Zaino Car Care Experiences

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Comments

  • rizzo7rizzo7 Member Posts: 8
    Hi all. Love these Zaino products and how it makes my black 2k Maxima GLE look.
    Just wondering, those of you who use a chamois to dry your car after washing, how do you clean the chamois? I imagine you shouldn't be machine washing, but any insights would be helpful. Thanks.
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    I just throw mine in the washer and wash on delicate cycle. Been doing this for years and haven't ruined one yet.

    Outside watering is still banned here, so guess the Zaino will have to wait a while longer. Everybody pray for rain for central Alabama!!!
  • cole01cole01 Member Posts: 29
    Bought a New Black Lexus IS300 a few weeks past. I was told that clearcoat is not used on this, instead using 4 layers of black paint?? Didn't sound all that right. I have already put on a coat of the Wax Shop's super glaze wax, but was looking for a deeper, longer lasting shine. What am I looking at as far as Zaino?? Anyone know about the clearcoat question? If the car is new, would I still have to do the clay-bar deal before applying zaino? I guess the dawn would take my wax right off?? I take it I would have to use extra care when drying to avoid waterspots before applying product?? If a waterspot is on car, is it then sealed on and covered with zaino? Let me know what type of results and how long it will last in the hot, humid, rainy state of Florida!! Thanks.....
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    thor8 and cole01

    You can get a good description of what the clay does for you at www.erazer.com.
    It is of benefit on even a brand new car - I can vouch for that. My brnd new car got even smoother and slicker. A side benfit is that the polish goes on and off even easier and faster on a super-smooth car.

    Cole 01 - You will not believe how your black will look after 2-3 coats of Zaino. You can see some pics on the Zaino site, but seeing it on your own car will knock you out. It is worth it.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    According to the Edmunds New car site, clearcoat monotone paint is standard on the IS300.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    The above link should read-
    http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/7501/febbmw.html or for AOL users-

    Click Here

    fastdriver
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    For the fast response, I am going to place my order for Z2,12,14 and 18.

    I believe in a clear windshield without water spots, I have a cleaner that I found in a flea market that really cleans water spots, but I want to try Z12, it says it will remove the film that builds inside the car, I am having that problem, my wife says I used a rag contaminated with wax, my theory is, oily air from the engine compartment, Zaino claims is more pronounced in new cars, must be, the mercedes, porsche and bmw have this hazy film that becomes noticeable at nigth with oncoming traffic.

    I am ordering Z14, specially for the porsche convertible, the clear back plastic window is loading up with water spots, one has to be carefull because it will swirl easy, if anyone knows something better, please, I am all ears.

    Thanks again,
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    are not caused by engine oil or deposits on your rags, but by "offgassing" of the various materials used to make the interior of your car. It is a fairly well known event and does improve as the car gets some age on it. Most of the synthetic materials in your interior just exude some material which in homes or offices usually dissipate into the air, but in vehicles stay in the interior and deposit themselves on the inside surfaces of all the windows. There have been many suggestions, but no definitive answers that I have seen on this and other forums on this site. Get a good glass cleaner or make your own using one of the home remedies from here, clean the inside carefully and some have suggested using newspapers to dry the windows as a final touch. I think the real answer is to clean them as often as you need to, more often when new.
  • cole01cole01 Member Posts: 29
    Thanks for the info so far..I just find it hard to use dawn on my brand new IS300. Would I be using dawn twice? Once before the clay and again after? Do you think I should still use the no.5 before going to the #2?? Does this seem to protect the finish as far as front-end chips than a quality wax would?
  • gary_berggary_berg Member Posts: 28
    Chances are very good that you will get a benefit from using the Z5 even though your car is new. If the dealer prepped it and ran it through an automatic washer it probably has swirls.

    A good test is to wash it (or at least a section) and then catch a reflection of the sun in it. If there's any haziness to that, kind of spider-webby scratches, then the car will look much better after using Z5 and a coat or two of Z2.

    Remember to wait 24 hours between coats unless the temps are above 70F.

    If you use a Z7 mixture as your lube while claying you just need to rinse that off before using Z1 followed by Z2 or Z5. No need to wash with Dawn again.

    Dawn won't hurt the car, it just will take off every bit of wax on it. But not the Zaino; I think that requires alcohol.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    cole01-

    You only have to use the DAWN once! You can use the Zaino car wash when you are done claying.

    ONE thing Zaino does NOT do is protect against chips! Where did you get the idea that wax/polish protects against chips? If Zaino did that it would be written up in scientific journals AND my 300M would not have a hoodful of chips from everyday driving. ;-)) Sorry, if you thought that was one of Zaino's attributes.

    fastdriver
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    Thanks for the good explanation, I was leaning to find an reason along those lines, in my case oily air from the engine compartement, I never read any literature in that respect, and I pride myself in reading, mostly technical, science and history, but I am so aware of the old dictum, the more one knows, the more one realizes how little one knows.
  • daverosedaverose Member Posts: 233
    thor8 wrote: " ... I am going to place my
    order for Z2,12,14 and 18."

    You need Z1 to chemically set up your car's paint for the Z2. Since you're claying (Z18), you will need a lubricant. Z7 and distilled water in a spray bottle makes a good lubricant. Regardless, I advise not to use your Dawn wash water. I found that it reacts negatively with the clay causing it to become lumpy and to separate.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Thor8: daverose has vey good advice. Also, you should only use Dawn one - to remove old wax residue - before using Zaino. Then proceed to give that bottle of Dawn to someone who will use it in their kitchen. Like your wife, a friend, someone down the block, or (in desperation) a politican looking for a "clean look". The point is: only once.

    On Zaino Glass Polish: Its really great for removing that plastic residue film on inside windows. And also for really cleaning the outside windshield. But please note two things. First, its a very slight abrasive and will require some heavy duty rubbing. And second, the residue from the glass polish itself is a bit hard to get rid of. My method is to rub it off and then use Windex on the window to remove any remaining residue. In fact, after one application of Zaino Glass Polish, I just keep using good olde Windex. Maybe I use the Glass Polish one every 5 or 6 months.
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    I am glad to see that someone else has had trouble removing the glass polish. I guess for terminally dirty windows it might be the best, but for my windows, I didn't like it. In fact, it is the only Z product that I wish I hadn't bought. If I want an abrasive, there are several on the market, but Stoners glass cleaner ($3.98 with a $4 rebate at Pep Boys) seemed to me to work much easier and better. Could be that the Z cleaner would work much better on the outside of water spotted windows, but for the interior, I found it to be hard to use and thus violative of my rights as a severely lazy person.
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    Did anyone notice if Z12 scratches the glass?
    I hope Zaino products come with some literature and instructions.

    Then again I wonder, if there are any long term after effects from using Zaino, how long have they been in business, I have been reading nothing but good stuff around here, and the pics of the shine I have to admit are impresive, but, I have to say I have a cautious nature, specially if something is too good, and new to me. Wife says try in the old pickup before a new 70,000 car.

    And again, many thanks to all,
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    I don't think it scratches the glass at all, at least not in my limited use of it. I think that the products are of high quality and I don't think they would make a glass cleaner that scratched the glass. My complaint (and it is a modest one) is that it is not particularly easy to use and that the results do not justify the extra effort over many other quality glass cleaners.

    As to the safety of polymer finishes, polymers have been around for years and I have not heard of any cases where use as directed has resulted in any problems. I can't even imagine what problems they COULD cause. I suppose if you applied them over a dirty surface they could scratch, but that is hardly the fault of the product. No, I am pretty sure that it is safe, but even if it weren't, I am sure that Zaino, even though it is not General Motors could afford the price of a repaint. You would have a hell of a time proving it was their fault, but that is another story. Remember, although you get instructions here on how EXACTLY to apply the products, in excruciating detail, I am living proof that you can do it wrong and still recover from your mistakes with no damage done. I will attest that if you do it as instructed you will get the best results, but doing it wrong will still give you really good results and you can fix almost anything you do wrong with some common sense. Then you will want to do it "right" to see if it works as advertised so do it right the first time. Example--you must NEVER let the super gloss spray dry on the car. you must wipe it before it dries. But if you do let it dry, then you just have to (as shown on the bottle), spray it again and wipe while wet. No big deal. You must not try to wipe the z1 and z3 off before it is good and dry. But if you do, you can then wait until it is dry and wipe it off, maybe using some z6 (is that the right number for the super gloss spray?), wiping it off and starting over again. No big deal. If you screw up in some unfathomable way that no one else has thought of, well just call or email Sal Zaino and he will help you out. This is one benefit of this product that the owner is available to advise and direct easily. It is a very user friendly product, don't be scared by the precise methods posted here, they are just because so many want you to share in their discovery of how good your car can really look. It is not brain surgery, it is just "waxing" your car, and with little work at that. Have fun, don't be afraid to just do it.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    Zaino never has made any claims that it would make the "old pickup" look showroom new. Trying it on an older/weathered finish may not give you an accurate representation of what it will do on your vehicle.

    FWIW, I'm 10 months into Zaino on my White car. There is absolutely no trace of any yellowing or dulling anywhere on the finish. And I''m still amazed at how clean my hood looks, even during a week of rain and road slop.
  • altairaltair Member Posts: 3
    I bought my car new February 1999. I instructed the dealer not to wax the car and I was present during the final prep when I picked the car up. I immediated re-washed the car, clayed the car, washed the car, Z-1, and the Z-2.

    I regularly reapply and each fall I start over with clay and Z-1. I use the Zaino car wash, tire product and Zaino leather products. I have not tried the glass product.

    I have used all Zaino products on two cars for the entire period - not once using any other product.

    There have been no problems, concerns or issues of any kind. I have extremely happy with the performance of these products. They are easy to use, last a long time and look great. I especially like how the car does not really get dirty and when I wash it the dirt, grime, etc just doesn't really stick to the car.

    I have a bright red car and live in Houston so, long hot bright summers is what I face. Anyone concerned about the product yellowing over time should have **no** concerns based on my experience.
  • mbdrivermbdriver Member Posts: 426
    For all of you who drive around the block after washing your car to get rid of most of the beaded water, try the following -- a tip I learned from this very forum:

    After washing the car and completing the "final" spray rinse, remove the nozzle from the hose and then allow the water to flow gently onto the surfaces. You'll be amazed at how little water is left -- the slick Zaino finish lets the water slide off, and drying then becomes a simple matter that doesn't consume two or three towels or require multiple wring-outs of your Absorber.

    Let us know if it works for you!
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    But I believe it was fastdriver who suggested the drive around the block. I understand his reasoning, as I drive the same type car (Chrysler 300M - none of his problems though) and this car has a nasty habit of storing excess water in the rear view mirrors. Driving around the block gets that excess water out. But running the hose over the car really does work for the surface water. You can just about dry the whole car with one towel.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    My Honda also retains water after a good wash. I also open my doors, trunk, and hood. But somehow I always seem to miss a spot or two. The lug nuts on my wheels, the door handles, the ..... What a pain. Maybe I should beat a drum, chant, or recant what I've said about the Red Sox ("in the past").
  • thor8thor8 Member Posts: 303
    I use my yard blower, does a good job and wont pick up dirt from the road, carefull do not aim at the ground.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    But the neighbors sometimes look at me a bit oddly!
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    LOL..... I do all of the above things except that I have not used the blower method. I run the hose without the nozzle and then wipe off the car. THEN I go around the block to get the gallons of water out of the mirrors. When I get back home, I wipe off the excess water and then get another towel to clean the inside of the door jambs and the underside of the trunk area and the channels there. With so much Zaino on my Christine, none of this is a chore.

    Like I've said before, I'd rather wash and Zaino the car than clean the windows. I use the Zaino window cleaner too, but I use it on a dampened cloth. The problem is that on the 300M, you have to be a contortionist to clean the front and rear windows. I only clean them about once a month or when I can't see anything! LOL...

    fastdriver
  • joe_jensenjoe_jensen Member Posts: 27
    I've Zaino'd two vehicles now and I've had the some proble with both. First was a 2001 Yukon XL in dark blue and the second was a 2001 BMW 740iL in dark blue. I did dawn, clay, Z7, Z1, Z2, and then wiped down. The Z1/Z2 seemed very dry, and the residue wiped off cleanly, but it looked as though there was very fine water spots under the Z2. Narrow stips, almost like when you apply Z1, with some areas thicker than others. When I sprayed water on the area and rubbed, the spots would go away. My only conclusion is I am using too much Z1. I have about 2/3 left after one coat on each vehicle. BTW, I live in Phoenix and it's plenty dry and hot here...joe
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    I've still got more than 2/3 left after 2 Z1 treatments on my 300M and one on a 98 Taurus. Neither is a Yukon, I know, but that's still a fair amount of real estate to cover none-the-less.
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    try the leaf blower - it works really good on the 300M mirrors!
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    pjyoung-

    I'll try it, but it seems like more of a chore than just driving around the block. I have a wet-dry vac. The motor comes off the can to turn it into a blower. The lawn guy worries about the leaves! LOL...

    fastdriver
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,196
    Zaino will not remove water spots. My guess...there were water spots that dried on your finish (since AZ is very dry) before you got a chance to wipe them off and apply Zaino.

    I reallly don't know how to rectify your situation. I would call Sal and tell him that you are in AZ and ask him what he would suggest for getting the water spots off before "Z"ing.

    It doesn't sound like you used too much Z1 since both of your vehicles are quite large. Besides, using too much Zaino will not cause water spots. That can only be done by...well...water.

    Let us know what you find out.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    If you wet and rub off those 'water spots' then I think it was due to using too much Z1. Maybe it dried unevenly. But if the spots are still there under the Z2 layer, then graphicguy is correct and you should call Sal. Let us know. Good Luck.
  • jeepgcjeepgc Member Posts: 2
    I have a dark blue metallic Grand Cherokee which has been Z2'd twice after initial Z1+Z2 and the gloss is phenomenal...but after about an hour in my driveway, I would be dismayed to discover a layer of fine dust covering that wonderful shine. Finally got around to ordering and applying Z6 yesterday, and this morning after more than 12 hours with major coastal breezes blowing dust around, taaaadaaaaaa...NO DUST...yippeeee......very easy too apply as well, particularly after learning the "less is MUCH better" method of application. A few sprays of Z6 and wipes with the towel...Voila...lasting shine...the spiders weren't even able to get a grip to spin webs around the mirrors !!!
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    That is interesting since recently there was a post that said they felt that Z-6 attracted dust. I think that if applied properly (not too much and fully wiped off), it really makes for a great shine and slick surface which would make it harder for dust to adhere, but I am not sure I would go so far as to say (as some here have said) that it "repels" dust. That would require some sort of electrostatic effect and I am just afraid that it would lose that pretty quickly (certainly when I grounded the car by stepping into it). Maybe if I had such a dramatic improvement, I might feel differently. Actually, the thought of lighting up a toll collector with my charged car does conjure up pleasant thoughts. (Just kidding, toll collectors.)
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    I like to use Dawn to strip the wax, then clay my car, and then use Blue Coral's self drying car wash. It works pretty well, but you still need to use one towel. After that, I use the Polish Lok and a few coats Z1 which brings a very high gloss shine!
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Does Z6 attract dust? NO! But it doesn't repel dust either. So what gives? Z6 has many good properties: shine, UV, etc. And it contains a slight anti-static compound. That WILL help to minimize some dust. It seems that a static electrical charge on you car will enable extra dust to be attracted to the finish. With Z6 on the car, there will be less of a static charge. It will not eliminate static, but will tend to minimize it. Thus dust which is simply falling through the air will also fall on your car. Can't help that. But there will be less dust attracted due to static than before. And more good news, because Z6 will tend to make the finish a little more slippery, less dust falling through the air will actually stick to the car. But less is not all, and some dust will be deposited. 'Nuff said.
  • joe_jensenjoe_jensen Member Posts: 27
    The "water spot thing was not water spots before the Z1, I think it was unevenly applied Z1. When I use the applicator and apply Z1 or Z2, it is not really even. There are very fine ridges. I'm guessing that I am using too much product. Next car will get much less product...joe
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    A little hint: before applying Z1, Z2, or Z5, spray some Z6 on your applicator and work it into the pad. Then (say for Z2) slowly squirt the Z2 onto the pad in the form of a thin "X". Fold the applicator pad over and back a few times to distribute the Z2. Then apply by running the applicator over the target car panel in light even and overlapping strokes. Sort of like painting a wall. When doing this, I try to keep my eyes on the beginning spot at the edge of the panel where I'm starting an application stroke. Sometimes its just hard to actually see where you've applied the last stroke. These light slightly overlapping strokes will help keep the amount applied to a minimum and spread it out in an even fashion.
  • jeffmaxse2kjeffmaxse2k Member Posts: 38
    hear me out as this could sound a little odd :)

    I have a 2K Nissan Maxima SE...since day one I have had this mark on my windshield that for the life of me I cannot remove. The mark is actually the length of my passenger wiper and is located at the furthest travel point of that wiper so it is pretty good size 10-12 inches..

    The weird thing is that this mark is only visible when the windshield is wet, damp or fogged up with morning dew....the mark stands out perfect on the dewy windshield in the morning but disappears once the windshield drys up...you can just barely and I mean barely feel this mark(about 1/4 inch in wdth) if you drag your fingernail over it. Looks hazy like maybe some sort of nuclear wax :)

    When the windshield is dry you cant see it at all....but once it starts raining that annoying mark is right in my face!

    Well I've tried all the household products, Windex, Glass Plus, Windex with Vinegar and also the Armor All Glass Cleaner both with paper towels and newspaper...all have failed misreably...I've even tried some 3M Bug, Wax and tar remover(said safe for glass) and that did not dent it.

    I have had minimal success using a razor blade but I really dont like the idea of using it on my glass....

    I also did a pretty horsecrap job of putting on some really old Rainx that I'd love to get off my windshield...

    So.....should Z12 do the trick and will good ole elbow grease with it do the trick? What should I use to apply it with?


    Thanks
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    Z-12 is cleaner and a polish and will remove almost any stain from the glass surface.

    Z-12 is 100% safe on all factory glass. It contains a micro-abrasive specifically designed for glass. It will designed to deep clean and make the glass crystal clear and sparkle...

    Z-12 will also remove the plasticizers that attach to the interior glass. That nasty film you see. It will completely remove that in one
    application.

    Apply Z-12 with a damp cotton cloth. Do small sections at a time. Let Z-12 completely dry and then buff with a clean dry cotton towel. If
    there is any smearing or residue left. Just use Windex to clean off the excess polish residue on the windows. You can continue using Windex for maintenence, until the windows become dirty or hazy again. Then use Z-12 again.

    No need to use it all the time. I use Z-12 every 30 to 90 days to get the windows crystal clear. Then I maintain the glass with windex.

    Z-12 is not for use on aftermarket window tint. The aftermarket window tint are plastic and the Z-12 can scratch it......

    Hope this helps.

    Michael
  • larryk5larryk5 Member Posts: 25
    I have a white 01 Yukon XL with factory tint. Can I use Z-12 on the inside without concern about scratching? Just ordered today for first time. How long can I expect it to take if I wash, clay, wash and then Zaino with only 1 coat?
    Thanks
    Larry
  • cole01cole01 Member Posts: 29
    Just ordered the Z-1,Z-3,Z-5,Z-6,Z-7. I have a new black lexus with one coat of waxshop superglaze on it now. I will dawn it and then try the clay(I still have a bar of the mothers). Any tips or advise before I set forth would be appreciated. How many coats of Z-5 am I looking at before taking a few swirls and scratches out? How many hours do I wait? I will be putting it on in Florida with 80 temps? Is the applicator that zaino sends the best thing to put it on?? Can the applicator be reused? Thanks.....
  • cole01cole01 Member Posts: 29
    Can all these products be applied to plastic bumpers and trim???? Thanks....
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    Yes and no. DON'T put in on "textured" plastic. Smooth plastic is fine.
  • pbvgpbvg Member Posts: 6
    Do I need to wash with Dawn if my car has never been waxed?
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    If you are 100% sure it was NOT waxed before, you can just use car wash. But if you want to be safe, since some dealers or factories wax them already, I reccomend using Dawn.
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    I would recommend using the dawn AFTER the clay if you are using Meguiars since that clay is usually used with their gloss (quick spray wax) as a lubricant. If you do the normal Dawn-clay-etc, you will have that product on when you start the Z-1 process so you will have to dawn again. I tried to use zaino soap for the lubricant so I could avoid this and it caused the clay to get really greasy or unstable. It worked much better with the spray wax supplied with it. I am sure that Zaino Clay is made to use with their car wash soap as a lubricant, but the Meguiars (or it may have been Mothers, as I have used both and don't really remember) didn't like it at all as a lubricant and so it left some smears that made it much harder to use. May I suggest that you wash it with whatever you want (you probably have lots of different car washes as most of us did when we started using the Z products) then do your claying, then wash it again with Dawn carefully. Otherwise, try to use the clay with the Zaino wash so you can be sure not to "contaminate" the surface with some other product. Bear in mind that I am not the slightest bit sure this Dawn wash precaution is necessary, but far be it from me to stir it up or actually take a chance on not getting a good result just because I am being stubborn.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    pjyoung-

    Even more impressed! There is HOPE for Chrysler! ;-))

    fastdriver
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,630
    Something that works pretty well to clean crud off windshields, particularly "road film" that only comes into play in the rain, is good old-fashioned Coke. The first time I saw someone buy a bottle (the vending machines put out bottles in "those days") of Coke, shake it up and spray it all over the windshield of his car, I thought he was nuts. Over the course of two summers working the night shift at a 24-hr gas station on Route 66 in New Mexico, I saw several more people do it, and they all said it worked really well.

    Never had the need to try it myself, but you might want to give it a shot. The price is right.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • cole01cole01 Member Posts: 29
    Thanks for the info! If I use the clay after a regular wash and not a dawn, will it still cut through the wax to clean the surface though? I do see what you are saying about the spray wax detailer that is used with the mothers clay bar. Maybe I will have to dawn it twice?? Have you had good results with the Z?? What color car?? Thanks...
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    Sure, the clay will work over "wax" or polish or a polymer, but it might remove some of it, I am not sure. Since you are going to do it over again, what difference does it make? Not much. My only point was that if you don't mind dawning it twice, go ahead and do it to start and after the claying, especially since you probably have to wash it again anyway so the only difference is the "soap" you use. I just didn't want you to think that using dawn once before you started would take care of it.
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