Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

dontey · June 2005

Bought a 2005 EX Accord AT, V-6. Does this car still have front-wheel drive? I live where we get lot of snow, and I just assumed traction -control is part of the front-wheel drive system, is it? Thanks in advance.

dwynne · June 2005

Two different things - front wheel drive and traction control.

All Accords are FWD and all V-6 Accords have traction control, it is not available on the I4 Accords for 2005.

With lots of snow I HIGHLY recommend getting a "winter tire package" from the TireRack.com . Four spare wheel with 4 snow tires then just change them over each year (no re-mounting and balancing fees). Four grippy snow tires make a WORLD of difference VS the all season tires that come on the car.

Dennis

platinum · June 2005

600,000 miles!?!?!?

chucko3 · June 2005

I feel that same slight thump on the pedal with my 03EXV6 when I turn the steering wheel after pulling out of parking in the morning some time. I wouldn't worry about it.

lastwraith · June 2005

Actually, that's not even the most impressive story. I could only find a link on vtec.net, but there is another guy with 1 million miles on his Accord and the engine has never been replaced from what I remember. I recall reading that a reporter for a magazine test drove it and was going to report the experience, assuming that it would be different than an accord of the same vintage with a more normal amount of miles. In his test drive write-up though, he said it felt just like any other accord and that he was thoroughly surprised. Wish I could find the article though.... Here is the vtec link at least.

http://www.vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=53478

xtonyfx · June 2005

99' accord ex 4cycl. When car is cold and just started up and switching gears it seems to be taking a long time to engage and when it does feel a slight surge. Seems it's having problems switching gears. Once car is warm 5-10 minutes it runs fine. Any suggestions

lastwraith · June 2005

Not sure how helpful this will be but...."The transmission fluid temperature sensor may be faulty. This sensor adjusts the accumulator pressure which in turn adjusts the smoothness of the clutch engagement. Cold auto repair fluid is thicker and flows slower, while hot fluid flows faster. The accumulator therefore has to adjust the amount of fluid flow accordingly. Therefore if the sensor is faulty, it might report that the fluid is cold when it is actually hot" or vice versa.

I would change the fluid itself and check any related sensors first just to be sure. However, to change the fluid near-totally you would either have to do the (partial change + short drive) x 3 method or do a complete flush/fill.

Also, does the car itself take that long to warm up, 5-10 mins for it to be above the "C" mark? Or is it only the tranny that takes that long to start working more normally?

good luck

cutmeister · June 2005

I get the same thumb in the morning and after the car parks for a good 6-8 hours or so.
What do you think is it??

xtonyfx · June 2005

Thanks, will be taking it in for svc soon so will have them do the flush and check the sensors. As far as warming up, its the tranny that takes that long to act normal.

klrs2038 · June 2005

This morning my car started to chug a bit when i was stopped (actually didn't think it was my car thought it was vibrations from nearby construction) then less than a mile later it died as I stopped to merge. I put it into park and restarted it and it went. Any idea what it was? Should I get it checked out? Does it matter that I just filled up with a full tank of gas yesterday? I'm a little nervous and could use some advice

klrs2038 · June 2005

Oh and no lights on the indicator panel came on and stayed on.

srobak · June 2005

cold trans issue (and numerous other similar comments made the past few weeks)> People - if your car has been sitting for several hours or overnight, please take the time to start the car and let it run a minute or two. If you do not have the time and decide to start it cold and roll, then expect some feedback from the car. Any car. Cold trans, high idle, slightly un-responsive gas pedal, hard shifts, you name it... let the car warm up a minute or two... let the idle come down and go easy on the driving for a couple minutes until the trans gets circulating. Remember - when you start the car and the temp gauge is all the way to the left (cold), it is not going to run like it does when it is in the middle (warm&normal).

Chugging> perhaps some bad gas? Put a couple cans of HEET in the tank asap - this will absorb any moisture that may be in there. If it does it again within the next tank or two, then perhaps get it looked at, otherwise it may be nothing. I had a Lincoln that would idle rough about once a month until I shut it off and restarted it. 3 different mechanics could never figure out why.

chucko3 · June 2005

I think it's the sound of the ABS engaging.
How about try this and let us know if you still hear the thumb: slowly and firmly
pump the brake pedal a few times before you put the car into R or D in the
morning.
Lately I stopped pumping the brakes before driving out and I heard the noise.
I will try it again the next time I drive mine (next Friday). Gotta piling up mileages on my 89. Aiming for 210K.

blackcar0000 · June 2005

Sounds like you're hearing the floating disc engage. This is a very common sound/feeling when a car moves forward for the first time after being started if it has floating front discs. No problem to be worried about.

jmaverickg · June 2005

I had an O-Ring go bad on my A/C Condenser and I still had the old Freon in there so I just changed the O-Ring and did a retro kit for the new stuff and the problem has began.

It blows cool and will eventually get cold on a long drive but will not blow cold just driving around town. After changing the O-Ring I paid the place next door to my job to pull a vaccuum on it and they said it pulled and held a vaccuum fine. So I put on the retro fit couplers and started it up to add freon. The tag on the car shows it holds 30oz of freon but I was only able to put in 15oz (of oil and freon, a premix can). And the guage now shows it to be overcharged a bit.

But it does blow pretty cool, and gets cold on a long 10 mile or longer drive.

Any ideas? Please help because it's darn hot and I'm broke of course!

1000hours · June 2005

Well, I did take it to a professional after all. It was easier than I thought... Monday morning I come into work, jump onto my insurance companies website just to see what information I could find on coverage... I fill out a form online and submit and about 30 minutes later I get a call from someone and I am setting up a time for them to come out to my job and fix the windshield...

Tuesday they are supposed to call me when they arrive and no one calls me all day long so I am walking out to my car and I see a piece of paper on the windshield from the glass repair company stating that the work has been completed, ect ect.

I was not expecting a flawless fix at all. I expected to see some weird little light bending through the clear resin patch.... What I have now looks like they filled the hole with Elmers glue or some semi-transparent white paint... Not good. Sure the hole is gone and it's got a hard material in it now... But I've got what looks like perpetual dirt on the windshield now (looks like a big bird dropping kind of) and it's in that annoying position where it's always in the corner of my eye when I am driving.

Would love to pay the $250 to get a new windshield and it's probably worth it just to stop being bothered by this "dirt" looking thing on my windshield... But then there's the issues of what if they both up the replacement?

I miss my old Civic... It could have been hit by a boulder and I would not have cared about it so long as it drove.

srobak · June 2005

I would get back on the phone with the insurance company and complain about the work. Offer to send pictures. They should be able to up the importance a bit and get things done right... since the company has now ruined the windshield - perhaps they will even get someone else to replace it and charge it back to the company that screwed it up.

dwynne · June 2005

Well, I did take it to a professional after all.

I think you need quotes around "professional" after they way they fixed it. As was mentioned I would call the insurance company and complain.

Dennis

imidazol97 · June 2005

Call the insurance company. They may have you come to a drive through claims center so they can inspect the windshield after the work was done. I would expect that they would decide it's in the area of driver's usual view and noticeable and they will replace the windshield or they'll decide it's transparent enough and you're still noticing it because you know it's there. You probably will not notice it in 3 months if the repair is clear enough.

I can't judge because I haven't seen it, but I do know with rattles, noises, problems, I keep noticing them when I wouldn't normally note them once they've been a problem.

Good luck. Your insurance company will probably treat you right. I had a windshield replace and the company compressed the foam on the dashboard and left an indention. A year later my insurance company offered to replace the pad.

jjs2204 · June 2005

Recently, when I start the car in the morning, my automatic transmission slips as I icrease the speed. Once going its much better( ie 5 or 10 min), but does not feel right. I have scheduled an appointment with Honda. Questions. Has anyone had a problem similar to this? what was cause or outcome. Finally, I do not have an extended warranty, but since the car is 5 years old, would it be under any warranty? thx.

bill59 · June 2005

Amazing, but the cable to the fuel filler door on my 2003 Accord V6 seems to have broken. No way to add fuel. 39,000 miles so the warranty has expired. $500. to repair. Has anyone heard of such a thing? And what do you do when the filler door won't open and you can't add fuel? Oh, and the cable controlling the trunk seems to have gone, too.

mrbill1957 · June 2005

$500 to replace the cable, OUCH!!!

Did you try looking behind the trunk liner to see if you can release the filler door from there?

GOOD LUCK

alg2b · June 2005

Any solution to your stalling problem?

srobak · June 2005

$5 says the release handle broke next to the seat. Pull it apart and see what it looks like inside.

platinum · June 2005

I have a used 2001 Honda with 45k miles I'm not sure what type of fuel was used before so I sarted with regular but didnt feel I was gettin the V6 powern so a friend recommended switching to a higher octane fuel so I switched from 87 octane(regular) to 92(V plus) I notice a slight difference after a few tanks but not much so I'm going to switch back and save $$$. Someone said its not good to go back and fourth is this true???
(also does anyone use fuel injector gas treatment?is it worth putting in every other fuel up or a waste of money?)

lastwraith · June 2005

The car will adjust the timing automatically via the computer for the type of fuel used if need be, you don't have to worry that you are doing damage to it or anything. Generally it is a good idea to stick with one brand in an effort to keep the computer from making too many adjustments, but this is just a suggestion by some. You should be more worried about getting a bad tank of gas or running an octane below what is specified for your vehicle. Otherwise, enjoy the new ("preowned") car.

Your nick reminded me, older Hondas (especially accords) used to not run as well with Bosch sparkplugs (especially the platinums) installed. This was doubly true for the 90-93 accords. Changing out the plugs or at least pulling them out to check might not be a bad idea in any case. Perhaps your missing performance lies somewhere in the tune-up items section.

bill59 · June 2005

Thanks for your note. The Honda dealer says the cable broke and has to be replaced which means routing it through the car. Hence the $500. Sounds outrageous to me. How/why does a cable break? Makes little sense to me. Your suggestion is much more likely...but it is now in the dealer's hands. I have asked for the replaced parts.

bill59 · June 2005

Thanks for your suggestion. My dealer said it is a broken cable. I checked the book for any alternatives. They hae them for the moonroof but not the filler door. The dealer says its a broken cable, which doesn't make sense to me. How does a cable break? Unfortunately it's out of warranty so $500 it is. I wonder if anything like this has happend to anyone else.

whitecloud1 · June 2005

A possible alternative to try is to take a key or screwdriver, after you've pushed
down on the lever in the car, and try to pry the door open. It should not be hard to open as I doubt the cable is actually broken. I've had to do this for years with my Mazda Protege. Then just close the door back 'til next time. You might want to have a cloth to use with the key/screwdriver seeing as your car is near new and I know you don't want to damage the paint.

altair4 · June 2005

You wrote:
It should not be hard to open as I doubt the cable is actually broken. I've had to do this for years with my Mazda Protege.

Hah! I had the same problem with the same car ('92 Protege)! What I actually did was use a piece a string with a loop on it to pull up on the gas filler release lever while simultaneously pushing on the hinged edge of the filler door so it would open. It looked utterly stupid, but it worked and I wasn't going to sink any money into a car with 150K on the odometer.

cutmeister · June 2005

I pumped the break pedal a couple of times before shifting but that did not change it - I don't think it's the ABS because I can hear the ABS engaging earlier even before I start driving.
The sound come up after I turn (from my drive way to the street) while I'm steering back - almost between the 1st and 2nd gear.
Tomorrow I'll try to drive on 1st gear and shift manually to D or 2nd and see if it happens again.

chucko3 · June 2005

<<<The sound come up after I turn (from my drive way to the street) while I'm steering back>>>

and gently step on the gas pedal. Then one can feel a slight thump at the gas pedal. It doesn't happen all the time though.
I don't know what it is, but it doesn't affect the handling of the car. So I wouldn't
worry about it.

whitecloud1 · June 2005

A Brother N Arms,, .I have a '90 Protege. Reliable as heck and saved me money. Only the exhaust system sucked. Didn't see much point in worrying about the fuel door though. Your solution was probably better than mine, since no one was convinced that I had a lock on the gas fill door.

chucko3 · June 2005

It could be the cable came loose at the opener near the seat or at the other end, fuel lid lock.

nnbb · June 2005

My car suddenly couldn't ignite. No clicking, no start, nothing. Engine is not even turning. The battery is supposed to be fine. Thanks a lot!

mrbill1957 · June 2005

I've been reading the postings on the front end thump, and I'm puzzled about something.

It's my understanding that the V6 Accords use a "drive by wire" for the gas pedal. With that in mind, I'm puzzled why you feel anything in the pedal. I would think that any vibration from the engine would be totally isolated in the pedal, since they are not cable connected.

I have a 04 4 cyl Accord, and I also hear a noise a few seconds after the car is started. I'm not sure what it is yet, but I'm thinking it's the A/C clutch kicking in, will have to do some playing around and see if starting the car with the climate control in the manual mode makes a difference.

Mrbill

xtonyfx · June 2005

have similar problem on 99' ex. Took it in and needs a new tranny. Seals are leaking but also said that the shaft was loose and was the real problem. Seems to be alot of tranny problems from reading past posts. One post I read said Honda was extending warranty on 2000-1 accords to 100k or 7 yrs. Here's a link to the post if it works. It was in the Transmision Traumas forum. Do a search on accord.
http://home.earthlink.net/~jkessel55/Honda Transmissions.htm

nw1997 · June 2005

The noise comes and goes. It is definitely the transmission. It however does not seem to be getting worse, but I only have approx 10K miles on the vehicle. The trans recall was performed at 3700 miles, but made no difference in regards to the noise. The vehicle shifts and drives the same, but who knows what the future may bring. Most of the time it is parked in the garage. I just had one of the door lock (actuator) replaced by a different dealer from where we originally purchased the car from. The lock would not go down, but it did open the door. Overall our Accord has been OK, but for a 30K vehicle it could of been better. Good Luck

eshorter · June 2005

I have an '03 Accord, and your problems are exactly the same as mine!

As for the creaking noise from the window, mine is on the front passenger side, but still the same as you describe. In fact, I have my car at the dealer today and they said they lubricated the rubber gasket that goes around the window because it appeared to be a little dry. So we'll see if that solves the problem.

I've had my car in to the dealer at least 3 times for the whistling noise, and they cannot diagnose the problem (including today). They hear it, but cannot find the source. This is driving me crazy. I have to keep the radio or CD player turned up high to avoid hearing the whining/whistling sound. It started out when I drove between 60-70 MPH; now I hear it between 40-60 MPH.

I want to know if anyone else is having this problem too. Maybe we should contact Honda headquarters about this?

leahlane · June 2005

Hi - anyone have an idea what happened here . . .

I was driving home last night and my speedo quit working. Two minutes later the yellow/orange check engine light came on. I pulled over and checked the oil and it was fine. It didn't start running bad or anything. Today the speedo still doesn't work and the check engine light came on after about 8 minutes of driving the car.

Any clue what is "wrong"?

Thanks! Leah

irnmdn · June 2005

"maint rqr'd" light came on during a highway trip, stays lit since then. The dealer says it might be time for routine service. Burt isn't blinking light during startup indication for oil change?

blane · June 2005

My 2004 EX V6 Coupe has recently started exhibiting a very slight whistling noise that I only notice while the driver's window is open and the car is moving below about 30 mph. I've isolated it to a gap in the outside mirror housing.

Could this be your problem too?

drleebee · June 2005

I have an 05 EXL Sedan and also hear that whistling noise. My wife thinks I'm crazy because she can't hear it at all. But I do and it really bugs me. It reminds me of the high pitched whistle/hum electronic equipment sometimes emits.

It sounds like it's coming from the sunroof, but it's definitely associated with the accelerator, so I suspect it's just the car's acoustics that are making it sound like it's coming from the sunroof. I can still hear it when I close the sliding sunscreen, but it's definitely quieter. Occasionally, I can hear it even if the sunroof is wide open.

I took it to my dealer this week, but they couldn't do anything. I'm not sure they ever actually heard the sound. Of course, when I went for a drive with the technician, it didn't make the sound!

lastwraith · June 2005

Could be a few things, and anyone on here would just be guessing. Bad gauge cluster, bad VSS (vehicle speed sensor), etc. Take that puppy to AutoZone or another name brand place and have them read out any error codes gratis!

good luck

derekr · June 2005

i am replacing my balancer shaft seal and timing and balancer belts.i am using a kit from napa with tensioners.i read about the adjustment here ,the book i have is not descriptive enough for me ,any way i thought they were to loose until i adjusted them as i read here, the balancer belt seems a little loose. when i turn the engine over the timing belt moves to the front of the cam gear is this normal?or will it correct its self ? thankyou ,Derek R.

bpsooner · June 2005

I am shipping my 2005 Accord LX to Europe (Hungary) to use for a few months. The minimum octane requirement for the Accord in the USA is 86, but the European gasoline companies use a different rating system. Can anyone tell me the Octane rating I use here to insure that I'm getting minimum 86 on the USA scale. Thanks.

altair4 · June 2005

Found this on the web, dunno how accurate it is:

In Europe, RON is most commonly used to specify octane rating. This is the source of some confusion among owners of some European cars. Fuel with 91 RON in Europe is roughly equivalent to 87 AKI and fuel with 95 RON is roughly 91 AKI. So a car sold in the US and requiring 91 AKI would be specified as requiring 95 RON if it were sold in Europe.

dwynne · June 2005

Have you had the oil changed regularly? At a Honda dealer?

Sounds like either it has been a bunch of miles since the last change and/or the person who did the change didn't reset the "service monitor". Look in the owner's manual, but I think on your car this would come on every 7,500 miles if not reset. On my 2001 S2000 the light just comes on and stays on once it has been tripped - if I recall correctly.

Dennis

baylorbears · June 2005

I have a 2000 Accord V6 with a little over 94K miles on it. It died on me 2 days ago. Anyway, I was told to get a new alternator. So I did it, but the car started making noises after having the alternator replaced.

Do you have any ideas what causes that LOUD and irritating noise? What am I supposed to do??? Replacing more stuff?? Any wisdom??

Thanks!

steveh · June 2005

I have a 2000 Accord Coupe EXV6 with almost 76,000 miles. Late last week, I started hearing a "whine" sound (the pitch varies along with the sound of the engine). It's very noticeable while idling, and it gets harder to hear on the highway when the RPM is usually above 2,000 (and there is more road noise to drown it out).

Any ideas as to what this could be? The car still runs fine but I'm not taking any chances.

Steve

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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