Funny thing about oil and Recommended Oil Changes and the like:
Although I haven't read thru a Honda manual (will be purchasing my first this weekend), the comments about "Break In Oil" caught my eye. Not 100% certain that this is true of newer engines, but in the past (like when Mobile 1 first hit the market), it was suggested that Petroleum-Based oils be used in new vehicles as an aid to break in the rings and such. Apparently, the material of which the engine components were made, required a chemical make-up that wouldn't be found in Synthetic oils. If the rings and/or seals were not exposed to the petroleum based oils, they would never seat properly... I read that once and have no reason to doubt it.
Perhaps, that is what Honda means as a Break In oil...? They come with "traditional" engine oil or one of the blends...?
With regard to the interval at which oil should be changed (and you may find this very hard to believe), it has almost nothing to do with the car, itself, but everything to do with the oil that's being used and, more importantly, the oil filter. There are some engine oils that retain their viscocity for upwards of 20,000 miles. Other's might not make the 3,000 miles we all grew up with. It's important to recognize that this is for "normal" driving conditions which someone addressed earlier during this thread. But there can be a tremendous difference in the "lasting" power of one oil vs. another.
I was surprised to read years ago, that a combustion engine creates an acid within itself. That acid is, probably, chief among the reasons for engine failure - for this acid causes a break down and degradation of the metal components within the engine. This is why engine oil companies always speak of their product being a high-detergent oil: the detergent gets rids of the acid (actually, it neutralizes the acid).
With a Petroleum-Based oil, only so much detergent can be infused, or added to any given "quart". However, with the Synthetic oils, the amount of detergent that can be added/incorporated is so much greater. Because of this, Synthetics offer far superior protection - in ways that you may have never even thought about. (at least I didn't).
This leads to the filtration that is used and it applies, equally to both the Air and Oil filters. In addition to the acids that cause degradation of the metal components in an engine, we all know that impurities in the engine are harmful and cause scoring an other nasty things that throw an engine out of whack.
If you buy the best engine oil in the world but settle for a $3 oil filter, you're doing a real disservice to your car and your pocket book.
Consider this:
Most oil filter packages speak of their filter capability and usually refer to impurities in terms of Microns as a form of measurement. The best (and most necessary filters) on the market can trap impurities as small as 10 microns.
Isn't that remarkable?? :surprise:
It is, when you consider that the width of a human hair is 100 microns and anything in XS of 10 microns can do some real damage.
And it makes sense that the better the filter, the faster it will reach it's capacity Once that happens, the filter becomes quite useless and the oil will simply bypass the filter.
So, you see, a good synthetic oil, coupled with a great filter can actually make for more oil changes because the filter does it's job so well.
Side Note: Those Orange Filters that everyone raves about? Marginal at best
The same is true of the air filters - the more they let past, the more garbage you'll find in the engine that must be "refiltered", if you're lucky, with the engine oil (remember: it may not make if into the crank case which means it'll get stuck/burned onto a cylinder wall or someplace else that can cause problems.
Also, steer clear of those "high performance" air filters - the ones that guarantee more power? They provide more power by allowing greater air flow. That's a good thing until you consider the fact that, in order to allow for more air-flow, more impurities will likely get thru. A really good air filter should run at least $40. Bear in mind, that this is (should be) a Life-Time air filter that can be removed, cleaned and re-oiled.
Although we seem to have increased the interval at which we change the oil and filters, and, yes, it can certainly be deemed a waste of money if done too early or prematurely, think back to the cost of that car when you bought it and then consider the price of a "good" oil change (I do my own oil changes and it costs nearly $30 for a car that has a capacity of only 3.5 quarts).
If one is going to err on when the oil should be changed, do yourself a favor and err on the early side. It won't hurt a thing and it's a great way to a hands-on approach toward maintaining your investment.
When you say it cranks strong and hard but doesn't turn over, what do you mean, exactly?
The Starter is cranking strong and hard, but the engine doesn't turn over?
Or it just doesn't start?
If the former, my first guess would be an issue with the starter itself.
If the latter, it could be anything from a fuel filter to the plugs/wires or injectors.
Next time you fill up with gas, grab a bottle of Fuel System Cleaner and throw that in (Techron makes a fantastic product and it's about a $6 - $9 remedy you should routinely use).
Also, might want to consider a new battery before to long - is it the original battery?
I talked about oil leak problem of my wife's Camry 1990. Honda autos are very oil tight. At almost 200K miles 4 spark plugs of my Accord EX 95 were 100% dry when I changed them. But the engine burned oil. I guess some rings and/ or the cylinders/ pistons had worn out excessively. I changed the engine and transmission. Now, my baby Acccord runs again like..."an angel in Heaven". I have never got any oil leak problem with all my Honda. That's why I keep buying Honda again and again.
Garandman - that's fascinating about the analysis.
How much do they charge for such a service?
Also, I assume you ship the oil to their lab? How does that work? Special containers or something?
I've read about truckers and trucking firms doing this, but on a much larger scale, and I've always thought of doing it myself...
I learned about it in the Army, where we did it for M60A3 tank engines. Twin turbo air cooled diesels moving 60+ tons over hill and dale for a few hundred miles a year makes it difficult to calculate the appropriate oil change interval - and they used around 35 gallons per change, as I recall. The turbines in the M1's are a lot different (lighter, smaller, more powerful) but they still use oil analysis
I use www.natrib.com. You buy a kit with a small glass bottle that's used to take the sample. You can mail it to them - I drop it off. Think they're about $30 each. You need to tell them what kind of oil to use, etc. They send you a .pdf report that shows what kind of wear particles are present, and what it means. You can call the technicians and they'll help explain it as well. There are other firms, but National Tribology was local and has done a good job for us.
Thanks for the guideline...which I've decided to follow...my commute is 99% highway driving - 120 miles/day - so I'm going to go with Mobil 1 every 10,000 miles.
Now on to a different subject and please don't take offense to this (after raising 2 kids myself, now 25 and 23) - have your 16 year old pay for his own gas - his right foot might lighten up a bit....being only 16 and having a "really big heavy right foot" is not a good combination.....just my .02...
Hi, I just bought a 2005 EX V6. I thought the doors are supposed to automatically lock when you start to move I "think" I even remember them locking for the first few days by themselves. So, here is my 2-part question:
1. Am I a nut, or are the doors supposed to lock automatically? I can't find anything in the owners manual about it.
2. Is there some way I might have accidentally turn this feature off that I can turn back on?
I use www.natrib.com. You buy a kit with a small glass bottle that's used to take the sample. You can mail it to them - I drop it off. Think they're about $30 each. You need to tell them what kind of oil to use, etc. They send you a .pdf report that shows what kind of wear particles are present, and what it means. You can call the technicians and they'll help explain it as well. There are other firms, but National Tribology was local and has done a good job for us.
I guess it is stating the obvious, but if testing is really $30 a pop the money would be better spent just getting another oil change. I would rather change the oil every 5k miles than change it at 10k miles and also pay $30 for a test to be sure the oil change interval was not too long.
If the idea of a prolonged change interval is to save money you are not saving any with a $30 test.
Sir, I've tested each of the vehicles three times. I change the oil every 5K because we have two cars and three company cars and that way we can keep track of them all. We do the oil analysis about every 50,000 miles. So that's $90 over 10 years in the case of the van and over 8 years for the Subaru.
Jim, Welcome to the 100 mile a day commute. My wife has a 120 mile per day ride 99.9% highway. After owning German cars for years,love them but not the B.S. that goes with them I got a 2005 honda accord ex loaded 4 cyl auto for her to run. Well after 4 months and 11,000 miles it runs great, 34-35 miles per gal running within 10 of the speed limit. I have gone to Mobile 1 at 7,500 and will change it every 7-8K. Glad the car is paid for because we will run it into the ground. Hope 150,000 without to many problems. We put a set of Nokian tires on it this winter and it was better in the snow than my Toureg 4X4. Great all weather tires. Good luck with yours,see you at 200K.... :sick:
I pay less than $10 for my Used Oil Analysis. I have had it done 3 times on my wife's CRV and plan to do about 4 or 5 on my Accord to establish a trend line. I also pay for a professional interpretation from Dyson Analysis and have learned quite a bit about both vehicles based upon my wife and my different driving styles and commutes. Every car, driver and engine is different and the only way to KNOW what your oil change interval should be is to either change it more often than necessary or to do it based upon factual evidence. I plan to keep my cars more than 10 years and this is what works best for me.
I use the same oil (Schaeffer's 5W-30 blend that costs me about $2.90/qt) in both vehicles and I also add an ounce of Lube Control every 2K miles. The UOA's show that my wife's 2002 CRV-EX, which she drives 20 miles each way to work on the interstate, can easily go 12K miles between oil changes with hardly any wear at all. However, my 2003 LX 4 cyl Accord, which makes about 25 trips a week under 4 miles, needs to have the oil changed at 5-6K miles.
I could go with any decent dino and change every 3K miles and never worry but if you are going with extended oil change intervals and never doing a UOA then you won't know if you are really doing any harm or not. If you only plan to keep the car for around 80K miles then it probably doesn't matter what oil change interval you follow.
Who do you use for $10 a pop? See, that is in the realm of being cost effective VS too many oil changes. How much extra is the "Dyson" and how is that different from the used oil check?
P.S. With the addition of Pac Man Jones the fans at the coliseum will have a whole new choice in "costumes" for the games
You can email Dysonanalysis@netzero.com and get all of the info regarding Terry's analysis or go to bobistheoilguy.com and read about it (Terry Dyson is one of the sponsors there). Blackstone Labs and Dyson Analysis have a good deal where you get the analysis (including TBN - but you have to ask for the special Dyson Analysis package) and Terry Dyson's interpretation for $35. Terry Dyson will do an interpretation of any company's analysis for $20.
I purchased a prepaid package of 7 UOA's from Schaeffers Oil and I just take the sample and send it to them for analysis (however, their analysis does not include TBN) but it was economical way of establishing a trendline for interpretation. Although I use Schaeffers Oil in my vehicles I have sent other oil samples to them as well. You can shop around and get package deals like this from time to time at bobistheoilguys.com site.
I would recommend doing at least two and probably 3 UOA's and send all three (if you do them at the same lab they will usually list all three on the most recent analysis) and then send that for interpretation. You might be very surprised at what you can find out from this process.
Did you ever get your SRS light to go off? I'm having the same problem with my 2001 Van. The battery dead and when it was replace the SRS came on. The dealer what's to charge me $95.00 to fix this problem. I really think this is a safety issue that Honda is aware of, and just will not issue a recall.
I live in the bay area in California. The dealer here said that it's a known problem and all they're doing is lubing the windows which doesn't help. The technician has complained to Honda but no service bulletin for it.
If anybody in the bay area knows a dealer that can fix this please let me know.
Everytime I drive on a bumpy road it feels like the windows are going to fall apart.
Try San Francisco Honda (Market St. @ Van Ness). I've been lucky with my '04 EX-L--no rattles to fix--but a friend who has a '98 Accord received good service tracking down a rattle in one of his doors as well as a few other nominal problems and he didn't buy his car there. Give them a call to see if they're willing to try fixing it.
I've taken my car to S.F. Honda twice: once for the first oil change, and then for the driver's airbag recall. A few days later I received a phone call from the dealer asking if I had been satisfied with their service which was followed by an internet survey from Honda--both the dealer and the company appear to be very eager to please. It could be that dealers are rated by the company and receive rewards for good service.
Give S.F. Honda a try and let us know if they fixed the rattle.........Richard
And welcome to the Honda Accord....I have been doing this commute for years...and I'm on my fourth Accord....I usually put about 150k on each before I trade them in...and so far they all have served me well and I have no reason to doubt that my new, 05 EX I4 auto, will do the same. My last Accord - a 98 EX - had 160+k on it and all I had to do with it was to change the fluids/filters, tires, timing belt, brakes, and a tune-up here and there....that was it. And the 05 requires even less maintenance - no more timing belt - and except for the oil etc., a 110,000 mile major tune-up.....can't beat that.....Good luck with yours....you made a wise choice.
Hello guys...I was wondering if you guys could help me out. I purchased a Honda Accord EX V6 2000 about a month ago with 67000 miles on it. I got it for a relatively good deal ($10500). In about 2 weeks, I will be driving from the midwest (chicago) to LA. I had a few questions.... Just to be safe, should i change my oil? I do not know when it was last changed but I have put on 1000 miles on it since.
My main question however, is my mileage. I am obtaining probably 16 mpg in the city...and only 21 mpg when I drive pure freeway miles going about 80 mph.
The car is rated at 22/28. What is wrong? Or is this expected? When I drive in city I'm not driving that aggressively...and the mileage is killing me.
before i'd get overly concerned with the mileage, i'd look at some easy stuff: i'd look at the cleanliness of the air filter. i'd check the tire inflation pressure when cold i'd check my lead foot.
you know when they perform testing for EPA ratings, they do so at sub-highway speed limit speeds (maybe it's 40 or 45MPH or something like that). i'm sure someone will be able to provide a web-site or you can hunt around. if you're travelling 80...you can expect to be off the estimate by a fair amount.
i'd probably inflate my tires a pound or two above the door jam rating providing its well below the tire side-wall pressure rating = a trade-off being a stiffer ride. low tire pressure can negatively impact mileage. i'd make sure my air filter was clean as I said, and i'd drive a tank of fuel with more reasonable highway speeds of 55-65. i'd be careful during city driving stretches to be easy on and off the throttle.
i'd do those things first and see how my mileage compared to the numbers you've already got.
as for an oil and filter change, if the oil was discolored - me personally - i'd change it out with a fresh filter. before a first long trip in a vehicle without significant history and without knowlege of the last time the oil was changed, i'd want to see how much the vehicle used over the course of the trip and did it discolor rapidly.
There has been alot of discussion on how often to change the engine oil, but nothing has been mentioned about the trans oil.
I find it interesting that the owners manual for my 88 Accord says to change the oil every 30,000 miles!!! My 04 Accord says to change it every 120,000 miles.
Has the oil improved that much? My 88 didn't have any filter to replace, and I'm assuming my 04 doesn't either, so how do they make it last 4x longer?
I don't think I will wait till then to replace it.
Some new cars now come with "lifetime" auto trans fluid. Yep, no mention in the service schedule and when I called about getting it changed in my daughter's car the service guy said "we never change it" . Don't know if this applies to the new Accord or not - but I do question any "lifetime" fluid.....
I have a 98 Accord EXV6 sedan with a hair under 100K miles. I have all the minor maintenance performed at suggested intervals and have had no major problems. Had the timing belt changed at 92K.
Recently, I've been hearing a strange sound coming from the tranny when I put it in reverse. It's a whining sound as if something is spinning. The tranny seems to operate normally without hesitation, harsh shifting etc. I've never had any trans service or had the fluid changed. Is my transmission failing? Is there anything that can be done besides replacement? I understand the 98's are just outside the recall period of 99-02.
If it were my car, I'd have a Honda shop or transmission specialist listen to or diagnose it. It is extremely difficult for anyone on this forum to hear your perceived noise well enough to offer valid advice.
The doors don't have auto locks on them. I have 2005 LX and that was one of my questions I asked at the dealership. I have also read the Honda specs, there's no mention of auto locks on the doors anywhere.
Some silly modern cars with auto doors lock may lock you inside the car and honk the horn so loud to make you really embarrassing. Honda always thinks through real well when they do anything. No auto door lock with Honda but auto head lights off for 2003 model or newer after 1 or 2 minutes if you forget to turn it off after you leave the car.
Well....almost. That would seem to be more a function of an integrated alarm, which the Accord already has. I have had plenty of other cars with no ability to "lock you in and honk the horn" (they had no alarm) but they were able to lock the doors for you after reaching a certain speed, generally 15mph. Personally I would just as soon lock my own doors and don't really care one way or the other but I seriously doubt Honda didn't include it simply because they think things through real well. Why not have the feature be available but allow the user to turn it off. That would be the ideal situation and proof that they actually had thought about it.
>Some silly modern cars with auto doors lock may lock you inside the car and honk the horn so loud to make you really embarrassing.
Security systems will go off if the system has been set with a passenger inside. Opening the door would indicate someone had broken into the car without using the key or the remote to disarm the system.
I DON'T KNOW OF ANY CAR (other than police cars) where you can be locked inside. Ours has manual locks, and all you do is turn the manual lock button and voile you're out of the car.
As for locking and unlocking doors, ours is able to be set as to how the system handles auto door locking. I like the setting where it locks when I put the car in forward gear and unlocks when I put the car in park. Otherwise I use the electric button to unlock the door to let someone into the car if I choose not to put it into park. Works great. Wouldn't have a car without it. It's just another Honda misdecision supported by some who make an excuse for not having current features on the car.
The small piece of red plastic in the lower rear door of my '05 EX neither looks nor acts like a reflector, ( it has NO reflective material behind the lens.) Thats why I wondered if it should have had a lamp behind it. There is a provision for a lamp, but I think Honda wanted to save a buck and left it out. I ride a Trek 5400 carbon fiber bike and my rear reflector IS electrified as is a small red lamp on my helmet.
The backlight on my '03 Accord radio/clock display went out, but I have no idea how to fix it. I've checked all the fuses, but can't seem to find the one that works the display backlight. Of course, the fuse may not be the problem anyway, but I need some course of action. Can anyone give me some advice?
I had this happen on my '03 Accord (also EX 4-cyl) last year. My car was under warranty at the time, and the dealer replaced the stereo itself (not the display panel you see from the inside of the car). If your car is out of warranty, I would look at ebay or maybe a salvage yard. There were one or two complete units (display + stereo) that sold a few months ago for a couple hundred dollars on ebay.
Hello, all. I was an owner of a 1999 Accord EX V6 two years ago. The transmission was shuddering and American Honda Company was not going to replace the trani unless it shuddered harder! I complained to the dealer where the vehicle was purchased and they agreed to buy the car back from me as long as I purchased another vehicle from them. I purchased a 2001 Prelude (manual). Since then I have accepted a job where I travel 200 miles, daily. I needed a care w/ automatic trani. Being a dedicated Honda owner, I traded my Prelude in for a 2002 Accord (thinking the transmission deal was corrected). I've now had my 2002 EX V6 Accord for three weeks.
Low and behold, the transmission shudders. At 80 mph, if you drive up a slight incline and push ever so lightly on the gas, the vehicle starts to shudder (or bounce) up the hill. If you push the gas down harder the transmission downshifts, raising the rpms thus stopping the shudder. The dealer where the Accord was purchased hooked the car up to their diagnostic machine. The mechanic indicated that the EGR is not working correctly. He also test drove the vehicle and agreed that the car is shuddering and that there is a loud whining noise from the trani. The Accord is certified, meaning it is under warranty for 100,000 miles. The dealer replaced the EGR but contacted me to infom me that they ran into another problem. The car is not running right after they "fixed" the problem. They need to keep it for a couple of days to investigate. I am now driving an Impala, compliments of Hertz rent-a-car. Anyone have similar problems with their 2002 V6 Accords? Can the EGR cause shuddering? Any suggestions as to what I should do with this LEMON? I dont' want to get stuck paying for the dealer's hunk of junk. I tell you what...I should have looked at the Camary. Live and learn , I guess.....
I also have the Accord '02 V6. Sometimes I feel the tranny is not 100% smooth when departing and accelerating. Also, the tranny of my Accord 95 I4 was a bit funny but I just put in a newer engine and tranny of the Accord 96 and now it works real nice. I think the tranny of my Accord 02 V6 is above average and the car has lot of power. I like it. I do not like the Camry much as it is not powerful as the Honda. The Honda is better and better. I stick with Honda, the performance car. My new Accord hybrid 05 is a blast and so fast, so smooth.
Thanks. My car is still under warranty, but I was trying to avoid taking it in (It is the only car we have that we can put our baby in). I guess, though, since it would be free to take it to the dealership, I'll do that. Thanks for your response!
All the dealer will do is paint the hood and the bumper. I would just like my money back. This is the worst car I have ever had. I absolutely hate it. They took my list of concerns and will give me a rental car while they see if they can recreate the problems I listed. They will probably just tell me I am a woman and therefore nuts.I am going to sell this beast when I get it back.
While I was at the dealership getting my oil changed a lady came in with a dark green 99 Accord. The paint just above the windshield was peeling off. How does Honda get by with having such sorry paint jobs? What can I do ? All that I havent done is talk directly with the owner of the car lot. I tried when I was there but he was in a meeting with the door closed. Sure I believed the salesman. Huh? I may look stupid but I am not. In Florida there is a lemon law but it does not cover paint. I am just stuck unless somebody lets me know what to do.
I searched this board and didn't really find any comments about the seats in the Accord, so I felt the need to post. I have test driven three Accords (2005). The first was a coupe with leather, and after 20 minutes the seat was killing my back! I'm 6'3" and my wife is 5'0" and we were both hurting for about two hours after our test drive. We went back today, about three weeks later and drove a four door with cloth and then another coupe with leather. We weren't hurting like the first time, but it seems that even when you take away all the lumbar support using the lever, the seats still tend to really push on your lower back and cause soreness. I moved the seat all over the place and I never got 100% comfortable. I think the Honda is a great, reliable car, and a heck of a lot better looking than the Camry, and a million times higher quality than an Altima, but I don't want to buy a car to end up hating the seats. Anyone have any feedback they can share? Thanks in advance!
Yeah! I have read a lot about this topic, and this seems to be the best solution: link title So what happens is that, in order to connect the XM/ extra cassette/ mp3... to the standard Honda (btw this is also valid for the Acura TSX) you have an RCA connection going down. In order to connect the ICElink or whatever device you use, this will take away whatever aux device you have (XM/ cass/ mp3) That device translates the signals that will be sent by your iPod so that the Honda headunit can understand it.
-can't use the XM/ cassette/ or others that are installed by the dealer/ factory -need some time to install everything (remove panels and etc.) -the devices cost some $$$
I purchased a 2005 Ex with leather two weeks ago. I noticed the seats being a little firm at first, but now they are comfortable. They are firmer than many american cars. If you go back in these messages to previous pages, you will find a lot of comments about the seats. I asked the sales manager about this when I bought my Honda. He said it would not be an issue with leather, but apparently it is to you. I am 6'5" and my wife is 5'5". I have now put 900 miles on my car and they feel fine to me. The sales manager told me it was more of an issue with the cloth. He said that the american way is to make the seats spongy. He said that the problem with that is that the seats begin to look old after a few thousand miles. He said that Honda puts extra padding in the seats to prevent that and for the seat to hold up better. I think it may be the Japanese way of thinking versus the american. They are looking at the seats holding up over the "long haul" and american made autos are looking at the here and now.
Hi, I tried to take the top B-pillar cover off, but it's not easy. Did you have to slide it upward to take it off? And when you put it back, did you have to slide it down from above? I know there's an anchor somewhere in the middle near the top. Do you remember where are the other ones? Thanks a lot. TTB
can anyone tell me how to tell if a 02 sensor is bad? car was put on acomputer, but could not tell which one was bad by the so called mechanic, seems like they would have certain values in ohms, resistance etc., to go by. can they be checked with a meter? if they are bad, how much do they affect fuel mileage? any help would be appreciated.
My wife just took our '04 Coupe V6 in for service (15K). When shifting into or down to 3rd we often get a grinding. The mechanics found something wrong and ordered the parts. I'll post again after it has been repaired.
It might be a worn-out tranny. How many miles do you have on it? My Accord 95 EX I4 at almost 200K miles got same tranny problem and engine oil is burned. Now with newer engine and tranny it runs fabulously. I love it so much and expect to put in another 150K - 200K miles. It is a best way to save big bucks for not having to buy another new car while we do not need one for now.
I've re-read your March 31 post #10017 regarding your "defective" paint concerns, and cannot undertand why you will not accept your dealer's offer to refinish the small area(s) of paint damage on your hood. Your description of the possible way that the paint was damaged on your plastic bumper below your trunk "There are two black scrapes on the bumper. Dont know if I did it (your soft side suitcase) or if some one did it while it was parked at the airport." would not constitute a defect. Rather, most people would consider it to be an unfortunate accident, not the fault of the manufacturer.
In your April 30 post #10410, you said "While I was at the dealership getting my oil changed a lady came in with a dark green 99 Accord. The paint just above the windshield was peeling off. How does Honda get by with having such sorry paint jobs?" I cannot understand how you can equate the condition of the paint on someone else's six-year-old car that you have never seen before, to your own 2005 Accord's situation.
While I can understand your frustrations, I would counsel you to try to work with your dealer (or any other authorized Honda dealer) to resolve any warranty concerns. Good luck.
I am planning to buy a new 2005 Accord DX Value Package car. But I found this model only has 25.4mm front stabilizer(anti-sway bar),but no 14mm rear front stabilizer bar. Since Accord LX has both front and rear stabilizer bars installed,anybody knows is there any defects for DX VP without rear stabilizer bar?
You better buy the Accord EX or EX V6 or the best model is Accord hybrid. Try to shop around and negotiate real good with saleman. All Accords are cheap now. The price difference is not much but you get the best stuff with better SRS. Power for all Accord I4 models are same of 160 HP but you have some hidden nice part as the stabilizer bars. That part will help you tremendously on winding drives or at abrupt lane changes. The DX model has not much fancy features.
Comments
Although I haven't read thru a Honda manual (will be purchasing my first this weekend), the comments about "Break In Oil" caught my eye. Not 100% certain that this is true of newer engines, but in the past (like when Mobile 1 first hit the market), it was suggested that Petroleum-Based oils be used in new vehicles as an aid to break in the rings and such. Apparently, the material of which the engine components were made, required a chemical make-up that wouldn't be found in Synthetic oils. If the rings and/or seals were not exposed to the petroleum based oils, they would never seat properly... I read that once and have no reason to doubt it.
Perhaps, that is what Honda means as a Break In oil...? They come with "traditional" engine oil or one of the blends...?
With regard to the interval at which oil should be changed (and you may find this very hard to believe), it has almost nothing to do with the car, itself, but everything to do with the oil that's being used and, more importantly, the oil filter. There are some engine oils that retain their viscocity for upwards of 20,000 miles. Other's might not make the 3,000 miles we all grew up with. It's important to recognize that this is for "normal" driving conditions which someone addressed earlier during this thread. But there can be a tremendous difference in the "lasting" power of one oil vs. another.
I was surprised to read years ago, that a combustion engine creates an acid within itself. That acid is, probably, chief among the reasons for engine failure - for this acid causes a break down and degradation of the metal components within the engine. This is why engine oil companies always speak of their product being a high-detergent oil: the detergent gets rids of the acid (actually, it neutralizes the acid).
With a Petroleum-Based oil, only so much detergent can be infused, or added to any given "quart". However, with the Synthetic oils, the amount of detergent that can be added/incorporated is so much greater. Because of this, Synthetics offer far superior protection - in ways that you may have never even thought about. (at least I didn't).
This leads to the filtration that is used and it applies, equally to both the Air and Oil filters. In addition to the acids that cause degradation of the metal components in an engine, we all know that impurities in the engine are harmful and cause scoring an other nasty things that throw an engine out of whack.
If you buy the best engine oil in the world but settle for a $3 oil filter, you're doing a real disservice to your car and your pocket book.
Consider this:
Most oil filter packages speak of their filter capability and usually refer to impurities in terms of Microns as a form of measurement. The best (and most necessary filters) on the market can trap impurities as small as 10 microns.
Isn't that remarkable?? :surprise:
It is, when you consider that the width of a human hair is 100 microns and anything in XS of 10 microns can do some real damage.
And it makes sense that the better the filter, the faster it will reach it's capacity Once that happens, the filter becomes quite useless and the oil will simply bypass the filter.
So, you see, a good synthetic oil, coupled with a great filter can actually make for more oil changes because the filter does it's job so well.
Side Note: Those Orange Filters that everyone raves about? Marginal at best
The same is true of the air filters - the more they let past, the more garbage you'll find in the engine that must be "refiltered", if you're lucky, with the engine oil (remember: it may not make if into the crank case which means it'll get stuck/burned onto a cylinder wall or someplace else that can cause problems.
Also, steer clear of those "high performance" air filters - the ones that guarantee more power? They provide more power by allowing greater air flow. That's a good thing until you consider the fact that, in order to allow for more air-flow, more impurities will likely get thru. A really good air filter should run at least $40. Bear in mind, that this is (should be) a Life-Time air filter that can be removed, cleaned and re-oiled.
Although we seem to have increased the interval at which we change the oil and filters, and, yes, it can certainly be deemed a waste of money if done too early or prematurely, think back to the cost of that car when you bought it and then consider the price of a "good" oil change (I do my own oil changes and it costs nearly $30 for a car that has a capacity of only 3.5 quarts).
If one is going to err on when the oil should be changed, do yourself a favor and err on the early side. It won't hurt a thing and it's a great way to a hands-on approach toward maintaining your investment.
How much do they charge for such a service?
Also, I assume you ship the oil to their lab? How does that work? Special containers or something?
I've read about truckers and trucking firms doing this, but on a much larger scale, and I've always thought of doing it myself...
When you say it cranks strong and hard but doesn't turn over, what do you mean, exactly?
The Starter is cranking strong and hard, but the engine doesn't turn over?
Or it just doesn't start?
If the former, my first guess would be an issue with the starter itself.
If the latter, it could be anything from a fuel filter to the plugs/wires or injectors.
Next time you fill up with gas, grab a bottle of Fuel System Cleaner and throw that in (Techron makes a fantastic product and it's about a $6 - $9 remedy you should routinely use).
Also, might want to consider a new battery before to long - is it the original battery?
Good luck
How much do they charge for such a service?
Also, I assume you ship the oil to their lab? How does that work? Special containers or something?
I've read about truckers and trucking firms doing this, but on a much larger scale, and I've always thought of doing it myself...
I learned about it in the Army, where we did it for M60A3 tank engines. Twin turbo air cooled diesels moving 60+ tons over hill and dale for a few hundred miles a year makes it difficult to calculate the appropriate oil change interval - and they used around 35 gallons per change, as I recall. The turbines in the M1's are a lot different (lighter, smaller, more powerful) but they still use oil analysis
I use www.natrib.com. You buy a kit with a small glass bottle that's used to take the sample. You can mail it to them - I drop it off. Think they're about $30 each. You need to tell them what kind of oil to use, etc. They send you a .pdf report that shows what kind of wear particles are present, and what it means. You can call the technicians and they'll help explain it as well. There are other firms, but National Tribology was local and has done a good job for us.
Thanks for the guideline...which I've decided to follow...my commute is 99% highway driving - 120 miles/day - so I'm going to go with Mobil 1 every 10,000 miles.
Now on to a different subject and please don't take offense to this (after raising 2 kids myself, now 25 and 23) - have your 16 year old pay for his own gas - his right foot might lighten up a bit....being only 16 and having a "really big heavy right foot" is not a good combination.....just my .02...
Jim
1. Am I a nut, or are the doors supposed to lock automatically? I can't find anything in the owners manual about it.
2. Is there some way I might have accidentally turn this feature off that I can turn back on?
Thanks, Rick
I guess it is stating the obvious, but if testing is really $30 a pop the money would be better spent just getting another oil change. I would rather change the oil every 5k miles than change it at 10k miles and also pay $30 for a test to be sure the oil change interval was not too long.
If the idea of a prolonged change interval is to save money you are not saving any with a $30 test.
Dennis
Welcome to the 100 mile a day commute. My wife has a 120 mile per day ride 99.9% highway. After owning German cars for years,love them but not the B.S. that goes with them I got a 2005 honda accord ex loaded 4 cyl auto for her to run. Well after 4 months and 11,000 miles it runs great, 34-35 miles per gal running within 10 of the speed limit. I have gone to Mobile 1 at 7,500 and will change it every 7-8K. Glad the car is paid for because we will run it into the ground. Hope 150,000 without to many problems. We put a set of Nokian tires on it this winter and it was better in the snow than my Toureg 4X4. Great all weather tires. Good luck with yours,see you at 200K.... :sick:
I use the same oil (Schaeffer's 5W-30 blend that costs me about $2.90/qt) in both vehicles and I also add an ounce of Lube Control every 2K miles. The UOA's show that my wife's 2002 CRV-EX, which she drives 20 miles each way to work on the interstate, can easily go 12K miles between oil changes with hardly any wear at all. However, my 2003 LX 4 cyl Accord, which makes about 25 trips a week under 4 miles, needs to have the oil changed at 5-6K miles.
I could go with any decent dino and change every 3K miles and never worry but if you are going with extended oil change intervals and never doing a UOA then you won't know if you are really doing any harm or not. If you only plan to keep the car for around 80K miles then it probably doesn't matter what oil change interval you follow.
P.S. With the addition of Pac Man Jones the fans at the coliseum will have a whole new choice in "costumes" for the games
Dennis
I purchased a prepaid package of 7 UOA's from Schaeffers Oil and I just take the sample and send it to them for analysis (however, their analysis does not include TBN) but it was economical way of establishing a trendline for interpretation. Although I use Schaeffers Oil in my vehicles I have sent other oil samples to them as well. You can shop around and get package deals like this from time to time at bobistheoilguys.com site.
I would recommend doing at least two and probably 3 UOA's and send all three (if you do them at the same lab they will usually list all three on the most recent analysis) and then send that for interpretation. You might be very surprised at what you can find out from this process.
Did you ever get your SRS light to go off?
I'm having the same problem with my 2001 Van. The battery dead and when it was replace the SRS came on. The dealer what's to charge me $95.00 to fix this problem. I really think this is a safety issue that Honda is aware of, and just will not issue a recall.
Help..
Ebonyprobinson :mad:
If anybody in the bay area knows a dealer that can fix this please let me know.
Everytime I drive on a bumpy road it feels like the windows are going to fall apart.
I've taken my car to S.F. Honda twice: once for the first oil change, and then for the driver's airbag recall. A few days later I received a phone call from the dealer asking if I had been satisfied with their service which was followed by an internet survey from Honda--both the dealer and the company appear to be very eager to please. It could be that dealers are rated by the company and receive rewards for good service.
Give S.F. Honda a try and let us know if they fixed the rattle.........Richard
And welcome to the Honda Accord....I have been doing this commute for years...and I'm on my fourth Accord....I usually put about 150k on each before I trade them in...and so far they all have served me well and I have no reason to doubt that my new, 05 EX I4 auto, will do the same. My last Accord - a 98 EX - had 160+k on it and all I had to do with it was to change the fluids/filters, tires, timing belt, brakes, and a tune-up here and there....that was it. And the 05 requires even less maintenance - no more timing belt - and except for the oil etc., a 110,000 mile major tune-up.....can't beat that.....Good luck with yours....you made a wise choice.
Jim
Just to be safe, should i change my oil? I do not know when it was last changed but I have put on 1000 miles on it since.
My main question however, is my mileage. I am obtaining probably 16 mpg in the city...and only 21 mpg when I drive pure freeway miles going about 80 mph.
The car is rated at 22/28. What is wrong? Or is this expected? When I drive in city I'm not driving that aggressively...and the mileage is killing me.
Thanks in advanced for your reply.
i'd look at the cleanliness of the air filter.
i'd check the tire inflation pressure when cold
i'd check my lead foot.
you know when they perform testing for EPA ratings, they do so at sub-highway speed limit speeds (maybe it's 40 or 45MPH or something like that). i'm sure someone will be able to provide a web-site or you can hunt around. if you're travelling 80...you can expect to be off the estimate by a fair amount.
i'd probably inflate my tires a pound or two above the door jam rating providing its well below the tire side-wall pressure rating = a trade-off being a stiffer ride. low tire pressure can negatively impact mileage. i'd make sure my air filter was clean as I said, and i'd drive a tank of fuel with more reasonable highway speeds of 55-65. i'd be careful during city driving stretches to be easy on and off the throttle.
i'd do those things first and see how my mileage compared to the numbers you've already got.
as for an oil and filter change, if the oil was discolored - me personally - i'd change it out with a fresh filter. before a first long trip in a vehicle without significant history and without knowlege of the last time the oil was changed, i'd want to see how much the vehicle used over the course of the trip and did it discolor rapidly.
I find it interesting that the owners manual for my 88 Accord says to change the oil every 30,000 miles!!! My 04 Accord says to change it every 120,000 miles.
Has the oil improved that much? My 88 didn't have any filter to replace, and I'm assuming my 04 doesn't either, so how do they make it last 4x longer?
I don't think I will wait till then to replace it.
Mrbill
Dennis
Recently, I've been hearing a strange sound coming from the tranny when I put it in reverse. It's a whining sound as if something is spinning. The tranny seems to operate normally without hesitation, harsh shifting etc. I've never had any trans service or had the fluid changed. Is my transmission failing? Is there anything that can be done besides replacement? I understand the 98's are just outside the recall period of 99-02.
Please advise.
Thanks!
Gary
If it were my car, I'd have a Honda shop or transmission specialist listen to or diagnose it. It is extremely difficult for anyone on this forum to hear your perceived noise well enough to offer valid advice.
The doors don't have auto locks on them. I have 2005 LX and that was one of my questions I asked at the dealership. I have also read the Honda specs, there's no mention of auto locks on the doors anywhere.
Good Luck.
Security systems will go off if the system has been set with a passenger inside. Opening the door would indicate someone had broken into the car without using the key or the remote to disarm the system.
I DON'T KNOW OF ANY CAR (other than police cars) where you can be locked inside. Ours has manual locks, and all you do is turn the manual lock button and voile you're out of the car.
As for locking and unlocking doors, ours is able to be set as to how the system handles auto door locking. I like the setting where it locks when I put the car in forward gear and unlocks when I put the car in park. Otherwise I use the electric button to unlock the door to let someone into the car if I choose not to put it into park. Works great. Wouldn't have a car without it. It's just another Honda misdecision supported by some who make an excuse for not having current features on the car.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
acts like a reflector, ( it has NO reflective material behind the lens.) Thats why I
wondered if it should have had a lamp behind it. There is a provision for a lamp, but I think Honda wanted to save a buck and left it out. I ride a Trek 5400 carbon fiber bike and my rear reflector IS electrified as is a small red lamp on my helmet.
Low and behold, the transmission shudders. At 80 mph, if you drive up a slight incline and push ever so lightly on the gas, the vehicle starts to shudder (or bounce) up the hill. If you push the gas down harder the transmission downshifts, raising the rpms thus stopping the shudder. The dealer where the
Accord was purchased hooked the car up to their diagnostic machine. The mechanic indicated that the EGR is not working correctly. He also test drove the vehicle and agreed that the car is shuddering and that there is a loud whining noise from the trani. The Accord is certified, meaning it is under warranty for 100,000 miles. The dealer replaced the EGR but contacted me to infom me that they ran into another problem. The car is not running right after they "fixed" the problem. They need to keep it for a couple of days to investigate. I am now driving an Impala, compliments of Hertz rent-a-car. Anyone have similar problems with their 2002 V6 Accords? Can the EGR cause shuddering? Any suggestions as to what I should do with this LEMON? I dont' want to get stuck paying for the dealer's hunk of junk. I tell you what...I should have looked at the Camary. Live and learn , I guess.....
Thanks for any advice you may offer-
Tom
link title
So what happens is that, in order to connect the XM/ extra cassette/ mp3... to the standard Honda (btw this is also valid for the Acura TSX) you have an RCA connection going down. In order to connect the ICElink or whatever device you use, this will take away whatever aux device you have (XM/ cass/ mp3) That device translates the signals that will be sent by your iPod so that the Honda headunit can understand it.
-can't use the XM/ cassette/ or others that are installed by the dealer/ factory
-need some time to install everything (remove panels and etc.)
-the devices cost some $$$
I tried to take the top B-pillar cover off, but it's not easy. Did you have to slide it upward to take it off?
And when you put it back, did you have to slide it down from above?
I know there's an anchor somewhere in the middle near the top. Do you remember where are the other ones?
Thanks a lot.
TTB
I've re-read your March 31 post #10017 regarding your "defective" paint concerns, and cannot undertand why you will not accept your dealer's offer to refinish the small area(s) of paint damage on your hood. Your description of the possible way that the paint was damaged on your plastic bumper below your trunk "There are two black scrapes on the bumper. Dont know if I did it (your soft side suitcase) or if some one did it while it was parked at the airport." would not constitute a defect. Rather, most people would consider it to be an unfortunate accident, not the fault of the manufacturer.
In your April 30 post #10410, you said "While I was at the dealership getting my oil changed a lady came in with a dark green 99 Accord. The paint just above the windshield was peeling off. How does Honda get by with having such sorry paint jobs?" I cannot understand how you can equate the condition of the paint on someone else's six-year-old car that you have never seen before, to your own 2005 Accord's situation.
While I can understand your frustrations, I would counsel you to try to work with your dealer (or any other authorized Honda dealer) to resolve any warranty concerns. Good luck.
Thanks!