I have the same car (EX-L '04) and notice the A/C cycles, but there is no lurching as you describe. There's nominal vibration when waiting for a traffic light, but it's not enough to be annoying.
The RPM drops when the A/C kicks in and rises when it cycles off, so that could cause the car to accelerate slightly if the brake pedal isn't pressed.
I almost always keep my foot on the brake when stopped at traffic lights so that might be why I don't notice any lurch.
In any case, I don't think you have anything to be concerned about..................Richard
I came back from a month long vacation and successfully started my Honda accord 2000. Since I was going away on a vacation for a month, had made sure to park the car on level ground. I have the habit of using the hand brakes and so released it and put the car into reverse and pressed on the gas lightly, car did not move. So, I pushed a little harder and heard a loud noise and was not happy and not wishing to take any chances, decided to go forward. Same thing, car did not move and when I pressed the gas pedal more, same loud noise and the car moved.
Then the problem started, car started moving and I could hear a noise coming from under the hood (constant highway noise when car goes over blocks of concrete). This periodic noise was only when the car went forward and NOT reverse.
After about half hour of driving, this sound lessened...but the real problem was BRAKING. When I brake, I can feel something pushing back on the brake pedal continuously and car is taking a long while to stop. As I press on the brake pedal, I do hear the loud periodic noise...
A month before I left I got the car serviced and the mechanic told me that there was 60% wear on the brakes. Can this be a brake problem? Or is this explained by the fact that the car was parked for a long time and some rust had settled in causing the loud noise and something bad happened as a result of this? It has been insanely hot over the last couple of weeks, temperatures touching 98 degrees... can this have added to be the cause of the problem? Is there something which I can check before going to the mechanic?
88buck, did the igniter fix your problem? I have a similar problem with my 89 Accord LX with 197,000 miles, after 15 minutes of driving, it starts chugging and then stalls. I have to crank a number of times before it restarts. Only happens in the morning on the way to work, won't happen in the afternoon coming home. Weird how the tach drops to zero like a rock when it stalls, but the engine lights don't come on. If I can let the car drift long enough, the tach pops back up to normal and it runs fine the rest of the way to work. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, distributor cap and rotor button, all to no avail. I'm desperate now, not sure what to replace. Igniter is very expensive.
This is the only car I have ever bought new. Can anyone tell me at approximately what mileage do the timing belts go? Your personal knowledge, experience will help me judge when I should replace mine. If the belt brakes, will it take the engine with it? Or is this a case of how fast the vehicle is being driven when the belt goes? PLEASE HELP. Thank you in advance!
[quote="korvsjap"] I don't see this as normal because who literally steps on their brakes at stop? [/quote]
Everyone, I hope.
Could try a neutral shift while waiting at lights. Any change in RPM is going to be negotiated by the trans.... you claim to be overly-sensitive - are you sure this is a lurch as you say, or is it more of a nudge? Nudge would be normal.
Sounds like a stuck brake caliper, maybe a stuck e-brake. You should drive (carefully) straight to a brake shop or the dealer to get it looked at. With it stuck you could overheat and boil the brake fluid, warp the rotors, cook the pads, or all of the above which will result in a "no brake" condition.
Your e-brake rusted up. The noise under the hood is likely belts & motor workign overtime to overcome the resistance of your frozen brakes.
e-brakes are that - for emergencies. An exception would be parking a stick on an extreme hill... but unless it is San Francisco - a 1st gear park should be sufficient. If your car is rolling, then you have compression and leakage issues and the car needs to be in the shop.
Never use your e-brake for a month at a time and expect things not to rust up. If you were on halfway level ground, you would have been fine either in gear as a stick, or in park as an auto.
Get it towed to a brake shop before you do more damage. You are likely looking at rotor and caliper replacements already, as well as belts and possible clutch/trans work.
I took the car to the mechanic this morning - he saw the rotors on the front wheels and said that there was already rust built up. He also took the car out for a test ride and said that the car was in good shape except for the brakes and opined that it was good for a few months since the brakes were 60% worn. He didnt say a thing about e-brakes...and yes, he too observed that brake pedals pulsating when he tried to apply brake and explained that with constant use, chances were that it will go away.
With everything both of you have written, the car seems to be in some serious trouble.
Mechanic didnt think so. Now, I am really confused, kindly write what is the next best thing I can do before there is greater damage?
How can I check for a frozen or stuck e-brake? I have used the e-brake twice in the past (once in winter, feb and another in fall, oct) when I had taken off for 1 month vacations and nothing like that happened. But, this was the first time I took a vacation in spring/summer time frame, there were lot of rains/severe temperatures from what I hear, rust formation most certainly would have occured.
Hard to say, since we can't see, feel, or touch this online. If you have it on a flat spot turn the car put the car in neutral with the e-brake off and try to roll the car forward and backward by pushing it. It there is a brake stuck you will have a hard time moving it. If it rolls easy, then it may not be stuck - just a warped rotor or something? Most shops will inspect brakes for free so it may be time for a second opinion.
That belt needs to be changed every 105,000 miles or seven years whatever comes first. If you leave it alone, it'll probably last 150,000 miles or even a lot longer. If it snaps, it can cause severe engine damage and you will be stranded.
Speed has nothing to do with it. Don't be foolish, just get it changed. While they are "in there" have them change the water pump and drive belts at the same time for no additional labor.
If you don't like the paint, you should have chosen a different colour.
If you send the car "back" to China, the authorities there are going to say "What do you want us to do with a car mfg'ed by a Japanese company and was manufactured in the US?"
I had front rotors+pads and rear pads replaced at 25K. At 15K I complained about loud squeaking and vibration and they turned the rotors.
At 40K now the probs are appearing again.
The problem is NOT your driving. My 97 corolla never had a brake problem in the 5 years I drove it before I got the Accord. If anything I drive slower and less hard on my accord than I did the corolla because i'm older than when I got the corolla!
Puddles are a fact of life, you cannot avoid them. As is road salt in the northern climes.
I've been told that they are making rotors too thin to cut costs, and that a groove along the outer edges of the rotor has made the problems worse by allowing more rust to build up.
OK. When the car was running, I put it in Neutral and pushed it backwards and forwards - car moved fine. I tried the same with the e-brake ON, the car wouldnt budge. This gives me enough confidence that e-brake is not stuck and working normally.
I observed one other thing...I hear the periodic/cyclic noise even when the car is in FORWARD motion...does this strike to you as something OTHER THAN a BRAKE problem. I dont hear this sound at high speeds, but at slow speeds, its hard to miss. What is puzzling me is that I could not hear this sound in the morning when the mechanic took it for a test ride. Pointers appreciated.
Sooo, You think up to 150K ? I Know, I know 105k or 7 years. I've got 102K, and it does worry ya if you care at all, and I do care. Good (Honest) places have quoted me 500.00 for parts and labor, I wonder what the added expense will be for that pump? I know the price of the pump+ whatever gaff charges they want to hit me with. The tensioners on this belt, I assume is not a big deal for a mechanic of normal ability? Thanks, for the help 4 sure. Ed
I own a 2004 Accord V6 and I have been hearing a whirring noise at around 40-45 miles per hour. It started soon after I bought the car. I now have about 18,000 miles on the car. The noise is independent of engine speed, I get the same noise in Drive, Drive3, and Neutral. Putting pressure on the shift lever used to make the sound stop. That is no longer true. Did you ever get an answer from Honda for your noise?
I picked up my EX6 today. Drove away w/the new(remanuf.) trans in and according to S/A and paperwork, road test said all was ok. About 10 miles down the road the "D" light on the trans. selection lineup starts flashing and putting the car in any gear results in a serious "lurch". I was almost starting to lose the apprehension upon first driving after getting it back on the road. Back to the dealer tomorrow. Stay tuned.
I am considering purchasing a 2002 Accord SE with 85k miles for a great price from a reputable dealer. It seems to be in excellent condition mechanically and physically. The original owner has all of the paperwork for the oil changes and regular maintenance etc. My only concern is the higher mileage. Does anyone else out there have this same make and model with similar miles. If so, have you had any problems? Would you recommend this buy? Just curious......
Ed, I had a 98 EX 4 cyl. I had the belt and water pump changed at around 110,000 miles. I first called my local Honda shop and they gave me a price of almost $800. I then took it to my local mechanic and he did it for $400. New timing belt, water pump, tensioners, etc. As I recall, that Honda engine is considered "interference" - meaning if the timing belt breaks the valves will come in contact with the pistons - which is bad. If that happens, that will cost you a lot of money. So for peace of mind, have it changed along with the other items. Just shop around - I found the locals to be cheaper than the dealerships. Hope this helps.
I have some more to add to the initial observations, when I make a left turn, I hear the grinding noise, please note that I did not touch the brake pedal...even when the car was in regular forward motion, I am hearing this grinding noise...this morning, I didnt hear the same grinding noise when I applied the brakes and also I did the e-brake testing which you suggested yesterday. I am beginning to think that brakes are working just fine and its something else and it has to do with the wheels...Also, what I saw this morning was akin to being in an airplane...I know its tough to say anything...any pointers appreciated.
I am taking the car to another mechanic for a second opinion.
I'm experiencing an alarm / security system / electrical problem with my 03 Accord EX. The car has been great until this electrical problem started creeping up. Was your electrical problem ever resolved? Did Honda replace your car? I'm on my 6th replacement part and I'm not sure how I should proceed getting this car fixed.
I posted as comment about Honda Accord brakes based on evaluations in another web site under Yahoo. The evaluations were very positive but one common theme is nagging me. 18 out of 8o evaluations listed something related to the brakes as a negative. any reaction???
Yes this helps. I have a local shop willing to do the belt for around 500, with the pump I dont know what it will be. It is the only place I trust, and I live in Northern Virginia. I cannot trust a Honda dealer nor afford one. I started selling cars in 1975 and have seen way too much. I am a little shocked to think the engine would go if the belt breaks. This was always an issue on earlier model cars, I did not think it was this way in 1998, especially on a Honda.
I have a similar problem with my 93 accord. When the driver's window gets to the top it moves slightly forward causing a bad seal in the top rear corner of the window. I had the exact same problem with my 87 only it was on the passenger side. I suspect this is a mechanical problem and don't know if new seals is the best solution. Does anyone have experience with this?
I have a 02 EXV6 with 75k and it drives like the day I got it. The only problems so far was a blown rear main oil seal at 37k. Dealer replaced it under warrenty. I put new brakes on all 4 @ 70k and working on my second set of tires. I would not hesitate with a V6 or 4cyl Accord if you feel it has been serviced. Has the Trans oil been changed?
Hello! I just bought 2002 Honda Accord 4 cyc, AT. When I shift to R, I feel the car shakes a little bit. When I shift to D, it has no more shake. Is something wrong with engine mount or transmission or it is normal. I drive my daughter's Accord V6, 2005. It is very smooth, not shakes like my car. Please tell me what I can do. Should I take it back to the dealer I bought it to complaint? Thanks.
Does anyone have any good advice on fixing a shipped winshield yourself? Any good products?
Driving down I-696 yesterday in my 3 week old Accord one of those rocks from out of nowhere landed on my windshield and make a nice deep gouge in the glass... Not a circular chip but an actual 1/6" long gouge to right and a little below my line of site over the steering wheel... It's rather annoying and looks like it could spread if left intreated.
All of my searches on the internet for information keep leading to business "opportunities" rather than people who have actually repaired their windshields....
Just wondering if anyone has successfully had something like this repaired or repaired it themselves....
Not a DIY job. Look in the yellow pages for guys who can repair these. If you wait very long it'll be a moot point since it'll probably spread and you'll need a new windshield.
It's normal due to resonance, idle speed (different than the 6cyl) and load on the trans. Don't worry about it unless it gets worse, then have the mounts inspected.
Call your insurance agent. My insurance company (and probably most others) will pay to patch a chipped windshield free of charge with $0 deductible no matter what deductible you carry on the policy. They want to nip the problem in the bud, as Barney Fife used to say. Since if you/they let it go it would lead to needing a whole new hunk of glass or it be dangerous.
The damage you describe cannot be satisfactorily repaired. A deep gouge or grove cut into the windshield cannot be polished or heated to disguise it. It is possible to grind the windshield to remove a small layer of surrounding glass in an effort to make it less noticeable. However, this will result in optical distortion because the refractive index at the site of the repair changes. Depending on the location, this can be very annoying and even dangerous when driving.
We are all familiar with the ads that show a repair for the small bull's-eye type damage to a windshield. This can be successful if the surface of the glass is smooth and the damage consists of small sub-surface cracks. If you can put your fingernail into the surface, an acceptable repair is unlikely.
The best solution is to replace the windshield. This is not as dire as it sounds. It costs around $300 or less and can be done by a mobile repair man at your location. I saw a man performing this on a co-worker's car last week. Most insurance companies will cover the cost.
I have never seen a gouge in glass from a rock. The damage to the glass would be from the mass of the object pushing on the glass and cracking it. To leave a gouge as a result, the rock would have to be harder than the glass. Is it possible the track you're seeing is removable? Is there no cracking showing?
My State Farm insurance repaired an impact bullseye near the bottom of the glass by drilling to relieve pressure and filling with silicone. Never gave more trouble and cracking didn't spread downward since it was only 3 inches from bottom of glass. If the damage is in your line of sight as the driver, it's probably best to replace. If it's not in front of driver, I'd see what insurance agent and company suggest. The repair people may be able to do something creative with a filler and leveler -- if that gouge isn't removable.
I did a little research on the type of repair you referred to. This consists of a high-pressure resin fill, hardened by a powerful UV light. All honest experts admit that the repair will still be noticeable, although slight, in some cases, with 90% optical clarity restored. However, they all agree that a repair in the driver's line-of-sight would be unsatisfactory. Care should be taken when finding a windshield repair company as shoddy work abounds
Thanks for everyone's assistance... Appreciate it.
Maybe it wasn't a rock that hit me yesterday... At first I thought and hoped it was a large bug because some small portion of whatever it was had stuck to the windshield... I hoped it was a bug so I hit the washers and whatever was left there washed off and left what looked like a dark stain like big remains... Looking at it while driving (not a good idea!) it looked more and more like a long'ish gouge/scratch... Not a star, half moon, or anything else that I saw in the pictures on the web. It was raining and I was late coming home late and angry so I just had to walk away from the car and not look at it until today.
I looked at this morning before coming to work when it was still a little dark out and it appeared to be a gouge. In the light of day it is now a pin prick sized hole and the gouge is actually a wide "crack" underneath the surface. Really hard to explain it... looks weird and I am not even positive that the pin sized hole goes through the cracking underneath the surface.
I just went to two automotive stores near to work (the first one had sold out of window repair kits) and bought a resin kit. Looks Like I have to drill out the pin sized hole a little bit in order to shoot the resin in it. Hmm... Hope I can hold my dremel tool steady for this one!
My girlfriend said her car has a chip in her windshield so maybe I should practice on her Ford first?
I'm curious to see if I can somehow smooth the resin to be smooth with the windshield or if it will look like a clear protrusion from the glass.
What really gets me though is the car is not even three weeks old and the window is chipped and 2 weeks ago someone hit my rear passenger door with what had to be their side review mirror and scratched the handle. Looked like someone was speeding through the parking lot and graised my car with their mirror. I was happier with my old car because I didn't care when these things happened!
My wife had a 99 camry 4cyl and recently acquired an 50 accord ex 4cyl. She complains about the high idle on the car when backing out our driveway. Her camry was much less. The dealer tells me it is not adjustable. Does anyone have any input on this?
I would go with other recommendations of going to your insurance agent. If you try a repair, and are not happy with it, then decide to go to your agent, they may not cover a botched repair attempt because it may be too late to have it re-repaired professionally. Also, if it isn't perfect, it's going to drive you nuts every time you see it, reminding of you that it happened to your new car. If you have a concern that your insurance won't cover the initial repair cause it's only a small chip, give it a push from the inside. When the chip turns into a crack shooting across the window, you will be sure of getting a replaced and not repaired windshield.
I'm driving cross-country from Fort Lauderdale to LA (almost there now!). While still in Florida my car's A/C went out... the blowers worked, but there was no cold air. I took it to a shop, who deduced an electrical problem, replaced a fuse and a relay and sent me on my way. The air conditioner worked well after that.
Ever since then, when I turn off the car and take the keys out of the ignition the air conditioner will still stay on. Not every time, mind you, but occasionally. Leaving it alone for a couple of minutes, then moving the car and shutting it off again seems to fix the problem, but just repeatedly starting and shutting down the car when the problem first manifests doesn't. I'm not noticing a correlation between when the problem happens and other factors (e.g. length of time driven, number of miles driven, etc.)
In case any of this is relevant: It's a '94 Honda Accord, 114,000 miles, and was just fully serviced (the 90,000 tuneup, timing belts replaced) earlier this week. Taking it to the shop where the airconditioning unit was fixed isn't an option; it's in Tampa and I'm writing this from Arizona.
Let the car warm up a minute before putting it in gear. Once it has been running, idle will drop to between 700 and 900. That is when it is ready to drive.
My 2 cents: the relay is defective, sticking even after ignition switch-off. It's an inexpensive part replacement where labor will probably cost more. If DIY isn't possible, you could get the part from Autozone and ask them to help you install it.
I traded a 02 camry in on my 04 accord lx 4cyl and noticed the same thing right away. I bought the accord in August 04 and the car idled high for quite awhile even in 90 degree heat. During the winter months it took 5 minutes or better before the idle would drop down. I took my to the dealer, left it overnight for them to check it out. The service manager told me that they tested mine and a couple of accords on their lot and all idled the same - meaning the high idle is normal. He also told me no adjustment is possible except at the factory. So I live with a racing engine for the first several minutes, the trick is to avoid any slippery spots on the street during this time.
I have 2001 LX V6. 3 days ago, there was a bit of whinning noise from the engine and battery dash light came on. I changed the battery to new one today. I went to step on the gas and as the RPM reaches 3-4000, other dash lights came on briefly, including SRS, door ajar, battery, and parking brake lights. After 2-3 seconds they all went off. Do I need to go to the dealership or is this common after the battery change? Any form of reply would be appreciated.
That sounds like an electrical problem but not necessarily related to the battery, but more likely the alternator or some other electrical gremlin. Have you checked the alternator belt?
question...I just got new brake pads and my rotors turned..when I left the shop I looked at my rotors and they were a nice silverish color not rusty orange like before they were turned and now a few days later there rusty orange again.I figured this was normal until I glanced at a few other cars and there rotors were the nice silverish color mine were when I left the shop, why did mine turn burnt orange again? Is this normal? and if so why did the 4 or 5 other cars I looked at have nice silverish rotors...assuming they all didnt turn there rotors that day!(i'm a female and no very little about cars obviously)just want to know if mine are rusty for some strange reason or if its normal
All rotors will rust if exposed to water or high humidity. What makes them look silvery is when you brake. The brake pads scrape off the surface rust, and they look silver again. If a car sits for a long time and the rotors are exposed to moisture, they may build up enough rust that even braking will not clean them up. Then they will need to be turned. Don't worry, what you see is perfectly normal.
• October 8 - Roger wrote: Last week I turned over 600,000 miles on my 1987 Honda Accord. The internal parts of the engine have never been touched. It runs great and doesn't use any oil. To celebrate the 600,000 miles, my family joined my wife and I, stopping on the spot, taking pictures and celebrating with Oreos and Coke.
All those don't come on anymore, but I do get intermittant SRS light that comes on for a few seconds, usually while accelerating. Car starts fine and can run A/C, etc on it without much problem. But to get rid of that SRS light that comes and goes....?
Hey all - I love my new car but.... There have been a few nagging rattles, but more importantly I always feel a slight bump in the gas pedal and throughout the front end, usually only when the car is cold or has been sitting for a while. It will usually not do it again during the rest of the drive, until it has been stopped for a while.
Thoughts?
When I first brought it in, they adjusted a rotor, but did not eliminate problem.
Comments
The RPM drops when the A/C kicks in and rises when it cycles off, so that could cause the car to accelerate slightly if the brake pedal isn't pressed.
I almost always keep my foot on the brake when stopped at traffic lights so that might be why I don't notice any lurch.
In any case, I don't think you have anything to be concerned about..................Richard
Then the problem started, car started moving and I could hear a noise coming from under the hood (constant highway noise when car goes over blocks of concrete). This periodic noise was only when the car went forward and NOT reverse.
After about half hour of driving, this sound lessened...but the real problem was BRAKING. When I brake, I can feel something pushing back on the brake pedal continuously and car is taking a long while to stop. As I press on the brake pedal, I do hear the loud periodic noise...
A month before I left I got the car serviced and the mechanic told me that there was 60% wear on the brakes. Can this be a brake problem? Or is this explained by the fact that the car was parked for a long time and some rust had settled in causing the loud noise and something bad happened as a result of this? It has been insanely hot over the last couple of weeks, temperatures touching 98 degrees... can this have added to be the cause of the problem? Is there something which I can check before going to the mechanic?
Car Gurus, please help
Ed
Everyone, I hope.
Could try a neutral shift while waiting at lights. Any change in RPM is going to be negotiated by the trans.... you claim to be overly-sensitive - are you sure this is a lurch as you say, or is it more of a nudge? Nudge would be normal.
Dennis
e-brakes are that - for emergencies. An exception would be parking a stick on an extreme hill... but unless it is San Francisco - a 1st gear park should be sufficient. If your car is rolling, then you have compression and leakage issues and the car needs to be in the shop.
Never use your e-brake for a month at a time and expect things not to rust up. If you were on halfway level ground, you would have been fine either in gear as a stick, or in park as an auto.
Get it towed to a brake shop before you do more damage. You are likely looking at rotor and caliper replacements already, as well as belts and possible clutch/trans work.
I took the car to the mechanic this morning - he saw the rotors on the front wheels and said that there was already rust built up. He also took the car out for a test ride and said that the car was in good shape except for the brakes and opined that it was good for a few months since the brakes were 60% worn. He didnt say a thing about e-brakes...and yes, he too observed that brake pedals pulsating when he tried to apply brake and explained that with constant use, chances were that it will go away.
With everything both of you have written, the car seems to be in some serious trouble.
Mechanic didnt think so. Now, I am really confused, kindly write what is the next best thing I can do before there is greater damage?
How can I check for a frozen or stuck e-brake? I have used the e-brake twice in the past (once in winter, feb and another in fall, oct) when I had taken off for 1 month vacations and nothing like that happened. But, this was the first time I took a vacation in spring/summer time frame, there were lot of rains/severe temperatures from what I hear, rust formation most certainly would have occured.
Please please write. Many thanks.
Dennis
Speed has nothing to do with it. Don't be foolish, just get it changed. While they are "in there" have them change the water pump and drive belts at the same time for no additional labor.
Then you can enjoy the next 105,000 miles.
If you send the car "back" to China, the authorities there are going to say "What
do you want us to do with a car mfg'ed by a Japanese company and was
manufactured in the US?"
I had front rotors+pads and rear pads replaced at 25K. At 15K I complained about loud squeaking and vibration and they turned the rotors.
At 40K now the probs are appearing again.
The problem is NOT your driving. My 97 corolla never had a brake problem in the 5 years I drove it before I got the Accord. If anything I drive slower and less hard on my accord than I did the corolla because i'm older than when I got the corolla!
Puddles are a fact of life, you cannot avoid them. As is road salt in the northern climes.
I've been told that they are making rotors too thin to cut costs, and that a groove along the outer edges of the rotor has made the problems worse by allowing more rust to build up.
OK. When the car was running, I put it in Neutral and pushed it backwards and forwards - car moved fine. I tried the same with the e-brake ON, the car wouldnt budge. This gives me enough confidence that e-brake is not stuck and working normally.
I observed one other thing...I hear the periodic/cyclic noise even when the car is in FORWARD motion...does this strike to you as something OTHER THAN a BRAKE problem. I dont hear this sound at high speeds, but at slow speeds, its hard to miss. What is puzzling me is that I could not hear this sound in the morning when the mechanic took it for a test ride. Pointers appreciated.
Thanks,
Thanks, for the help 4 sure.
Ed
I am considering purchasing a 2002 Accord SE with 85k miles for a great price from a reputable dealer. It seems to be in excellent condition mechanically and physically. The original owner has all of the paperwork for the oil changes and regular maintenance etc. My only concern is the higher mileage. Does anyone else out there have this same make and model with similar miles. If so, have you had any problems? Would you recommend this buy? Just curious......
I had a 98 EX 4 cyl. I had the belt and water pump changed at around 110,000 miles. I first called my local Honda shop and they gave me a price of almost $800. I then took it to my local mechanic and he did it for $400. New timing belt, water pump, tensioners, etc. As I recall, that Honda engine is considered "interference" - meaning if the timing belt breaks the valves will come in contact with the pistons - which is bad. If that happens, that will cost you a lot of money. So for peace of mind, have it changed along with the other items. Just shop around - I found the locals to be cheaper than the dealerships.
Hope this helps.
Did you ever resolve the cause of your intermittent electrical problem? My 98 Accord with 126K is doing the same thing.
I have some more to add to the initial observations, when I make a left turn, I hear the grinding noise, please note that I did not touch the brake pedal...even when the car was in regular forward motion, I am hearing this grinding noise...this morning, I didnt hear the same grinding noise when I applied the brakes and also I did the e-brake testing which you suggested yesterday. I am beginning to think that brakes are working just fine and its something else and it has to do with the wheels...Also, what I saw this morning was akin to being in an airplane...I know its tough to say anything...any pointers appreciated.
I am taking the car to another mechanic for a second opinion.
Thanks,
Ed
Larry
I just bought 2002 Honda Accord 4 cyc, AT. When I shift to R, I feel the car shakes a little bit. When I shift to D, it has no more shake. Is something wrong with engine mount or transmission or it is normal. I drive my daughter's Accord V6, 2005. It is very smooth, not shakes like my car. Please tell me what I can do. Should I take it back to the dealer I bought it to complaint?
Thanks.
Driving down I-696 yesterday in my 3 week old Accord one of those rocks from out of nowhere landed on my windshield and make a nice deep gouge in the glass... Not a circular chip but an actual 1/6" long gouge to right and a little below my line of site over the steering wheel... It's rather annoying and looks like it could spread if left intreated.
All of my searches on the internet for information keep leading to business "opportunities" rather than people who have actually repaired their windshields....
Just wondering if anyone has successfully had something like this repaired or repaired it themselves....
Dennis
We are all familiar with the ads that show a repair for the small bull's-eye type damage to a windshield. This can be successful if the surface of the glass is smooth and the damage consists of small sub-surface cracks. If you can put your fingernail into the surface, an acceptable repair is unlikely.
The best solution is to replace the windshield. This is not as dire as it sounds. It costs around $300 or less and can be done by a mobile repair man at your location. I saw a man performing this on a co-worker's car last week. Most insurance companies will cover the cost.
My State Farm insurance repaired an impact bullseye near the bottom of the glass by drilling to relieve pressure and filling with silicone. Never gave more trouble and cracking didn't spread downward since it was only 3 inches from bottom of glass. If the damage is in your line of sight as the driver, it's probably best to replace. If it's not in front of driver, I'd see what insurance agent and company suggest. The repair people may be able to do something creative with a filler and leveler -- if that gouge isn't removable.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Maybe it wasn't a rock that hit me yesterday... At first I thought and hoped it was a large bug because some small portion of whatever it was had stuck to the windshield... I hoped it was a bug so I hit the washers and whatever was left there washed off and left what looked like a dark stain like big remains... Looking at it while driving (not a good idea!) it looked more and more like a long'ish gouge/scratch... Not a star, half moon, or anything else that I saw in the pictures on the web. It was raining and I was late coming home late and angry so I just had to walk away from the car and not look at it until today.
I looked at this morning before coming to work when it was still a little dark out and it appeared to be a gouge. In the light of day it is now a pin prick sized hole and the gouge is actually a wide "crack" underneath the surface. Really hard to explain it... looks weird and I am not even positive that the pin sized hole goes through the cracking underneath the surface.
I just went to two automotive stores near to work (the first one had sold out of window repair kits) and bought a resin kit. Looks Like I have to drill out the pin sized hole a little bit in order to shoot the resin in it. Hmm... Hope I can hold my dremel tool steady for this one!
My girlfriend said her car has a chip in her windshield so maybe I should practice on her Ford first?
I'm curious to see if I can somehow smooth the resin to be smooth with the windshield or if it will look like a clear protrusion from the glass.
What really gets me though is the car is not even three weeks old and the window is chipped and 2 weeks ago someone hit my rear passenger door with what had to be their side review mirror and scratched the handle. Looked like someone was speeding through the parking lot and graised my car with their mirror. I was happier with my old car because I didn't care when these things happened!
Thank you.
Mrbill
Your car is three weeks old? Surely, you have comprehensive insurance that will pay to get that windshield repaired or replaced!
Why would you want to Mickey Mouse up a brand new car with a do it yourself repair job.
You asked us questions, and you were given good advise yet you seem determined to somehow fix this yourself?
Good Luck...I hope it works out for you.
Ever since then, when I turn off the car and take the keys out of the ignition the air conditioner will still stay on. Not every time, mind you, but occasionally. Leaving it alone for a couple of minutes, then moving the car and shutting it off again seems to fix the problem, but just repeatedly starting and shutting down the car when the problem first manifests doesn't. I'm not noticing a correlation between when the problem happens and other factors (e.g. length of time driven, number of miles driven, etc.)
In case any of this is relevant: It's a '94 Honda Accord, 114,000 miles, and was just fully serviced (the 90,000 tuneup, timing belts replaced) earlier this week. Taking it to the shop where the airconditioning unit was fixed isn't an option; it's in Tampa and I'm writing this from Arizona.
Last week I turned over 600,000 miles on my 1987 Honda Accord. The internal parts of the engine have never been touched. It runs great and doesn't use any oil. To celebrate the 600,000 miles, my family joined my wife and I, stopping on the spot, taking pictures and celebrating with Oreos and Coke.
http://www.hondabeat.com/highmiles.php?intStart=200
Thoughts?
When I first brought it in, they adjusted a rotor, but did not eliminate problem.
Thanks Pastfan