I didn't wax the bumper covers or the headlight lenses. Now I wonder, is this a bad idea?

Yes, I can see doing the plastic bumpers but what about the headlights? Will the wax yellow and dull the lights or will it protect the lenses from the many small scratches that eventually cause them to cloud up?

imidazol97 · July 2008

There are plastic polishes meant for things like headlights. They help filter the UV which is what deteriorates the polycarbonates. I got one from Meguiars or Mothers.

lmacmil · July 2008

How do I know when I should replace a clay bar? Is it still ok as long as I can find a clean section to use? Can one buy a clay bar without the spray? I haven't been able to find one.

imidazol97 · July 2008

Try an authentic auto parts store. In our area one's called Genuine Auto Parts. 3M and other companies make clay and sell it. You might try an auto paint store where people doing detailing pick up supplies.

tallman1 · July 2008

How do I know when I should replace a clay bar?

You can still use it if it has clean places. Be careful of tiny particles though... those will scratch the paint.

You should be able to find just the clay. I buy mine online but I'm sure a good auto parts store would have something available.

kirbstoy · April 2009

A few months ago I decided to try Turtle Wax's "ICE" vehicle polish and then follow-up with the ICE detailing spray. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion in Red-Fire Metallic. Prior to ICE, I had used Mothers, Meguiars, Groits and others but I was never impressed as I was the first time I used ICE.

Keeping my cars looking great has been a hobby since high school. I've received several comments on the "beautiful paint job" on my Fusion. The other products were good also, but ICE seems to last longer and seems easier to apply. Just my experience. Thanks

oldfarmer50 · August 2009

Anyone ever use any of the Colonite wax products? Heard about it on another board and was wondering if it's any good.

alwaysfords2 · August 2009

I have been using Collinite for around 10 years now on both my personal vehicles and for my Fire Dept take home vehicles. Awesome wax - lasts and lasts. I typically use Super Double Coat, but just recently bought a can of Concourse. I have won awards in Fire Dept parades with my truck wearing Collinite. I do a three step process - clay, 3M Hand Glaze, then Collinite. I park in a garage at home and at work and it will go 20+ months and the water still beads just as nicely as it did when it was first applied.

I have used their Fleetwax on my boat with great success too. Not as impressed with their leather cleaners or their boat compound.

Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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