when you apply pressure to the brake pedal and it gradually goes down , it's usually the master cylinder. sometimes you can't see the leak. the fluid is simply slipping past the rubber cups. also air in the brake system can cause a spongy pedal.
A master cylinder can leak outside (real obvious cause fluid will be low) or inside - both leaks cause a slowly sinking pedal. Sounds like you have a master cylinder leaking on the inside. Air in the brake lines might make the pedal spongy but probably not sink the pedal to the floor.
I got to admit I'm fairly picky. And, I considering what I test drove to pick a car out I realized they all have at least some problems. But these problems kind of annoy me. 2005 Accord VP 4cyl auto trans.
1. Very sensitive brakes. Hard to get used to. I thought they would break in some, but they have actually gotten more sensitive. Dealer tells me they get a lot of complaints on this but it is normal. 2. Hesitation when slowing down from a higher gear (3, 4 or 5) to to 5-10 mph, then stepping on the gas there is a considerable hesitation while the transmission figures out what to do. It's worse when not warmed up yet. I didn't notice this when I test drove. I don't think it's the motor as I can hear it revving. Dealer tells me this is also completely normal.
Anybody else have these problems? Decent car for the money except for these problems.
How many miles have you driven on your new Accord? Your post reads as if you may just been used to your older vehicle and haven't adjusted to your new environment yet.
I have driven it 2700 miles. A few things took some getting used to, but I fear the hesitation and brakes will always bug me. Just wondering if others have had concerns with these two items, and what the dealer said or what fixes were done. It seems the vehicle lacks some refinements that come from building and testing a product before it reaches the market. How could a design team consider what I experience normal? Doesn't make sense. The hesitation is long enough to be dangerous pulling out into traffic (have to remember to come to a complete stop), and the brakes are so sensitive it's rediculous and dangerous to boot. If I have to "get used to" these obvious flaws it would be disappointing. Other cars I have owned only did this kind of stuff if they were malfunctioning.
I agreed with you Mr. Honda King (IsellHondas). Electronic Distributed Brakes (EDB) of Accord 2003, 2004, 2005 and Accord hybrid are excellent. I feel very much safer with the EDB on my Accord hybrid. My son's Accord EX Coupe 2003 is same with its EDB. It assures your Accord will stop at shortest distance. I think it is a big brake improvement compared with brakes on older model Honda.
I agree that the brakes on the newer Accords (friend has a 2004) are more grabby than most cars. But then again, my 90 stops faster than just about any other car I've ever owned. I wouldn't consider this a safety danger at all, just the opposite. Perhaps your car is even more grabby than the '04 I have driven but I was able to get used to it within a few minutes. You just have to be very light on the pedal.
Of course if it really bothers you, change the pads in the front from semi-metallic to organic or anything else a bit less biting.
As for the hesitation, the '04 did NOT have that. And that would annoy me as well.
Unless your particular vehicle has unique "brake" and "hesitation" concerns, I would be extremely surprised about them being generic or endemic to Accords. My 2004 Accord EX V6 Coupe exhibits neither of the "symptoms" that you've described. I would surely not consider them to be flaws. Rather, I suggest that you may just have been used to another type of ride and haven't become familiar with your Honda's.
What brand, model and year vehicle were you last driving? For how long?
I have an '03 Accord coupe (same generation) with the I4 engine but I have manual transmission so no hesitation to worry about. Some people complained about the brakes on the '03 Accords (mainly those with 6 cyl) but I have never experienced any problems whatsoever.
On a few occasions I still can make the brakes on my 03EXV6 a bit grabby. Just apply the brakes slowly & firmly, then it may help with grabby brakes.
Btw, that's thump noise doesn't seem to happen when I pump the brakes in the morning. Since I will be driving the car more often now, I will pay attention to this thump noise.
I just got my 2005 EX-V6 back from the dealer. I complained about a rattle/buzz in the front passenger door. After a test drive, they said they couldn't hear the rattle, but they ordered and new glove box. They kept the car overnight and installed the new glove box. The rattle seems to be gone now.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Could the problem have been a faulty glove box?
Had many of the same concerns when I first got my '05 Sedan AT. I thought the brakes to be overly touchy at times, and at other times they seemed to need lots of pressure to slow down, especially when slowing from speeds above 60 MPH..I have however been much happier with the braking performance, I guess that we are adjusting to each other. :surprise:
The hesitation problem you mention might be solved by increasing the quickness with which you depress the accelerator pedal, and give it a bit more pedal travel as well. This machine needs to downshift to quickly re-accelerate. By pressing down quickly you will stimulate the transmission to downshift quickly and get the engine in the power zone.(above 3000 RPM) This seems to help me.
Now if I could do something to improve the steering qualities of my Accord.
You wrote "Now if I could do something to improve the steering qualities of my Accord."
Have you kept your tire pressure at Honda's specified values? I.e. 32 p.s.i. front and 30 p.s.i. rear on the Coupe, or whatever on the sedan, depending upon your tire size. Correct tire pressures make major differences in steering/handling.
The tires are spot on for the LX Sedan 30/29 f/r . I have tried 2 under and two over, and has been aligned & rotated to no avail. I am beginning to accept that my Accord is not going to steer with the precision and accuracy that I was accustomed to with my previous vehicle.
There is a significant improvement in various performance characteristics as you can see from the survey result links. I believe that your LX sedan may have Michelins. Check the Tire Rack website to see what survey reports have been made for them.
Actually, I didn't replace them because they needed replacement. I'm leasing my 2004 EX Coupe for 41 months. So, when I return the car at the end of the term, there won't be enough rubber (1/8" or more is necessary) so I'll owe the leasing company a new set of tires. This way I'll be driving with much better tires until the end of my lease, at which time I'll swap the OEMs back onto the car with plenty of tread.
Thanks for the input. I am probably going to get a set of wheels and tires so I hope this will improve things but it will be a while.
Also my previous car was a Ford Focus ZX-3 which had extremely precise nearly telepathic steering and tracked down the road dead straight, and did not have near as much impact harshness my Accord. Just disappointed that the great Honda Accord does not steer better .
Hi; My mother in law has our old 83 accord; she has not changed the oil in ages and ages and it is filthy. The engine started making a rattling sound around the belt area, like a pulley needed oil. The gas company guy stopped her on the road, and told her she needed an oil change and it would fix the noise.
That doesn't sound likely to me, but is it POSSIBLE? I will definitely find out tonight after I change the oil (my first oil change I have done by myself..).
I just picked up my new Accord LX last night. On my drive home I realized the power door lock (on the driver door) and stereo controls (like scan, tune, etc) are not illuminated. Is this standard or do I need to take it back to the dealership.
Thanks. It is absolutely felt in the gas pedal. When i pull down my driveway and the thump occurs, i feel it in the gas pedal, or if my foor hapopens to be on the brake, I feel it there. Seems like others are having the same issue. it doesn't really affect anything, but it bothers me as the dealership was clueless.
NO dealership will admit to knowledge of the issue (or even the existence of the TSB), when confronted with the TSB, which identifies the occurence as innocuous.
If the TSB is correct, then why don't the service departments simply comply with confirmation procedure as opposed to:
1. claiming they have never had the complaint before - which we all know they have due to the frequency of this topic in the posts and
2. denying knowledge of the TSB - bogus because the TSB was distributed by Honda to their service departments
More serious than the mechanical issue here is an egregious credibility issue.
I have a 98 accord and I think that I am experiencing the same problems. When I turn the key everything on the dash lights up but there is no sound from the starter turning over. The dealer has looked at it and but hasn't found the problem yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
When I turn the key everything on the dash lights up but there is no sound from the starter turning over. The dealer has looked at it and but hasn't found the problem yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Please forgive me for reposting this message but I'm still have not been able to find the speed sensor on the automatic transmission of my 94 Accord with the VTEC engine. I know it needs to be replaced, and I've got the part. I just can't find where it goes. And please - treat me like an idiot. I feel pretty stupid. Thanks
Not possible by any stretch. But - it could be low on oil, as I am guessing if she has not changed the oil, she also hasn't checked it. Low oil can cause valve/lifter/rocker noise. Even if it isn't low - the viscocity of the oil may be so depleted that it is having the same effect. Either way - change the oil and see if it persists. If so, put pressure on the belt tensioner and see if it persists. If so - get it to the shop as it is likely an internal issue.
I have a 2005 Accord EX sedan that developed some interior rattles at approx. 2000 miles. A couple were fixed by the dealer, including a rattle behind the moon roof. The headliner has been replaced. However, there's still an intermittent rattle that appears to be coming from just behind the left side of the moonroof, and it's been consistently there for more than 2000 miles (car now has 5000 miles on it). It's more of a clicking sound (like a geiger counter going off), and it's not there when the road's wet.
Anyway, the dealer told me that they wouldn't address any more interior issues without the Honda factory rep getting involves as my car's been in there 5 times already to have rattles addressed. Fine ... the rep was at the dealer yesterday and he, the service manager, and I took a drive in my car. The car, of course, was on its "best behavior," and the noise was noticeable for the first part of the drive and then went away after the rep had me play around with opening and closing the moon roof. The rep's suggestion was to try repositioning the moon roof to see if that would help. He also said fixating on the noise makes it worse than it really is, that he'd buy me a CD (jokingly), and that my not hearing the rattle on a wet road was due to the road noise from the water (yeah, right).
The rep also said that he wouldn't even had anything done unless the rattle was noticeable on a flat, smooth road and that any rattles heard going over a manhole cover, bumps in the road, etc. are within Honda spec as they're due to body flex. I find that very hard to believe ... the car's got to have been designed tight enough not to rattle over small bumps in the road.
Well, the factory rep's "fix" didn't work ... I didn't think it would. I plan on waiting a week or two and then calling the dealer back for another appointment with the factory rep when he comes. I did notice that I can pretty much eliminate the rattle if I press up with moderate pressure on the left side of the large metal rectangular cross member just behind the moon roof opening when I had the moon roof vented. Does anyone know if that piece is welded to the body, if it could have a bad weld or crack that's causing the problem?
Also, any suggestions on how to handle the situation with the rep the next time?
I believe that the backlit switches and controls on the driver's door is only on EX and above models. The radio and ventilation controls and switches might be also as the EX has a different radio.
When driving my '04 Accord EX V-6 Coupe (6 spd.) I've noticed a hesitation under hard acceleration. Whether its pulling onto a highway under full throttle or downshifting and accelerating to pass, I've found that the engine bogs down if I floor it - even at rpms as high as 2500-3000 rpm when in gear.
However, if, instead of flooring it, I apply rapid steadily increasing pressure to the accelerator, I get much better pickup than if I just downshift and floor it. It almost seems as though it bogs down if I step on it too hard at first. It does not happen with the engine in neutral - she's a happy free-revver without any load on. It also seems less present with the traction control nanny turned off.
Anybody else have this problem? Is this a function of the VTEC system and/or the fact that these cars have to be revved much higher than the older models to get to the power band? Does the "drive-by-wire" electronic throttle have anything to do with this?
OK - second annoyance du jour with my '04 Accord EX V-6 Coupe 6 spd. - when letting the clutch out in 1st gear at around 1500 rpm (after the car is already warm) - I get a friction/rubbing type of noise (not unlike the whine of a power steering pump when the wheel is turned against the stops). Its fairly regular and noticeable (unless, of course, you're my Honda service tech) and its definitely tranny related. My first thought was throwout bearing but those almost never fail.
Also, for those who might assume me to be a M/T moron - I've been driving stickshift for over 20 years (every car I've ever owned) and the car did not do this for the 1st year/24,000 miles I had it (I don't tend to rev the rpms up too high when first rolling, though I've always given it more than enough gas to prevent a stall).
I began having the same problem. I can be at a stop and the car will try to jump ahead. I have been told this is a problem with the computer. It is sending out the wrong messages. I am having the computer scanned and will let you know the results, and if the problem has been fixed.
Is it normal for front side windows to "give" when they are lets say half way up. I noticed that I can move the glass by hand a little, glass itself does not seam to be in the fix position. Also, I took the car to the dealer and complain about window vibrating and making annoying noise, dealer replaced seal gasket around the window and told me that will take care of the problem. It did not help at all. any idea? thanks
on the other hand... I had my windows tinted 9 days ago, back window about 2 inches strip from the top has significant number of bubbles (some with fluid some not), this is the are where glass has "dots" Also, from outside close distance it looks kinda gray instead of limo. What is annoying whole top section of the window is not consistent - different shades or so. Any tint advice? should I give it more time or have it re-tinted. thanks again
i got a 94 accord Vtec and i have a problem with it. The problem is that first of all i guess the vtec does not work thats what my friends say. and when the car gets hot between 3-4000 rpm the engine keeps on going back and forward from 3 to 4000 rpm .this happens in like 2 secs and then the check engine light comes up and the car loses alot of power and when i turn the car off and back on it gets fixed till i go up to 3000 RPM same thing again but it this happens during the day time at night its fine and one more thing i live in Arizona and its like 100+here every day and i went to check the check engine light and it said some thing about the ECU or some thing like that please HELP ME
I have an 05 EX-L coupe. When I go over bumps, I don't have any rattles. I am surprised that a factory rep would hand out such garbage. Body flex does not have anything to do with it. Rattles can drive you crazy. A rattle is a rattle. Body flex is something different.
My 2005 Accord seems generate a lot of road noise on the freeway. Enough to seriously detract from listening to the radio. I can't tell if it is tire noise from the Michelins or just noise from the road that isn't blocked out by insulation. I was not expecting Accord to have so much noise. Is there something I or the dealer can do about this?
I'm new to this so here goes. My accord has had problems starting recently. When the engine is turned over everything lights up on the dash but there is no sound from the engine. The honda dealer checked the battery , starter, and thought it might be a nuetral sensor (which it wasn't). They are still looking. Has anyone experienced these symptoms as well? Thanks for your help.
There might be a few tiny clicks and creaks--after all, there are many small parts attached to one another.
My '04 EX-L sedan is very solid and quiet. Any nominal noises seem to disappear after the car has been driven a block or two when the car is cold. There are fewer odd noises in the Accord than in any other car I've ever had, so no complaints from me at all so far.
I think the Accord is a very tight, solid, and well manufactured car .......Richard
That's probably my only complaint about the Accord (mine's an '04 EX-L sedan). I think you'll notice a decrease in road noise after a couple of thousand miles because the tires do break in a bit. I think my car's road noise was slightly louder when it was new than it is now.
Much depends on the road surface; ribbed concrete can create a ringing sound and that's the case with many cars. Other road surfaces aren't quite as loud. Fresh blacktop is very quiet.
I don't think you can do anything about road noise without trying different tires which isn't worth doing unless the noise really bothers you. It doesn't bother me much at all now, but maybe my hearing is substandard anyway ........Richard
Did you eventually get this sorted out, vz1? I have had the exact same problem crop up in the last week. I have an '03 Accord V6. If you've found the problem I'd love to hear it.
Service manual says to turn the mirror all the way inward and then gently pry the mirror from the actuator to gain access to the inside if the mirror assembly. Then release the two hooks that hold the housing in place.
I am trying to hard wire my Ipod to my 2005 Honda Accord With Navi and XM radio. The dealer told me they can install a tape deck, but I want to use that aux port to hard wire my Ipod, and I do not want to give up my XM, any suggestions?
Go to bestbuy or circuit city and buy fm transmitter,get the $49.99 one. I have the same car 2005 accord coupe V6 EX and with fm transmitter my ipod work great.
Comments
1. Very sensitive brakes. Hard to get used to. I thought they would break in some, but they have actually gotten more sensitive. Dealer tells me they get a lot of complaints on this but it is normal.
2. Hesitation when slowing down from a higher gear (3, 4 or 5) to to 5-10 mph, then stepping on the gas there is a considerable hesitation while the transmission figures out what to do. It's worse when not warmed up yet. I didn't notice this when I test drove. I don't think it's the motor as I can hear it revving. Dealer tells me this is also completely normal.
Anybody else have these problems? Decent car for the money except for these problems.
Of course if it really bothers you, change the pads in the front from semi-metallic to organic or anything else a bit less biting.
As for the hesitation, the '04 did NOT have that. And that would annoy me as well.
Unless your particular vehicle has unique "brake" and "hesitation" concerns, I would be extremely surprised about them being generic or endemic to Accords. My 2004 Accord EX V6 Coupe exhibits neither of the "symptoms" that you've described. I would surely not consider them to be flaws. Rather, I suggest that you may just have been used to another type of ride and haven't become familiar with your Honda's.
What brand, model and year vehicle were you last driving? For how long?
Just apply the brakes slowly & firmly, then it may help with grabby brakes.
Btw, that's thump noise doesn't seem to happen when I pump the brakes in the morning. Since I will be driving the car more often now, I will pay attention to this thump noise.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Could the problem have been a faulty glove box?
From what I understand, I think the touchy brakes are normal. The hesitation I'm not sure about.
Had many of the same concerns when I first got my '05 Sedan AT. I thought the brakes to be overly touchy at times, and at other times they seemed to need lots of pressure to slow down, especially when slowing from speeds above 60 MPH..I have however been much happier with the braking performance, I guess that we are adjusting to each other. :surprise:
The hesitation problem you mention might be solved by increasing the quickness with which you depress the accelerator pedal, and give it a bit more pedal travel as well. This machine needs to downshift to quickly re-accelerate. By pressing down quickly you will stimulate the transmission to downshift quickly and get the engine in the power zone.(above 3000 RPM) This seems to help me.
Now if I could do something to improve the steering qualities of my Accord.
Good Luck
You wrote "Now if I could do something to improve the steering qualities of my Accord."
Have you kept your tire pressure at Honda's specified values? I.e. 32 p.s.i. front and 30 p.s.i. rear on the Coupe, or whatever on the sedan, depending upon your tire size. Correct tire pressures make major differences in steering/handling.
The tires are spot on for the LX Sedan 30/29 f/r . I have tried 2 under and two over, and has been aligned & rotated to no avail. I am beginning to accept that my Accord is not going to steer with the precision and accuracy that I was accustomed to with my previous vehicle.
Hermann
If you've been happier with the steering/handling of your Tauruses, then perhaps you should consider higher performance tires for your Accord. I recently replaced my OEM Bridgestone EL-42 tires http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+EL42 with Bridgestone Turanza LS-V tires http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Turanza+LS-V
There is a significant improvement in various performance characteristics as you can see from the survey result links. I believe that your LX sedan may have Michelins. Check the Tire Rack website to see what survey reports have been made for them.
Actually, I didn't replace them because they needed replacement. I'm leasing my 2004 EX Coupe for 41 months. So, when I return the car at the end of the term, there won't be enough rubber (1/8" or more is necessary) so I'll owe the leasing company a new set of tires. This way I'll be driving with much better tires until the end of my lease, at which time I'll swap the OEMs back onto the car with plenty of tread.
Thanks for the input. I am probably going to get a set of wheels and tires so I hope this will improve things but it will be a while.
Also my previous car was a Ford Focus ZX-3 which had extremely precise nearly telepathic steering and tracked down the road dead straight, and did not have near as much impact harshness my Accord. Just disappointed that the great Honda Accord does not steer better .
Hermann
My mother in law has our old 83 accord; she has not changed the oil in ages and ages and it is filthy. The engine started making a rattling sound around the belt area, like a pulley needed oil. The gas company guy stopped her on the road, and told her she needed an oil change and it would fix the noise.
That doesn't sound likely to me, but is it POSSIBLE? I will definitely find out tonight after I change the oil (my first oil change I have done by myself..).
I just picked up my new Accord LX last night. On my drive home I realized the power door lock (on the driver door) and stereo controls (like scan, tune, etc) are not illuminated. Is this standard or do I need to take it back to the dealership.
Thank you very much.
If the TSB is correct, then why don't the service departments simply comply with confirmation procedure as opposed to:
1. claiming they have never had the complaint before - which we all know they have due to the frequency of this topic in the posts and
2. denying knowledge of the TSB - bogus because the TSB was distributed by Honda to their service departments
More serious than the mechanical issue here is an egregious credibility issue.
Anyway, the dealer told me that they wouldn't address any more interior issues without the Honda factory rep getting involves as my car's been in there 5 times already to have rattles addressed. Fine ... the rep was at the dealer yesterday and he, the service manager, and I took a drive in my car. The car, of course, was on its "best behavior," and the noise was noticeable for the first part of the drive and then went away after the rep had me play around with opening and closing the moon roof. The rep's suggestion was to try repositioning the moon roof to see if that would help. He also said fixating on the noise makes it worse than it really is, that he'd buy me a CD (jokingly), and that my not hearing the rattle on a wet road was due to the road noise from the water (yeah, right).
The rep also said that he wouldn't even had anything done unless the rattle was noticeable on a flat, smooth road and that any rattles heard going over a manhole cover, bumps in the road, etc. are within Honda spec as they're due to body flex. I find that very hard to believe ... the car's got to have been designed tight enough not to rattle over small bumps in the road.
Well, the factory rep's "fix" didn't work ... I didn't think it would. I plan on waiting a week or two and then calling the dealer back for another appointment with the factory rep when he comes. I did notice that I can pretty much eliminate the rattle if I press up with moderate pressure on the left side of the large metal rectangular cross member just behind the moon roof opening when I had the moon roof vented. Does anyone know if that piece is welded to the body, if it could have a bad weld or crack that's causing the problem?
Also, any suggestions on how to handle the situation with the rep the next time?
I believe that the backlit switches and controls on the driver's door is only on EX and above models. The radio and ventilation controls and switches might be also as the EX has a different radio.
Hermann
However, if, instead of flooring it, I apply rapid steadily increasing pressure to the accelerator, I get much better pickup than if I just downshift and floor it. It almost seems as though it bogs down if I step on it too hard at first. It does not happen with the engine in neutral - she's a happy free-revver without any load on. It also seems less present with the traction control nanny turned off.
Anybody else have this problem? Is this a function of the VTEC system and/or the fact that these cars have to be revved much higher than the older models to get to the power band? Does the "drive-by-wire" electronic throttle have anything to do with this?
Also, for those who might assume me to be a M/T moron - I've been driving stickshift for over 20 years (every car I've ever owned) and the car did not do this for the 1st year/24,000 miles I had it (I don't tend to rev the rpms up too high when first rolling, though I've always given it more than enough gas to prevent a stall).
Thoughts? Suggestions? Tomatoes?! Thanks!
I noticed that I can move the glass by hand a little, glass itself does not seam to be in the fix position. Also, I took the car to the dealer and complain about window vibrating and making annoying noise, dealer replaced seal gasket around the window and told me that will take care of the problem.
It did not help at all.
any idea?
thanks
I had my windows tinted 9 days ago, back window about 2 inches strip
from the top has significant number of bubbles (some with fluid some
not), this is the are where glass has "dots" Also, from outside close distance it looks kinda gray instead of limo. What is annoying whole top section of the window is not consistent - different shades or so.
Any tint advice? should I give it more time or have it re-tinted.
thanks again
These noise might come from the side airbag which is very close to the glove.
Sometimes when you drive if seems that the noise are from the front passenger door but actually they aren't.
My '04 EX-L sedan is very solid and quiet. Any nominal noises seem to disappear after the car has been driven a block or two when the car is cold. There are fewer odd noises in the Accord than in any other car I've ever had, so no complaints from me at all so far.
I think the Accord is a very tight, solid, and well manufactured car
Much depends on the road surface; ribbed concrete can create a ringing sound and that's the case with many cars. Other road surfaces aren't quite as loud. Fresh blacktop is very quiet.
I don't think you can do anything about road noise without trying different tires which isn't worth doing unless the noise really bothers you. It doesn't bother me much at all now, but maybe my hearing is substandard anyway
Thanks,]
Jimmer
I have the same car 2005 accord coupe V6 EX and with fm transmitter my ipod work great.