Thanks for the input. I have not talked to Honda yet. I do feel there is a problem, since my Honda Prelude clutch and I got along very well. My biggest complaint is taking off in 1st and 2nd. It is like you have to slip it a bit or lurch. Neither of which is good for the clutch and driveline. Let me if you learn anything.
If you search for ABS in the posts, there have been many posts which attribute such noises experienced while driving various vehicles including Acura, Camry and CR-V as rubbing, grinding, rasping or buzzing.
If this condition is normal ABS self check, must it happen the same every time?
-Will the degree to which you hear/feel the rubbing, grinding vary on a particular vehicle from one occurence to the next, possibly dependent upon the speed you are traveling, frequency of turning over the engine or outside temp,
-Will the nature of the noise itself vary from one vehicle to another.
Mine is always a rasping, grinding and is heard once and to diff degrees, but it does not happen every time I start the vehicle cold. All the other indicators match the ABS theory.
05 Accord EX V6 door jamb specifies 32/32. Smart to check tire pressure of vehicle from factory as when I originally received vehicle, 3 tires were at 32 and 1 was at approx. 38.
Fluids were fine.
I have placed all 4 at 34 cold. After several days, slight positive change in handling with little to no affect on comfort. We shall see about mpg.
Except for the "rubbing" discussed in other posts, the car drives beautifully.
Dealer said the radio must be returned to manufacturer and repaired $350CDN...the climate ctrl will still work but no display. Got to give it a shot, to replace the entire console is $900CDN
I am currently concidering buying a 1999 Honda Accord from a private party. The car has about 73k miles on it, and was recalled for transmission replacement. It's never been in an accident, and it's been very well maintained -I have all of the car's paperwork and history. For the first couple of years it was taken care of at a honda dealership, now at an independent dealership that specializes in hondas. I just had the car checked yesterday, the tech said the new transmission is fine and the car is in great condition with one acception -the rear main seal is leaking and needs to be fixed or replaced (I don't know which), and the car is in need of an oil change.
The seller is asking 8k, which I am definitely not willing to pay. I was thinking more like 5k, especially b/c of the transmission. However, I don't know how to talk them down or what to say... help!
Lastly, I am already hesitant about buying the vehicle b/c of the transmission problems, and now with the rear main seal leaking I'm not sure what to do. How much will a repair like that cost? And is it really worth it for me to invest in this vehicle knowing it's past history?
I have a 1997 Accord LX with an automatic transmission with 130K. It has always shifted rather harshly, but in the past 2K-3K the harshness has become annoying. It shifts fine (but harsh) into 2nd, and 3rd. However, when it is in 3rd and about to shift to OD, it hovers around 2500 RPM and the car has a vibration. I know vibrations happen throughout driving, but this vibration is very obvious and felt by anyone in the car. It vibrates for about 5-10 seconds and either shifts or I have to take my foot off the accelerator to make it shift. Not only is this annoying, but humiliating when I have passengers.
I have had the tranny fluid changed at usual intervals and everything. In a desperate (and stupid) attempt to smooth it out, I added a couple different auto tranny lubricants. They were useless. I plan on keeping the car for quite a while (I'm a college student), so I can deal with the transmission problem if I have to. I am very aware of the transmission problems affecting the 1999-2000 model Accords. Does anyone know if there is a similar problem or any defect with the 1994-1997 Accord transmissions? If anyone else has had poor experience with the 94-97 Accord auto tranny, I would appreciate any information on your experience and what the end result was. A friend told me to try Lubeguard, but considering how useless the other products have been, I am not eager to waste more money. Thanks.
Looks like the alarm system I had installed last June may be a factor in all this. The switch was replaced on the recall with the original owner. It is wired to the ignition switch as well and may be causing the problem. Friday I am having it disconnected from the ignition. If the car stalls again then I will get the switch replaced but it will be at my cost since an aftermarket item was installed connected to the switch after it was replaced with the recall.
Another clue was when the service manager went to start it when I went there yesterday. I had the alarm turned off(valet mode) and he jigggled the key in the ignition and the siren went off.
After reading the board for a long time, I know that a few of you have dealt with the vibration issue on 2003 4 cyl's. Have you had the dealer actually replace the mounts? I gave my friend the TSB number for the vibration and she mentioned it do the dealer when making an appointment and the service writer was VERY unhappy! He told her the vibration could not caused by motor mounts and when she told him she had a TSB number regarding the exact same problems she had, his comment was "Ohhhh, god." Also, after that, suddenly their calendar was full and she was told they didn't have any appointments for at least two weeks. I'm just curious if this has happened before to anyone, or what people have done with the vibration issue. Thanks for your help.
I dont have the vibration issue..but I would certainly find another honda dealer to get my service done. Thats really unacceptable what the service adviser said. The dealer I go to is happy to hear you bring up TSB's. Shows you are knowledgeable and saves them some work because you figured out the problem and pointed to exactly what has to be done. Saves them time.
I did got the problem fixed I have to go through two different dealers the fist dealer give me a hard time and ignore after I gave them TSB# 04-024 make the long story short whent to second dealer they check and confirmed the problem I got done about 6 weeks ago I think, I still have all the paper work for it If you want give me your e-mail address I'll send the paper work and have you look at it to see what they have done to it.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. My friend made an appointment at another dealer and they got her right in. (She played dumb and didn't mention the TSB on the phone!) I'll talk to her tommorrow and see what they had to say and keep you posted. Thanks again!
Anyway need to replace Motor mounts on all 2003 4 cyl according to TSB. On second dealer I went to I told them TSB# they seem to know right away. On some dealer must be pain in buddddd why can they just fix it under warranty and get pay from American Honda I understand some part they need to prove to American Honda inorder to proceed but for the (Moto Mounts) this have to done because the TSB call out for it.
I bought a 2005 Accord EX-L V-4 three weeks back. To my surprize, today, I saw that there is rust forming on the Disc brakes, and on the body (supports for the brakes) already. It has been just 3 weeks and I barely have 1000 miles on my car. Has anyone had this problem ? Any suggestions as to what I can do about it ?
Thanks for the reply. I have talked to my Honda service manager and he knew exactly what I was talking about. He said he could drive it, but it is probably like the other V6-6 speeds. My biggest complaint is the point of engagement from dead still to shifting out of 2nd. Have you heard of any plan from Honda to fix the problem? My friends that have drove it had really negative comments about clutch. I am afraid that I won't be able to sell it because of this. Any further information would be appreciated. I have contacted Honda Customer care and lodged a complaint.
Thanks for the posting. Is Honda the only manufacturer to ask Alldata to stop posting TSB's? I understand why they would ask, but they come off as if they are trying to hide something.
Anybody out there with a 2004 V-6 Coupe 6 spd. with freeplay (slop) in the gearshift while the car is in gear? I've got a good inch or more of freeplay in 2nd gear. Shifter in this car is a cheap piece of plastic - no rods or links to tighten and adjust.
If so, repair fixes or how to deal with dealer (who says its "normal") advice would be appreciated.
Glad to be of help. Clicking "select a different year" at the bottom of the list, there are no TSBs for the 05. Either there's been no reason for a TSB, or Alldata has stopped publishing Honda TSBs. Considering that selling TSB info is its business, it's unlikely they've heeded Honda's request if true.
Alldata's own website specifies that it is acceding to Honda's wishes and is no longer publishing Honda or Acura TSB information (for retail consumers?). They no doubt still provide the information to repair shops. They state:
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The American Honda Motor Company, Inc. has requested ALLDATA restrict access to Acura and Honda repair information by individual consumers. You will unfortunately not be able to register for access to Acura or Honda vehicle repair information, technical service bulletins or recalls.
We kindly request that all comments should be directed to: American Honda Motor Co., Inc. P. O. Box 2206 700 Van Ness Ave. Torrance, CA 90501
Honda: 800-999-1009 Acura: 800-382-2238
Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused you.
I recently purchased a 1999 accord ex v6. I read where there had been issues of tranny reliability. I started freaking out. So I started monitoring the tran. I did notice that at around 25mph, if you do not accelerate through, the tranny downshifts with a clunk. Is this normal for this car? Also, at around 50mph,while accelerating, it notice a slight shudder when the tranny shifts. Is this normal or am I paranoid? Any help would be appreciated
Do a search on the Accord and Odyssey boards, and you will find a "Ton Of Information" on this subject. How much mileage is on this vehicle? Did you purchase from a Honda dealer? If the answer is "YES," Do you have some type of warranty on this car from the dealer?
You didn't say which model this is. I assume it's a V-6. Whether it's an LX or an EX, at 8000.00 it's a screaming deal. My guess would be it's already sold.
I don't understand why you would worry about a transmission that's been replaced? The number of affected cars were very few in relation to the number of cars produced and the chances of another problem are very remote.
And, I would guess the leaking rear main isn't a big deal. It's probably minor seepage that can go for a long time. I would get a second opinion on that rear main because this isn't something common to Hondas. I'll bet it's an oil pan gasket and not the main seal.
Lastly, if you are uncomfortable, I would just move on to another car.
On used car inspections, mechinics will ALWAYS find something they think needs to be replaced.
Can someone help me with the procedure of removing the front rotors on my 95 Honda Accord. It looks to me like you could take loose the Drive axle nut and pull off the outer hub and brake rotor assembly with a two jaw puller. Then you could remove the four bolts that go into the rotor and separate those two pieces. The book I have says something about loosening the lower ball joint tow pull the axle out. Can someone tell me why this needs to be done, I would think pulling it off with a puller would be quicker and easier. About how long does it take to change out these rotors. Thanks for any help. Joe
Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the wheels. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Please refer to Suspension & Steering for procedures. Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit. Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.
To install:
Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Install the steering knuckle. Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.
The clock light on my 01 Accord is out. I removed the clock and replaced the lamp with a new one from Honda. Connections all seem tight, and the clock itself works, but light still out. What gives here?
I just returned from my Honda dealership, which performed a regular oil change at 45,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. They advised me that the brake fluid is dirty and needs to be changed. In all my years of car ownership, I don't think I've been told this before. The brake system is closed, right? How does it get dirty? I drive my car in city conditions, although not a lot of stop and go. Is this something that urgently needs to be taken care of?
93 Honda accord lx 2 door, the power windows, speedometer, clock and defrost do not work. I checked all the fuses with a meter and have gone thru the Chilton book on my car but no electrical info on powerwindows or more info on fuses. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.
I am the only owner of 1999 Honda Accord. Back Dec 2003 I had my AC service in which the dealer put freon on it. Last year around October my AC started to blow hot air when I had a friend add a can of freon on the AC. It got cool but not cold. This March my AC started to blown hot air again so I took the car back to the dealer to check it there was any leaks. They perform the die test but could not 100% say that there was a leak. They suggested for me to change the evaporator which was going to cost me around $610.00 A lot money. I decided to fill it up with freon for now and wait how long it will last. Is it a common problem on the AC? Can the problem be somewhere else? Should I wait to see how long the cold air will last this time? I live in Florida and Summer is here already. I can be without AC. I would appreciate any help.
I'm hopeful someone can help me. I have had a vent problem with my 2003 Honda Accord V6 for about 6 months now. I have had it in the garage for a complete check-up but still the problem exists. They've replaced the blower motor and thoroughly checked all accompanied parts but to no avail. I was notified by the service manger that they were on the phone with Honda Corp concerning my issue and there's only ever been one other occurance like mine (plastic smell coming from vents on a dual-climate control when one control's temperature is turned down) and that was on a 2001 Honda. The service manager advised me that they're looking into the situation further and hope to have a solution soon. I thoroughly believe the service manager is doing what he can and I have faith in his service people.
Here's my question...what if they can't fix it? What if they really exhaust all options and the problem still exists? The car is a month shy of being two years old. It has about 39,000 miles on it. Do I have any recourse? Has anyone else ever encountered something like this where a dealership can't come up with a solution? Though I highly doubt it, could it be possible that Honda Corp. would offer me a deal (for a new one or something else)? Am I just stuck with it and that's the way it goes?
Any help or information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I have a new '05 V6 6M coupe with just over 800 miles on it. I really like the car. A lot of fun to drive. However I've noticed a couple noises recently:
1) When accelerating (and sometimes while maintaining a constant speed) I notice a high pitched whining/whistling noise coming from the engine. (I'm assuming it's the engine. I tried just revving the engine while the car was in neutral and was able to get the same sound a few times.)
2) I'm getting a creaking noise from the driver's window when it is fully up. If I crack the window just a tiny bit the noise goes away. When it's all the way up the noise comes back. Don't see anything around the window seal that could be causing the noise.
Just an update for those of you effected by TSB for 2003 4 cyl's. The dealer did finally acknowledge that there is a TSB for the issue and said they have to order parts, although he did not specify the parts. Hopefully, he was talking about new mounts.
I have a 1996 honda accord lx, with 122000 mile on it. Need to know what is wrong went the srs light stay on. went to autozone an had the computer check. They said the test came up with no ERROR. ****DO ANY ONE KNOW WHAT GOING ON PLEASE HELP***
There is definetly a TSB for 2003 and 2004 Accords that have problems with the motor mount. I have an '04 and the motor mount was replaced because the engine vibrated excessively at times at idle when stopped at a light, for example.
The '03 repair involves a new motor mount and other fixes, such as an idle kit. You may be able to find the actual TSB print-out online, which I brought to my dealer. However, I don't remember where.
I have two other problems with my 2004 Accord. They include the following:
1.Weatherstripping on the front, right passenger side keeps coming loose. The "technicians" have not been able to fix it.
2. The right side of my headliner is sagging. There is also a rattling noise coming from the headliner.
Overall, I'm happy with the car. It is improved from the 2000 model, which I had for five years mechanically. However, the overall quality of the interor for the 2004 model is not as good as the 2000 model. Dealer service also appears worse, at least for the dealership that I'm going to.
I posted many messages about my A-Pillar rattle/rattle coming from left-hand corner of the dash. My dealer never figured out the problem, but I did.
Once I figured out the noise was going away when it rained, I figured the problem had to be on the outside of the car. I placed a very thin piece of rubber about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide between the window and the rubber seal along the left lower side of the window (on the outside of the car). I found by pressing on the seal that it made a loud cracking noise. For the most part the problem has disappeared for the last 2 weeks. I can barely hear it when I hit very rough roads - but it's very faint and bareable.
I have the opportunity to purchase a 2003 4 cylinder Accord that has been sitting in a garage for two years. The car is dirty, but otherwise it is like new. The battery is dead. Since I know nothing about cars, should I take a chance on this vehicle? If I decide to purchase this vehicle, should I have it transported on the back of a truck to a Honda dealer, to put it back in running condition? What type of service needs to be done to this car after sitting for such a long time? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks alot Mrbill. It's been a lil while since I've changed any cv shaft but I've never done it on any cars. It's always been on 4x4 pickups. I looked at it tonight and it didn't seem to be any different from what you were saying. Thanks for your help.
Remember checking the engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc. and jump start the battery, let the engine run for a little while to fully recharge the battery and drive it away. Do not need to bring it to the dealer. I guess the car is at low mileage and still in excellent condition.
I have a 2002 Accord SE and had problem with SRS Light staying on. It turned out that the faulty driver's seat belt buckle was the cause of the problem. The buckle was changed and problem fixed.
Seat belts have unlimited warranty (as long as they are usable).
I have decided to purchase this car. It is an EX 4 door Accord with leather, sun roof, power driver's seat ---etc. I don't know much more about the car, until I take possession and get it running. I don't need the use of this vehicle right away, because it will be my second car. My other vehicle is a 2002 Ford 8 cylinder yellow Mustang with a 5 speed manual transmission. I am interested in the Accord, because the Mustang really uses fuel, but it is a blast to drive. I also think the Accord makes a statement, when going out socially.
Today, I am going to stop by my the mechanic, who services the Mustang, and make arrangements to have the Accord picked up with a flat bed truck. I want the mechanic to go over the entire engine compartment, check the condition of all the fluids and hoses, and also check the condition of the underside of the car, before starting the engine. If it needs to have the oil changed, or a new battery or the brakes serviced, I would rather have this service done before he takes it out for a ride. Since this is a cash deal, the whole process should move forward very quickly. I can't wait to take my first ride in this vehicle. I could not pass this deal up. It is a once in a lifetime purchase. Once I take possession of the vehicle and have it serviced, I am going to have the entire car cleaned and detailed by a professional. Then from that point on , I can maintain its looks myself. I will keep you informed about the project. ------ Best regards -----Dwayne
Comments
If this condition is normal ABS self check, must it happen the same every time?
-Will the degree to which you hear/feel the rubbing, grinding vary on a particular vehicle from one occurence to the next, possibly dependent upon the speed you are traveling, frequency of turning over the engine or outside temp,
-Will the nature of the noise itself vary from one vehicle to another.
Mine is always a rasping, grinding and is heard once and to diff degrees, but it does not happen every time I start the vehicle cold. All the other indicators match the ABS theory.
Fluids were fine.
I have placed all 4 at 34 cold. After several days, slight positive change in handling with little to no affect on comfort. We shall see about mpg.
Except for the "rubbing" discussed in other posts, the car drives beautifully.
I am currently concidering buying a 1999 Honda Accord from a private party. The car has about 73k miles on it, and was recalled for transmission replacement. It's never been in an accident, and it's been very well maintained -I have all of the car's paperwork and history. For the first couple of years it was taken care of at a honda dealership, now at an independent dealership that specializes in hondas. I just had the car checked yesterday, the tech said the new transmission is fine and the car is in great condition with one acception -the rear main seal is leaking and needs to be fixed or replaced (I don't know which), and the car is in need of an oil change.
The seller is asking 8k, which I am definitely not willing to pay. I was thinking more like 5k, especially b/c of the transmission. However, I don't know how to talk them down or what to say... help!
Lastly, I am already hesitant about buying the vehicle b/c of the transmission problems, and now with the rear main seal leaking I'm not sure what to do. How much will a repair like that cost? And is it really worth it for me to invest in this vehicle knowing it's past history?
I have a 1997 Accord LX with an automatic transmission with 130K. It has always shifted rather harshly, but in the past 2K-3K the harshness has become annoying. It shifts fine (but harsh) into 2nd, and 3rd. However, when it is in 3rd and about to shift to OD, it hovers around 2500 RPM and the car has a vibration. I know vibrations happen throughout driving, but this vibration is very obvious and felt by anyone in the car. It vibrates for about 5-10 seconds and either shifts or I have to take my foot off the accelerator to make it shift. Not only is this annoying, but humiliating when I have passengers.
I have had the tranny fluid changed at usual intervals and everything. In a desperate (and stupid) attempt to smooth it out, I added a couple different auto tranny lubricants. They were useless. I plan on keeping the car for quite a while (I'm a college student), so I can deal with the transmission problem if I have to. I am very aware of the transmission problems affecting the 1999-2000 model Accords. Does anyone know if there is a similar problem or any defect with the 1994-1997 Accord transmissions? If anyone else has had poor experience with the 94-97 Accord auto tranny, I would appreciate any information on your experience and what the end result was. A friend told me to try Lubeguard, but considering how useless the other products have been, I am not eager to waste more money. Thanks.
Another clue was when the service manager went to start it when I went there yesterday. I had the alarm turned off(valet mode) and he jigggled the key in the ignition and the siren went off.
I did got the problem fixed I have to go through two different dealers the fist dealer give me a hard time and ignore after I gave them TSB#
04-024 make the long story short whent to second
dealer they check and confirmed the problem
I got done about 6 weeks ago I think, I still have all the paper work for it If you want give me your e-mail address I'll send the paper work and have you look at it to see what they have done to it.
Anyway need to replace Motor mounts on all 2003 4 cyl according to TSB. On second dealer I went to I told them TSB# they seem to know right away.
On some dealer must be pain in buddddd why can they just fix it under warranty and get pay from American Honda I understand some part they need to prove to American Honda inorder to proceed but for the (Moto Mounts) this have to done because the TSB call out for it.
2003 Accord
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/24/032401AW.html
2004 Accord
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/24/042401AZ.html
Thank you for the links. Is theree one yet for 2005 Accords ?
MisCow
Is Honda the only manufacturer to ask Alldata to stop posting TSB's? I understand why they would ask, but they come off as if they are trying to hide something.
If so, repair fixes or how to deal with dealer (who says its "normal") advice would be appreciated.
-FS
Alldata's own website specifies that it is acceding to Honda's wishes and is no longer publishing Honda or Acura TSB information (for retail consumers?). They no doubt still provide the information to repair shops. They state:
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The American Honda Motor Company, Inc. has requested ALLDATA restrict access to Acura and Honda repair information by individual consumers. You will unfortunately not be able to register for access to Acura or Honda vehicle repair information, technical service bulletins or recalls.
We kindly request that all comments should be directed to:
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
P. O. Box 2206
700 Van Ness Ave.
Torrance, CA 90501
Honda: 800-999-1009
Acura: 800-382-2238
Please accept our apologies for any inconvenience this may have caused you.
I don't understand why you would worry about a transmission that's been replaced? The number of affected cars were very few in relation to the number of cars produced and the chances of another problem are very remote.
And, I would guess the leaking rear main isn't a big deal. It's probably minor seepage that can go for a long time. I would get a second opinion on that rear main because this isn't something common to Hondas. I'll bet it's an oil pan gasket and not the main seal.
Lastly, if you are uncomfortable, I would just move on to another car.
On used car inspections, mechinics will ALWAYS find something they think needs to be replaced.
Brake Disc (Rotor)
Honda Accord/Prelude 1984-1995 Repair Guide
1990-95 Accord
Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Please refer to Suspension & Steering for procedures.
Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit.
Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.
To install:
Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Install the steering knuckle.
Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.
Fred
http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml
I checked all the fuses with a meter and have gone thru the Chilton book on my car but no electrical info on powerwindows or more info on fuses. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.
one other occurance like mine (plastic smell coming from vents on a dual-climate control when one control's temperature is turned down) and that was on a 2001 Honda. The service manager advised me that they're looking into the situation further and hope to have a solution soon. I thoroughly believe the service manager is doing what he can and I have faith in his service people.
Here's my question...what if they can't fix it? What if they really exhaust all options and the problem still exists? The car is a month shy of being two years old. It has about 39,000 miles on it. Do I have any recourse? Has anyone else ever encountered something like this where a dealership can't come up with a solution? Though I highly doubt it, could it be possible that Honda Corp. would offer me a deal (for a new one or something else)? Am I just stuck with it and that's the way it goes?
Any help or information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
1) When accelerating (and sometimes while maintaining a constant speed) I notice a high pitched whining/whistling noise coming from the engine. (I'm assuming it's the engine. I tried just revving the engine while the car was in neutral and was able to get the same sound a few times.)
2) I'm getting a creaking noise from the driver's window when it is fully up. If I crack the window just a tiny bit the noise goes away. When it's all the way up the noise comes back. Don't see anything around the window seal that could be causing the noise.
The '03 repair involves a new motor mount and other fixes, such as an idle kit. You may be able to find the actual TSB print-out online, which I brought to my dealer. However, I don't remember where.
I have two other problems with my 2004 Accord. They include the following:
1.Weatherstripping on the front, right passenger side keeps coming loose. The "technicians" have not been able to fix it.
2. The right side of my headliner is sagging. There is also a rattling noise coming from the headliner.
Overall, I'm happy with the car. It is improved from the 2000 model, which I had for five years mechanically. However, the overall quality of the interor for the 2004 model is not as good as the 2000 model. Dealer service also appears worse, at least for the dealership that I'm going to.
Once I figured out the noise was going away when it rained, I figured the problem had to be on the outside of the car. I placed a very thin piece of rubber about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide between the window and the rubber seal along the left lower side of the window (on the outside of the car). I found by pressing on the seal that it made a loud cracking noise. For the most part the problem has disappeared for the last 2 weeks. I can barely hear it when I hit very rough roads - but it's very faint and bareable.
Jeepster
Seat belts have unlimited warranty (as long as they are usable).
Today, I am going to stop by my the mechanic, who services the Mustang, and make arrangements to have the Accord picked up with a flat bed truck. I want the mechanic to go over the entire engine compartment, check the condition of all the fluids and hoses, and also check the condition of the underside of the car, before starting the engine. If it needs to have the oil changed, or a new battery or the brakes serviced, I would rather have this service done before he takes it out for a ride. Since this is a cash deal, the whole process should move forward very quickly. I can't wait to take my first ride in this vehicle. I could not pass this deal up. It is a once in a lifetime purchase. Once I take possession of the vehicle and have it serviced, I am going to have the entire car cleaned and detailed by a professional. Then from that point on , I can maintain its looks myself. I will keep you informed about the project. ------ Best regards -----Dwayne