My son has just bought a 1990 Accord with power windows. Today, the window will not go up. The motor works, but the window has slipped from between the rubber channel that guides it. We've taken the door frame off, but can't get to the window.
First question, any advice on getting this operational again? Second question, what would cause this and is there anything we can do to prevent it from happening again?
Thanks for the reply. Thats a relief about the anti-lock brakes. The road noise is kind of annoying since you think they would've picked up on that early since (at least mine) maximizes during the speed you are supposed(!) to be driving on the highway.
:sick: My son is interested in a used 4dr Lx with a 4cyl.and 100,000 miles. During the test drive I thought that the car seemed to shift awfully hard a couple of times going into gear and all the way up to 3rd gear. Is this normal for a Honda Accord or could it possibly be the start of transmission problems?What about just putting in a new transmission filter?What other kind of problems should we be looking for on this particular year and model?Thanks for the help. Rhett.
Honda automatic I have ever owned shifts a little harder in the lower gears. It could just be a characteristic of the transmission you are feeling. Honda transmissions also require Honda transmission fluid. At 100,000 miles it should have had a fluid change by now. Ask the owner if they have flushed the tranny and if so ask for the receipt to see if it was done at the dealer.
Honda transmission fluid should be changed every year or 12K - 20K miles. Coolant should be flushed every 12 - 20K miles or every year too. It will keep you son's car fresh and smooth with new fluid at all time.
I have the same problem with an Accord EX-L 05 4 cylinder MT. I noticed right out of the dealership when I bought it. I play my radio so much that I don't hear it, but when the radio is off it is annoying. If your dealer finds the problem, please let me know what it is.
I have a 2001 Accord LX and the clock light went out. Removed the screws at the bottom of the panel and have been able to get the bottom of the panel to come out about an inch but can't get the top to release. Hate to pay the dealer $80 to change a bulb. Anyone know the trick to getting the panel off without breaking it?
Do you think #10 from the diagram might be what's wrong with my 88 Accord? I was driving about 40 mph when the car just shut off. I mean it was like somebody just reached over and turned the ignition key off. I have learned that after the engine cools off good, I can re-start it and drive it until it gets good and warmed up again. The first thing I notice is that the engine starts missing pretty bad; then the tach just goes dead as if someone unplugged it; then the engine just shuts off. Hope someone can help. This car runs great...when it's running that is.
OK, I haven't looked under the hood on a Accord since my '88 until I purchased my '04. It was nice to check the freon level of the A/C system with the sight glass on the receiver/dryer. I don't see any on my '04. I take it there isn't one? Living in Wisconsin and all the road salt they use, I have yet had a car that didn't eventually loose it's freon due to the condensor rotting away from the salt attacking it.
Sorry, but I haven't tried to locate a sight glass on my 2004 Accord yet, but don't even THINK of adding Freon to your system. The production of Freon (R-12) was discontinued in 1995 as a result of the 1990 Clean Air Act, and R-134a refrigerant was developed as an environmentally safe alternative. That's probably what you'll find in your Honda.
Yes I realize that my Accord uses R-134a, so does my 95 Tacoma pick-up which DOES have a sight glass. I should have said refrigerant and not Freon. I'm still disappointed that my 04 doesn't have one. All of my other vehicles have one, just disappointed that Honda decided to drop using them. It was an easy and quick way to see if there was a leak in a functional system.
I think it is. A co-worker's 92 Accord EX did the same thing. He was driving on the highway, the engine suddenly stopped. He can then restart the car after the engine cooled off. The problem went away after he had the igniter replaced. That was the second time he replaced the igniter in two years. His local shop didn't use OEM part.
You didn't tell us the model year. It's not easy to replace a tranny filter. The filter is inside the tranny housing. At 100K, you will be looking at a timing belt replacement if it has not been done so. The price range can go from 500-700.
I made an appt. with my Honda service to replace the tranny fluid along with a warranty work on the front passenger seat's side cover (broken clip) for my 03EXV6. The dealer said they don't recommend to change it until 30K. Looking at the service record for my 89LXi, I didn't change the fluid until a major service at 36K. Thereafter, I had changed it every 2 years/24K. The same thing for coolant service. At 207k, the car still has the original tranny & radiator. I think every year is over killed.
You may want to reread your Honda user manual. It is very easy to a mechanic to change transmission fluid and coolant. It is good for your car. Changing them every 2 years or 24K miles is OK but do not let them stay in your engine too long. Changing brake fluid is tough but changing transmission oil and coolant is very easy stuff.
Right on with your reply!! I ended up taking it in for a alternator test at the dealer ($16) and the alternator proved to be the problem. I also had the same problem with the SRS light going on and off imtermittently, which is why I went to the dealer. I bought an installed a rebuilt ($209) at a local NAPA, belt and also put in a new battery. The car runs smooth and quiet now with no SRS light problem. It's funny that these Delco alternators would go bad so soon. I have 68,000 miles on the car. My old Audi 90 alternator had over 250,000 miles on it when I sold it and no alternator problem, but I did change the brushes at about 150,000 mi.
Thanks for the reply. I will visit this forum again, but still not sure how to navigate Is there any way to follow a thread.
I don't think you have remove any screws to replace the clock light (or maybe just the plastic trim piece). I recently did mine and what you do is take a flat head screw driver (wrap the tip with a paper towel so as not to scratch anything) and place it under the clock, push down gently and the whole "clock pod" pops out. There is a small plastic piece behind the pod that you unscrew by hand and replace the bulb. The bulb costs $4-$6 dollars at the dealer.
Do a search within this forum I think this was described in detail earlier, or maybe it was described in detail from a Crutchfield radio replacement sheet I have. Let me know if you have any trouble.
Thanks Chucko3. How involved is replacing this thing anyway? It looks fairly simple. I have an 86' Accord that I use for parts. I wonder if the igniter is compatible with my 88'. I didn't mention this before, but I didn't have this current trouble until I took the coil off the 86' and put it on the 88'. I was trying to get rid of the miss in the engine. Not only did it not get rid of the miss, but now I have this other problem we have been talking about. I put the original coil back on the 88' but it didn't make the problem go away. I must have really made that igniter mad, huh. Anyway, I'm going to replace the igniter. I'll let you know if it fixes the problem or not.
Will a bad condensor fan cause the check engine light to come on? I have a 96 Accord EX with 4 cylinder Vtec. When is the condensor fan supposed to run? I have tried hot wiring fan from the battery, but it doesn't come on.
Has anyone noticed that the paint on the newer Accords is just not that good? My 2005 Accord with less that 4K on the odometer has multiple chips in the hood... No other car I have ever owned has chipped this much in such a brief ammount of time. No I don't drive on gravel roads and things like that and my driving route/s have been nearly the same for many years.
My girlfriends 2005 Taurus that she drives on nearly identical roads as me has almost no chips whatsoever. I know this for a fact because I hand washed both of our cars over the weekend. The paint seems to be durable on the Ford Taurus (go figure!).
I just checked the Honda Owner's Manual for my 2005 Accord EX-V6, and it says I should change my automatic transmission fluid at 60,000 miles or 3 years, and then every 30,000 miles or 2 years thereafter.
What manual are you referring to? I've never seen a Honda manual recommend yearly transmission fluid changes. I don't debate that changing the fluid yearly would keep the transmission in excellent condition, but I have to believe following the recommended maintenance schedule will accomplish the same thing.
However, I agree with you...some vehicles seem more prone to chipping than others. I suspect it is the shape of the front end, rather than the quality of the paint. Obviously, stones are kicked up from the road by the tires of vehicles (mostly trucks) in front of you. Allowing a greater following distance, especially with tractor-trailers and flatbeds, could make a difference.
The 86 & 88. Are they both LXi or LX? The LXi uses TEC for the distributor OEM, part #10 in the diagram. The LX uses TEC or Hitachi. So as long as they both use the same distributor OEM, the igniter is the same. I have an 89LXi. From its look, the hard part is to remove the bottom screw. Not much room there. You may have to remove the battery to get to it. Let me know if the igniter fixes the problem.
I have a 97 Accord SE with 130K. Just had the passenger airbag light go on, dealer reset and it came back on. Dealer wants $1500 bucks to replace. I had both airbags replaced by the same dealer in 1999 due to a wreck. Any ideas on checking something else on the car? Electrical? Hard to justify $1500 for a $3000 car. Thanks
I just discovered that my one-month-old Accord with ivory leather has a scratch on the side of the front passenger seat. There are a few tiny holes which need to be sealed. What is the best product to use? Thanks for any help.
I just bought a 2005 Accord EX (4-cyl), and while I'd heard that the Accord had a relatively stiff ride, I've been disappointed in how bad the ride is. On an absolutely smooth highway it's fine, but on city streets (and suburban streets) you feel every bump (especially bad in the back seat), every slightly uneven surface. It almost feels like there is nothing between you and the road. Is this normal? (I have a 97 Mazda Protege that is a more comfortable ride.) My dealer's service manager agrees that it seems rougher than it should but said the struts were OK (he's agreed to put some new ones on though isn't optimistic it will help). Any ideas?
just bought a 2000 accord and now the srs light came on, then after taking it for a tune up and oil change the check engine light was also on. it also seems to hesitate when turning or accelerate and then kick in after a couple seconds. help...anyone?
My A/C blows cool air when idling, but at speed, it's warm. It's also slightly cooler on the passenger side... I checked the system, and it's not losing any pressure. WHat can be wroong here? :confuse:
Why don't you ask the dealer to let you drive other Accord EX's on the lot and see how they compare? A dealer should not be throwing new struts on a brand new car... Sounds like they are just throwing parts on it because they want to keep you pacified that they are doing all they can do.
If I had a brand new car that was down for rear struts I would be on the phone and getting a free months payment for the inconvienence of not having my car while its in the shop.
When I purchased my Honda Accord from a private seller, it came with an extended warranty, (Honda Care). Now that my A/C compressor needs to be replaced, the Honda Dealer cannot get the needed part. It is now going on three weeks. What good is the extended warranty, if parts are not available. If I was on a road trip, and I needed a major repair, I would be stuck waiting for a part. The Honda Care extended warranty program is a joke! No more Honda vehicles for me. As soon as this vehicle is repaired, it is history! I am going to wait for the 2006 vehicles to hit the market. I will look at the Chevrolet Impala or the Buick line, (maybe a Park Ave.). ---Best regards. ---- Dwayne
Only the top seating areas of the seats are leather, if it's on the side, then it is probably vinyl. Even if it is leather, I don't think that you want to "seal" leather. It's advantage over vinyl is that it breathes, thats something you don't want to loose if you were to try and seal it.
I use a brand name leather conditioner on my 04 Accord. It adds things like glycerin which in my opinion keeps the leather pliable so it doesn't dry out and crack and or split.There are many leather treatments available, don't skimp, any purchase will treat the seats many times.
rangerfan, were you ever able to install the fm modulator directly to your 2003 accord? I just purchased a 2003 Accord and am having the same issue and was looking for some guidance to how to set up my XM radio. Thx.
Have a problem with our 2000 accord ex v6. Runs well from cold start, but after a 10 to 20 minute shutdown, runs very rough for about five minutes. Sound like your issue? Dealer claims fuel press reg and PCM. I like reg only, then try pcm. Thoughts.
Hi, I have a the same problem and it occured only today...same left turn noise and water leaking out under the dash board near the glove box...What shops would do this? I mean blowingf the compressed air up the drain hose/tube? Anything like Jiffy lube/pep boys?
Anyone with an air compressor can do what you are asking. Would they be willing do it would be another question. It should not harm anything, but they may not want to risk it.
The problem is the gunk they blow out of the plugged drain still stays in the ductwork, and eventually it can replug the drain. The best way would be to drop the ductwork and clean it out.
I purchased my '04 Accord EX in 11/03 and fairly soon after that the car developed a creaking sound from both driver & passenger doors only when the windows are fully rolled up. Finally, after nearly 24k miles I took it in to the dealer to get the problem fixed. The dealer just installed new run channels on both front doors and so far the driver side seems to be fixed but the passenger side still has the creaking noise. I've just picked the car up so I won't levy a final judgement until I get a few more miles on it. I'm well aware of this issue and all the posts regarding it in this forum and there just doesn't seem to be any real answer to the problem. The silicone on the door seals has not worked for me and unfortunately the noisy windows just isn't in character with what I expected from a car that is supposed to be the top of the line. My car is not quite a lemon but on the second day of ownership the windshield rattled and creaked like it was going to break up any minute, turns out the dealer had to re-seal it since it was done incorrectly at the factory. Everything else about the car is ok and the creaking noise is not too bad BUT it is annoying to the point where I've actually started thinking about selling it. My '92 stripper toyota tercel with vinyl seats and no air didn't have any of the creaks and groans the accord does and honestly I liked that car better because it went down the road like I expected a new car should. Not sure where Honda went wrong but they definately made goof somewhere in the design of the window/door seals. Frankly any car that costs as much as the accord does should not have such rediculous problems. My wifes '03 CRV has more road noise and the tray table clanks around but I expect that to be there. I find her vehicle much more enjoyable to drive than the accord despite it having less leg room. At this point the only redeeming thing the Accord has for it is it's "reputation" and fair resale value. Hopefully that will hold up.
As mentioned you may want to check air pressures but generally the accord has a stiff ride. Toyota's Camry has a much better ride and is quieter over rough road surfaces. The accord is no sports car so the stiff ride is really not welcome by the average driver that just wants to be transported to work, errands etc. , it's a family car for goodness sake. I for one am looking forward to the redesigned Camry and might be tempted to trade if it retains the smooth ride of the present generation.
There wouldn't be sooo many Accords on the road. It's not like they started riding like this in the current generation. There are many of us who have owned several generations of Accords and other Hondas and continue to buy them for the controlled "anti-Camry" ride.
Check out all the Accords you see with lower profile tires and springs. Those additions aren't there to make the ride any smoother. I'll tell you that.
Hi all, I've owned a 2002 EX-V6 sedan since day one and for a while now the automatic climate control seems to be a bit off. It runs the A/C at full blast even when I set the temperature setting very high, even in the middle of a Canadian winter. Anyone else experienced this?
I sold my '98 accord when I got my '04 so I too have experience with Honda's. The lower profile tires and springs you speak of don't make the accord handle head and shoulders above the camry, it just delivers a stiffer ride. I don't think too many accord buyers made their purchase decision based on the accord's handling, again, it ain't a sports car.
The Accord already has a stiffer ride then the Camry. Lower profile tires and springs may improve the handling slightly but not by a huge amount.
Actually quite a a lot of people buy the Accord because of it's better handling, and better suspension. I know it ain't a Mazda 6 but it is still better then the Camry.
I think the run channel is a bit wide for the window glass. When the car runs over a rough road, the glass rubs against the channel walls and makes the creaking noise. Oh man, the noise is really annoying and drives me nut. I know how you feel. Instead of bringing the car to the dealer, here's what I did for the two front doors of my 03EXV6. I cut a block/string (3/16 in W x 3/16 in D) made of poly foam. The length goes from the side mirror to upper top corner. The string is fit nicely inside the run channel. One can't even see the string when the window is down. When the window is all the way up, it pushes against the foam and is held firmly.
Just don't make the string too wide, it won't fit inside the channel. Or too deep, the window won't go all the way up and the water may leak in. The creaking noise is gone for two weeks. Now I can enjoy my car again.
P.S. I bought my car in 11/02. The creaking noise appeared a month ago with 15K miles on the odo.
bantu, there isn't much risk as far as I know (although possible exception may be moisture getting into the radio).
as a previous poster indicated, anyone with an air compressor can do this for you - and might not even charge you.
i wonder if a bicycle pump might accomplish the same thing. the issue is, as the previous poster alluded to - if debris remains in the pan, you are merely disloging it from the drain, and it will probably re-accumulate there.
remember, what ever you do, remember to keep the air intake under the windshield wiper (seen when the hood is open), free from leaves, sticks, bark, pine needles, etc.
Comments
First question, any advice on getting this operational again?
Second question, what would cause this and is there anything we can do to prevent it from happening again?
Thanks!
Rhett.
Sorry, but I haven't tried to locate a sight glass on my 2004 Accord yet, but don't even THINK of adding Freon to your system. The production of Freon (R-12) was discontinued in 1995 as a result of the 1990 Clean Air Act, and R-134a refrigerant was developed as an environmentally safe alternative. That's probably what you'll find in your Honda.
Oh well, I guess you can't have everything.
Mrbill
That was the second time he replaced the igniter in two years.
His local shop didn't use OEM part.
It's not easy to replace a tranny filter. The filter is inside the tranny housing.
At 100K, you will be looking at a timing belt replacement if it has not been done
so. The price range can go from 500-700.
03EXV6. The dealer said they don't recommend to change it until 30K.
Looking at the service record for my 89LXi, I didn't change the fluid until a major service at 36K. Thereafter, I had changed it every 2 years/24K. The same thing for
coolant service. At 207k, the car still has the original tranny & radiator.
I think every year is over killed.
You may want to reread your Honda user manual. It is very easy to a mechanic to change transmission fluid and coolant. It is good for your car. Changing them every 2 years or 24K miles is OK but do not let them stay in your engine too long. Changing brake fluid is tough but changing transmission oil and coolant is very easy stuff.
Thanks for the reply. I will visit this forum again, but still not sure how to navigate Is there any way to follow a thread.
Do a search within this forum I think this was described in detail earlier, or maybe it was described in detail from a Crutchfield radio replacement sheet I have. Let me know if you have any trouble.
My girlfriends 2005 Taurus that she drives on nearly identical roads as me has almost no chips whatsoever. I know this for a fact because I hand washed both of our cars over the weekend. The paint seems to be durable on the Ford Taurus (go figure!).
What is the scoop on this??
What manual are you referring to? I've never seen a Honda manual recommend yearly transmission fluid changes. I don't debate that changing the fluid yearly would keep the transmission in excellent condition, but I have to believe following the recommended maintenance schedule will accomplish the same thing.
http://www.web-cars.com/detail/touchup.php
However, I agree with you...some vehicles seem more prone to chipping than others. I suspect it is the shape of the front end, rather than the quality of the paint. Obviously, stones are kicked up from the road by the tires of vehicles (mostly trucks) in front of you. Allowing a greater following distance, especially with tractor-trailers and flatbeds, could make a difference.
The LXi uses TEC for the distributor OEM, part #10 in the diagram. The LX uses
TEC or Hitachi. So as long as they both use the same distributor OEM, the igniter
is the same.
I have an 89LXi. From its look, the hard part is to remove the bottom screw. Not much room there. You may have to remove the battery to get to it.
Let me know if the igniter fixes the problem.
Thanks
Initial change at 120k and then every 90k or 5 years is normal conditions.
For normal conditions, I would probably be changing mine at an even 60k intervals.
Mrbill
You might also want to check your tire pressure. If the tires are overinflated that could cause a rougher ride . . .
If I had a brand new car that was down for rear struts I would be on the phone and getting a free months payment for the inconvienence of not having my car while its in the shop.
I use a brand name leather conditioner on my 04 Accord. It adds things like glycerin which in my opinion keeps the leather pliable so it doesn't dry out and crack and or split.There are many leather treatments available, don't skimp, any purchase will treat the seats many times.
Mrbill
Sound like your issue?
Dealer claims fuel press reg and PCM. I like reg only, then try pcm.
Thoughts.
The problem is the gunk they blow out of the plugged drain still stays in the ductwork, and eventually it can replug the drain. The best way would be to drop the ductwork and clean it out.
Mrbill
The last time that rangerfan posted on any Townhall forum was November 2004. He probably won't read your post #11342.
Check out all the Accords you see with lower profile tires and springs. Those additions aren't there to make the ride any smoother. I'll tell you that.
Actually quite a a lot of people buy the Accord because of it's better handling, and better suspension. I know it ain't a Mazda 6 but it is still better then the Camry.
When the car runs over a rough road, the glass rubs against the channel walls and makes the creaking noise. Oh man, the noise is really annoying and drives
me nut. I know how you feel.
Instead of bringing the car to the dealer, here's what I did for the two front doors of
my 03EXV6.
I cut a block/string (3/16 in W x 3/16 in D) made of poly foam. The length goes
from the side mirror to upper top corner. The string is fit nicely inside the run channel. One can't even see the string when the window is down.
When the window is all the way up, it pushes against the foam and is held firmly.
Just don't make the string too wide, it won't fit inside the channel. Or too deep,
the window won't go all the way up and the water may leak in.
The creaking noise is gone for two weeks. Now I can enjoy my car again.
P.S. I bought my car in 11/02. The creaking noise appeared a month ago with
15K miles on the odo.
as a previous poster indicated, anyone with an air compressor can do this for you - and might not even charge you.
i wonder if a bicycle pump might accomplish the same thing. the issue is, as the previous poster alluded to - if debris remains in the pan, you are merely disloging it from the drain, and it will probably re-accumulate there.
remember, what ever you do, remember to keep the air intake under the windshield wiper (seen when the hood is open), free from leaves, sticks, bark, pine needles, etc.