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Isn't there a way to test the computer without replacing it first? I know, more questions than answers, sorry.
60k(120k, 180k, etc)...pay the $180 and have the timing belt changed.
Plugs...platinum tipped plugs are my personal favorites.
Plug wires on the older Protege's seemed to go bad on me about every 45k or so, can act like a power loss or rough running condition.
Use a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every 10k or so (I like Chevron Fuel System cleaner with Techron...about $7)
Change your tranny fluid and coolant every other year
Hope that helps!
Regards,
Pete
:-)
Pete
Actually, I think he means the air filter, not the oil filter.
BTW, I will need drive about 60 miles everyday from now on. It is lots of miles will put on it. Thinking about buy a new one but as a student, $ is the big problem. So anyone could give me some idea how long Protege will live for this condition? 170K? 180K? or 200K?
Thanks!
39.95 once for the K&N vs. 11.95 every 10k for paper. I'll take the K&N and do my cleanings every 15-20k. Recharge kit only costs 6.95 at the local motorcycle shop and lasts 4-5 cleanings. K&N state a 2-4% increase in power using their replacement filter, but I didn't notice all that much difference.
Regards,
Pete
How hard is it to install a Spolier or the Windvisor on a Protege? I didn't get the options when I bought the car, but after seeing so many cars with these options, I drool. I want to make sure it is not going to be a pain in the butt before I shell out 400+.
p.s. speedypt, thanks for the maint. breakdown and parts suggestions.
Jim
I have a '94 323 that has been a really good car for me, runs great and I have had no problems. But I would like to improve the performance and looks a little bit. First, I always found the headlamps kind of dim, and a few years of winter driving has kind of sandblasted the surface of the lights. How do I get my hands on those bulbs I see in Beemers and Audis? I see some on ebay, but they advertise them as having like, 100 watts of output. That's not street legal. So, where can I get reasonably-priced super-high output bulbs that 1.) are street legal, 2.) actually produce a 'high output' glare and 3.) won't melt my headlamps/wiring? I'm in Ottawa, Canada, too, in case that matters.
My second question is tires. I have 14" steel rims on there now. What are the absolute biggest and widest tires I can put on these rims? I don't care if my speedometer gets frigged up. I want fat, wide tires. But I also want the proper clearance for them. Any ideas? I have no interest in alloy rims and stuff - I just mean standard type tires. I see the fat ones on VW Golfs and like the look.
Thanks in advance, men. I know you won't let me down.
Stalling: on an older Nissan (Datsun) that I owned, similar symptoms & it was the fuel pump.
'91 Protege LX: Tires at about 45,000. Bought original Yokahama's from Discount Tire Direct at $50.00 (delivered to my home); local Discount Tire Store installed with a lifetime balance for $10.00 each--once for $240.00. Thermostat at 48,000 miles--warranty covered. Oil changes using cheapest 10-30 at Target and Autozone filters every 3-4,000 miles(I do it myself): 20 at $8.00=$160.00. I tuneup (myself) at maybe $$30.00. That's it. I doubt I've spent that much in 245,000 miles: in addition to tires at about 45,000 miles, and oil changes--one complete strut change at about $45.00 per axle, one additional front end only, brakes at about $15.00 per axle, complete clutch (throwout, clutch, pressure plate, and master cylinder at 210,000--$850.00; cooling fan--$170.00; blower fan $50.00; repairs related to the electrical damage caused by cooling fan lockup $225.00, and two half-shaft replacements. That's it. The '98, of course, is practically new at 100,000 miles. Other than oil changes (I do now use Fram filters @$5.00 each, and a good 20-50 oil @ about $1.20/qt.) I have spent $0. No tires, brakes, struts. Oh, I take that back; I did change the plugs, rotor, and cap for, say $20.00. It should be kept in mind that most of my diving on both cars has been between Austin and San Antonio (essentially open road, although you will find many who disagree); very little in-town driving. Even so, however, I think these cars are the best.
My general response is to crank up the stereo a notch.
I agree with it being hard to find a reliable shop. I think sometimes cars unnecessarily see an early demise because of imcompetence or intentional sabotage to create costly repairs.
With the OBDII systems on the newer cars I would think it would make it easier to accurately diagnose problems, but I still read about hit and miss tactics being used costing hundreds of dollars in unneeded parts.
Also, in response to the "clunking" discussion:
We have about 400 miles on ours (2wks old) and I haven't noticed that at all. We've been shifting at less than 3000-4000 RPM all the time (break in period).
I'll check out the differential issue with my mechanic...or else maybe just get used to it. And you're right, it sure likes when I rev those revs...laugh..
VC
P.S. I will be looking for a new car in about a year. Would you recommend staying with a Protege? I'm thinking of the Chevrolet Prism....(do I blaspheme?)......
...and sometimes, just stopping and starting would make it clunk. my mechanic said that i was stuck with this "back lash" unless i wanted to do some trans work on it, which ain't cheap.
anyway, the noise drove me nuts. does it drive anyone else crazy?
i bought a 93 Geo Prism 5 spd, (only 60K) miles. it isn't as lux as the LX, but it has a sportier feel that's enjoyable while being hard to explain.......AND NO CLUNKING!! That Toto engine purrs and the shifting is seamless.
sorry, guys! if only it hadn't clunked!!
my wife has said she hears a noise from the front dash area on the driver side..but I've never heard it..
The second Protege is a 1999 ES 5-speed with moonroof and alloys (standard equipment now on ES). We still have this one. We bought it new in mid-1999. It now has 39,000 miles on it. The only real issue with this Protege was their choice of tire size and treadwear life on the stock Bridgestone Potenzas. We had to replace the tires at 33,000 miles, due to the tread life of the soft Bridgestones (although road grip was amazing on dry pavement with them). Then, trying to find a tire sized at 195-55/15 was a real experience. One tire dealer kept asking if I was sure of this size because he had never sold a tire of this size. He said 195-60s were common. We finally found a dealer with a huge inventory, and he only carried 3 brands in that size. The Bridgestones were too expensive and I hadn't heard of the two other brands. However, we opted for a set of Nokian tires that seemed nice, plus they cost only $108 per tire (Bridgestones were about 50% higher). So far, these tires have been fantastic on wet or dry pavement. They are also directional tires, so can't be swapped side to side in a rotation.
Overall, the Proteges have been great cars for us!
Have you ever noticed a "clunking" sound when you let the clutch out starting from a standstill? This can be manipulated to not happen if slightly slipping the clutch, but if I just let it out at a fairly brisk pace, there is a definite clunk. What about yours?
Does the clutch seem to hold up with just normal driving. Longevity wise that is. Since it a hydraulic clutch with no progressive feel the only way to detect clutch wear is by observing an increase in the amount of rpms required to achieve a similar speed as when new. I guess.
keep getting the engine check light. I was told it
could be a wiring problem. When I stop at a light, the engine rpm drops and feels like its going to stall. The engine check light comes and gos. Has anyone had this problem? Mike
My 1992 Protege was called "beige" but it was more of a champagne look. I loved that color as it hid dust and dirt pretty well. But that upholstery on the 92 LX was the stuff!!! Never seen anything else like it since.
fritz1224,
I really have never noticed the clunking sound you speak of when letting out the clutch briskly. However, I really never let off the clutch briskly these days so I may never encounter this clunking.
As far as the tires go, good luck! Those darned Potenzas don't last long and are too darned expensive. So far, the Nokian tires I spoke of earlier have about 8,000 miles on them and look good. They handle well in rain, too.
When it's cool out(around freezing - not necassarily really cold), at what idle rpm does the engine start out at? My protege can go as high as 2000rpm, dropping off 400 - 500 rpm after 45 seconds to a minute(roughly). But even after that, it's still running at 1500 or so.
I've been told by Mazda that my idle would not be too high. The main reason I care, is that I don't want to idle the car for a few minutes before driving it, and I don't want to shift the transmission into gear when the idle is 1500 rpm's or more. I have driven new Toyota's, Hyundai's in the cold, and their high idle is more in the range of 1200 rpm or so. Toyota for example, would prefer that the car was driven without an extensive idle period. Instead, driving the car at a reasonble RPM's until it warms up.
The Mazda sounds like a Cesna about to take off, and you really don't feel that you should even attempt to put it into gear. The service manager says that it's not unusual to warm up a car for 5 minutes. I told him that know one does that, unless they have a remote starter, or they start their car and go back inside their house. Any car expert will tell that extensive idling is bad for modern engines. Plus, it wastes gas and pollutes. With my Protege, I at least wait for the rpm's to make their initial drop before shifting into gear.
I really like my Protege, and this is basically my only really pet-peeve. So, does anyone else have an idle this high in cool/cold temperatures?
Ever since I bought the car(7 months), the interior door panels on the front doors, make a lot of noise if you happen to lean on them(or hit bumps in the road). The rear door panels do not do this, so I'm wondering if something wasn't quite done right when it was assembled.
All you have to do is slightly push up against the panels with your arm or hand(above the armrest), and they make annoying squeeking noises. It's sounds like a 10 year old car instead of a new one. Like I said, the rear panels do not make this noise. The front doors obviously get used a lot more than the back doors, but this noise has been there from the start.
I should of got the dealership to look at it right away, as they will probably attribute it to wear and tear.
Thanks
I went into my dealership and presented the problem to my service writer. An hour later, they had installed foam tape between the door's metal frame and the panel. The strip runs vertically from the top of the door to the bottom, inside the panel at the rear of the front door.
I pointed this out to them after walking out on the lot and trying pressing on the door panels of some newer 2000s, and finding that they didn't make the sound -- and noticing that they had this strip of foam tape sandwiched between the door panel and the frame. When mine came out of the shop, it had the same thing done to it.
I can only assume that Mazda overlooked the foam tape in a certain batch of Proteges that, unfortunately, you and I wound up with.
The happy ending? Nice, quiet doors that feel much more solid than they used to. The price? Covered under warranty.
Go in there and show 'em what to do.
Meade