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I've got the same problem. My radio display panel's light went out. The dealer told me that I have to replace the whole radio. Did you solve the problem? I mean did you find the bulb anyway or you had to replace the radio. It is stupid for me to spend a couple of hundreds of dollars for the new radio if only the bulb needs to be replaced. Please tell me what did you do.
I purchased a piece of 1/2" grid "hardware cloth" ( available at any Lowes/Home Depot, Menards) cut it to fit behind the opening in the bumper, gave it a coat of black paint, and attached it with 3 black tie wraps. Unless you know what to look for, it appears that it could have come that way from the factory!!
The only hard part was removing the plastic cover to allow access to the back of the bumper.
For me it was a cheap fix that works as well as other add-on available.
Mrbill
I'm not sure what you mean by "have rebuilt shaft installed, then have to rebuild it again." I'm assuming that what that is saying is the shaft was replaced with a rebuilt unit, it failed again, and now it needs rebuilding again?
As long as the broken boots are caught soon enough, the shaft can be rebuilt, if it is run too long with cracked boots, the grease excapes thru the cracks, the joint runs dry, and dirt gets in and makes it worse by adding grit to the joint and grinding metal away. The problem with rebuilding them at the dealer is the labor cost.
Replacement shafts either come as rebuilt units )new boots and grease) or totally new shafts ( joints and boots)
Some of the other features of the nav may not work as an "added in later" system, one being the trip computer.
Since you've double-posted, here's mine.
You've not indicated how old your car is, or whether (if it's older) you know if any part of the fuel system may have been replaced, such as the fuel gauge, fuel tank sending unit, etc. An improper repair could cause such concerns. If it's a new car than you should consult your dealer to have them resolve the issue under warranty.
Your best path is to calculate exactly what your fuel mileage is. After filling your tank, divide the number of gallons of fuel purchased by the number of miles driven since the last fill-up. Do this for three or four tankfulls to average out your miles per gallon (mpg).
You can multipy your average miles per gallon by the number of gallons that your Owner's Manual states that your tank holds. That will tell you the maximum number of miles you can expect to be able to drive between fill-ups. You should also be able to estimate your range at various fuel gauge readings this way.
Thanks
Do not allow yourself to be sold unnecessary additional services such as oil & fuel additives, engine or transmission flushes, etc. These only represent additional dealer markup items.
Over the weekend, I plugged something into the cigarette lighter/adapters and unfortunately for me, the metal piece got stuck inside. (When I went to pull it out, the cord broke and left the little metal piece still attached to the inside). Sorry if I'm not making sense, but I don't know how to better phrase this.
It wasn't much of a concern, cause there are multiple outlets in the car. But I noticed that the other one wasn't working anymore.
What could you recommend for me to do to help fix this?
Thanks everyone.
My car eventually starts up again (about an hour later). What could the problem be?
So here's a 2-1/2-year old Accord, now with a mulfunctioning cruise control, weakling engine that hesitates and vibrates as it struggles to accelerate on a slightly hilly terrrain, crappy clutch, horsey brake engines when you release your foot from the gas pedal (say when you attempt to brake, but then decide not to and have to step on the gas again), and more.
This is a crappy car -- my first and last.
Very disappointed, ramida
Just a suggestion.
Good luck in your upgrade, sounds like you have an interesting challenge ahead of you.
Mrbill
Biker, who thinks that pulling anything out of a 12V adapter by the cord is bad idea. :shades:
My dealer says Accords make this sound and there is nothing they can do. I find the whine irritating and don't think a new Honda Accord should sound that way.
Any idea what this whine is? Any advice?
If only the boots are the problem, you can replace just them and not the whole shaft.
Shaft/boot problems should be pretty obvious anytime one changes the oil on the car - unless it's a RWD car. :shades:
I haven't asked for any more service on this situation since the tranny replacement, but am going to bring it up again tomorrow when I take it in for routine service. I'll let you know what they tell me. I'm beginning to think this kind of noise is normal with Honda, which, if true, would be a very sad comment on their engineering expertise.
But ever since that episode, mostly on hwy driving over 1 hour, the tachometer (only) will jump all over the place. Sometimes with no measureable effect on driving, but on 3 occasions the dancing tachometer has spurned a "pulsating' engine feel. I've still got power and am able to drive ok, but there is a pusling of minor loss of power. It nearly gave my wife an ulcer on our anniversary down in Monterey CA. I've taken it to a shop (not the original dealership) that claimed he knew the problem existed within the distributor cap. I paid him $90.00 to do whatever it is he did. Great. 2 weeks later - dancing again - very sporadically. I've only experienced it once since.
So now it's almost like an anxiety attack - the fear of the fear of the event maybe happening. Will this little 'hard to diagnose' problem cause a major breakdown soon? The honda dealership's advice was..."well, when it happens next time, just bring 'er in and we'll have a tech go on a drive with you so they can experience it."
My mechanic who tried to fix said he'd checked in with this Honda experts, but hadn't got any word back yet. And still haven't heard squat from him - he happens to have the customer service skills of a drugged sloth. So - this being my very first post...and yes, long I know - any help out there...? I'd love to be able to go to this mechanic with some actual info to help fix this occasional 'ghost in the machine' glitch.
The advantage of rebuilding and reusing the same shaft that came off of the car would be the knowledge of the condition of the shaft before it was removed off the car. If the boots were found to have recently cracked, (due to regular inspections between oil changes) and there is still grease in them, then they may be worth rebuilding. I have rebuilt numerous shafts over the years, and as long as the shafts were in good condition. they were just fine until the boots failed again.
BTW, the "gears" you mention at each end are not really gears. They are splines that match the splines at the hub and at the trans. Typically there isn't wear in the splines.
Mrbill
I just purchased a 2005 honda accord v6 and I am getting that thumping noise in the gas pedal. You have described the problem to a t. I noticed that you took the car to the dealer and they adjusted something but it did not work. Did you ever go back with the car and let them check it again? I am curious to know what they had to say. Did you have to leave the car and did it make the thump for them to hear? We called the dealer and they claim they have never heard of this problem. Please get back to me if you can. Thanks Joyce
I asked him to send me the article, but I don't seem to have it. I hesitate to call it a technical service bulletin, or whatever they call those things -- it seemed more like a backgrounder. I don't even recall what the fix was supposed to be. As I said, they put a replacement tranny in my car. Perhaps your service manager could find the same article. Sorry I can't be more informative about it. But the existence of the article told me I wasn't the first one to bring this matter up.
But i checked the the brake fluid level, the light bulbs
but my lamp brake is still on.
What else can i do?
level & parking brake switch) can trigger the warning light.
Here is what you can do to test the warning check circuit.
1. Remove fuse #10 (7.5A) under the dash fuse box.
2. Put the ignition switch to Start. No need to start the engine.
3a. If the warning brake light is off, it means the check circuit failed. It's probably the transistor blew and kept the warning light on.
3b. If the warning brake light is still on, it means the check circuit is OK. So either
the fluid level float in the reservoir doesn't move up or the parking brake switch fails.
I would open the brake fluid reservoir cap and check if the float can move up/down freely. Be careful not to contaminate the fluid.
It's part #10 in the diagram.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Acco- rd&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=4DR+LXI&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=MASTER+CYLINDER
I own a 2005 V6 Accord EX and am having the same problems with the brakes and hesitation. I find it very frustrating in rush hour traffic but my dealer also said it was normal and wouldn't look into it. I was wondering if it was a V6 problem but it sounds like your 4 cyl is having the same issues.
Like the initial release of computer software applications, where bugs or issues are not uncommon, a car redesign is also bound to introduce design flaws or undesirable traits, which are normally addressed by prompt recalls and TSBs. Unfortunately, many of the undesirable "traits" observed by a few customers (like me) are considered to be "normal", and so they remain unaddressed that way (unless our "smart" Honda engineers are monitoring these Honda forums for feedbacks).
I have test driven the newer models (04, 05, 06 -- I own an 03), and I'm not impressed at all.
Very disappointed,
ramida (owner of a crappy Accord)
Did you say you test drove the 06 Accord? :confuse:
It's a shame that you have experienced whatever "problems" with your 2003 Accord. But I can assure czabba, who owns a 2005 vehicle, that I have had absolutely no significant concerns with my 2004 Accord EX V6 Coupe. In fact, the only one that I can think of, was when my overhead sunglass holder door kept springing open. The holder was immediately replaced under warranty.
This is a great car.
There may be certain things that someone coming from another type of vehicle has to acclimate themseves to, such as brake feel, but that's to be expected such cases.
I changed my route to work so I don't end up at a yield and merge, so I don't notice the hesitation much anymore. Have to come to a complete stop. I have also learned not to punch the accelerator in this situation like in my old car when I slow down to 5mph or so from a higher speed and need to accelerate. Even thought I'm getting used to it, the transmission still shouldn't hesitate under this one condition.
I bought the Accord VP as it is a good car for 16K new. For the cost of the EX I would have purchased something else. Like I said, I am picky. Every car I considered and test drove had some concerns. I didn't find a perfect car for under 18K and didn't expect to.
Someone else mentioned gas mileage. I get 18mpg city, and 34hwy. For the 18mpg it takes me 25-30 minutes to drive only 5 miles to work or home again in rush hour traffic. I spend a lot of time stopped and creeping forward. It is also hot and I have the AC on. I can't expect much mileage with that kind of driving. An 03 Civic in the same situation gets 25mpg.
After going through the remanufactured transmission replacement last year, I'm a little worn out with this situation. I may take it back at a later date and go for a drive with the service manager, but not today. Enough is enough. I'm approaching 14,000 miles on the car and have no other important complaints--in fact, I like it a lot in an overall sense. Quality throughout, with this one exception, but it's an important one.
I hope you have better luck with your situation. I'd be very interested to hear what happens.
I did start the car and let it sit twice, just to see if the oil would drain down and change the dipstick reading, but so far it's the same.
If you do your own oil change, how much do you add?
Dave
Could they have installed a wrong dip stick?
Somewhere I recall reading that the engine actually takes more then 5 quarts, but only drains out the 4.4 quarts. Do you use ramps when you drain oil? If so, maybe the angle of the car allows more then the 4.4 quarts that drains out when level.
If you are still having problems, let me know. I can measure the length of my dip stick for comparison.
Mrbill
Check with the service dept at your dealer, they may be able to make a educated guess on what it would cost to readjust. I would not think it would be that much $$
mrbill
Thinking about getting the red to replace the white LX I have now.
(Even though I don't like the shade in the EX as well as the shade of red the DX has.)
I've heard that red paint does not hold up well, especially not garaged in the Florida sun.
Truth or fiction?
Thanks,
S
Has anyone else experienced this before or has heard of such a problem with the Accord or any other car?