Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

infojunkie1

Inexplicably, our '00 Accord EX V6 spewed a horrible burning electrical-type smell from the vents when I started it and cranked the air conditioning. The smell was so overwhelming I drove with all of the windows down, and went straight to the dealer. It happened to be a Friday afternoon, and the dealer in San Antonio said that they couldn't look at it until Monday, by which time the smell had (of course) disappeared. Anyone have any idea what that could be?

xrwill

My 99 accord has a VERY leaky passenger widow (door?). It is coming from somewhere near that plastic cover in the very front corner of the window. It is driving me NUTS! I doubt it is a defect in the car (although the window seals do seem kind of weak) and I did buy the car second hand, so it is possible that the previous owner let the door catch the wind one day. Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this. Every autoshop I ask about it wants 60 dollars just to try and fix it, so I would really like to try and fix it myself.

onlyhuman

Bobst and Anonymousposts,

Thanks for the replies and the ideas. Any help is appreciated.

I’m not going to give up. I’m going to talk to someone at American Honda, someone at a body shop and maybe a lawyer to see what options I have. If you have any other ideas, let me know.

shyam

i brought a 2005 honda accord EX 4 dr and I noticed that after coming home, the green light is always appearing even when all options are kept off. Ex.. even when A/C is off, the marker which shows air flows direction(legs or face or back flow)..is always glowing..one of them will always glow..how to make indicator off? I was wondering is this a defect or lack of my knowlwdge..Please help..

dwynne

It is hard for us to "see" how little or how bad this is. Some folks are super picky and want everything to be "perfect", so this could be really minor and only bothers you. On the other hand, it really could be bad and any of us would find it objectionable. Pretty hard to tell from here which is the case

Take some pictures and post them some place so we can actually see what you are talking about. Then others could post some taken from the same angles so we could compare.

You do deserve a perfect car, but if it is really bad should have been noticed in your pre-deliver inspection or test drive???? I know I missed a dent/crease in the passenger door of a Previa I purchased for my wife years ago. Every time I saw that door it "haunted" me that I didn't catch it before we signed the papers. So now I am (even more) anal about going over a new car before signing the dotted line.

Dennis

sval1

Hi All,

I do have the same questions for my accord 97 v6 ex. But mu front door acctuator is gone.

Do I need to go for a specific honda actuator or a generic one?

sval1

incyphe

I'm not familiar with all the terms so forgive me if I use slightly incorrect terms.

When you press the brake pedal in Park mode, you will hear interlocking device disengaging below the shifter. It's fairly prounounced 'click' and you can feel it if you have your hand on the shifter. This is normal.

BUT if you hear 'tick' or very faint 'click' EVERY time you press the brake, and the noise comes from somewhere near the brake pedal, then it is brake light switch. Sometimes the tick is fairly pronounced, sometimes it's not.. sometimes you don't hear it at all. THIS IS NOT NORMAL. Honda would've never written this off as 'normal', so don't let your dealer fool you into thinking that it is.

Ask them to let you jump into other Accord on their lot and see it for yourself.

rfrf

Aside from blind judgement, does anyone have a benchmark to guage the distance between your back bumper and the front bumper of the car behind you when parking?

altair4

Judging from the marks on my wife's front bumper, I'd say most people use the "braille" method of gauging distance.

dwynne

Judging from the marks on my wife's front bumper, I'd say most people use the "braille" method of gauging distance.

dmitrya

Hello everyone,

I have EXACTLY the same problem as descrbed below (posted by some other users a little while ago), plus my mechanic doesn't now what it could cause the car to behave lile that. Any ideas would be appriciated:

RE: (Original post)
#10045 of 10228 Tachometer by bshaver Apr 03, 2005 (3:18 pm)

I have a 96 EX V6 with approx 125,000 miles (I bought it 6 months ago, but I know it had its 100,000 mile maintenance done), and up until a few weeks ago have had had no problems at all. However, recently the tachometer has begun behaving erratically.

Basically, the issue is that the tachometer begins to gyrate wildly. It starts off as just a minor twitch, but can be as bad as going from pegged on 0 to 4000rpm and back again in less than a second. Even when pegged on 0, the car still runs, and I can accelerate just fine. However, sometimes when it transitions to the 0 mark, I can feel a momentary loss of acceleration. The tachometer never goes higher than it should be at for any given speed. I have not noticed any correlation between external conditions (heat, rain, etc) and the problem occurring. However, it has become more frequent in the past couple of weeks, and now occurs nearly every time I drive. Additionally, it sometimes takes up to 30 mile of driving before it starts, but sometimes it starts immediately, and once it begins, it won't stop until the car is left to rest for the night.

I am not very knowledgeable about cars, but I want to know what the problem might be so that I don't get ripped off by a mechanic, or if it is something simple, I could try to fix it myself. Thanks for any help you can provide.
====

Thanks again

chucko3

Did the CEL light come on?
Are you filling with brand name gas? If not, try a brand name gas and high Octane to see if the problem goes away.

chucko3

Get Honda actuator. It's 70 bucks at Honda whole sale on-line. Free shipping.

whitecloud1

I would look at the coil or when the timing belt was last changed.

dkoch

bshaver & dmitrya,
I have the -exact- same problem as well. Let me know what you either of you (or anyone) finds out about this pesky problem--feel free to email. I unfortunately won't be able to take my car in to the mechanic until late next week. I'll post something if I find out anything more. thanks, Dan - dkoch@dwx.com

isellhondas

Neither of those things would cause that kind of a problem.

It's something quirky and it may be a tough one to pin down. I would look for a bad ground somewhere first.

whitecloud1

I was going to mention that also but didn't want to provide too much input. I had a similar problem with what I consider a lesser brand automobile where the entire guage console had to be replaced. They obviously considered it less costly than tracking down the electrical problem and I didn't mind because the car was still under warrenty.

mlewandowski

I have an '05 Accord EX V6 sedan, the red lamps in the rear doors do not come on when the doors are opened. I took a cover off and found nothing inside. Should there be a lamp there?

joe39

I pulled the 80A "Battery" fuse and got nothing, no start, click, or anything. I dont have a 40A fuse period and the 50A fuse I was thinking of was the IG fuse.
So, Ive been trying to find where this might have shorted and I just cant get to the wires as they run under the intake.
Question: if the alternator is shorted internally, what voltage might it put out?
My original reading of approx. 15volts might have been a little high. Upon further, closer inspection, I see that the alternator seems to be putting out about 10volts without any load.

rhodges2

The last couple weeks I have noticed that my air conditioner was not blowing cold air on my 2003 Accord EX V6. Yesterday I decided to take my car into Norm Reeves Honda in Huntington Beach, CA where I bought the car new for repair. I decided to get an oil change and service, and have the Transmission recall inspection done at the same time. The car has less than 10,000 miles on it so all the work except for the oil change should be covered under warranty. Much to my surprise when picking up the car the service technician informs me that the reservoir was empty of freon and they couldn't find a leak or problem therefore they would have to charge me $90.00 for Air Condition Service. I ask you. What kind of logic is that? They can't find the problem, so we have to charge you? I asked to speak to the Service Manager and pitched a major league b*#%h, and after a heated discussing of which I told him I would pay the $90.00, but he would lose me as a customer, and also the fact is that it was after 6pm and he wanted to go home that he relented and waived the $90.00. Even though I feel like I was vindicated. I can't help but feel like if I'm going to have to arm wrestle every time I take my car into service. Maybe I should buy a Lexus instead! Very disappointed in Honda Service!

janiebee

The single cd unit on my 2000 accord ex won't read cd's-just ejects. (message is PED).
I guess I'll have to replace it, since fixing it would be $$$. I would like a cd/tape combo
since I listen to books on tape. PC Richards said $399 (installed) but they said it wouldn't fit exactly, suggested dealer. Anyone do this? I'm in Queens NY. Thanks.

joe39

Ok, after more playing around, Ive figured a couple things out.
1) after replacing fuses I realize that I have a couple that dont match up and are larger than are specified. Of course, I didnt pay attention to this when I took them out, so I have no idea which ones blew in the past and were replaced by larger ones. I know, very stupid of me, but I bet Ill never do that again.
2) This is interesting. Started the engine with small connector in place, large lead disconnected. I checked the voltage coming off the alt. terminal and it was 0. Nothing. Then I just touched, and quickly removed, the large lead to the terminal and all a sudden, the alt. starts putting out about 13volts. No squealing, no problem. When I attach the lead the voltage drops to about 10volts.

So, without the lead, there seems to be no field. Once its touched, it activates or charges the field? I guess this may explain why there is no squealing at startup without hte large lead on. Theres no field.
So it again comes to the question of what could be drawing so much.

whitecloud1

I'd be ticked too. Jerk!. Should have offered to refill the freon and put a dye in the system and asked you to come back in a week after you run the system some. I would say all dealers are different and it doesn't sound like Honda's fault for the way you were treated.

janiebee

I was quoted over $1200 by my dealer! I ordered a new combo unit from Crutchfields
for $390 (includes installation).

badgerfan

It is probably just a red reflector, not a lamp. If you can't see light through the lense, then obvsiously it is just a reflector. I don't have an Accord, just a curious observer occasionally on this board, so I cannot confirm this.

lifebeckons

I recently bought a 2000 Accord LX, and am going nuts because of the wind noise coming from the driver side door. The noise starts at around 50mph and is very close to my left ear as I am driving. Anyone knows any fixes for this?

I read that you can glue some kind of foam at the top rear corner of the door to make it seal properly. Please help...

aztsd

I recently bought a a Honda Accord EX /navi 2005 and it's my first car. I am liking it but there's more road noise/bumps felt and my dealer told it's nothing wrong.
I just had this weird thing goin on and I thought I'll ask this forum.

I was driving on the freeway and my the volume on the audio was high (14 or 16). So the inside the car, it's really loud. So when I tried to take the exit ramp i tried to slow down , it slowed down but the brakes didnt work as smoothly.The car didnt stop smoothly, it was stop and go motion. I was gettin a vibration on my foot which was not letting my foot press the brake hard.
I have tested the car w/o audio and brakes work perfect.

Does it mean if we have loud volume the brakes on the Accord wont work smoothly?

timw

I am considering purchasing a 2003 V6EX Coupe. The CARFAX report noted the car had been in a wreck with air bag deployment and moderate damage. The vehicle seems perfect and is a dream to drive. My only concern is that the air bags may have not been replaced (a common swindle by fraudulent repair shops). Is there a easy method to verify the air bags are in place? Should I be looking for other potential damage?

I have pressed on the horn and noted little resistance. Is this a bad indication?

bobst

We had that problem on our 85 Accord and it was caused by a bad distributor.

Eventually the car stopped running. We replaced the distributor and things were fine.

rkon1

I have a '03 Accord EX 4cyl auto and have experienced on a few occasions has stalled on turns. Has anyone experienced this?

90acc

Occasionally my car will turn over but will not start. I have to wait 2 or 3 minutes and then try again. Sometimes it starts; sometimes I have to wait longer and try again. Usually it does this when the engine is warm.

My mechanic told me the car has to fail to start for him to diagnose the problem. So far it has not. Can anybody help?

jmaxe

I have an '04 EX-V6 and have never experienced this kind of problem. Sounds like your baby can't "walk and chew gum" at the same time. :confuse:

jess_nd03

I've just purchased a 01' Accord with 140,000 despite all criticism for the high mileage. I would like to have car's engine looked over to see if the regular maintance is up to date. What kind of things should I be looking for with an Accord at 140,000. Timing belt??? I also don't want to get screwed by a mechanic replacing unneccesary things, but want my new car up to date and prevent breakdowns. Also I've been noticing electrical issues, such as the electronic mileage gets screwed up and the radio goes mute for 3-4 seconds at a time. Any suggesstions are welcomed. Thanks!

bobst

Jess, do you have any service records for the car? If so, look at them to see if the timing belt was changed and when the last major service was done.

These days, it seems like new cars have gotten real cheap and service on older cars has gotten very expensive.

If you don't have any service records, you better find a good mechanic you can trust and you better have some money in the bank.

imidazol97

Find a good, trustworthy mechanic who does only Hondas. My neighbor buys used high-mileage Acuras. 90K and up. Then drives them to 300K. He's got 2 3.5RLs, Integra, and a Legend that a daughter keeps at OSU (Ohio State).

He drives about 15 miles to a Honda specialist. Spends a fortune on maintenance but they last him a long time.

rtml

I have the same problem on my 1990 accord. Do you know how I can do this myself or where I can find a repair procedure how to do it.

Thanks

viet

Hi you guys,

New Honda are cheap with low loan rates now. Go ahead buy a brand new one to "race". Or put in new engine/ transmission on your old Honda to "rocket" yourself on the streets like I do now.

My 95 Accord EX runs like...crazy in Heaven exceeding 200K miles now. It keeps running and running so loyal, so denpendable, non-stop, no complaints, no non-sense breaks. Just give it fuel, oil and other fluid and that's it. The trick is keeping good eyes on them to make sure it gets sufficient fuel/ fluid with good periodic maintenance.

atlantabenny

I would change the timing belt asap if there's no way of knowing when it was done last. A visual inspection won't do - a new-looking belt may snap anytime, with expensive ($900 plus) consequences. At 140k, the car would have been due for its 2nd belt change.

While that's being done, have the cylinders compression-tested. Small differences in psi between cylinders suggest the engine's still good; otherwise, you might need a ring or valve job.

Your electrical problems need to be checked by a competent automotive electrician; they're out of the ordinary for a recent vintage car (could be accident or tampering related).

If the repair tab and other findings indicate something seriously wrong, I'd attempt voiding the purchase for a refund.

chucko3

I would check the main fuel relay.

chucko3

It's only a reflector in my 03EXV6. I don't understand why Honda even bothers to leave it there when they decided not to put the courtesy light there.

ttb

Dear All:
It's a 2004 4 dr Accord. When going over rough road surfaces, or bumps, joints, potholes, ... some very annoying noise is coming from the B-pillar or front window, both driver and passenger side.
Does anyone has the same problem and know how to fix it?
I'd like to open up the B-pillars and the inside door panels to see what may be causing it. Does anyone know how to open these up?
Very much appreciated.
TTB

ttb

Hi,
Could you please kindly advise how did you take the inside door panel off?
And also if you know how to take the inside cover of the entire B-pillar off.
Many thanks.
TTB

killersmurf27

I have a 99 accord lx decided to do a tune up myself , the accord has 123000 miles put new sparks, wires,rotor. and dist. cap i got confused with the wire config but fix that issue now the engine turns but wont start i get spark from distributor cap and fuel to the engine i even went as far as putting all the old stuff back on but the engine turns but still wont start.. ill be taking it to the shop tues if no one can give me advice... :confuse:

rcc8179

This is kinda hard to explain without visuals, but I will do my best. I had a rattle coming from this area in my '03 Accord. The plastic piece behind the B-pillar that moves up & down with the seat belt anchor point (about 2 inches by 6 inches) was rattling against the pillar trim and the metal behind it. I put some felt tape on the inside of the pillar trim around the hole and on the backside of the plastic piece. This seems to have stopped that noise.

To remover the B-pillar, you have to take off the upper anchor point for the seat belt. There is a cover over the seat belt adjuster that must be removed first (squeeze the two buttons and pry the cover off). This will expose a bolt that anchors the seat belt to the B-pillar. Once you remove this bolt, you can remove the B-pillar trim. You will also have to pull back some of the weatherstripping from around the pillar (grab it and pull inward toward the centers of the door openings.

Good luck.

richards38

Your car is under warranty and the dealer should fix this.
You shouldn't have to take a nearly new car apart.....Richard

viet

Right. "When it aint break dont fix it". Also, it is under warranty so you better take it to the dealer ASAP. Dont take it apart yourself or you will ruin it. Most rattle issues are mechanical and any Honda dealer can fix them real quick. My son's EX V6 03 also got rattle around the dash board/ driver side. I took it in the nearest dealer and they fixed it immediately. They put some more noise-absorbed stuff underneath the dash board, etc. The service guy told me when I called in "It's just a mechanical issue...". Good luck.

blane

chucko3:

I'm surprised that you don't understand that the red reflector that Honda installs on the lower part of your rear doors is for safety. It reflects drivers' headlights, as they are approaching from your rear, so they don't slam their vehicles into your open door. It's the same reason that there are red reflectors on the rear of bicycles and on the rear of their pedals.

No need for either to be electrified.

glockuser

This problem appears to be not all that uncommon. My mother has a 2004 Accord that is 5 months old. About 2 weeks ago the A/C stopped working so she took her car to the dealer that does all her service work. The dealer told her that a rock had hit the condenser through the front grill and that wasn't covered under warranty. Total cost of repair - $550. Has anyone else had this happen to them and more importantly, is there something that can be done to protect these parts that Honda decided would be a wise idea to put in the very front of the car with no protection???

Any help would be appreciated.

Paul

bimmer4me

"My 95 Accord EX runs like...crazy in Heaven exceeding 200K miles now. It keeps running and running so loyal, so denpendable, non-stop, no complaints, no non-sense breaks". It should, didn't you just replace your 95 Accord with a new engine and transmission? Correct me if I'm wrong. : :confuse:

chucko3

Do you think the drivers have enough time to react not to slam their vehicle into
the open door by the time their headlights' beam hit the reflector? The big red rear/brake lamp is more than enough to warn the other drivers at night.
It used to be a light so people can get in/out in the back easy at night. Now sometime I feel like crawling in the dark into the back seat.
Talk about safety, the courtesy light is more useful. At least, one can see someone hiding on the floor in the back.