OK, we disagree. Hondas don't seem to ever use oil between changes but some cars do and I still contend that's pretty normal.
If you really don't think your cars burned "a drop" of oil, you are kidding yourself. They HAVE to use ***some*** oil. Maybe not enought to add between changes but nevertheless, some.
As engines are driven and use the small amount of oil, the contaminants that are being captured in the oil, from startups and normal driving, add to the volume replacing some of the lost oil. Therefore the volume doesn't drop in some cases especially for cars not driven warmed up for long periods of time.
Then if the car is driven on a long highway trip at speed, the oil level drops as part of the contaminants are purged by heat and the engine normal operation, the oil level drops. People conclude that their car used oil on that highway trip while it doesn't ordinarily use oil. E.g., I had approximately 1500-2000 miles and the oil level had dropped about 1/4 quart on the dipstick. After a trip to a doctor of about 60 miles at interstate speeds, the oil level was down about 2/3 quart. The car was driven 10 miles back and forth to work mostly in cool/cold winter weather. The contamination was purged during that long drive and the oil level dropped showing the normal amount of oil useage.
For what I have read, the heatshield bottoms are there to protect against fires if you were to park over long grass, they are not designed to protect the converter. The top heatshield is to protect your car from the heat of the converter, so I would be sure that one is still attached.
I just got an 05 4-DR EX 4cyl and have been hearing a squeek/rattle comming from the rear seat back/deck area. I thought the seat might not be locked in place but after putting it down and up it was still thier. I don't notice it as much when someone rides in the back. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what was it?
If the coolant level is between High & Low in the reserved tank, then that's it. If the reserved tank is empty, you may have to open the radiator cap (when the engine is cold) and fill mixed coolant (50% coolant, 50% distilled water, tab water is OK too) up to the radiator neck.
Was told by my dealer to bring car in for first oil change at 5000 miles (or 4-5 months)and to ask service manager about an additive. Can't recall the name but apparently they highly recommend it.
why not register your vehicle on the Honda website?
depending on your model year and presuming you don't have one, I believe you can download an electronic version of the owner's manual in .pdf format.
i'd recommend reading the document if you are new to cars. there is very good information in it on the location of the various resevoirs and what they hold, and where to find fuses, etc, or how to change a tire. this information could come in handy and also save you money in the future..
you should know where to check the oil, the transmission fluid, the brake fluid, the power steering fluid, the engine coolant fluid, and yes: the windshield washer fluid.
you should know how to check your tire pressure.
you should also know what the various indicators on the dash mean.
the diagrams and accompanying text found in the manual are useful, even to people who are not new to cars. there is no harm in periodically re-reading the important sections.
Both my fog light lenses cracked on my '03 Accord Sedan so I did some checking about a year ago on the topic. Some where I found that 3M has protective film that can be applied to the lenses to protect them from rocks. I was able to get some sample film from the 3M distributor I deal with at work. I hope the film can withstand the temperature when the lights are on. I have done a lot of searching yet, but does anyone know if there are installation instructions floating around somewhere that I could reference when I install the new OEM fog lights with this film?
I must say I'm surprised how long the fog lights have continued to work with cracks and even small holes in the fog light lenses.
First congratulations on your Honda, you picked one of the best cars available.
As others have said read your manual, it has a lot of good maintenance information.
Assuming your dealership is good and you like them, you might want to consider letting them perform your maintenance at their recommend intervals. However, ask them questions and have them explain what they are doing. Verify that they are doing all of the recommended maintenance and not omitting or adding items.
Good Luck and enjoy, you should have many trouble free miles with your car.
cruis'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
P.S.- There are a lot of helpful, knowledgeable posters on the Honda forums, post any questions you have and YES welcome to the Edmund's Honda forums
The problem you described is identical to my '04 Accord EX! It appears to originate in the driver's side rear seat area. I've dropped the seat down and it is a bit louder. This only happens on warm days. Please let me know if you find a remedy, as I will do the same.
I asked this once before, but got no response. I live in Los Angeles, so most of my miles are on freeways, though those freeways are sometimes stop-and-go, as are the city streets. What I'm not clear about is whether I should adopt the "normal" or "severe" maintenance schedule for my new Accord (now approaching 3000 miles). Is city driving by definition "severe"? The guidelines in the manual don't make it clear.
The manual is clear as mud on this subject. It says 10k miles for oil changes for normal duty or one year, whichever comes first. That is too long for my taste. My service manager says 5-6k is a good number for most of us.
I like Mobil 1 oil, but most folks should know that unless you plan on leaving it in the motor for a prolonged period and/or driving under severe/extreme conditions it is just a waste of money as well. If you change the oil regularly and use good old dino oil - and check to make sure the level is correct between changes - then synthetic oils are also "unnecessary and increase the cost of operation".
Didn't say I didn't run them in some of my cars :-) , but I am saying with changes every 3-6k you are pouring a lot of expense oil in the recycle bin.
Many auto manufacturers have switched the types of antifreeze they use in their cars. Some already come pre mixed, so you don't want to add any water. I don't know for sure what Honda uses in their new cars, but it's rated for 5 years 60,000 miles, so it looks like it's the new stuff. You really should not need to add any, but if you do, make sure you use the recommended type. If you have your car serviced by a dealer, they should be checking all fluid levels when they change the oil.
Hi all, I know this is a honda forum but i'll try ask away with my issue anyways to see if i can get a response. i have a 96 nissan maxima and today I tried to start the car but it wont start. There is power but the car wont turn. Any ideas about what might be the problem? I think it's either the spark plugs, starter, or the fuel filter being clogged up. Thanks in advance.
Does anyone here have a link to a .pdf version of a 7th generation Accord Owner's Manual, preferably 2004? If so, please post it. I'd find it useful to just call it up onscreen (as I have with other vehicles) rather than running down to my garage and rummaging in my glove compartment.
Someone posted it was available via owner's link, but I have had my Honda cars and bikes "registered" there and never have a way to D/L from that web site. BMW Owner's Circle does have them in PDF format. Maybe I am missing it, but I never have seen them on the Honda pages.
Took the ole '90 Accord to be emissions tested and it passed (with a bad EGR valve mind you, according to the ECU anyway) but after the test my Sportshift light was flashing, it had defaulted to 2nd gear only limp-mode, and I got TCU errors 1, 2, 7, and 8 having mainly to do with stuck/malfunctioning tranny solenoids. Any clue what in the emissions process would have triggered all of this? I plan on calling tomorrow to see what exactly they do when testing but I was curious if anyone had a theory.
I've reset the ECU/TCU and the car drives fine now with only the normal "malfunctioning EGR valve" error code...but I still wonder what the heck went down at that emissions place. Weird.
You sound like inbetween normal and severe; closer to normal. If you have a 4 cylinder go for 7,500 . If you have a V6 go for 5,000 or if you are mathematically inclined 6,250, 12,500, 18,750, 25,000 ....
Changing at less than 5,000 is a waste.
Cruise on,
MidCow
P.S. - If you decide to use synthetic oil you can increase by another 25-50%
What types of antifreeze? Pre-mixed is not thing new. Just convenience for consumers. More bucks for the dealer. I mix my coolant myself. And I don't use Honda coolant.
Thanks, MidCow, and thanks to all of you who replied. Yes, mine is a 4 cyl. Synthetic oil is another question--is there good reason to use it? (Or to avoid it?)
No way - if you have a current Accord. Or a 2001 S2000 or two different Honda motorcycles.
It says:
Your Owner's Manual contains detailed information about:
Driver and Passenger Safety Instruments and Controls Comfort and Convenience Features Operation Tips Maintenance Appearance Care Taking Care of the Unexpected Technical Information Warranty and Customer Relations Factory Authorized Manuals Service Information Summary
To obtain a printed copy of your Owner's Manual or any other manual covering the operation and servicing of your vehicle, you can order it online or call this toll-free number during the listed hours:
(800) 782-4356 Monday - Friday, 8:00am-6:00pm EST
To order by mail, please contact:
Helm Incorporated P.O. Box 07280 Detroit, MI 48207
I may e-mail them to ask them about a PDF copy since you say you can get one.
i just tried the same for my '03 Odyssey and sure enough, the download link isn't there where it is for the accord, just the link to "order it online".
i assumed (bad assumption) since it worked for my '02 accord, it's there for other model years and vehicles.
perhaps the availability of the web-link depends on the availability of remaining product from prior print runs or something. i have no idea.
it's still worth a try for people with accords '02 or older.
In addition to the temp licence plate on the front and back along with the rear plate holder, my dealer pasted one of their metal badges on the trunk lid. Can these be removed without damaging the paint? This car was delivered in March and the badge may have been on for 3 months.
Once you have the badge off, if there is any adhesive left, take a little WD40 on a rag and rub the adhesive off. The solvents in WD40 work great for softening glue from labels, stickers, and dealer badges.
I have a 1999 honda accord ex. It came from the factory with the 4 cylinder ulev engine. The engine blew up. The engine that I bought to replace it is a lev engine, the same year model. What is the difference between these two engines? I have put the lev engine in the car. If you give the car gas above 2000 rpm, it stalls. If you slowly give it gas, then it doesn't stall. If the engine does get up to 3000 or higher rpm and you let off the gas, it stalls. I took every sensor off the old engine and put them on the new engine. It is still stalling. The main thing I need to know is, what is the differences in these two engines? If someone does know why it is stalling, I would love to know that too.
I had the same problem and had to take the frame off. My teenage son figured it out. He said Dad there is a bad rattle back here and I think it is the license plate.
I just bought an EX-4cyl AT a couple of weeks ago and was wondering if there is a way to test the alarm system that comes with the car? The owner's manual doesn't give enough details. If any door is opened, as long as the car is not broken into the alarm will not sound. So, how do we know if it is working properly? Is there a way to test it? Thanks.
I can download Owner's Manual for my Accord 02 but no download for Accord 03. When I bought the 03 the saleman told me If I want I need to buy it. For the Accord hybrid they gave me a free owner's manual.
I just noticed that with every oil filter change my dealership charged my wife .25 cents for a washer. :confuse: What is this? Is this necessary or the washer can be reused? I know is not much $$$ just curious.
something they call the "crush-washer" - it's for the bolt going back into the oil pan to make a good seal. you want a new crush-washer. it's $0.25 well spent and you should be glad the dealership makes this replacement! when you go to one of the chain stores, i'm not confident you get a new washer.
FWIW: I will try this myself to see how well it works. I wonder if it will help remove pine sap. i tried some cooking oil but that didn't work well softening and removing the sap.
what i did find that worked well, even on dried-on pine sap was something called 3M Adhesive Cleaner (comes in a can - available at NAPA auto stores). I had read about this in another forum here at Edmunds. After removing the pine sap, I washed and re-waxed the area. The other forum (I can't seem to remember which one exactly ) had great advice on removing bumper stickers too. WD-40 might have been one of the recommendations for that purpose.
I have the Honda dealer change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles. That translates into and oil and filter change every two months, since I put on about 1,500 miles a month. I have an on-going appointment for this service with the dealer. My driving includes: ---- highway, city and a lot of idling. Since purchasing my used 4 cylinder Accord, I have been doing a lot of reading about vehicle maintenance. Most text books advocate 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. One book stated that clean oil, will give you better miles per gallon because of a friction issue. Since I am not a mechanic, and the oil and filter change is VERY reasonable, and money is not and issue, I have this service performed at the dealer at 3,000 mile intervals.
You wrote "Most text books advocate 3,000 mile oil and filter changes." That is VERY old-school. If that is in a textbook, the book was written many years ago, before advances in lubrication technology and engine design made 3,000 mile oil changes ancient history.
The only advantage to such frequent waste of oil, that could otherwise be used to refine gasoline (and therefore increase fuel supply and lower its price), is to increase the profit of the oil companies and local oil change emporiums.
You should consider following the oil change interval recommendations of the engineers who designed your vehicle's engine. That information is easily found in the the Maintenance section of the Owner's Manual in your glove compartment.
Comments
If you really don't think your cars burned "a drop" of oil, you are kidding yourself. They HAVE to use ***some*** oil. Maybe not enought to add between changes but nevertheless, some.
Then if the car is driven on a long highway trip at speed, the oil level drops as part of the contaminants are purged by heat and the engine normal operation, the oil level drops. People conclude that their car used oil on that highway trip while it doesn't ordinarily use oil. E.g., I had approximately 1500-2000 miles and the oil level had dropped about 1/4 quart on the dipstick. After a trip to a doctor of about 60 miles at interstate speeds, the oil level was down about 2/3 quart. The car was driven 10 miles back and forth to work mostly in cool/cold winter weather. The contamination was purged during that long drive and the oil level dropped showing the normal amount of oil useage.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
mrbill
Thanks,
Larry
So am I supposed to add water anywhere, or is just the windshield and coolant it? I mean aside from oils, that is?
If the reserved tank is empty, you may have to open the radiator cap (when the engine is cold) and fill mixed coolant (50% coolant, 50% distilled water, tab water is OK too) up to the radiator neck.
Anyone getting a similar story?
depending on your model year and presuming you don't have one, I believe you can download an electronic version of the owner's manual in .pdf format.
i'd recommend reading the document if you are new to cars. there is very good information in it on the location of the various resevoirs and what they hold, and where to find fuses, etc, or how to change a tire. this information could come in handy and also save you money in the future..
you should know where to check the oil, the transmission fluid, the brake fluid, the power steering fluid, the engine coolant fluid, and yes: the windshield washer fluid.
you should know how to check your tire pressure.
you should also know what the various indicators on the dash mean.
the diagrams and accompanying text found in the manual are useful, even to people who are not new to cars. there is no harm in periodically re-reading the important sections.
regards.
I must say I'm surprised how long the fog lights have continued to work with cracks and even small holes in the fog light lenses.
First congratulations on your Honda, you picked one of the best cars available.
As others have said read your manual, it has a lot of good maintenance information.
Assuming your dealership is good and you like them, you might want to consider letting them perform your maintenance at their recommend intervals. However, ask them questions and have them explain what they are doing. Verify that they are doing all of the recommended maintenance and not omitting or adding items.
Good Luck and enjoy, you should have many trouble free miles with your car.
cruis'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
P.S.- There are a lot of helpful, knowledgeable posters on the Honda forums, post any questions you have and YES welcome to the Edmund's Honda forums
Maybe I do it too often but it makes me feel better.
Dennis
Here's the official word from Honda of America:
"...Engine Oil Additives
Today's engine oils are formulated to maximize performance. Additives are unnecessary and increase the cost of operation..."
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/Maintenance/maint_prev_maint.asp
Additive vendors would dispute the above, but we know where they're coming from.
Didn't say I didn't run them in some of my cars :-) , but I am saying with changes every 3-6k you are pouring a lot of expense oil in the recycle bin.
Dennis
mrbill
- If no cranking, may be your battery is dead.
- May be dead starter.
- May be no more fuel or other reasons.
- You may want to try a jump start.
Do you get the engine cranking? If somebody's over there with you it is much easier to diagnose the problem.
Dennis
I've reset the ECU/TCU and the car drives fine now with only the normal "malfunctioning EGR valve" error code...but I still wonder what the heck went down at that emissions place. Weird.
Changing at less than 5,000 is a waste.
Cruise on,
MidCow
P.S. - If you decide to use synthetic oil you can increase by another 25-50%
Pre-mixed is not thing new. Just convenience for consumers. More bucks for the
dealer.
I mix my coolant myself. And I don't use Honda coolant.
login. you should be at My Vehicle
click on Maintenance Schedule on the left.
Click on Owner's Manual
Click on View or Download.
it's there for my 02 Accord...all 373 pages of it.
try it.
It says:
Your Owner's Manual contains detailed information about:
Driver and Passenger Safety
Instruments and Controls
Comfort and Convenience Features
Operation Tips
Maintenance
Appearance Care
Taking Care of the Unexpected
Technical Information
Warranty and Customer Relations
Factory Authorized Manuals
Service Information Summary
To obtain a printed copy of your Owner's Manual or any other manual covering the operation and servicing of your vehicle, you can order it online or call this toll-free number during the listed hours:
(800) 782-4356
Monday - Friday, 8:00am-6:00pm EST
To order by mail, please contact:
Helm Incorporated
P.O. Box 07280
Detroit, MI 48207
I may e-mail them to ask them about a PDF copy since you say you can get one.
Dennis
i just tried the same for my '03 Odyssey and sure enough, the download link isn't there where it is for the accord, just the link to "order it online".
i assumed (bad assumption) since it worked for my '02 accord, it's there for other model years and vehicles.
perhaps the availability of the web-link depends on the availability of remaining product from prior print runs or something. i have no idea.
it's still worth a try for people with accords '02 or older.
someone else, please try and let us know.
good luck
Dennis
Thanks
Larry
You might want to try a hair dryer to very carefully apply heat to the adhesive, using just enough heat to permit gently dislodging the badge.
Mrbill
I can download Owner's Manual for my Accord 02 but no download for Accord 03. When I bought the 03 the saleman told me If I want I need to buy it. For the Accord hybrid they gave me a free owner's manual.
what i did find that worked well, even on dried-on pine sap was something called 3M Adhesive Cleaner (comes in a can - available at NAPA auto stores). I had read about this in another forum here at Edmunds. After removing the pine sap, I washed and re-waxed the area. The other forum (I can't seem to remember which one exactly ) had great advice on removing bumper stickers too. WD-40 might have been one of the recommendations for that purpose.
You should be able to easily remove pine sap with Bug & Tar Remover. You can find it at any auto supply store.
You wrote "Most text books advocate 3,000 mile oil and filter changes." That is VERY old-school. If that is in a textbook, the book was written many years ago, before advances in lubrication technology and engine design made 3,000 mile oil changes ancient history.
The only advantage to such frequent waste of oil, that could otherwise be used to refine gasoline (and therefore increase fuel supply and lower its price), is to increase the profit of the oil companies and local oil change emporiums.
You should consider following the oil change interval recommendations of the engineers who designed your vehicle's engine. That information is easily found in the the Maintenance section of the Owner's Manual in your glove compartment.