Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

chucko3 · May 2005

I would look at the rear pads and see how much left on them.
Your dealer probably charges you $55 for OEM pads + 1/2 hr labor.
It's about right for Honda service.

blane · May 2005

chucko:

That's strange. I didn't use a micrometer to check, but a brand new set of original equipment Honda Accord pads look and feel exactly the same thickness - front and rear. How did you determine that the rears are thinner?

mrbill1957 · May 2005

My bet is that the pads are smaller, but the same thickness.

Does the emergency brake work off the rear pads, or do they use a seperate drum on the rotors?

mrbill

isellhondas · May 2005

No, not on these. The rear pads are much thinner. the front pads have about 10MM of material when new and the rears about half that.

I had to replace the rear pads on my 99 V-6 Coupe at 45,000 miles. The original fronts still had almost 5MM left.

But, then, I'm not a hard driver...anymore!

gee35coupe · May 2005

Brake jobs aren't hard at all. Not even Honda ones. And you'll irradicate brake dust with the ceramic pads. Even if you do need brakes every 30K or so, they'll be free. I would have them professionally inspected after the job, but that's usually free too. I haven't paid for a brake job in 15 years.

chucko3 · May 2005

I didn't use a meter to check either. Just by looking at them. The rear pads are so easy to look at. For the front pads, I have to steer the wheels at an angle to have a good look.

natenj1971 · May 2005

I'm trying to find a 5 speed coupe and I'm wondering if ya'll have any opinions about this model.

Thanks.

susan10 · May 2005

Help me decide which is the better car and the better buy. I currently drive a civic hatch 1995 and don't feel it had enough power. Please let me know your thoughts on the accord. . Have you had problems--if you have a 2005 accord do you like it--should I buy the extended warranty--how much should I pay for the warranty--how much should I pay for the car--

Anything you can share with me abuot your experiences would be greatly appreciated.

tntitan · May 2005

I have a 2003 LX coupe with the 5 speed and couldn't be happier. I originally wanted the 6 cyl with the 6 speed but think I made the right choice since it seems more people have had problems with the 6 cylinder models than the 4 cylinder models. It actually has pretty good power, gets much better gas mileage and is better balanced (6 banger weighs more in the front). I put some 17 inch wheels on it and it drives great. IMO the coupes look much better than the sedans.

susan10 · May 2005

thank you for your input
I will test the coupe and reply back. I am concerned about rear view visibility. any thoughts???

kippi · May 2005

I've been driving a 2005 LX sedan 4cyl auto for a month now. I have the PZEV version, with slightly reduced hosepower. I've found the 4cyl to have adequate power--and it is an unusually smooth and quiet engine. I test drove a 2005 civic 4cyl--that was underpowered and too slow to accelerate, I wouldn't have bought it. The 4 cyl in the Accord is, paradoxically, much more powerful and responsive than the engine in the smaller car. I've noticed the engine struggle slightly when going up steep grades, and I can feel the effect of the air conditioner, just slightly. But in neither case do I consider it a problem: it has much more confident power than my former car, a Toyota Corolla, and it never feels underpowered on the freeway. In mostly city driving, I'm getting about 28 or 29 mpg. Unless you are a driving enthusiast who wants more power just for fun, go for the 4 cyl. (The only circumstance in which I might find the extra power meaningful would be if most of my driving was in San Francisco or some other extremely hilly terrain: if that's the case, be sure to test drive it on some steep hills before you buy.)

mrbill1957 · May 2005

I have an 04 EX-L sedan with the 4cyl, and have been very happy with it's power.

Horsepower has been growing over the years, and the more people have the more they want. You really need to try it yourself and see if you like it. The 4 cyl currently has 160 hp. When I campare that to my second car, a1975 Mustang with a rare 302 V8 and a whopping 122 hp, it really goes.

Mrbill

nankish · May 2005

My accord EX stopped blowing cold air for last couple of weeks, I took to some local repair shop they said Freon is leaking and needs to replace AC evaporator/exapansion valve and reciever dryer and gave a quote for $900. Please give any suggestion. It just have 40K milage? Hmm.. Who says Accord is one of the best sedan? :mad:

viet · May 2005

Last Xmas, I bought an Accord Hybrid 2005 with 255 HP and could not be more happy. The Accord hybrid is so smooth, so quiet, so powerful. It gives me more HP, better MPG. Everything I want. If you dont care to spend around $35K for a loaded Accord hybrid with NAVI you will get the best Accord. Or if you dont want to spend that much a V6 Accord EX is the second cheaper choice. I am not going lower than the V6 from now on.

bimmer4me · May 2005

If you can wait for the 2006 Accord, the buzz is the Accord will get a bump in horsepower from 160 to 170 for the 4 cylinder...this is according to Temple of Vtec.

richards38 · May 2005

I live in San Francisco and I can tell you that the hills here are very steep, very short, and in densely populated areas where you'd be crazy to go even half as fast as a 4 cylinder Accord can go.

I drove an '85 Pontiac Sunbird for a few years and it really was a slug--especially with the A/C on. But there was never a problem getting up hills here because gearing was low enough with it's decent A/T.

I have the '04 Accord EX-L sedan with 4 cyl. and A/T and see no reason to have the V6 because the 4 is plenty quick both on hills and everywhere else I've been driving.

Maybe if I were carrying heavy loads I'd consider the V6, but with one or 2 passengers the 4 is more than adequate IMO...........Richard

susan10 · May 2005

I was offered around $24,500 for a 4 door EXL 4 clr with navi including destination in southern california. Is that a good price or should I shop for lower?? I need the car this week.

thank you all for great input--it is sooooo helpful.

jhinsc · May 2005

My mother's 97 EX rear pads lasted until almost 60K miles, and she has just replaced the front pads for the first time at 75K miles. I'm amazed that the pads have lasted that long, but the majority of the miles on the car during it's first 4 years were highway miles. But in recent years since she has retired, it's been mostly city driving, with a few long highway trips. BTW, the rotors were fine, they just needed to be turned.

kippi · May 2005

You can do better, and avoid most or all of the haggling. Start by getting a quote online at carsdirect.com--that will put you in a price realistic ballpark, and I've read some people who had satifactory experiences buying from them. Then, go to one or two of the other online car shopping places: autobytel.com, others that I'm sure you can easily uncover. They will send your contact info and car request to a few dealers, who will then contact you by phone or email with a quote. In my limited experience (one purchase), this really works, they'll be back to you in a day or so, the prices are good, and you'll actually get the quoted price when you show up. The place I bought from has been cited here by others--Spirt Honda in El Monte: my LX was a couple of hundred below the carsdirect price. A very nice woman named Christina gave me a straightforward quote and handled the whole thing.

viet · May 2005

With $24.5K + TTL I can buy a V6 EX that has much more value.

chapel1 · May 2005

We really like our Honda ,but we have gone nutz trying to solve our loose driver's seat problem? We've had the dealership first shim the seats and then we had them replace the entire seat track. Neither of these repairs helped.
We finally narrowed it down to the seat cushion is what is sliding or moving against the seat frame. Our dealer had a new cushion ordered and had his detail shop reapply the cushion to the seat frame.
We have had the car back now for 5 days and have not felt the seat move at all. Hope this may help others out there with the same problem?

isellhondas · May 2005

"Who says Accord is one of the best sedan?"

Well, I do.

You didn't say what year your Accord is or how many miles are on it.

Accords are great cars but things can and do happen to all makes and models.

Just unfortunate in your case. You might want to get another opinion and quote on this repair.

tampaman · May 2005

We had same exact problem with our '03 Accord.Two trips to the dealership telling me I was crazy that the seat did not shift while braking and turning right. Third trip they shimmed it,,,no difference,,,fourth trip they repaced the seat track and it solved the problem,,,,glad you finally got your corrected.

chapel1 · May 2005

What was weird was that the base didn't move and the back didn't move but the bottom did? I was convinced that it had to be the power seat motor or the power seat gear?
It was only that a tech from the dealership saw the cushion or bottom seat slide and not the whole seat move when my wife took him for the road test. And that was after two days of other techs driving the car and saying they couldn't feel anything wrong with it?

cmr530i · May 2005

I live in SoCal ,and last January I paid $22,400 before taxes for an 2004 EXL 4 cylinder without navi. I am not sure how much more the navi adds onto the price. That car was totaled, so I just bought a 2005 EXL V6 for $23,873 (before taxes) plus $45 doc fees. I went through Crevier's Personal Shopper program (no cost). They found the car for me at my price from Gardena Honda. Had the car delivered to my house. All the paperwork was handled by fax and phone. Good luck in your search.

laffelady0813 · May 2005

I did let them paint my hood and bumper. I have seen too many Hondas to believe that the paint is not a problem on many of their cars. This is my first Honda. It has other problems too. They tried to get rid of wind noise so now both my rear doors make a loud scratching sound when I open them. The paint looks ok so far. I could go on but it is not worth my effort. I will get rid of this beast when they adjust the car doors to where they dont sound like the hinges are breaking off. NEVER again will I buy a Honda. They are not what they are made out to be and they certainly are not worth the money they cost. Wanna buy mine? It has only 5000 miles and it is clean and smells new.

tomliv · May 2005

I'm looking to buy a floor jack and a pair of jack stands for wheel cleaning, tire rotation, etc. Does anyone know if there are dedicated jacking points on a 4 cyl. Accord sedan for a floor jack? The owner's manual only shows the jacking points for the supplied scissors jack.

Also, does anyone have recommendations on a good floor jack? I'm thinking of a Craftsman 3000 lb. aluminum/steel low profile jack that lifts up to 18.5 inches, but I'm open to suggestions.

temj12 · May 2005

Dennis, What is the best dealership in the Nashville area to service my Honda? Thanks, Ray

tntitan · May 2005

I live in Franklin and use Darrell Waltrip but I would go to Trickett if it was more convenient. I only go there for parts and a few of the service items. Most things I do myself or have an independent mechanic perform the service-it is much cheaper. Changing the oil and other fluids can be done by any reliable mechanic and there are not many other things your Honda will need in the first 100K.

mldj98 · May 2005

Looking for a little help and info from anyone in this outstanding forum.
I am looking for the actual MPG anyone is getting on their V6 Accord.
I know what the window sticker says....but actual MPG is usually different.
I would appreciate any help on this.
Thanks so much in advance!!!!!

weslex · May 2005

I have a 99 Honda Accord with same issues - engine turns over and then turns off, runs fine in cold weather and not in hot weather. Any advice?

weslex · May 2005

I have a 1999 Honda Accord and had problems in starting it. It'll turn over and then the engine just turns off. Also when I am driving it, it will just turn off as if it ran out of gas and a couple times I have pumped the gas over and over and it fuels back up and keeps going. We have tried fuel cleaner in the tank and replaced the main relay switch. Any recalls on the fuel pump for the honda accord? It doesn't stall when it's cold out. Only when it's warm. The whole winter it was fine. It gave me trouble in the fall very rarely and now that it's warmer it's flaring up again. Could it be the fuel relay? It works if i wait a little or just put my foot on the gas and just throw it into drive really quick. Any comments?

dwynne · May 2005

I am the opposite of tntitan

I work and live closest to Trickett, but take my S2000 to Waltrip in Franklin. The service manager there (Archie) was tons of help to me in the past and I started taking my car there for service sort of as a pay back for all the help. Service appointments including Saturday service were a big plus. With my wife's new Accord we got a coupon book for discount oil changes, etc so I will probably takes her car there as well.

I ride my Honda motorcycles to Sloan's in Murfreesboro for service as well. Didn't get them there, and there are a lot close dealers but they have always treated me well so I keep coming back.

I have not heard anything bad about Trickett and when I had a Civic Si way back when used to take it their for service. They DID have a "runner" joy ride in my car (I caught him) and he was fired - but this was years and year back.

As tntitan also mentioned, you can get an oil and filter change about any place - you don't have to go the dealer for this. I like to use OEM filters, so I have been known to order OEM filters and washers and take the car to Valvoline for the oil change. If I don't do it myself, I like to watch to make sure it gets done. Old oil and filter off, new oil and filter in. Even at the dealership you don't KNOW they did anything

If you buy from Trickett you get a discount on oil changes every time. They used to call it the "apple gang" and give you a cheap change and free apple. With Waltrip it is a coupon book. The other area dealers may offer similar deals to customers that buy from them.

Dennis

blane · May 2005

tomliv:

The four jacking points are the same, no matter what kind of jack you use to raise your car.

Your 4-cylinder 2004 Accord weighs less than 3,200 lbs. If we presume that 60% of the weight is on the front wheels (since that's where the engine and transmission are), the greatest weight that your jack will need to lift is no more than 960 lbs. at any one corner of your car. Therefore you can be confident purchasing any floor or bottle jack with a 1,500 lb. (¾ ton), or more, capacity. Jacks are not complicated, so you should shop by price.

joe122 · May 2005

The driver's seat (and passenger's) has a heavy steel frame that protects and contains the side airbag assembly. Part of this steel support is under the left side seat bolster. That is what you are feeling through the foam. That is also why most people who feel this, state that it is on the left side. The other part of the frame runs up behind the vertical left side bolster. The bolster foam feels quite flexible, but it is very dense and hard compared to other types of upholstery foam. The manufacturer chose a dense foam in an effort to properly cushion the driver from the steel frame. Unfortunately, some people are still able to feel the steel support through this foam. That, combined with the stiff nature of the under layers of jute, causes the discomfort.

Honda refuses to acknowledge this as a defect because the seat was deliberately designed in this fashion. It has been suggested, by some here, that the seats will change or soften over time. This is very unlikely. It is analogous to buying a pair of shoes. If they were uncomfortable when they were new, they will probably still be uncomfortable when they are worn out.

blane · May 2005

My 2004 Accord Coupe's seats have been extremely comfortable for the last 15,000 miles. I prefer not to sit on "mushy" sofa-like seats when I'm driving.

62vetteefp · May 2005

http://www.strategicvision.com/

the above link takes you to another independent quality rating. Lacrosse is under large cars and Camcord under mid but:

886 500 (large segment average 868)
886 Maxima (large segment average 868)
883 300 (large segment average 868)
875 G6 (midsize segment average 852)
874 LaCrosse (large segment average 868)
853 Camry (midsize segment average 852)
852 Accord (midsize segment average 852)

Now all the above cars were above or at average in their segment so they are not dogs but it does show how the domestics have this quality issue behind them on the new models. These are October/November bought vehicles so they are brand new models on the domestics and older models on the transplants. The domestics scores will only go up as they fix the early quality bugs.

dwynne · May 2005

I just always use the OEM jack, but that is just me. I don't have to take the tires off that much - sometimes to fix a flat on one car without driving it in (the local tire shop will often do it for free if I carry the tire/wheel in off the car). I also put 4 snow tires on the "snow day car". I just always use the OEM jack. That makes sure it is working, and I don't have to worry about jacking in the wrong spot with the wrong jack.

My two main cars have staggered tire sizes, so no rotating - but most shops will do this "Free" for you if as part of an inspection.

I have never jacked up a car to clean wheels, either.

When I autocrossed, I used a floor jack to save some of the work. I guess I don't use the jack enough now to want to fool something other than OEM.

Dennis

mrbill1957 · May 2005

I have 2 floor jacks, one is a brand name, one is brand X, both seem to work equally well.

You may try a Costco/ Sams Club, they used to sell a jack for around $60. As with all jacks, never work under the car while it's on the jack, always use stands.

I made up a flat metal plate with a hard rubber covering. It sits just inside the circular "dish" of the jack, which allows jacking of the car (at the jack points) without worry of marring anything.

Mrbill

jimex · May 2005

Hi Joe122,

Thanks for the detailed explanation with regard to the seat design and the reason for it's discomfort. As I mentioned before, I'm getting use to a slightly different sitting postion, but I still notice it at times. It's too bad because I love the car - it's my 4th (87, 93, 98, 05) consecutive Accord and to be honest with you - I really didn't test drive this car before I bought it - I just sat in it for 5 minutes. I figured the others were comfortable so this one will be too. And you're right, only some people feel this support - my wife drove the car the other day (for the first time) and remarked how comfortable the seat was....So I guess this is another example of where technology sometimes gets in the way. I'll learn to live with it knowing it's a safety thing that I'm feeling....haha.

Thanks, again for the explanation.

blane · May 2005

62vetteefp:

Since you cross-posted your message here's my corresponding cross-posted reply:

Since I (and presumably millions of others) have never read of "Strategic Vision" as a recognized authority on automotive quality, I read a bit about them and their philosophy on the website that you linked in post #3312. They appear to be a marketing-oriented organization interested in "social issues and trends". They compile data (in their own words) using "an individual's personal feelings and values--safety, security, trust, freedom, control, pride, self-esteem--are at the core of the buying decision and how people evaluate products and service after they have made those decisions".

They state "More than 40,793 buyers who bought 2005 models in October and November of 2004 supplied data. We gather comprehensive data that reflects the breadth and depth of the ownership experience, including emotions. The information is used to calculate Total Quality indices. These integrated relationships between attributes and emotions mirror how people respond to their new vehicle. Those product and performance characteristics that deliver more desired emotions more strongly impact the perception of Total Quality.

This does not impress me personally as being the most reliable gauge of automotive quality beyond the initial six or fewer months used as the basis of their published numbers. I'd rather see owner reports about the quality of their vehicles after they've driven them for one or more years. That is the only way to determine longer term reliability, when the excitement and emotion about a new purchase has worn off somewhat.

plethysmo · May 2005

Here is the mileage chart for my 03 V6 LX in Seattle, Wa.

Here is the chart from data that i_h8_riceboys posted at the TOV website. He says he has an 04 V6 EX M6 in Michigan.

Charts are calculated on 5 tank running average mpg.

In Fla, expect to see a different seasonal pattern.

tomliv · May 2005

Thanks everyone for your posts!

xrwill · May 2005

I recently rotated the tires on my accord. The next time I was on the highway my steering wheel started to vibrate pretty badly. I had notcied that previous to rotating my tires, there was a thumping noise coming from the rear end under braking, and now this effect is on the front. Could it be that one of the wheels that was on the rear had a dead spot, and now that it is on the front, it is casuing my wheel vibrations, or have I got other problems?

isellhondas · May 2005

Good post. Let's see how some of these darlings hold up after 150,000 miles!

That's what REALLY matters!

blane · May 2005

xrwill:

When was the last time that you had a shop high-speed balance your wheels? You might also want to check that all of your wheel lug nuts are tighened to specification.

isellhondas · May 2005

Wheels don't get "dead spots". At first I thought you had knocked off a wheel weight causing the vibration but this is much worse.

I hope by now you've had someone take a look at it! This isn't something to guess about or ask about on a forum. This is serious!

dwynne · May 2005

Assuming the wheels are on properly, they you either have a bent rim or a broken belt in a tire (or maybe both). You could have also lost a wheel weight - so the tire is out of balance.

A tire shop should be able to inspect and tell you which is wrong. If you are "lucky" and have steel wheels, you can probably find one in a junk yard for $25 or so. If you have alloys, it may cost you $50-75 for one. If your tire is bad, the look at the tread depth of the other tires and see if you need to go ahead and buy a new pair or 4 new ones. If you only get a single tire or a pair, put the new tires on the back of the car to start.

Dennis

blane · May 2005

Let it be known that the top vehicle in Strategic Vision's 2004 top small car was the Saturn Ion. That speaks volumes about how useful their reports of the first few months of owner satisfaction may or may not be.

temj12 · May 2005

Dennis, Thanks for the info. I live in Mt. Juliet but I don't mind a little drive for good service. I have never cared for Trickett. In 1984, I tried to buy a Honda from them. At that time, they were list price and you had a waiting period. The 3 months waiting turned into 6 months. I was supposed to get a burgundy Accord. I saw burgundy after burgundy come in but no call. They asked me to take another color. I agreed to light blue because they had one. I went in two hours after the call and, guess what, they had accidentally sold the car. It would turn my stomach to go back there.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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