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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • bellewbellew Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Mazda 626 DX about 90,000 miles. About 2 was ago my daughter got in to leave school. When she put it in drive the car would not go. We turned off the I/I button on the gear shift and the car went into gear just fine. The car will go fine out of I/I then kick it in when you reach about 50 mph does fine ail you come to a stop or drop below 20 mph. If you put the car in drive and rev the engine in will pop into gear but the O/D light on the dash begins flashing.
    I have talked to about 10 differant mechanics about this problem,no one knows what it is! So I took it to Mazda to see what they had to say. They where not any help either. The only error code that turned up on the computer was a 452 code
    which was for a speed sensor. No one felt like this was the problem since this really has nothing to do with the shifting of the car.I have read in your postings similar problems with the 95 626Lx about that it might be a Range Sensor. Can some one please help me with this problem since it seems to be a tough one. Thanks Bellew
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The gasket itself is about a $35 part; figure an hour of labor at your local rate to install. Plugs are cheap. Plug wires, alas, are not. (A couple of dealers do substantial mail-order biz on parts like this at decent savings.)
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Actually, the VSS can have something to do with transmission mishaps - this tranny is electronically controlled, and the speed sensor is one of the devices consulted before shift decisions are made - but I think I'd look first at that O/D button and see if the switch underneath it is messed up. (One of the things the switch does is restore engine braking, something you wouldn't have a lot of in overdrive, so if the car seems reluctant to go - well, you get the idea.)
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    It is with great respect that I consider you as the Jedi-Knight of the 626 forum so I hope you can offer me some assistance with my power moonroof on my 94 626.

    The rear flapper works just fine but the slider doesn't work at all. Being that the flapper works, the problem must not be a motor issue. I've talked to a couple of Mazda dealers and they've informed me that it could be a snapped cable or that the alignment may be off. Nontheless, I was also told that if this were the case, the repair could run as much as $2k because they would have to completely disassemble and reassemble the moonroof all together to do the repair right.

    If possible, could you please offer me any insight about my moonroof problem. Summer is around the corner and I'd sure like to get it working without investing the big dollars. Thanks.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I heard $1400 for this same job, but then I live out here in the boondocks.

    The first question is "Is there a noise when you hit the Slide switch?" If not, I would consider the possibility that the Slide switch itself is simply not working. That (and the associated relay) would be first on my list of things to check, and I don't believe access to either of these things requires complete disassembly of the moonroof. (This is in keeping with my philosophy of "Check the cheap stuff first.")

    Now, if you do hear some activity, then they may be right, and they may indeed have to perform this invasive surgery to set everything straight.
  • godfather2godfather2 Posts: 13
    I don't have a Mazda but you seem to have a good general knowledge of cars. My question is in regards to my 86 Toyota Camry's windshield wiper mechanism. Every control works (i.e. mist, slow-wipe, and fast-wipe). Everything works except the intermittent mode. How could one out of four modes be isolated and not function, while the others do? I'm baffled with this mystery and your comment is greatly appreciated.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Not my specialty, but here's my reasoning:

    Each of those other three is a discrete switch position. Intermittent operation, as I understand it, requires not only a switch position but also a variable resistor of some sort to adjust the time between wipes. This is similar to the climate-control blower which, if its resistor goes, will blow at only one speed: high - which happened to me on the one and only Toyota I owned. ('75 Celica, for the historians.) Not a difficult fix, except perhaps for part access (if this thing is buried in the steering column).
  • sbea1sbea1 Posts: 2
    Mark , I hope it is not to late. hopefully you did not trade in your MPG. Contact A lemon Law attorney, Feel free to contact me for any information on how I went about the law suit. I have never sued anyone before . Honestly It is not right for you to take a loss . I also know of an attorney who handles consumer fraud. Now I am in debt by $3,00.00 on my 626 the transmittion went out, one week later the cat. convertor is going out! another lemon. contact me
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    Just wondering about the engine tick mentioned here so often. Bought my 626 3 yrs. back for 4K at an auction. At the time I heard the ticking sound and got kind of nervous but almost 90,000 miles later have learned to live with it.
    Is the only way to remedy this ticking problem is change the oil filter and synthetic oil ? is there anything else I can do and is this a serious problem ? One last thing - which synthetic oil should I use ? Thanx all,

  • avelectroavelectro Posts: 9
    My 1991 GT auto has become a real challenge: the engine runs fine but no matter where the shift lever is placed, the car will not move under its own power. After a few seconds, the HOLD light flashes. No strange noises or other indications, just no go. The electrical components in and on (solenoids, drum speed sensor, etc) the transmission check good according to my Mazda shop manual. After grounding the check connector the HOLD light will flash six times and then pause. I misread the book and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor @ $108 (ouch!) but now I realize that Code 06 points to the VSS circuit. I cleared the EC-AT's memory and tried again, twice. Same result. So I asked my friendly local Mazda dealer for a new VSS. The parts guy at first said "Huh?" and then told me "it must be inside the speedo and that costs $241."

    My first question is: Can this sensor really imobilize my car like this?
    Second: Could I be lucky enough to find it outside the instrument cluster or at least available separately?

    I just bought this car for my wife about two months ago. She is learning to drive so I chose an older car she would not be afraid to drive. It has 117,000 miles and looks great for a ten-year-old, especially for original silver paint in Phoenix.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Most VSS units are mounted on the transaxle, and you will probably find a wire that leads from the VSS to the speedo head.
  • vkatlurivkatluri Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    I drive a Mazda 626 ESV6, year 2000 model. It has roughly 30000 miles on it. I am having a strange problem for the past few months. Some times the car just won't start. I mean even the starter motor won't run. When I turn the key in the ignition, there's no sound or starting whatsoever. I had to get it towed to the dealer once just because it won't start. It happened about 4 times till date in the past 3 months. Thrice it started all by itself after waiting for 10-15 minutes. But the fourth time I had to get it towed. The version of the dealer was this: "The alarm went off some how which disabled the car and all I have to do is lock and unlock the car." Ofcourse I have tried that even before I went to the dealer and it didn't work. Did any body else have this problem? Please let me know. This is driving me crazy as I don't know at what moment this car will die on me and to think it's brand new. Thanks in advance for any help.

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Last time I heard of something like this, it turned out to be a relay in the engine compartment that had somehow gotten the idea that the transmission was in gear and therefore wouldn't let the starter operate. Since that idea usually comes from the neutral safety switch on the transaxle, well, that switch and the engine relay are the two parts I'd look at first.
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    I have a 99 ES-V6 that I bought new. I have 26000 miles & have noticed that infamous tick, which is quieter since I got my oil changed Fri. I have also noticed that it seems to make an odd "whomp-whomp-whomp" noise @ idle, it almost reminds me of a V8 ford mustang but quieter. Does this make sense? I guess you just have to hear it, kinda like the motor is rocking too much. Any ideas? I never noticed it w/ my V6 MX-6. Also, I am a dreaded car sales person & sold a girl my age a 98 ES V6 & she just called me & said her head gasket blew & the engine needs to be replaced (w/ less than 40k!!), has anyone had similiar probs? I've heard of tranny trouble but not a total engine blow!! I am a little concerned since I have about the same car. I hate trade, but I may before the warranty is up next year. This car is so much fun.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Well, since you don't have HLAs, it's not coming from the valvetrain, unless somehow the mechanical lash adjusters are already out of adjustment. Maybe you were slightly low on oil before the change.

    This engine doesn't have any particular propensity for blowing head gaskets, either. I mean, obviously it's possible, but it's not a common occurrence in normal operation. (My personal experiences don't count for much, but thanks to the Net, I hear from a startlingly-high percentage of 626 owners, and this is a rare complaint.)

    Is the idle jumping up and down (per the tach), or rock-solid?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,668
    So, the head gasket blew. Why does that mean that it needs a new engine?? I never heard of that. Either something else happened to it or she's got a mechanic that is taking her for a ride.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Or so Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers, would explain it. :)

    I've blown three head gaskets in my day, none on any Mazda, and I've never had to replace an engine.
  • mwaxkremwaxkre Posts: 2
    I am considering buying a 626, but I'm somewhat concerned about the number of messages in this conference about people having problems with the car (and I have also heard this elsewhere). I am pretty much deciding between a 626 and a Toyota Camry... anyone have any thoughts? Does the 626 really have that many problems? Is it worth it?
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I have about 2700 miles on my 2001 626 lx v6. The only problem is with the creaking windows when they are part way down. Not a major issue for me. Everything else is fine. Have yet to make a trip to the dealer unlike the experience with my Mazda Tribute which I traded for the 626. Engine and transmission are made in Japan, unfortunately the rest of the car is made by Ford Workers here in the US, so who knows how it will go.
  • sugarmagsugarmag Posts: 10
    I guess the dealership told my poor customer that there was also engine warpage, although they had not broken it down yet, and she said it had not been running hot. I think she may be getting mis-information, but the warranty people are investigating. To windowphobe - So my engine tick is not an HLA problem? I thought maybe I had figured it out!! It does it about 3 or 4 weeks after an oil change, & I am in a habit of checking my oil, every time I get gas, it doesn't seem to ever use any, & I get it done @ the dealer too. My idle is fine, although when I 1st bought the car the tach would go nuts and the car would hunt gears while cruising on the highway, I took it in to the dealer several times & could never get them to see it, then it just went away. Very odd. It runs okay, have noticed a slight hesitation here and there, of course that's almost a given in South Carolina heat!!
  • rpm9rpm9 Posts: 73
    I looked up reliability reports on and discovered that the 94 626 was the only year that was considered "worse than average" of the 93-97 626's. Is there any particular reason why the 94 over the other models did not fare as well? Aren't they all basically about the same vehicle? Is there a consipiracy against my car? Was Consumer Reports angry with Mazda that year? Will I survive through this disheartening news about my 94? Will I have to increase my medication again?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The only substantial difference between the average '93 and the below-average '94 is that the four-cylinder '94 comes with the CD4E transmission. (CR no longer breaks out I4 and V6 data separately on this model.) The only other change I can think of is the switch to R-134 in the A/C system.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    Well, it's not technically a Ford plant. The 626 (and the Mercury Cougar, for now) are built at AutoAlliance, a Ford/Mazda joint venture (previously a Mazda-owned plant, and before that a Ford facility, but we're getting into ancient history here) at Flat Rock, Michigan, southwest of Detroit. Since we're quoting Consumer Reports lately, it's worth noting that the 626 is doing consistently better in CR reliability scores than the Cougar, which suggests that either Mazda's designs or quality-control specs are somewhat superior to Mercury's, despite some common parts (the Cougar uses the CD4E tranny, and while Mazda provides its own engines, some North America-specific emissions gear is sourced from the locals).
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    The V6 has a friction gear on the exhaust-side cam, used to reduce noise that may be caused by brief backlash; it may simply be at the end of its adjustment range. It is not an indication of problems, merely an inadequacy in a noise-reduction system. (Julian Bradbury has written up a description here.)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,668
    What year are you looking for?

    You have to remember that you are going to hear more from the few people that have problems than the thousands of people that have no problems. That's true with any car.

    Personally, I've put 38,000 on my 99 LX-V6 automatic and haven't had a single issue. Oil changes is all its had. In my opinion, its the top car in its category. I tried all the others and the 626 is what I liked best.

    However, it really depends on what you're looking for. I found the Camry to be a softer ride. To me, that's bad (I prefer the better handling of a stiffer suspension). But, to somebody else, softer may be preferable. I also felt the 626 was quicker. I know the horsepower numbers don't support that statement, but there's more to it than hp numbers.

    The biggest difference is price. The 626 is less expensive. And I don't believe that's due to build quality, but rather popularity. The Camry is in higher demand and, therefore, commands a higher price, new or used.

    By the by, I just happen to be selling mine. ;)

    Like I said, its a great car for its category. I want to change to something smaller and sportier.

    Good luck with your decision.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • fzkongfzkong Posts: 1
    I am seriously consider buying a used Mazda 626Dx. It's a 95 model, with 80k mileage. Yet it's only priced at $3800. Test drive is OK. However I am little suspicous. Why it's priced so low? Maybe because of its transmission problem? Don't know.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,668
    well, that all depends. Is it the automatic?

    Even if you load that car up on Edmunds (which only shows automatic, A/C, and tape player as options), it comes back with a $3550 trade-in price. And, having an idea that Edmunds is generous on the trade-ins, the seller would probably be looking at around $3K as a trade-in. so, selling it for $3800 on the side doesn't seem all that cheap. Seems to me like that's a fair price for both of you (if its in good shape and everything is mechanically ok, as you suggest).

    If it doesn't have the auto, then its even overpriced.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I have always suspected that, since oxygen sensors tend to last no more than about 80,000 miles on these cars, someone unhappy with actually having to replace the miserable little widget will trade cars at that point rather than go through the process again - perhaps because mechanics (and nonmechanics, such as, well, me) tend to misdiagnose these things until they're blue in the face. Then again, the '95 automatic has OBD II; it should be perfectly obvious when an oxygen sensor goes.
  • patman6patman6 Posts: 1
    I noticed that my oil was very low. After getting my oil changed I decided to change my spark plugs. While doing this I noticed there was oil in at least 4 of the "spark plug access cylinders". The plugs were dry inside the engine, but there was oil on the tops and all over the socket I used. I think I let oil get inside one or more of the plug holes, so when I started it up it runs very rough and the engine light is flashing.
    I imagine I have a gasket problem, but what will happen if oil entered the spark plug holes?
    It's obviously not running on all cylinders. How bad did I flub up?
  • mwaxkremwaxkre Posts: 2
    i'm looking to buy a new 626... 2001
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