Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

dakro · June 2005

My driver's side seat belt gets saturated down in the spool area whenever I run my 2005 Honda Accord LX through a car wash. I have determined that my car wash has a "bottom blaster" spray that hits the driver's side as it moves down the car wash track, but I don't see why water should be getting up into the seat belt spooling area from underneath. I've all but ruled out that it coming from somewhere above such as the sunroof area or roof seam area. Could this be a sealing problem around the sunroof drain tube as it exits down below the car or something similar? Has anyone seen this or is anyone familiar with how this can happen?

srobak · June 2005

Check for missing rubber grommets in the underside around the seatbelt spool. High pressure washers can blow them out, or the factory could have omitted it by mistake. Otherwise - check the top of the door seals and the moonroof.

dakro · June 2005

I checked and found that there appear to be two holes in the bottom frame in similar locations on each side of the car near where the spool would be (spool would be directly above them) In each case, the hole closest to the front of the car is open and the other has a gromet. It looks like the undercoating or sealer spray was put on without either of these holes ever having had a plug in them. They are approx. 1/2' diameter holes. Could this be the problem that both were left out?

mrbill1957 · June 2005

LOUD and irritating noise? Ya got to give us more information. Could be anything from the replaced alternator, to something thats driven off the common belt. Could also be something totally unrealated.

drew7 · June 2005

Hi guys, I hope this is ok to post in this discussion. I have a 2003 Accord LX, automatic. I have 66k miles on it, and remembered that years ago, on my CRX, the timing belt broke on me, and that I was supposed to change it every 65k miles or so.
I really don't know that much about cars, but all cars need their timing belts replaced, right? Also, when should I get mine replaced? Immediately?

Anyway, sorry to sound dumb, as I only know very basic info, and thanks for your input!

pbchoclovr · June 2005

Was washing/waxing my 2004 Accord yesterday, when I noticed two spots of rust on the roof over the pillars between each door. :sick: Car is only 6 months old! :mad: Immediately took it to the local Honda dealer and luckily the corporate service rep was in the shop. Of course he tried to insinuate that I'd had some type of carrier on the roof to cause this... hadn't... Then wanted to know why I didn't see the paint problems when I took delivery. Took delivery at twilight... Then wanted to know why I hadn't taken the car to the dealer where I bought it.... It's farther away....In the end after meticulously searching the car's paint and finding at least one other bubble (which hasn't popped) and going on about what a grey area this was, the rep authorized the dealer to fix the spots under warranty and supply me with a loaner while it's in the shop. All this is to take place after the holiday... we'll see how it goes....This my fourth Honda and the first time I've had paint problems.

hondalova · June 2005

Probably the ABS self check - you really feel it and it only happens once when the car is cold or just started up.

temj12 · June 2005

I have the high pitch whistling noise which appears to be in the gearing or the transmission. I have an 05 Accord Coupe 4 cylinder MT. I noticed it immediately out of the dealer when I bought the car. I hear it on the highway. I drove the car from Nashville, Tennessee to Little Rock, Arkansas yesterday and I noticed it. I have the satellite radio and have it on so much that I don't hear it. However, when I turn off the radio I hear it.

temj12 · June 2005

Not all cars have to have their timing belt changed because many cars have timing chains. I have an 05 EX-L 4 cylinder Accord and it has a timing chain. It will not have to be changed. My son has an 05 Civic and it has the belt and will have to be changed. Not a dumb question at all; just a questions like any question the rest of us ask.

sleeper92 · June 2005

:mad: I made and apt @8am to have my car checked out for a ticking noise in the engine. they said they would call me at 12 or 1 with an update. No call. I call them at 3. they dont have an answer(basically they haven't done a thing to the car) and they will call me back. I tell them to call MY CELL NOT MY HOUSE what do they do, call my house and leave a message with my sons baby sitter who doesn't know a thing about cars. she asks them to call my cell and he says he cant because he is leaving soon. Oh and they dont work on the weekend so i have to wait till monday. with a bunch of @sses should i be mad? what should i do?

Does anyone know what a cam follower is? i guess its broke in half and something about a needle bearing as well.

sleeper92 · June 2005

its an accord coupe v6 6spd

cxvargas · June 2005

I'm stationed in Europe and I use TotalFina 95 octane for my 2003 4 cylinder Accord LX. No problems so far.

germany · June 2005

Been living here for a while. First you will rarely find lower than 86 octane. But follow the commonsense law and you'll be o.k. Bleifrei is the basic (like our regular), super bleifrei is midrange and super plus or whatever that gas station costs is the max. Bottom line, unless your here with the military your gonna end up paying so much for gas you'll consider using water.

iandrei · June 2005

Hi.
everything looks good so far. What should I pay attention to, any Accord specific problems?

irnmdn · June 2005

Press the trip reset button and start the engine, the light goes away.

viet · June 2005

Hi Irnmdn:

You are wrong. It should be:

- Older model Honda: Insert key to hole to reset it.

- Newer model Honda: (1) Turn on ignition key (but do not start engine), (2) Press and hold trip odometer reset handle 1 minute or more until "Mtn. Req." light goes off.

jason618 · June 2005

I was sitting at the beach tonight. got back into my car after 30 or so minutes and started it. It made a humming noise when it runs now unlike ever before. Also once it goes through its startup process it then says all doors are ajar, the batt light is on, the brake light is on, the brake lamp light is on as well. These lights wont go away. I have several accessories hard wired to the battery but I dont think their causing a problem?? I have a motorola CDM1250 2way UHF radio wired up that was on while the car was off. I have a LED double blue emergency light wired in front and a traffic backer wried as well as other hardwired things like my XM radio reciever. I often leave the radio on when the vehicle is not on but dont transmit so its not really drawing a lot of power.

Anyone have any ideas whats wrong with the car and why its doing this? I was able to drive it home fine. :confuse:

lalipop87 · June 2005

I'm also having a similar problem on my 2005 Honda Accord LX. I hear a loud screeching noise from the front right wheel. The only difference is that my car is only 3 months old with 700 miles on it. Could the brake pads possibly need replacing already? I do drive in the city but only 3 times a week. Do you know if the warrenty covers all the costs including the labor charge if something does need to be replaced?

viet · June 2005

You take it to the nearest Honda dealer to have it checked and fixed at no charge. Your car is under 3 years or 36,000 miles warranty, whichever comes first.

idunno · June 2005

I give up!! Where can I find the speed sensor on the automatic transmission of my 94 Accord?? And please - treat me like an idiot. I feel pretty stupid. Thanks

lastwraith · June 2005

Why don't you stop by at AutoZone or Pep Boys or wherever and have them do a quick check of the charging system....as it is almost always free (in the hopes of making a sale).

Otherwise of course, you could have a trustworthy mechanic check it over real quick.

good luck, and let us know what happens

lastwraith · June 2005

There is almost no way your pads could need replacing yet. Unless you drive with the brakes constantly on somehow or are a total MANIAC on the road. Even then.....700 miles?!?! As was suggested, since the car is so new it would be easiest to have the dealer see what is wrong. Though you can check yourself to make sure something stupid is not wrong (something stuck in the wheel or just something in general that is obviously wrong). Anything else I would leave to the dealer to "deal" with. If there is something wrong with the wheel (wheel bearing, etc) then that would be covered. Though really, at 700 miles and 3 months, as long as it's not something like a branch stuck in there it should be covered.

let us know

robbinsc · June 2005

I was leaving an apartment complex and I "bottomed out". As I drove down the street, the front-end seemed to rattle a bit. I was concerned, and as I continued to drive, the rattle continued along bumps. At the next stop light, I heard a loud whine (akin to a winch turning, or something), and the rattling quit soon after. I was able to drive for a few hours with no other problems. The rattling has disappeared, and there are no other issues.

My questions are -

1.) What was it that rattled?
2.) Should I get my car checked out, if after all that, there seem to be no problems?

The car (as noted) is a 1994 Accord LX with 103000 miles on it. Thanks ot anyone who can answer.

-Chris

chucko3 · June 2005

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Acco- rd&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=ENGINE+WIRE+HARNESS-CLAMP

gatrhumpy · June 2005

Does anyone know or have instructions how to replace the outside side mirror covers on a 2004 Honda Accord EX V6? How do take off the painted portion of the mirror cover without damaging the black plastic?

capthoward · June 2005

My 2001 Accord just started sputtering, spitting, (felt like it wasn't getting gas when given accceleration. It seemed to idle OK, but when given acceleration, it missed and choked. Then I noticed smoke coming out of the exhaust at the rear of the car. I pulled it back in the driveway and now it won't start. Doesn't even try to start. It won't do anything when I turn the key. After sitting for a day, now when I turn the key, I get a rapid clicking, but no engine turn. I'm guessing/hoping for a bad battery but that won't answer my sputtering/missing problem when given accelaration. Anybody know?

leahlane · June 2005

Thanks! I'll try that soon.

Leah

adjoa75 · June 2005

Hello,

I have a 2001 Accord, it has 49,000 miles on it. I had my 45k mi maintenance done last month. Now my check engine light is on. It came on last month, but went away on its on. I was told it was probably the gas cap not being tightened.

It is back on now, it stayed on for 2 days went off and now has been on for about 3 days. Now the CEL is back on, I went to the AutoZone near my house, and they gave me a code of P1259. The guy looked it up and he mentioned something about the "Kill switch, this happens when you get in an accident, the car is suppose to shutdown." I have not been in an accident and I have gotten the car maintenanced on schedule.

If anyone has an knowledge of the code or of how serious it is I would appreciate it.
I know I am going to have to pay $100 for the dealer just to "diagnose" it.

idunno · June 2005

Thanks for the link to the schematic. It does indeed show the speed sensor, but it doesn't clearly show where it is located on the engine/transmission. Still looking for it.

blane · June 2005

Thanks to chucko3's post #11123, here's an assembly drawing of the outside mirror. The "cover" to which you refer is called a "Housing Cap", see Items 002 (Right side) and 007 (Left side) in various colors.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Acco- - - rd&catcgry2=2004&catcgry3=2DR+EX+V6+NAVI&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=MIRROR

Sorry, I cant tell you how to take it off. Mine has been creating a slight wind whistle lately so, if you don't mind being a guinea pig, I'd be interested in how you remove yours. It appears to be just a snap-on component. Mine's quite flexible.

mitchflorida · June 2005

The backlight on the digital temperature readout (below the clock) needs to be replaced. Is there an easy way to do this? The Dealer want $50 to replace the $6 bulb . .

chucko3 · June 2005

Check the left & right springs to see any broken coil(s).

korvsjap · June 2005

Hey thanks for replying.

It's not a lurch, but the car feels like it lurches. Even a nudge seems weird. I've driven several 4 cylinder cars over the years and have never experienced this. I have to literally step on the brake pedal and even when i do, it nudges/lurches a bit.

i was hoping there would be other owners who have the same "problem" so that i can feel rest assured that this is a Honda problem.

btab1 · June 2005

i started my '91 Accord 2 door LX today, and as i put it from reverse into 1st, it shut off. I had the clutch in all the way, and everything was fine. It just shut off. So i stopped, and pressed the clutch in, and turned the key, it turned ovr about once, and then didnt turn over anymore, but the battery light stayed on. So i tried it again, and it turned over once, then the check oil light came on, adn then went off but the check battery light came on. So i tried starting it over and over for about 5 min, then i stopped. So i then took the key out, waited about a 30 seconds and tried again. This time it caught and turned on, but it started rattling and the RPM's were going up to about 2 or so, then it kinda revved up and then stalled out. So then i tried agian and it caught and ran fine all the way home.
Same things happend about 2 weeks ago. I was going down the road, and it shut off completly. But this time, it wouldn't start at all, so it sat tehre for a day and a half until we towed it.
Also in the past, it just has not started at all. I'll sit there, clutch all the way down, key turned in and it just sits turning over, and nothing works, but then i would go back about anywhere from 20 minuetes to an hour later and it would catch and start right up.
Since buying the car 2 years ago, ive had a new clutch put in, new distributor, new rotor (and a lot more done to it). Ive taken it to the local Honda dealership, and 2 local garages that specialize in foreign cars, and they can't diagnose the problem.

I am posting this wondering if anyone else has had any of these problems, and if you have, how have you fixed them?

jason618 · June 2005

I did a test my friend told me how to do. I disconected the battery while it was running and sure enough the car couldnt handle running the basic electrical compononents. When i would tap the gas the guages shut down and reset. and when I turned the AC on the car died.

I know thats probably not the proper test but it seemd to tell me the problem. While i was driving this morning I really slamed on the gas and when the RPMS got up high before shifting the lights on the dash turned off(the warning lights that were on before) however the wining noise got to be more high pitch and noticable. Maybe the alternator put out enough juice to reset the computer?? Either way, I took it into honda to have it replaced. If it ends up being something else I will keep you guys posted.

biker4 · June 2005

You will find that in most of Europe west of where you are going that the only choice will be 95 and 98 (or just recently 100 from Shell) RON. You need not worry - even the lowest 95 RON gas is more than the Accord needs. Been running my LX for 4 years on the 95 stuff from most Western European countries - runs great.

That's another reason gas is more expensive in Europe - they have no low octane gas like 87.

temj12 · June 2005

The clicking is a bad battery.

robbinsc · June 2005

Thanks for the tip - both springs feel fine, and I can't see any broken coils. Nothing hangs down, and (from what I can tell) I can't see anything wrong with it. I've driven it around part of today, and again have experienced no problems (all in-city driving) Should I give my Honda a clean bill of health?

user777 · June 2005

when you "bottomed out", any number of things might have happened...

you might have lost something in the way of the plastic shielding that protects the front bottom portion of the engine (forgot what it's called) from road debris, or maybe one of your wheels made contact with a wheel well liner it deformed, rattled for a while then popped back into place.

it's possible you made contact with the cat convertor, muffler and exhaust piping -momentarily dislodged the assembly so it wasn't hanging down on it's hangers properly, making contact with the body, and eventually it popped back into place.

who knows? i doubt anyone can tell you with certainty...this is what happened... nor, ...no worries... without being able to look at the vehicle.

why not go to an independant specializing in honda repairs and have them put it on a lift to visually check it out? they'll probably do that for free.

adjoa75 · June 2005

Does anyone know what this means:

P1259: Immobilizer to PCM signal error problem

That is the code and the error that I got from Autozone when they checked the Check Engine Light.

Thanks!

capthoward · June 2005

Yeah, that took care of the starting problem, thanks.

capthoward · June 2005

After a few phone calls, it seems there are many, many cars in our locale with the same problems! That's right, bad gas! Although the problem is not really bad gas. A good mechanic friend of mine explained to me a couple of years ago that rarely do you get bad gas. The real problem is that the tanker driver hooked up his diesel hose to the gasoline fill tank and therein lies the problem. Just thought I'd let you know.

cdpzero · June 2005

I'm hoping for some help. I have a '95 Accord. Recently, my brake pedal is going soft and sinking to the floor during various times. I thought maybe there was a vaccum leak because it didn't seem to do it when rpms were up, but recently that's not true, it happens indiscriminately. I took it to a mechanic and the master cylinder seems ok (nothing leaking) and there wasn't a vaccum leak, but it is still happening and more often. I've had other Hondas and I know the brake will give a little, but not to the floor. I still am stopping but not nearly as quickly. Any ideas?

hpux735 · June 2005

Are you sure that code 8 = PGM-CARB?

I have a 90 accord and the helm manual for it and code 8 = TDC Position Sensor.

Good luck...

blane · June 2005

adjoa75:

Re P1259, try here:

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2005/techtips.cfm

From an all-acura website:

"For those of us who can never go fast enough, uttering the words my VTEC isnt working is one of the most depressing things to say. This problem is usually rears its ugly head by sending an error code (P1259) to your ECU. A few common problems people run into are: insufficient oiling, VTEC pressure switch or solenoid malfunction.

If you ever receive this error, dont immediately freak out. Its common for older engines to burn/loss oil (especially the ones which have been abused!). Given enough time you engine will lose so much oil that it doesnt have sufficient oil pressure to activate VTEC. When this happens, as you could imagine, VTEC stops working and your check engine light will come on. To remedy this problem, simply check your oil level and refill it to full and then reset your ECU codes and youre good to go."

You should also Google for "P1259". There are lots of links. An even better solution would be to consult with the Service Adviser at your nearest Honda dealer.

lastwraith · June 2005

That's definitely not the preferred test, but at least you ID'ed the problem. Since the battery is acting as a buffer between your car's electronics and your alternator, you usually don't want it disconnected. Especially if you are worried your alternator is not functioning properly since faulty output from it could wreak havoc with your car's electrical system. Next time, a multimeter could be used to test the output from the alternator. That's usually easier, not to mention safer.

keep us posted if possible

skippyheart · June 2005

there is a relay on the older hondas that sometimes goes bad. it usually prevents the car from starting when the car is hot.

skippyheart · June 2005

there is a relay that goes bad on older hondas. it usually prevents the car from starting when it is hot.

skippyheart · June 2005

when you apply pressure to the brake pedal and it gradually goes down, it's usually the master cyclinder. sometimes you will not see fluid leaking. also air in the brake system can cause a spongy brake pedal.

adjoa75 · June 2005

Thanks a lot!

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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