-June 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Options
Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)
As many of you know our message server complains
when any topic has more than 500 posts. So... we
are continuing this discussion here in Part II.
Please go here:
vivona "Store Bought Car Waxes (No Zaino Posts, Please)" Feb 21, 1999 3:39pm
to see the posts from the first topic.
Thanks,
your new host, Bruce
when any topic has more than 500 posts. So... we
are continuing this discussion here in Part II.
Please go here:
vivona "Store Bought Car Waxes (No Zaino Posts, Please)" Feb 21, 1999 3:39pm
to see the posts from the first topic.
Thanks,
your new host, Bruce
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
marsha7, I think this is a 'polymer brand' for your consideration. I have used Nu-finish in the past but I've never really compared it to other products. As my cars got older I started to care less about the appearance. It seems to be difficult just to find time to wax them twice per year. But now that I have a new Odyssey on the way I have get back into the car care game.
Since you already have the 2001, do half your hood in 2001, half in Nu Finish Paste. Then check the shine and beading over the next few months. The one that lasts longer for you wins!
I can tell you from my own test that the TW Emerald Paste lasts about a week. I hope the 2001 does better. I get 8 months or better with Nu Finish.
Mr. Vivona
Bob
I found that doing your own test of your top three or four choices is the best way to find out what is best for your car, paint, environmental conditions, etc. For me, Nu Finish Paste was the hands down winner. Meguiars Liquid Cleaner Wax was next. This is consistent with the findings of Consumer Reports in their test a few years ago.
Mr. Vivona
Kevin
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Sorry, Sal!!!
Thanks in advance.
After Dawn and clay, you will be down to bare paint where your choice of polish and wax can work properly.
Good Luck!
newwestd (and any others who have used Dawn) - this may sound ignorant, but we are talking about the dish washing liquid, correct? How much do you mix, do you use hot/warm/cold water, does it matter? And I'll assume that the only time you would use Dawn is when you will follow it up with a wax, otherwise you are exposing your car. Any recommendations on a good car wash cleaning liquid for in between waxings?
Car wash cleaning liquids are a matter of preference. You can go to a Pep Boys and find all sorts of specific liquids that are made to wash your car safely.
You can go to topic "Waxes and Polishes, part III" to get more info. Be warned, it's full of Zaino posts and biggotts (that aren't supposed to post here).
For a brand new Lincoln LS (fine car), I wouldn't mess around with the cleaner, polish, wax combos like Nu-Finish. There are plenty of good polishes and waxes that are much better. If you want to do it right, it will be at least a two step process, polish and then wax. If you are going to go to the trouble of claying first, I suspect that you may want to really get a good finish. There's carnuba waxes (like Blitz, Meguiars, etc) and polymer waxes (like Zaino, Liquid Glass, etc.) You'll see some that say they have teflon. Teflon waxes aren't very good unless you heat the paint to outrageous temperatures so the teflon supposedly "bonds" with the paint. I reject the teflon claims as balderdash. I've used both types and prefer polymers. Carnubas won't last as long as polymers. Some say that Carnubas won't give the depth of shine either. All of this is debatable, of course.
Let us know what you decide and your results.
Unless you have some medium to heavey swirling in your paint, I would use "non-abrasives" on your finish. You want to get your paint as clean and as smooth as possilble without scratching the clear coat. Using Dawn and then claying (to pull out any imbedded stuff that the dawn doesn't) should leave your finish as clean and smooth as possible). A smooth, clean surface will allow your car's natural color and lustre come through. It will also add to the shine.
Black is the toughest color and much more susceptable to showing swirls than any other color I can think of (except maybe bright red). If cared for properly, nothing will look better though, IMHO.
I'm biased, but I have used many, many different products over the years (I had a sideline detailing business many years ago while in college). In general, Carnuba waxes don't last as long as polymers. Carnuba (or bees wax, which some companies tout) gets soft in the summer on your finish because of the heat. There are different grades of carnubas. Don't believe the hype of some waxes that say they are 100% carnuba. They can't be. Pure carnuba would be hard as rocks in a pure state and unuseable. Additives have to be present in order to soften the carnuba. Some are cheap and contain additives that aren't very helpful to your finish, either. There are some good carnubas out there, though. They will be more expensive than your "run-of-the-mill" waxes. Meguiars 3 step (clean, polish, wax) processes are good. I've also used Blitz Wax, which is also a good carnuba.
Again, I prefer polymers for their depth of shine and durability. The best I've found is Zaino. I won't go on here about it. It's only available mail order. I don't sell the stuff, I'm just a true believer. Send me an e-mail and I'll send their link (graphicguy@yahoo.com). The other polymer that is good is "liquid glass". Go to "Waxes and Polishes part III" in this conference for more specific discussion on this.
All good, sound advice from graphicguy. re: Dawn - must be the Blue type, and used ONLY for pre-waxing. A good squirt into a bucket of water is OK. Warm or cold doesn't seem to matter, but don't do it if it's hot out, and rinse often and really well.
For your Black finish, I also recommend a multi-step process to make it look it's best after the Dawn/Clay/Dawn (hey - you bought the black!) I have had good success with Eagle One "Wet Look" polish. It is a glaze, meaning a very fine polishing compound. Then, follow with Wax Shoppe Liquid Glaze Carnuba. Doesn't last too long, but it is very to use and has a great shine. I use an orbital power waxer - easy and no swirls at all.
Do take a look at the polymers. For black, they may be incomparable. It is the "show car" look.
For washing I have been using Turtle Wax "Zip Wax" car wash for about 30 years! It cleans without stripping the wax, and even helps shine a bit.
Good Luck and start right away before your paint can get spoiled.
vivona--Respectfully, I must disagree. My sister has a black SUV that she used Nu-Finish on. It did cause swirls in her paint after only one application. Over time, she kept using Nu-Finish. The more she used it, the more swirls she encountered. I could actually see the circular swirls in the clearcoat she made while applying it after the wax was removed.
Waxing, with any product, should be done in a back and forth motion, not circular, to reduce the potential for swirls.
I have had no problems with swirl marks on my clearcoat paint. But then it's silver so it is not as critical as a black car.
Mr. Vivona
I'm aware of the "consumer reports" study on car waxes. For the waxes they studied, they are probably right in their assessments. I'll spend a few dollars more for a higher quality wax than what they tested, though.
Silver won't show swirls nearly as much as black (or any darker color). I did use "nu-finish" years ago and ended up with the same swirling and lack of depth, shine, luster over a period of time. I'm not down playing nu-finish (or any other store bought waxes for that matter). I have just found better alternatives.
Thanks to all of you folks for sharing your insights and experiences.
Does anyone know what auto store carries it?
It is also available on mail-order through the web. Do a web search for Collinite Wax.
What's LG made off?
Kevin
Also, in simple terms how long does this sequence take for a brand new car for one coat of wax. I realize that any second coats of wax will probably require overnight drying of first coat.
I'm with Koury in wanting to baby a new LS, Estate Green. Can't wait to see how it looks detailed. More importantly, can't wait to have good protectant on her that allows less future maintenance time and worry free LSing.
Terry
Before waxing, I dry the car, then take it on the freeway up and back about 5-6 miles at maximum allowable speed to blow off as much water as possible.
In regards to Zaino outlasting Meguiars Gold Class or even Deep Crystal for that matter, I am willing to bet it does. For the record, when I am talking about outlasting, I mean durability, not shine. I will wager money that water does not bead on your car like it does on a car with "Z" after a couple of months. This seems to be a proven fact. I am not speaking from "Z" experience, but from Meguiars experience. I have tried all of Meguiar's products and thought they produce a great shine, beading is generally gone within the first month. This is the reason I don't use it anymore.
As far as you comparing your car to the "Z'd" car in the parking lot, you have to compare apples to apples. By this I mean if you park you car in a garage and he doesn't, your wax will last longer than it normally does. Also, if you wanted a more scientific comparison, you'd have to apply the wax at the sdame time he applied the Zaino. I am not sure if Zaino is the miracle wax, but it does seem like a good alternative to regular carnauba wax.
--Kevin
Although we are not supposed to talk about the "Z" polymer product here, I find that there are so many enthusiastic users that I am going to try it this weekend. Also - It has been around for many years - it is not another "As seen on TV" miracle wax.
After all, the reason we are here is because we want the best for our cars, right? If it means switching from wax to polymers or even to weasel spit - if it works, why not?
It is important to be open minded. Many here would have (and probably did) poo-pooed using a computer for email not too long ago!
Are any of you aware of special needs for German finishes. If so, what are best products and methods for caring for the finishes on German cars, particularly BMW?
Also, are products which specify they are for use on a particular make of car really better for that car?
Don't know where this comes from or why there could be a problem. If I learn any more about this I will post the information.