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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 1994 5 speed protoge and it will go into gear but will not move anywhere, i have a book on the car but still can not figure out what it is.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    we had a '94 manual accord. we had a cv-joint go, so the cv-joint and "half-shaft" were replaced. the half-shaft was defective and left my wife stranded at an intersection. she could put it into gear, but it wouldn't move forward.

    sounds like a transmission, torque convertor, or driveshaft problem.

    is there transmission fluid in the transmission? can you move it in reverse?
  • It has gear oil, and won't go in reverse. It has a transaxle, and no torque converter. I'm thinking now that i maybe this transaxlle thing, but in the book it has a trouble shooting sections on transaxle, but does not have the same problems that i'm having (if it's supposed to be the transaxle).
  • ee74ee74 Posts: 13
    I have been having an engine misfire problem. When it first started, it would only happen for a couple seconds, the check engine light would flash then go solid, and everything would be okay for a few weeks. Then, over Christmas, I took it in to have the timing belt changed, and also had the plugs replaced. I asked them to look into the check engine light being on, and they said the code was "random misfire." They thought the new plugs would fix it. The next day, it happened again, only much worse. I had to shut the car off for several minutes and re-start it before it cleared. Took it back to the shop, which then replaced the plug boots and wires. It acted up again on the way home. They now say they will replace my coils, and that's the "only other thing that could cause this." Well, I'm not so sure based on their track record. Any guesses out there as to whether or not this will fix my problem, or what else it could be if not?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Sounds plausible. If you want to check for yourself you can use the service manual found at
    and ask the service advisor if any OBD (on board diagnostic) codes show up. Are you dealing with an independent garage or a Mazda dealership? In any case, best of luck!
  • ee74ee74 Posts: 13
    This is an independent garage. I've never used them before, but they specialize in foreign cars and they are very well-recommended. It is going back in today for the coil change; I'll find out Friday if it worked.

    Thanks for the manual link.
  • Had the same problem last year and they only chnged one side of the spark plug wires....needless to say the problem was on the other two cylinders and the problem continued until they admitted they only changed two cylinders. Once the whole spark plug wire set was changed I was problem free.
  • Get quite a shock from the door frame when you exit the car? Any ideas on where there may be a short?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,966
    This time of year I suspect that you're getting a static electricty shock rather than having an electrical short of some type. If it was short, you would get it every time you touched the frame. But since you mentioned you got it when exiting the car, that describes perfectly what usually happens to me a couple of times each winter when I slide out and WHAM, I get that zap in the arm. This almost always seemed to happen at the gas station for some reason, and I was at a loss to figure it out.
    But after a few experiments and a little observation I realized I was exiting the car just a bit different there than I was at home for whatever reason. The conclusion I came to was that if I exited the car and was touchingthe frame as my feet hit the ground, the static buildup was discharged without the ZAP. But if I got out onto the ground without being in contact with the frame, the charge was built up and the next frame contact would dischsrge it with that spark, usually as my arm passed over the door frame and right through any coat I might have on.

    Next time it happens to you, touch the frame again right away. If it's a one time shock, static is the culprit!

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  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    No short. I often get a serious shock this time of year. Just static electricity.
  • Hi ee74 ... I have a 2003 Mazda Premacy (I'm in Australia, not sure if you have this model in the US) and have been having the same problem. I had the timing belt changed and now this is happening all the time. I had it taken to an autoelectrician yesterday and one of the error codes was RANDOM MISFIRE. What happened? Did you get the coils replaced? THANKS, APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE =)
  • I have a 2003 Mazda Protege.

    Recently my battery died, my trunk was slightly open for a couple days and the light drained the battery. Got it jumped, now it will start on its own, the headlights, brake lights, automatic locks, and automatic windows work. The stereo, the dome lights, the fob to unlock the car, and the trunk lights however DO NOT work. Any ideas??
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Did you check the fuse box for blown fuses?
  • Hi All,

    Need help to order the proper Pressure Control Solenoid that going on the control valve in the tranny, The dealer isn't sure which one to order, I have the ode P0745 that points directly at the Pressure Control solenoid. I need a Mazda Part number if anyone has it or who I can contact to order this directly through. Help!!! Called everywhere and practically no one has any idea, quite funny and frustrating at the same time, the dealer parts diagram/list doesn't describe what each solenoid is...Talk about frustrating.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The reason the dealer is having trouble finding the part is that they would not attempt to replace the solenoid but rather the entire transmission. The valve body is a complex part and rather than having the dealers doing field service, Mazda chooses to have them install reman. transmissions (in the end it costs less) when the vehicle is under warranty. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can come up with a number, but just because you have a code, that doesn't mean the part is bad.

    Diagnosing a transmission requires taking line pressures (to find blockages), visual inspection of the fluid, and at least, taking the valve body cover and fluid pan off. If this is all new to you, I'd suggest taking it in.

    Do you at least have a factory service manual?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Anyway, the part number you are looking for is FN01-21-1L1A.
  • Thanks for the part number and information. I do have the huge Factory Repair Manual. I did the two troubleshooting tests of each solenoid, such as the resistance test and listening for the cleck of each solenoid. The Pressure control solendoid was not in the specified resistance range and the solenoid did not produce a click like all the other ones. I have a pretty good idea on how to replace it on my own, I have someone who has more car repair experience helping me at the same time. But, that part number is what I seriously needed to purchase the Pressure Control Solenoid...I appreciate your help.
  • The belt in my 97 Mazda Protege that connects to the alternator and the water pump keeps breaking and I'm not sure why. I've been taking it to Midas but they can't seem to figure out the problem. It has broken about six times now and each time they thought they had solved the problem. The last time they said that they realized that the alternator was probably freezing up and causing the belt to burn so I had them replace the alternator. It's only been a few days since then and the belt is squealing again and I know it's going to break anytime. This is getting extremely frustrating and I don't know what to do. Does anybody know what the problem might be? Please help me!
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Is the water pump original or has it been replaced? If replaced, then was it an aftermarket rebuild or a new Mazda water pump? Assuming that the alternator is turning fine and the water pump also spins properly and is not leaking, then you may need to check the belt angle from the alternator to the water pump. It is possible that a rebuilt water pump/ pulley is not at the right angle due to sloppy tolerances or wear. Someone else posted on this forum about such an issue. I believe they used a spacer to properly align the water pump pulley to the alternator pulley. If you search back in the forum you might find the post.

    For reference, I have a '95 Protege with the original alternator and 2nd water pump (new Mazda part) and no problems other than occasionally having to tighten the belt when it stretches. 204K miles and still going strong.
  • I have a 1991 protege mazda 323 with a dohc 16 valve engine 2 wheel drive and the timing belt broke going 55mph i need to know if this engine is a non interference or interference. can any one tell me for sure?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,496
    Don't think so. Chart at says no.

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  • i went to and i cant find this chart. I have read where other people thought they had interference because gates said so and come to find out it was non inter. wondering if there is any were else i can look
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Pretty sure the Proteges didn't have interference engines until the 2000+ DOHC 2.0.
  • bkiffbkiff Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with a 91 ; haynes stops at coil' did you find the problem .im stuck too' would like to no where to go
  • My dad has a 1997 Mazda Protege LX Sedan 4D 1.5L, and i have been looking for a Shop Manual for him. The regular manuals that are available to buy just aren't detailed enough and make the work slow and difficult.
    So i came across the post that had a full Shop Manual (, but i don't know if it works with the '97 Protege.

    I cant afford to pay for one off e-bay because im a starvin college student :) so any input is greatly appreciated...

    Also if the two aren't compatible....does anyone know where i can find one online or can someone e-mail me it?
    (">link title)
  • 0neal0neal Posts: 1
    My 5spd Protege's axles have been replaced. drivers side twice in last 3 months. I have a clanking sound when i accelerate. does it worse when it is cold weather. After about 15 miles it will usually cease. This is driving turns. I can accelerate slowly and am able to erase sound.. almost! This is very annoying. Could it be the "C" clip on axle? Any advice? Thanks. ONEAL
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    No, the two vehicles are totally different.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,966
    Come in out of the winter cold and enjoy some time with your fellow Mazda enthusaists and CarSpace friends!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

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  • ee74,

    Did you ever find the answer to your misfire? Mine's doing the exact same thing. Replaced both coils, all 4 plugs and the boots and wires. I even checked the injectors... all is ok. But, flashing engine light comes on (randomly) and I lose power, if driving. Any answers yet?
  • autonomous, did you ever get an answer to ee74's protege random misfire question? Mine's doing the same thing. Thanks.
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