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Comments
I think with the new multi-power air bags they have to make the cover thin and easy to break through. With the old-fashion one power (A LOT) bags they knew they would go off with enough force to blow through the (apparently) thicker covers. Now if the sensors detect someone "light" in the passenger seat and they are wearing their seatbelt and the collision up front is not "too violent" then that bad will deploy with a lot less force - which is safe for the passenger. I assume the thin cover assures in this situation the bag will be able to get through the cover.
I will check my wife's car next chance I get - but I think it is OK.
Dennis
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
some of the service bulletin summaries MAY have the actual documents attached.
You can get the titles (only) for free here:
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html#
and optionally purchase a subscription to read the details.
Dennis
Sorry, no 05 models in the parking lot so I can look in.
A co-worker has an 04 (I think), but he is out sick today - or I could check on my way out to lunch.
Dennis
Would really appreciate advice.
thanks
I think part of his/her question was - if you get the new key - do you "Reprogram" the car so the one lost no longer works? That would a must-do do me - if I lost a key. Not that familiar with how the Honda Imobilizer works - but I think you have to train the car to the kets, right?
Dennis
Also looked again other 3 cars in the parking lot, they are the same.
The seams around the cover are fine, the cover is fine, but at a certain angle you can see the air bag "slot" or whatever you call it under the cover - in the center of the cover.
Dennis
It's nothing...the airbag has to be able to blow out of there in a hurry when needed.
It sounds like vapor lock to me. I have had a car or two in the past that did this. Usually it was a weak fuel pump. When the car is hot and shut down, the heat builds up under the hood causes it. Some thing you can do - don't run gas with alcohol in them if you can (makes it worse). Get it to do this and and apply a wet rag (soaked in cold water) to the fuel lines under the hood. If this "fixes" it right away then vapor lock is the problem. You can try insulating the lines with foil and stuff - but if it was fine before and not the fuel, then your fuel pump is just now too weak to pump through the "lock".
Not if you have a mechanical pump (I have no idea on that car if you do or not) you should check your oil level. If the oil is too high and smells of gas - then you have a bad pump and gas in the oil. Replace the pump and change the oil. If it is electric, it is probably the pump but I guess it could be a clogged filter or bad line someplace.
If the tank is not venting then it could be that as well - no vent means it can't pump gas. If the cool down of the gas lines does not make it start - try taking the fuel cap off and see if that does.
Dennis
Big Picture
Dennis
Thanks
Regards,
Tony
In the future, maybe you should follow Isell's advice and get at least two extra keys when you buy the car.
And, bobst, I have sold over a thousand new Hondas and not once, ever, have I had a customer who wanted extra keys beyond the three that come with the cars.
AFAIK - As Far AS I Know.
By the way, if you come up against any of these acroymns that are unfamilar you can find then easy with any of the search engines ALLTHEWEB, GOOGLE, etc.
Crus'n
MidCow
When a buyer follows your advice and get two extra keys when he buys the car, he doesn't worry about the cost of replacing a key.
I also think it is interesting that the calculator and calendar are disabled until you press OK on the NAV,
Maybe it is just me but the auto temperature doesn't seem to do as good of job in dual mode especailly if the temperatures are different. Anyone else notice this. It seems if I turn dual mode off the air temperature and fan adjust almost immediately.
Is it possible to install Candain heated mirrors on a USA car. Has anyone done this. I assume it would be just one positvie wire to connect.
crus'n in 6th,
MidCow tha manual shift man.
P.S.- Mpg is starting to edge up as the car gets some miles on it.
Hey, when I first got the S2000 I had similar thoughts about the cover.
Dennis
Dennis
What do I do? Is this painted at the dealership? I have seen other local silver 2004 models with the same problem, but notes left under the windsheild wiper go unanswered. Help!? love the car otherwise, but it just gets worse and worse.
Thanks again,
Swati
Sounds like Fernades and I have the exact same problem. It happens only in warm weather, though with mine even in mild winter you could feel a very weak start with the idle low, but upon applying gas to get the idle up, it would idle fine.
Will keep you posted.
The vapor canister is clogged or ruined? Blocked or kinked hose? If your tank is not venting then as you drive it builds up a vacuum in the tank - but running the car may be able to overcome it. When you stop and try to restart it hot, the vacuum prevents you from getting fuel to the motor. If you let it sit, then the tank slowly vents and then will start. If this is it - just opening the gas cap will vent the tank and it will start right up.
I don't know where the filter and pump or pumps are in this car. But if you got some tainted gas it could have clogged up the filer some and that would lowe the pressure and make your car more prone to vapor lock. Some cars have 2 pumps - one submerged in the tank and one closer to the motor. If one or both are weak then you could have vapor lock.
Back in the day, I had a carb car with this problem. I found the problem (the mechanical fuel pump) by disconnecting the fuel hose at the carb when it would not run. I stuck the hose in a glass bottle and had someone crank the car - no gas. Once the car cooled off, it would pump gas. In my case, the rubber diaphagm between the fuel and the motor (the pump was mounted on the side of the motor and had a level touching a lobe on the crank for "power") had a pin hole. When the rubber got hot, the open got larger and fuel pressure dropped. Let it sit and it had enough pressure to start and run the car. If I had just check the oil level and smelled it, I would have found it sooner. The oil level was too high, runny, and smelled of gas - the pump was pumping gas into the crankcase throught the hole in the diaphragm. Note I would not recommend disconnecting your fuel line and cranking the car - I did it, but no one else should :-)
If a car will crank, but not start - it is either no spark or no fuel (we assume it is getting air). If you test and have one then it is the other.
Dennis
problem solved.
FWIW, he said it was his second igniter in two years. He didn't use Honda OEM igniter.
Yeah, the word "screech" is about the best way to describe the noise. Pretty irritating, isn't it?
Thanks I 'll try it. I have a 2005 that I got February 22, 2005
crus'n in 6th
MidCow
I bought a new regulator for my driver side window for $57.00. At the dealer it would have cost $200, junkyard $70.
http://directauto.com/
Also try http://www.1aauto.com/
What is the version of the nav disc that your accord has? (eject the disc)
Thanks