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1. The A/C doesn't work. The freon tank is still has coolant, so the problem is probably electrical.
2. There's a hole somewhere b/n the engine and the muffler - the car is LOUD.
Can anyone point me in the right direction of a honda mechanic that won't rip me off?
Thanks,
frank
Mrbill
1) Turn on the A/C in fresh air mode - since the air inside of the car is TONS hotter than the outside air you want to try to cool the outside air.
2) Open the sunroof (if equipped) and roll down some windows - either partially or all the way if your hair (if equipped) can stand the wind. The faster you get the super-heated inside air out the quicker the car will cool.
3) Once you have the interior of the car down to outside temperate (this can take a few minutes) THEN switch the control to recirculate to finish cooling down the car.
4) Once you have cooled off, go back to fresh air mode. This gets the moisture out of the system lot better. Also, if you run in recirculate mode and a low fan speed you can ice up the coil (to be honest I have not seen this since we quit using Freon).
Some cars have carbon cabin filters and some even have "smart" sensors that will switch to recirculate if they detect certain things in the fresh air. Some work pretty good.
It is amazing to me when I see folks get into a car that is 150 degrees and set it for "max a/c" or hit the recirculate button thinking it will cool them down quicker.
As far as the smell goes, what lorryfan finds nasty could be anything from a dead critter to something leaking out of the motor to normal smells - I can't tell through the Internet what it smells like :-) I would get someone else to smell it and maybe run by the dealer. I think the car is NEW so I would bet it is way too young for a huge mildew/mold problem.
Dennis
engine.
In all of my cars the idle would kick up when you activated the a/c to counteract the extra load. I would imagine this is still the case. Perhaps that idle kick up valve or whatever it is has simply failed?
Jon
Flip on the AC, turn on some load-generating accessories, drive it around the block - they may kick on. If it feels hot - it's because it is.... 180 degrees or so at least
Your fans didn't turn on because you let the hood open. Heat goes up.
So, we had the vapor locking in hot weather and the engine shutting off problem and replacing this part solved the problem. The car just had a problem maintaining fuel pressure because of this bad regulator. Regulator costs around $135 and labor brought the total bill to about $200.
Larry
NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM, WHEN I ACCELERATE, WHETHER FROM A STAND STILL OR WHILE I'm AT A STEADY PACE, I GET A WHISTLING NOISE. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT IS, ANYONE EXPERIENCE THIS?
Depending how you look at it....I guess it is a good problem to have.
I believe that your problem is related to the fuel pump relay. This is a pattern failure associated with many Honda/Acura cars. Part price 30-60 dollars. Might be worth it to try and see.
If the car has not been in an accident the motor mounts may be worn out. I've been seeing early failure on Acura vehicles. My own 93 accord EX benefited from new mounts with a similar problem. I recommend replacing all four mounts. The expensive mount is in the rear. Most dealers will try to talk you out of this due to the time involved, it did fix my problem!
An '02 should still be under warranty? If so just run by the dealer they should read it for free and fix the problem.
Dennis
I have read on this board about "ABS self check" as maybe being part of the problem? Did own a 2002 EX6 Coupe and never had this problem. Was wondering if others had this problem and what solutions there were for this problem?
Going to dealer once again today.
Other than that, I have enjoyed the car.
Thanks.
Thank You
Tom
One day though, I had to carry something flat in the trunk. Coming home, I forgot to re-hang the cargo net. I noticed no more noise! I reconnected the cargo net to the top pins where it hangs in the trunk and the noise re-appeared. Since I took the cargo net down, I can still hear that noise very faintly now and again over a really severe bump, but it has largely stopped.
Go figure, right? I'm guessing maybe something about the cargo net was causing or inhibiting either the flex of the trunk interior or the panel that covers the spare tire - but I'm just guessing - I have no #@$%^&*() clue at this point. :confuse:
But I LOVED that car - couldn't kill it - sold it with well over 100K on it and mostly everything original. Just goes to show - even a Honda that stinks is still better than most other cars!
And another question. Once in a while the green light on the dash board goes on! the manual says I should go to the dealer and check the transmission, which I did. Transmission turned out to be ok. I changed the radiator and the green light hasn't come on since .
Cheers,
Francis
I need the help from better car experts than I am
I got a strange problem with our 2004 Accord V6 (38,000 km).
We are having hot weather now (32C). Yesterday my wife told me that the car developed some continuous scratching noise during the left turns, from the right side under the hood.
I initially (remotely) suspected that some part (plastic cover, etc.) got loose, and the wheel is touching it when turning.
After inspecting the car, I found no traces of wheel contacting the body. The noise was definitely there, and while turning to the left only! Going straight or turning right was OK.
Shortly thereafter, I found that the water (I assume it was the water - no smell, no color) is leaking from under the right side of the dash to the front passenger floor. After a half-an-hour ride the water was all over the rug.
When I turned AC off, the left-turn noise and water-dripping continued. After I completely shut the whole HVAC system, all stopped! No noise, no water in the cabin. I assumed that some mechanical part movement during the left turn may cause the contact of something with something, and the subsequent problem with water.
So I went to the dealership today. First, they said they never heard about such left vs. right-side oriented problem with AC (they suggested it's AC).
Then they checked something and told me they found the problem - the AC drain plug was clogged with leaves etc., and that caused the noise and the leakage into the cabin. I asked why it's only while turning to the left - the service advisor told me something like "the water inside whirls to the left, so it splashes out while left-turning". Of course, it was not a good explanation, but I decided that the main thing for me to get the thing fixed, so didn't ask more questions. They suggested that they "clean out AC overflow drain tube" (as in the invoice), and also replace AC dust and pollen filter, as it got dirty or whatever during the ordeal (and this replacement is scheduled for 48,000 km maintenance anyway, so they will not do that then). OK, I said.
Got back there at lunch time, paid the invoice, and picked up the car. Immediately after I went out, I found that all the problems are still there! The noise and the water coming inside. There were differences though: the noise acquired the hissing tone, and now it went on not only when left-turning, but also when changing lanes to the left!
I had no time to go back. I called the dealership and asked what exactly did they fix and I pay for, and asked for their advice on how to operate the car safely in that condition (should I turn HVAC off?). They said they will ask the mechanic and call me back. They never called me back for next 4 hours. I called them and learned that mechanic left for a while, and they will be closed in 15 minutes, so they have no info for me, and that's why they didn't call.
I tried to be polite and demanded the explanation anyway. They called me back in 5 minutes (the mechanic came back to work), and said that the mechanic made a test drive, and everything was fine. Also they told me that it is OK to have AC on even if there is such noise and water comes to the cabin, it is safe.
I am coming back to the dealership tomorrow.
My questions are:
- What is that problem? Did anybody have anything similar?
- Is it safe to have AC on in these conditions?
- Was it necessary to change AC filter?
- Should I stay away from that dealership? :mad:
Thanks a lot in advance, and sorry for the long post.
If it continues leaking into the cabin, have it fixed (by other dealer) ASAP.
Electrical components inside the cabin don't react well to water.
There may be some water left over after they fixed the drain.
Does the sound like a squeaking belt? You could have a loose AC belt.
With the car in Park and the AC on, turn the steering wheel to the left, see if you can hear the noise.
Also let the AC run for several minutes. Turn the car off. Wait for some time and
check if there is a puddle somewhere underneath the engine. If there is, the clogged drain is fixed.
The A/C system evaporator is inside the dash - with the A/C on it cools the air and removes the moisture from the air. This condensate drips off the coil and into the plastic housing then is SUPPOSED to drain out the bottom of the car via a rubber tube. If the tube becomes clogged then the water will either fill up the housing and "drown" the evaporator (at which point it will cease cooling the car) or it will overflow into the car - and sometimes both.
Sounds like they cleaned the crud out of the tube but did not get it all and it stopped up again. I am not sure if you can see the housing and drain tube on you car is located - it may be possible to pull the tube off the housing and drain the housing yourself (using a bowl or something to catch the water). On my old '83 GTI this used to happen a lot and I would have to pull the tube and use something like a stick or pen to clean the blockage in the tube and in the housing.
Your car would seem too new to be having this problem, however.
Dennis
You know it's blocked if you have the car stopped, the AC is on, but when you look under the car, there isn't water drops comming down at a good rate as the AC runs.
Now then, if your car is relatively recent model (04) and you are pretty sure you haven't been parking under pine trees or the like, and when you open the hood, the area below the windshield hasn't trapped much debris, you might be dealing with a collapsed drain tube. They blow air through it, and it opens, drains alot of water, then collapses again (maybe it's crimped).
They should replace the drain tube probably.
More questions: the car does not have power locks, nor does it have more than the 2 front kick panel speakers. I see that the wiring is in place for the rear 6x9 speakers, but I would like to add a set of components for the front, using the stock placement for the tweeters (up in the windshield corners on the dash). How nasty of a job is it to get to that? Is the wiring in place already? As for the power locks, same question: is the hardware in place already, and its just a matter of adding the wiring and the switches? I'd be more than willing to rip apart the interior if thats the case.
Thanks for the help.
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I'm a bit sensitive when it comes to cars that I own. I tend to feel, hear and sense things that others wouldn't even consider or notice.
When i'm at stop with the A/C on, the car vibrates a bit, which is normal. However, when the compressor kicks in, the vibration increases a bit, which is normal. Then the compressor cuts off and that's when the car lurches. I tried depressing the brake harder, but it still does it but not as much. I don't see this as normal because who literally steps on their brakes at stop?
Anyone else having this problem? Am I being overly sensitive? Before, this is my first 4 clyinder in about 10 years. However, the previous 4 cylinders I've owned (hyundai sonata's) didn't have this type of problem.