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My point is any car can have issues, including the Protege. Statistically, as far as reliability, the Protege is better than most of the competition.
Pjd58
P.S. Depending how the car was driven over 90,000 miles, ball joints could fail on any car.
I think the engine usually has some vents on the crankcase...maybe it's this? I don't know. Either that or there is a small exhaust leak before the rear cat which might make sense. The only other thing I think it could be related to is the ignition system. The rubber on the plug wires has come off a little on the top by the valve cover. I'm going to change the plugs soon too. I have 34500 kms on the car so far so I think it's due for that. Let me know if you guys have had this problem before and what it was.
Better take it in. Quick way to see if there's mechanical damage is to lower the transmission pan and look for metal shavings etc. (not sure about this particular transmission, but most also contain a very strong permanent magnet to capture loose ferromagnetic bits of metal).
Recently, I've had a brief whiffs of coolant when accelerating hard. I just recently had my dealer replace the engine coolant. Wouldn't surprise me if they spilled a little somewhere and didn't wash it off.
Meade
Would you suggest taking it to the dealer? It runs fine now and i assume they willl just laugh at me and my story. As i might do if the roles were reversed.
Are you nuts? I would DEFINITELY and WITHOUT HESITATION take it to the dealer. (I assume you're still under warranty.) That way, even if they can't duplicate the problem in-house, they can document it so you'll have a chance if your transmission goes south after your warranty expires. Don't give in; I had a 1994 B2300 pickup (piece of crap built by Ford for Mazda) that had numerous engine problems. Even though my warranty expired at the normal 3 years/50,000 miles, they continued to monitor and fix these ongoing problems -- at no cost to me -- until I sold the truck with 118,000 miles on it.
Give 'em hell!
Meade
On grades, the AT can couple/decouple the torque lock-up as it senses torque in the transmission approach some limit. The lock-up mechanism activates below this threshold to increase efficiency of power transfer. It decouples to avoid damaging the transmission or engine by allowing the interface to slip (as in drive ratios 1,2,3 and OD). On long moderate grades, this can happen several times as the car's computer tries to maintain speed with the cruise control.
This happens with my AT, especially when transitioning from a flat (or downhill) to an uphill grade, or if I step sufficiently hard on the accelerator (as when coming out of a turn or curve or to pass someone).
Sorry for droning on if that's not the issue.
The bleed power sounds like a better discription than the slipping one i used as i didn't notice a shift in gears.. but rather i noticed the rpms going up rather quickly from the low 3,000's to the mid 6000's, over about 5 to 20 seconds, while maintaning the same speed. This seems a bit extreme.. almost like the car was severly overcorrecing...
Mddaffron... thanks for the correction.. sadly i even put some thought into it before i posted about 4th and 5th gears... guess that example conveys my lack of car knowledge better than anything.
thanks for the help
You might try taking it easy (no sudden accelerations/decelerations) for a while. The computer does try to learn your driving style and adapt to it. It may try to downshift more quickly to deliver faster responses to accleration demands, so it might make the acclerator a bit touchier. Still, take it in for a diagnosis. If there's anything wrong with the computer or sensors, they should be able to pick it up when they hook up to the computer. If not, then I'd check the sensors in the AT.
I'm none to impressed with my car, but recognized that even good manufactures can produce a lemon. No way will i keep this thing past the warrenty..
on this car. The factory exhaust rusted out and fell off the car a little after 3 years and the
Walker replacement done at a local tire shop is corroded and leaking after 2 years.
Does anyone know where I can find a stainless steel aftermarket exhaust or a chain who will
make me a stainless one? This is getting a little tiring.
Thanks
But now the problems start to show. The light stays on for longer and longer time periods. And when the light is on, the RPM sometimes starts to go up and down between 0 and 1. Quite a few times it reached 0 and the car just died. This happens most often during a stop. The most recent one scared me to death: As I was slowing down toward a red light and not applying the gas, the car suddenly died when it was still moving forward.
I took the car to a mechanic and he told me that the distributor is "leaking internally". I got two distributors from the junk yard and got different results. (BTW, my friend installed them for me. I am an idiot when it comes to mechanic stuff.) The first one was from a 93 Protege, when it was installed the engine light was off but the engine itself started knocking like hell. The second one got the same result as my old distributor. Nothing is improved.
My friend then concluded that this engine light problem is probably NOT caused by the distributor, but more likely by the fuel injection.
His reasoning is that since the problem seems to have something to do with temperature (when the car dies I have to wait for it to cool off for half an hour before I can successfully restart it.), and distributor is unlikely to be affected by change in temperature...
So what are your takes on this one? I'd really appreciate it if anyone can give me some advice.
The knocking may be the wrong dist cap/rotor combination or the rotor was not all the way on the dist shaft.
I have a '95 Protege LX with the automatic overdrive trannie.
According to the Haynes manual there should be a drain plug on the bottom of the gear case beside the filter pan but I sure can't find it.
Am I just blind or is there not one there?
I just bought the car and was trying to get some of the old fluid out and replace it with new. I'll replace filter, etc. when it warms up.
Thanks....
I wanted to raise the issue of the automatic transmission drain. If you bought the car used, how many miles does it now have? Do you know when (if!) the last transmission fluid change/replace.refill was carried out?
I was told by my Mazda service advisor (when I had my 60K services performed a year ago) not to change the fluid if I didn't know if the fluis had been changed before. Something to do with the new fluid being less viscous and oozing through seated washers and seals. However, I think not changing the fluid would do more harm, over time - so I am considering getting this done (or doing it myself, who knows!) anyway.
Opinions? (from others too!)
TIA!
I just wanted to get some fresh fluid in there to maybe keep things going til warmer weather gets here.
Quaker State sells a ATF Dexron II compatible fluid especially for Japanese automobiles. I don't know if its better or not.
Car is great on smooth surfaces, but in Washington, DC potholes abound! (Know the Protege has a stiffer suspension than most Japanese cars.)
Does the suspension loosen up over time, or can it be adjusted to be a bit less stiff?
Tire pressure is at 32 psi, the recommended level, should I drop that a bit?
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
Other than that, you're looking at new springs and strut cartridges. Mucho mas $$$$.
The theory bieng that I get more rubber between the wheel and the road which would allow the tire to absorb road irregularities.
Worked like a charm.
No difference in steering response at regular speeds, although it does feel a bit heavy during parking which I attribute to the wider tire, which is ok by me if I am going to get a smooooth ride over road cracks, manhole covers and road joints.
You can actually deteriorate both the longevity and quality of your tires and suspension by reducing or increasing the psi in tires beyond a certain capacity.
The recomended tire pressure can be found on the drivers side. Badging is either on the door or body panel. i think it's the door.
A lot of people that autocross, and keep sporty tires on all the time (including street driing) adjust pressure to vary the handling characteristics (at the cost of slightly extra wear, of course).
The engineer's do recommend a specific tire psi for a car as based on it's OEM tires and suspension tuning from factory. They do this based on what they feel is their design specification handling, ride characteristics etc. Notice i said OEM tires. BY altering the type and size of tires, this completely changes the equation. Also, it is a known fact that by decreasing or increasing optimal tire pressures (it is a range as you indicate) you greatly can affect the wear to your tires or put you at risk of tire blow-out or loss of control in emergency type handling circumstances. It also affects the suspension reactions.
Did that help clarify myself? I hope so.
You are forgetting ride quality. The tire pressure number is a comprimize taking into account variety of things some of which your mentioned. The major factor that most people care about is ride quality. While the suggested number is "optimal" for overall performance is is not optimal for my daily side wall bending runs onto the highway. I can actually feel the flex when I drop to 30psi. After 35psi I cannot really tell the difference except the ride gets harsher. The Dunlops SP5000 that come standard on the ES are fantastic tires for the money and 99.99% will not explore their limits. I dont because I'm not crazy but I like to play with them. If I were auto-Xing I would probably inflate them to around 50psi to get the sidewall stiffness. If I'm not mistaken the range for the 195/50/16 is 30-50psi. However, 50psi probably not so great for wet traction where a less stiff tire helps. I have tried a variety of pressures and for me 35psi works and my wife does not complain when she rides along. Another example is my wifes Outback Ltd. Its supposed to be 30F/29R. When the pressure is down that low the thing floats really bad making me car sick and it "waddles" at highway speed. She (nor I) cant stand driving it like that. I keep that car at 34psi all around because thats the way the wife likes it. When we are carrying a lot of stuff (>600lbs) across country I keep it at 38psi. When we had it on the beach I had it at 20psi all around for low speed crawling traction BUT I carry a compressor so I just raise if before getting on the road. Dont drive around on under-inflated tires!!!! Some people have quirks about the 3k oil change. I change my oil every 7.5k but check my tire pressures at least once a week in both cars.
Dinu
The car really is fun on open, curvy roads, and I still marvel at the interior fit and finish!
If it'll help you feel better, I own a 2000 ES myself. Unlike you, I have to drive the car, LOL!, and I have 33,000 miles on mine. I have not had any mechanical problems with the car at all. Also, this is our fourth Protege, and none of them ever had any mechanical problems. My 1992 LX went 83,000 miles without visiting the shop once for anything other than oil changes and scheduled maintenance.
Let 'em fix it under warranty. I doubt you'll ever have another problem. And like the other members said -- your car is far from being a lemon. Here in Virginia, you have to have the same problem with your car three times in 18 months -- and still unresolved -- for you to have a lemon law case.
Good luck, and enjoy your Protege!
Meade
My suggestion would be to keep the fuel tank topped (over 3/4 full) when you know it won't be driven much in the next 24-48 hours, minimizing the amount of air (and therefore water vapor) in it.
Or you could drive it a lot more! Hmmm, maybe this is all just my excuse for driving around a lot since my Protege5 is so much fun...
Intermittently (as in it almost never happens when I'm trying to listen for it) something from the rear of my car squeaks when I lightly apply the brakes. I suspect the drum brakes in the rear. I have only about 24,000 miles and the front disc pads appear to have about 33% wear left, so I doubt the rear drum pads are worn down. The other thing is I never hear the squeaking during harder braking, only light braking.
I don't think it's a big deal, but wanted to be sure it isn't by checking here. I suspect there may be accumulated brake dust in the drums that causes the intermittent squeaking. Any other possibilities?
Naturally, after I mentioned it here, the noise has gone away.
I am right at 60K on my 2000 LX with manual transmission and was wondering about the wheel bearings. Are they sealed or do they need to be re-packed? There is no mention of this in the user's manual.
Thanks!
As far as the whole air pressure thing, I don't mind the harsh ride to much. There is no way around it in Montreal becuase of all the pot holes so might as well have fun. Front tires are at 37psi, rears are at 35 psi. No abnormal tire wear due to this. The rear tires seam to be wearing a little more on the inside but that is becuase there is a slight degree of negative camber to the rear wheels. When I get new tires (soon), I'll be getting the alignment done.