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Pls advise, Thanks,
Doug
A/T with the economy/power mode select.
Have had a problem which has gradually gotten worse.
From a stop, with light to standard acceleration, the 1 to 2 shift is accompanied by a huge BANG. It is like a SAM missile hits the left front of the car. Any possible "Hail Mary" fixes i.e.; band adjustment, governor replacement, sensor failure? Or is this the sign the Old Faithful is now swirling around the drain?
Am from old school, where you don't change fluid after 100,000 miles. So I'm a little learry of pulling the pan unless it gives up completely. The Dr's oath, first do no harm. Thanks!
ps: does this have a lock-up tourque converter? If so, does it have it's own wiring harness?
Thanks so much for the help.
Kathy
kathyk@cebridge.net
PGP
The car shuts off when I accelerate over 2750 rpms...going up hill or over 55. I have put on 2 used distributors. engine computer, new fuel filter, changed air intake hose (from air filter to engine) and it is still doing it. Check engine light does not come on.
I found out there are 2 types of distributors a small cam (0.4??) and a large cam(0.5??)could my mechanic put in the wrong size? is that possible?
I took it to the Mazda dealer and they say I need a MAZDA distributor? My mechanic disagrees...
Good Luck
PGP
Thanks
Tom
I have seen few mechanics, including Mazda service. Mazda suggested to change catalytic converter, which I did, but the problem is still there. I was trying to speak to the technician who diagnosed the problem, but they said that I have to come again for diagnoses and I would be charged again (£50)...
The symptoms of the problem are:
- Car loosing power under load, especially on higher revs and when it goes up a hill. The problem is worse when the engine is cold
- When the car is stationary, pressing on accelerator the engine works smoothly even over 4000 rpm. Car starts OK when hot or cold
- Car has stopped few times going up a hill with cold engine. After about 20 seconds the car would start and run like before (going hardly up the hill)
- On motorway can go up to 75 miles/hour
Parts that have been changed:
- spark plugs
- air filter
- engine filter
- Catalytic converter
Mazda garage suggested changing catalytic converter, silencer and pre-silencer. After changing converter there were not any improvements, so I did not bothered with the rest.
I would be grateful if someone can help.
Thanks.
I have the same car as yours and is dead since 4 months.the engine is not going on, at mazda they said it is the distributor, here (lebanon)I could not find the part,even used or new.I waited 4 months to bring from outside the country and it did not work.
I finally saw your posts.
PLEASE PLEASE help me. what is the crank sensor, where does it fit? etc...Because I exchanged the complete distributor with all what's inside and the engine still doesn't start.(No sparks from the plugs)
I do really appreciate if you can help.
Please Help
Can anyone help me with this question, please? I'm tired of asking my mechanics what’s the problem with my car and getting nowhere for they’re always giving me the run around and fix something other than the one I want to be fixed (female situation I guess )
Every time I start the car... first thing in the morning or after a few hours there’s a squealing sound. I believe it’s a belt but ‘m not sure which one. Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks!
I bought my 4th Mazda, a 2001 626 (4cyl, auto) and about a year later my 5th, a 2002 626 (4cyl, auto). At the time, I was under the impression that the transmission problems were solved, boy was I dumb for believing that.
The 2001 tranny died at 22,000 miles, under warranty thank God.
The dealer claimed "we've never seen a 2001 go bad"
The 2002 died last week. The car was 3 years old (almost to the day) with 60,000 miles on it. After much complaining and dealing, Mazda went from "you're on your own" to being so thankful that I have bought 5 cars from them they would cover half of the cost (what a treat!). What a ungrateful, arrogrant company. To make the story a little shorter, it cost me $2000 for my "half". I flat-out told them that this 5th Mazda would be my last if they did not cover the repair but they didn't seem to care. Bye-bye Mazda, I guess 5 isn't enough. I'd lay odds Mazda will be the next GM in a few years.
I've changed the plugs, wires and the ignition coil with no change. My next guess is a bad injector or fuel pump.
Let me know if you find anything on yours.
Thanks
Tony
I bought it with 49000 miles, but I never liked the way it ran...
Please help if you have any thought on this.
k-man.
thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/47/c1/09- 00823d801447c1.jsp
I now have a check engine light that goes on when accelerating at approx. 45-50 mph. It eventually goes away. When this happens, it sounds like it is missing....
Have any ideas?
We are having the same problem with a 2002, 626 with only 13,000 miles on it.
I just got to Greece and brought the Bosch MAF with me. When mechanic drew codes, no code for MAF showed , just a 181 which is oxygen sensor. Having previously pulled both 159 MAf and 181 Os sensor I had him install the MAF against his judgement. I then cleared the codes and told him I would bring O2 sensor next trip.
I pulled out of the shop and CEL came on one time ONLY.I REPEAT ONE TIME ONLY! I drove car all around at all speeds up to 85 MPH and it never came back on again.
My impression is the PCM might have been receiving errors from both, but changing MAF ONLY seems to have rebooted the PCM and for now at least car drives fine. I will be going up to mountainous regions in a few weeks and that will be the final test.
AT least to me, that shows how one bad sensor can influence another sensor and make it be out of range.
I will advise after mountain test.
Thx and I hope this helps someone else
PGP
P.S. People can do a search to find the entire saga if interested
Keep up posted.
Any advice Alcan or Mr Shiftright or any other knowledgeable person? Does this seem right . Other Mazda place thought it might be stabilizer links, and to wait till it gets worse to know definitely. Who to believe and how to test/find out ? If in fact, it is strut plate and bearings , will waiting cause any more serious damage .
Just a clunk/clink sound when turning wheel at rest like the CV joints which are now perfect.
Thanks again
Peter
Also, i was just wondering if anyone else has had any problems with their Bose CD player. When i bought the car, there was a CD stuck in the player (Black Eye'd Peas, yuck). The CD plays fine, but it won't come out. I was thinking it might be something as simple as a broken lever somewhere, but i've never fiddled with a car stereo before. It hasn't really effected me, as I use an mp3 player with a fm transmitter, but it would be nice to be able to use the CD player without having to take it to a mechanic.
Thx
Peter
I will try that tomorrow and let you know
Peter
Thats the feeling I get from the spring so I guess it isthe bearing thats bad. Mechanic said bearing and plate . Does that mean "strut mounting kit". I see bearing listed separately, a mount listed, and a mounting kit. I do not see plate and bearing separately and am afraid of ordering wrong parts.
Also is this a dangerous condition or can it wait for 3 months or 1500 miles max till I get back to USA and back,to get the correct parts?
Thx Again
PETER
Another option, order the mount kits and the bearings separately, then return the kits if only the bearings are needed. That way, you'll have all the parts necessary. Nothing more frustrating that removing the struts and disassembling them only to find that there are additional worn parts which you don't have on hand and which will require duplicating all the labour.If it was me doing this repair, I'd just go ahead and order the mount kits. Should include items 3, 4 and 5 as shown here:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801451d7.gif
A note of caution, a spring compressor MUST be used to disassemble the struts for mount replacement or that mount coming at you at about Mach 3 when the piston rod nut is removed could be the last thing you see.
Will also need an alignment afterwards.
My confusion lies in these 2 types of different sets sold.
This is the strut mounting kit #L3033-151212
http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1994&make=MA&model=- 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Mounting%20Kit&dp=false
and this is simply the strut bearing #L3035-103835 at the top of page and "Front Strut-Mate bearing plate" by Monroe not KYB at the same parts house (bottom of page )# TS902922.
http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1994&make=MA&model=- 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Bearing&dp=true
The Monroe set has some more parts but does not look like the identical parts as the "strut mounting kit". The mechanic said bearing and plate but was a little vague and had no printer, he just showed me the parts on a computer.
Does the Monroe set look like the right one to you? My guess is,that it is the right one and what is your opinion please?
He said it was 2 1/2 hours labor and I believe they have the correct equipment to do it. I am not going to attempt it myself.
Thx again
PGP
I have seen others have had this problem. Any solution?
Also, my driver's side seat belt won't retract properly and, as it's the one in use 100% of the time when the car's being driven, probably needs to be replaced. However, I can't see a way to remove the trim panels without brute force and don't want to risk breaking anything. Suggestions, please?
Carl Dombek