Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I have not had any problems the the folks at Waltrip, and the place is full of Darrell's trophies and even the Daytona winning car. My Mom used to take my brother and I to the fairgrounds back years ago and our favorite "local" driver was Waltrip. So I got a kick the first couple of trips down there looking at all the stuff - gives you something to do while you are waiting.
Dennis
try here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp
Looks like $478 potentially for the assembly. Not sure.
I'd probably go to a pull-it place. First I'd determine what model years used the same assembly.
Another alternative, go online and put in a request.
you sure there isn't a cable loose in the seat?
Most automotive salvage or "junk" yards are able to access a nationwide network to find a part for just about any car in a few moments at a keyboard. Check your local yellow pages for one that will do a search, locate the needed moter and have it shipped to their local facility.
My old chevy cavalier had a dome light. Yes, it has been a long day.
I appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks.
Thanks
Stephen
Good luck
Mrbill
You have not indicated whether you have a sedan or coupe, but pages 103 and 104 of my 2004 Accord Coupe Owners Manual, under Interior Convenience Items, Interior Lights, have a very clear illustration. They also state:
"The ceiling light has a three-position switch; ON, Door Activated, and OFF. In the Door Activated (center) position, the light comes on when you:
- Open either door.
- Unlock the doors with the key or remote transmitter.
After both doors are closed tightly, the light dims slightly, then fades out in about 30 seconds.
The ceiling light (with the switch in the center position) comes on when you remove the key from the ignition switch. If you do not open a door, the light stays on, then fades out in about 30 seconds.
If you leave either door open with the key not in the ignition switch, the ceiling light will go off after three minutes."
Yup, it has been a long day. I hope this helps. Enjoy your new ride.
I appreciate you taking the time to help with this. Thank You!!
Peggy
http://www.grille-tech.com/detail.html?prodid=158
$60 for the center grill on the coupe
http://www.grille-tech.com/detail.html?prodid=159
and $35 extra for the side grills
http://www.grille-tech.com/detail.html?prodid=160
I don't know that you HAVE to have the side grills, other than to just unify the "look" on the coupe - do you? We have the sedan, so I am not sure on the coupe if anything is in danger behind the side openings on the coupe or not.
I had a similar grill (maybe even from the same company) on my Miata years ago. Mostly for looks but also to keep the bugs and rocks from messing up the A/C and radiator. Seemed to work fine and was easy to install. Some fokls have concerns about the airflow being reduced and leading to overheating, but I never had a problem - and it gets pretty hot here in the summer.
I will probably order a grill for my wife's sedan - I noticed the exposed parts right off when we started looking at them and worried about damage. Every time someone posts about a problem that is not covered, just makes me more sure I need to get a grill.
Seems like EVERY car these days has easy to chip and easy to scratch paint. I think in "the good old days" they had that nice lead and other unfriendly stuff in there to make it tougher. Now it is better for the environment but not as tough? We got a small chip in the trunk over the plate area just installing my wife's license plate. Overall though, my wife just loves her new Accord.
Dennis
Take a piece of hardware cloth, it comes in different grid spacing, cut it to size, spray it black, and attach it just behind the opening in the bumper with black tie wraps. The whole thing should cost a few bucks, and will solve the damage problem.
I did take it to the dealer and I was told that it would be a $90 charge for diagnosing the issue. I just want to reset it, so that I know whether it is a real issue or not. If it is, then I will pay to have it fixed. I do not understand why it recently came on. The car has less than 60,000 miles and has not been in any accidents. I just hope that it was a false alarm and resetting it would be all that is needed. They told me that if it is caused by the seat belt issue, then there will be no charge. Is there an easy to determine if it is the sear belt that is causing the SRS light?
I did find the following page showing how to reset the SRS light.
http://www.geocities.com/myintegra96/srs.html
What I'm wondering is why would a dealer put in a DEFECTIVE transmission into my car if they know its defective after half an hour of looking at it on the SAME DAY. They say the 3rd one is defective from the manufacture....so how come they didn't catch it when they installed it and test drove it? I hate this dealer but other Honda dealers were too far and I would've driven it past 36k. Ugh, I prefer Honda value, content and styling over other companies but this is getting quite bothersome.
I've been thinking about trading it in afterwards but my father is laid off and I haven't found a job yet so I'm not sure what to do. Sorry about the ranting, just thought I'd share my experiences. I wish I hadn't come back to the dealer...
I've driven my 2004 Accord Coupe about 15,500 miles since December 2003. I've never had any reason to look at the condenser, nor have I had a single chip in my paint.
Perhaps it's because I rearely drive fast on unpaved roads.
Since nobody here has sat in your car and heard your specific sound, we can't possibly tell you what's wrong. Your beautiful new car is under Honda's factory warranty, so you should address your question to an authorized Honda service department.
Go to an empty parking lot on a wet surface and drive at medium speed, say 20-30 mph, then slam on your brakes as hard as you can, to try to cause the wheels to skid. IF you feel the same vibration, that is your ABS system activating.
My Taurus will do this occasionally as well, as the ABS system gets fooled by rapidly going around corners with the brakes applied, and it can also happen if one wheel leaves the ground for a brief period of time, ie going into a pothole. The ABS detects this as a slipping wheel and starts actuating with a rapidly vibrating brake pedal the result.
I don't know why, but even Honda engineers mess up from time to time. My old (89?) Civic Si could not be driven in the rain with the window cracked. There were no rain gutters on the roof so when stopped the rain ran off the roof in every direction - including down the side. With the curve of the window, cracking or opening the window would deposit the run off on your left leg and arm. The whole time I had that car I kept thinking "they NEVER drove this in the rain when it was a prototype".
Dennis
No, really? Some people will never believe that.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I just don't think installing thse would be worth the trouble and expense given the remote possibility of damage.
But...that's me.
I just looked at an 03EXI-4, and I don't see any AC line at the front grill as my
03EXV6. Weird.
Instead of placing the cover at the grill, can we put something like a foam insulator around the line like people do it for the water pipe in the house?
Peggy
My guess is that the odds of it happening with this particular design are based on the type of driving you do. Local, low speed driving would probably be the lowest risk. However, in my area, driving on the Interstate has a much higher risk. Often I will actually see rocks thrown up by truck tires and hurled into front ends and windshields of the cars around me. The only defense is to not follow too closely.
Seriously, I would think it would fit in through the opening then just secure it in place.
The large opening is strange, since it appears that aerodynamic considerations and more efficient cooling have led to most cars having much smaller openings or grills than in years past.
Dennis
I just think it would be an oddball thing to ever have that happen again.
I once had two broken windshields in a six month period. That was about fifteen years ago and I haven't had one since. Same driving conditions.
And, yeah, some people do follow much to close. I see this everyday and I would guess those folks get the most damage from flying rocks.
http://www.web-cars.com/detail/touchup.php
http://paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/log_affiliate.cgi?AFFIL=1049
Dennis
1) When tilting open the moonroof, after it has been closed for a while, there is a loud popping sound, sometimes after a short delay. 2) There is an intermittent rattle coming from the back of the moonroof - lubing the moonroof hasn't helped. 3) I hear a tapping or hitting type noise in the headliner behind the moonroof when going over rough road or bumps.
Thanks for your help!
Same kind of damage, the rock just hit something other than the windshield.
Did you ask them?
Two dealers have replaced run channels twice, with significant improvement only temporarily (1-2 weeks only). One dealer tried to lubricate the seals but this didn't seem to help at all, and in fact might have made it worse. I am not sure if that dealer lubricated them correctly, since I have heard on this board there might be different ways to do it.
Please advise! Thanks.
-FS
Does your car have the same problem? Have you tried this, and did it work? Where exactly did you apply the spray? It seems that if I roll the window down, the noise goes away, so maybe I need to apply it to where the glass meets the seal? Or where the seal meets the door? Where exactly should this be done? Thanks.