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everybody is here to make money.
even your kindself.
I had the 30K mile service (more like 33.5K) done about 2 weeks before the trip to Maine.
During the trip, the O/D light started blinking, then reset itself after I shut the engine off when I got to a gas station. The transmission fluid level seemed okay.
After two days (~300 miles), the O/D light came back on again... I pulled in to the nearest gas station since I needed to get gas anyway. This time the light did not reset and after a mile or so the check-engine came one. %$@$*%&!$
Check the tranny fluid... seems okay, maybe burnt?
Got it towed to the nearest Mazda dealership (~100 miles away!). Luckily the tow service was covered under Mazda's warranty.
Got it back the next day for the drive back home. The service mechanic said they "topped off the transmission fluid".
Drove it for ~10 miles and the O/D light started flashing again. Sigh.... I ignored it and kept on going!
It did reset itself and hasn't come on since during my daily commutes.
Interestingly enough the car drove just fine the entire time the O/D was flashing but I certainly was a bit concerned that the tranny might self-destruct...
I'll drop it off to the local dealer.
-Doug
If it's pinging on lower octanes, and premium cures this...you got carbon deposits in the combustion chamber (which effectively increases the compression ratio).
Try a can of BG44K with regular fuel (go on a nice long gentle drive), or pay over $100 for a decarburization service.
Definitely take it in to get looked at.
I had a local independent shop look at it and they first said they would try to just replace the clutch pack in the unit as this is what they felt was wrong. Unfortunately, there were no aftermarket replacement parts just for the clutch pack. So they had to order a new compressor unit(includes new clutch pack) from the local Mazda dealer to the tune of $360. With labor and tax the total bill was $516. It works like new again.
On a similar note, I was driving when the a/c went out in our 88 Olds Delta 88 at 178,000 miles. I also noticed the burning smell when it happened. With this car, repairing the clutch pack was possible. The independent mechanic wanted $300 and the old beater, now used by our 16 year old daughter, just wasn't worth the repair. So I got a shorter belt from Auto Zone and just bypassed the system.
Good Luck.
Evidently they didn't even test drive the car after making the "repair." It still rattles, of course, every single time I run it cold, just like I told them when I brought it in. Besides, anyone here who is familiar with the problem knows it isn't due to a loose heat shield.
One simple test drive after the car cooled off would have told them they didn't fix it right. Scratch that service department off the list.
Anybody else have any luck in finding someone with a solution to this problem?
"Here is a post from another forum I thought would be handy for all to see:
2.0L Engine Noise
This is what Mazda has to say about it, I think we should push them to come up with a fix faster, come on it has been a problem since the middle of 2000! What do you think? I would like someone to explain the jargon that they use VTCS plates? what are there function? What does ECT stand for and what is its function? Also they use the term "believed" to be the problem which means they are not sure or are trying to limit their responsability!
The dealer noted the noise and gave me a bulliten from Mazda.
Category: B Piston Engine
Repair Reference # 3562
Subject: 2.0L Engine noise with cold coolant temp
ALL 2.0L between 2001-2002 are affected
Customer may experience an engine rattle under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temps below 149 deg F and engine rpm's between 1500 to 2500.
Confirm noise only occurs within the VTCS ( Variable Tumble Control System) operation "valve closed" period (when ECT is below 149 deg F)
This noise is currently believed to be the result of the timing between VTCS plates "opening", and the ignition spark advanc command. This is an operating characteristic of this engine and no repair attempts should be made. Although the noise is present only during cold start up and disappears once the engine coolant reaches 149 degrees F, Mazda realizes that it is an annyance to some customers and its engineers are investigating possible countermeasures in an effort to address customer satisfaction.
Sounds like they are trying to get away from a recall and a problem that will or will not (they don't know)cause damage during warranty!
jcilforever"
I could definitely see it being pitched as such even if it isn't in attempt to avoid a recall, but I guess I'm pessimistic about such things.
Here's why I don't trust Mazda. I bought my wife's MPV in 2001. It was a 200 model. The thing had a heck of a time starting up. It was the same warm or cold. You'd turn it over once or maybe 6 times to start it. I thought the problem was a leaking pressure regulator. No. Turns out Mazda said they were aware of the problem and were working on "counter-measures". Nice, suddenly Mazda uses Black Ops lingo! We had the car for moths before they installed the counter-measures. Now it's usually 1-3 times to start it. SO, they introduced the car to market knowing there wa a problem and it took over a year to arrive at a "fix" that still does not work.
Don't tell me for a second that Mazda was not aware of the death rattle noise and a potential problem. The bottom line is that after calculating customer satisfaction v. cost, they were ab;e to take the "we don't care" approach. I'm not aware of any other engine making this noise.
I have a 1992 LX with the DOHC 1.8 engine, 158,100 miles. The other day I noticed that my temperature gauge was climbing considerably higher than normal (it's always been rock solid in the lower middle of the gauge once warmed up). The condition is worse with the A/C on.
I checked a couple of things...
1) Secondary cooling fan (in front of the radiator and condensor) is not running, when the temperature climbs or the A/C cycles.
2) I pulled the fuse from the on-the-hood block for the cooling fan and checked it with an ohm meter...fuse is good.
3) Coolant level and mix is good.
4) Primary cooling fan is running.
I'm thinking it's probably one of the following:
1) thermo sensor is bad (but the primary fan is running).
2) secondary fan motor is bad (how do I check this?)
What activates the secondary cooling fan when the a/c goes on? Is it a separate sensor or some other connection?
Can someone direct me to where the thermo-sensor is on this car? Should it register no resistance when the engine is hot?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA.
The thermostat is a heat-actuated valve that constricts/opens coolant flow. Typically, this part is replaced when you replace the coolant. If it doesn't work properly, coolant flow is restricted, allowing the coolant to overheat.
It's really the lack of the secondary cooling fan running that's the problem. I just don't know where the sensor is that makes it run.
Good suggestion, though, on just running it off the 12v source to see if it's functioning. I'll try that this evening. I'm going to forecast that it will run fine. I'm still thinking it's the sensor. The primary fan runs fine, though.
Does my Protégé have a defective engine or a broken engine mount?
Or is the engine vibrations I’m experiencing normal for the Protégé?
Is there a fix for this problem?
Thanks
Is the transmission auto or manual?
Is it more related to engine speed (RPM) or road speed (mph)?
Can you get the same vibration if you rev the engine in neutral?
If it's engine-speed related, it's probably bad or missing engine mounts. You might also want to check your engine for proper operation (not misfiring or prematurely firing, spark plugs are firing in the correct sequence or not firing etc.). The engine doesn't have any counterbalances to smooth it out. It is what it is. If it's shaking too much, there's something wrong.
If it's speed-related, you need to check:
1) Wheel balance.
2) Wheel roundness (check the tire and the wheel).
3) Alignment.
4) Strut and spring function.
5) Other suspension components.
Ron B.
The car's under warranty. Use it!
Meade
2000 ES
2002 Protege5
Since that post, I came to the conclusion that the engine was in fact running at the same temperature as always, but that the gauge was not working correctly.
If I would shut the engine off and then place the key in the "accessory" position (to activate the gauges), the temperature would be where it always was before this problem arose.
Here's where it gets interesting (or bizarre). The starter failed on Monday morning. A salvaged starter was installed and worked fine. And the temperature gauge works now, too. Go figure!
The service department inspected my car and told me that the severe engine vibrations I was feeling when I drove on the freeway is actually considered quite "Normal" for the Protege.
In fact, the service guy told me that I had one of the "Better" ones because there were other Proteges who's engines vibrated even worst than mine.
I guess there is nothing I can do about it for now except play the Beach Boys song "Good Vibrations" every time I drive my Protege!
Hey, do you think Mazda would ever be willing to let me test drive another Protege to see if they are telling me the truth about their engine vibration problem?
Meade
It'd help if you describe at what speeds and what the road conditions are. Since the suspension is tuned more stiffly than the mainstream accepts, road imperfections do come through more than in, say, a Corolla or Civic or Focus. However, it shouldn't be shaking hard on a smooth road.
Definitely take a few for a test drive and check them out under similar conditions.
A tire place once told me it was normal to get bad vibrations at highway speed (anywhere above 45mph they don't consider being covered by their wheel balancing service...what a rip). I replaced my (out of round) tires and never went back there.
I think all of the above could give you the impression of engine vibrations.
I *ahem* drove a little fast last night...something like highway speed. My Pro was rock solid (as usual)...economy car not meant to go "that" fast? HAHAAHAHAHAHAAHAHAAHAH!!!! Okie dokie.
I've taken a number of road trips, and often HAVE TO drive 80+ to not be a road hazard ;-) and never have my passengers (or I) complained about a harsh ride or vibrations.
I think your dealer is trying to get away without doing his job well - make them satisfy you! And definitely test-drive a couple of other (new and old) Proteges, there is always the SMALL possibility that it IS you, and that you're made for (without getting anatomically gross) more cushy cars like the boring Corolla/Civic etc. Although I doubt it!
Of course, there is the cold engine "death rattle", but that's a different story.
p_f: glad to hear you don't have the death rattle. Mazda says this is normal too, but it sure sounds and feels like something could be getting damaged and I don't know that I trust auto manufacturers on these types of things.
If it's not that, the only other time I get groaning noise from my brakes is if the pads are sticky (so the groaning noise is more prevalent on towards the end of the braking action when the relative speed between the pads and rotor is low...whereas the rusty rotor usually is noisy when you first apply the brakes and then goes away). You might try replacing the pads to ones with less organic material (such as kevlar or semi-metallic or semi-ceramic...but these can wear your rotors faster and can make more screechy-squealy noises) and resurfacing (machining...make sure they can do it w/o removing the rotor...results are better) the rotors to make them smoother.
Thanks, guys.
I drive it out for lunch, and I can hear the brakes scraping when I'm not even pressing the brake pedal. Definitely not normal. I take it back, the service manager goes for a spin with me, he agrees that something is not right. They have my car again for try number two.
And so it is that I've had my "umpteenth" bad experience at a dealer service department. If I had a nickel for every time a service dept. has either told me that something truly wrong is normal, or has failed to fix something right the first time ...
Something is not right indeed!
Your problem kinda sounds like warped rotors, but I can't be sure. Sorry that you're having so many troubles
There's a paste that can be applied to the faces of the pad shims that might quieten things for a time, but it's too much of a pain to use unless you're doing a brake job.
A light deglazing of the pads and taking the shine off the rotors may help.
So may changing the pads to a different type.
I just avoid doing what causes it unless I want to annoy my wife.
BTW Meade, I must have some mold in my '89 323's air system. I'll give the "Lysol" treatment another try before I disassemble the dash to get at the air ducts.
I suspect what started it was the warehouse-club-sized bottle of Armor-All I had once. I found a whole bunch of mold growing in it (sometime after I'd bought it), but not before I'd already applied it several times to the interior of my 323. That must've supplied enough mold spores to start them in earnest. I only got clued in when the pump sprayer stopped working. Plugs of mold were clogging it up! Disgusting. :P
So...avoid any plasticizer if you can. Mold loves to eat that stuff.
What poor quality work. They get a car with noisy brakes and didn't even inspect them - they just called Mazda NA who said that its normal for them to groan, and hand me back the car. Never mind the fact they make scraping noises even when not in use.
The problem? Leaky injectors. They leak into the intake, then when you start up the car and those intake valves open up, way too much fuel gets into the combustion chamber fouling the plugs a bit causing them not to spark properly. Eventually the excess burns off and the car runs fine. If the car sits for a while, the excess fuel evaporates and no problem shows up.
Of course, this happens in any type of weather.
Now Darren...do you honestly think they called anyone? The technicians on Mazda's technical line ask plenty of questions when the dealer calls. if they haven't even looked at it, the hot line tech will send them back to the car for a complete inspection. The technical hot line's job is to resolve issues not dismiss customer concerns like the regular customer assistance line.
BTW, the groaning and scraping I was experiencing is now completely gone. So, clearly, this was not the normal type of groaning to which MNA was referring. Again, clearly the fault of the dealer service dept. They didn't even apologize for the mistake, for making come back twice to get the job done right, or for sending me out in a car with brakes that weren't functioning properly. Dissapointing, but I'm sad to say it is not surprising.
My guess is that an inspection of the brakes never took place. My guess is that the mechanic took a quick spin, heard some groaning, and thought to him or herself -"This is just like that Pro we had in the other day (and get in all the time), the one Mazda NA said was normal (just like all the others we 'inspected')."