Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 626 Troubles



  • chgergchgerg Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Mazda 626 ES with green paint. I know that the car isn't a spring chicken but I've had problems with the paint for the past couple of years now (and certainly there are MANY older cars out there with original paint in good condition). It started to get little hairline cracks in the paint - I took it to the dealer - he said sorry it's out of warranty. Over the past couple of years the hairline cracks have gotten worse and now the paint has oxidized (I think that's the right word). I called Mazda - they said it's up to the dealer. I'm wondering if anyone else out there has the same problem and if you've been able to successfully get Mazda to do anything about it. Just in the area where I live I've seen a half dozen other 626 Green cars that appear to have similar paint issues.
  • hi,

    i recently bought a used 626, and i took it for a long trip. when i was using the cruise control on the highway, the car would occasionally come out of gear, and the stick would pop in to neutral. i only noticed this happening when i used cruise control. does this seem like a serious problem, or is it nothing to worry about? otherwise, everything else in the car runs perfectly.

  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    I had acid rain damage the moment I picked up my car. I called the regional Mazda rep and demanded that my car be repainted. they stripped it all down and hand painted it. Unfortunately, it has not held up well either. Like me, my friend, we are both out of warranty; do not expect any simpathy from Mazda. They are losing enough money as it is in today's market. They are not feeling very generous these days.
  • worried1worried1 Posts: 2
         We just bought a 2002 626 LX three days ago. Didn't notice it at first, but I am really bothered by the whistling noise I hear while driving. From what I have read, it is the turbocharger. Is this noise normal or could it be an indication of trouble to come. It's not that loud but very annoying. We still have time to get out of this purchase, but we really like the car otherwise. My ears are starting to actually feel bad from the constant noise. Is there anything
    we can do to correct this?
    Thanks so much.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I've been reading a little in here and I was wondering if things being said about the 626's 2.0L engine apply to my 2001 Protege ES 2.0L also? I know they are the same engine, but the Protege is built in Japan and the 626 is built here. Was the 626 2.0L engine assembled in Japan? Are different vendors used for parts like O2 sensors, airflow meters, etc? Does the 2001 Protege 2.0L have a Ford PCM? Thanks in advance.
  • rotarykidrotarykid Posts: 191
    I believe that the 2.0 626 engine was assembled in japan. Some of the sensors may be from the same manufacturer, but the problem air flow meter on the 626 is from ford and the one in the protege (that we also had some issues with) is from japan. The pcm in the pro is not a ford piece.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The reason why I ask is because I went on a road trip to Chicago a couple weeks ago and my freind who was following me said my car smelled like rotten eggs quite often, especially going up hills.

    I don't know if there is a problem because there was no CEL and I got 32 mpg going about 80 mph the whole way.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You mention you can still get out of this purchase. Here is what I would do: Take the car back to whoever you bought it from and demand they fix the problem. If they do it to your satisfaction, keep the car, otherwise return the car and look for something else. If this is a used car, chances are that the previous owner was so annoyed by this problem, which nobody could fix, that he got rid of the vehicle (and lost a lot of money because the resale value of these cars is awful). Good luck.
  • rudeynarudeyna Posts: 1
    Hi! I have an automatic '94 the last couple of days my gear stick seems to be stuck every time I turn off my car. I have to turn the 'shift lock' every time I need to restart my car. it has 146k miles on it, and runs mostly great otherwise. any thoughts would be greatly,greatly appreciated!

  • worried1worried1 Posts: 2
    Just wanted to say thanks for the advice. Took the car back to the place we bought it and had them check it out. Turns out the car needed a new transmission. Thank goodness we were under warranty. Hopefully we won't have anymore problems!!!!
    Thanks again,
  • Somewhere between the lever and its actuator on the transmission body, something is out of alignment - probably the linkage itself. Nuisance, but not the end of the world, and fairly easily fixable.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    It seems that your idle speed may be too low. I do not own an automatic transmission car. Mine is a manual V6 and I do not have any problems as you describe. In fact smooth idling under all conditions is the best thing about my car. Your engine should be idling slightly higher with A/C on to compensate for increased load on the engine. I would try to increase the idle speed somewhat on the car. I am not sure if the 4 cyl version has a manual idle adjustment.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    I'm glad you got your car fixed. However, you have just replaced the worst transmission ever built with a rebuilt version of the worst transmission ever built. I am on my 3rd, although I will say, it is the best of the 3 so far. Maybe it has something to do with the "Rebuilt with quality by Ford" sticker on the side of my transmission (NOT!!)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Now I understand why the local Mazda mechanic told me that the best thing about my car was that it had a manual transmission. Mine is a V6 and no problems with transmission or clutch in 64K miles and 4 years and I do not anticipate any.
    However, there is no excuse for building crummy auto transmissions at this day and age. Ford has been making auto transmissions long enough to have them perfected - however, what they are doing instead is trying to make them cheaper, not better. I have a 1967 Ford Thunderbird with the original C6 heavy duty transmission that has never been rebuilt and still shifts perfect every time. How is that for comparison? The car is 36 years old! Seems to me that Ford could make great auto transmissions even better today. However, using computerized controls will not make up for substandard materials used to build a transmission.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    You are right. I think Ford has one last chance to earn any respect; that is with the new 500. If it turns out to be another slap-it-together-quickly Ford product, the competition is going to zoom zoom right by. It also will have a ripple effect on Mazda sales, of which many many 626 and Tribute owners are now snakebitten and don't need a any more reasons NOT to buy a Mazda.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Checking the fan motor is easy. Unplug the wires from the fan and connect two test leads directly to a car battery terminals and the fan motor terminals. If the motor is good, it will run.
  • flamazdaflamazda Posts: 11
    Hello, remote button stuck (got wet), evidently actuated the auto trunk release system many times in garage. Now, only thing heard when either inside release button pushed or remote trunk release button pushed is a clicking sound from under dash relay (?). Any ideas, thanks.
  • lpearce1lpearce1 Posts: 4
    Hey all, I just bought a 98 626 LX 2.0 AT, does this tranny suck too? Seems to be fine so far, car has 60k and I have no issues. Car needed an allignmemt as the test course at the Nissan dealer didn't provide for hi-way speeds, and the cruise was no working. (They nabbed an actuater off an Expidition! Ha!) Who cares, car seems nice, very clean well kept, paid $5900 Any concerns? (well, $6400 including the POS I pushed into the lot!)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Acording to some posts in Mazda 626 forums, these auto transmissions "have been improved over the years but are still far from bulletproof". Everybody recommends frequent fluid changes for these. I would also change the timing belt on that car, unless you have a proof that this has been done at 60K. I believe that 2.0 is an interference type engine so I would not take my chances with the timing belt on that one. Also , the 98 model and up does not have hydraulic valve lifters, so valve lash adjustment is required every 60K miles. I would also recommend replacing the spark plugs and spark plug wires at this time.
  • lpearce1lpearce1 Posts: 4
    Are you serious? Why did they do that? Let's go BACK in time? Just to cut costs I suppose, huh? Thanks for the info p100 - ;-)

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Mazda eliminated the hydrualic valve lifters to solve the ticking noise problems (instead of redesigning the hydrualic valve lifters). Worse yet, they use shims instead of screw type adjusters, which adds to the complexity of the procedure. Forward to the past indeed!

    The following quote from the Haynes manual # 61042 may be of interest to you:

    Valve clearance check and adjustment (1998 models) every 60000 miles or 48 months:

    "With the camshafts installed it is not possible to adjust the valves without a unique special tool set that, at the time this manual was written, is available only from the manufacturer. Aftermarket valve adjustment tools we tried in our shop did not work because of the tight clearances around the lifters on these engines. However, since the recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is the same as for valve adjustment, the do-it-yourselver can carry out routine valve adjustment without special tools by removing the camshafts while the timing belt is off."

    I have a V6 engine and do you know what this means:

    1. There are four camshafts on top of this engine.

    2. To access the rear head (transversely mounted engine) camshafts, one must remove the rear valve cover, which is not possible without first removing the entire intake manifold and all kinds of sensors and the throttle body.

    3. To remove the timing belt, one must place a jack under the oil pan (with a piece of plywood to protect the pan) to support the engine while removing the front engine mount so that one can slip the timing belt off and on.

    4. To adjust the valve clearance you need to buy an assortment of shims from the dealer.

    5. Removing and reinstalling four cams involves loosening and tightening dozens of bearing caps and then carefully torquing them to precise torque in a methodical sequence.

    6. Once you remove the intake manifold and valve covers, you will need three gaskets to replace.

    7. If you take the cams out, you might as well replace the cam sprocket seals. Also replacing the front crankshaft seal is a good idea at this time.

    8. Because water pump replacement necessitates removal of the timing belt, I would be tempted to replace the water pump as well as a precaution

    9. Replacing the timing belt tensioner would not be a bad idea either at this time.

    10. And since all the drive belts have been removed to access the timing belt, it is a good idea to replace all drive belts at this time too.

    Doing all this must be pure joy. No wonder the local Mazda dealer wants $ 525 for a timing belt change and valve clearance adjustment (this does not include belt tensioner or water pump replacement, or accessory drive belt replacement) And they have the special tools which eliminates the need for camshaft removal. If they had to do that, and replace the water pump, belt tensioner, and all drive belts, the service would probably cost $ 1000. I wonder how much the special valve adjusting tools cost.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    Can someone tell me how to adjust the headlamp on the 626 (1996)? I see the plastic wheel, but it appears to be only for the left and right adjustment. How do I adjust up and down? My new shiney headlamp (courtesy of Mr. Deer) is out of whack!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Your headlight was designed by the same people who designed your automatic transmission.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Thought I'd share my latest warranty repair experience.

    My '00 has been making a hollow knocking sound in the rear end for the last 2-3 months on bumpy roads, so I had the dealer take a look yesterday. They replaced the bushings on the sway bar links (no cost). Don't know if it's just wear and tear (hope not, because it's only 3 yrs. old), or if something caused damage. Unfortunately, the mechanic that did the work was not available to discuss it when I picked up the car.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    thanks P100. I ended up taking it back to the body shop that did the repairs. The owner's manual was of no help, and only states to take it back to a dealer to do the adjustment. It only took the shop 5 minutes to do, so it can't be that difficult; its just not apparent to me.
  • stevep12stevep12 Posts: 6
    Recently the heat shield for the catalytic converter fell (read: rusted!) off my 1995 626. Is there any real reason I should have this replaced?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The purpose of the shield is exactly what its name implies - to shield the car floorboards and carpeting (and wiring under the carpeting, if any) from intense heat produced by the catalytic converter. Replacing this shield should not be a major expenditure and I believe you should do it for your own safety.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Posts: 1,340
    I agree. There are over a half dozen heat shields on a car. That is the only one you really should replace.
  • stevep12stevep12 Posts: 6
    Maybe I should have been a little more clear. The shield that fell off is the part that faces the ground, not the floorboards.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    The purpose of this shield is to prevent accidental fires in case you drive off the road and park on grass. Catalytic converters get so hot that they have been known to start accidental fires when in contact with dry vegetation. This is why they added the shield on the outer side of the converter as well.
Sign In or Register to comment.