I changed the igniter but it didn't fix the problem. First the tach goes dead, then the engine a few minutes later. After it cools off, I can start it up again. I think I'll change the distributor. ">
Hello I've got the same problem. My radio display panel's light went out. The dealer told me that I have to replace the whole radio. Did you solve the problem? I mean did you find the bulb anyway or you had to replace the radio. It is stupid for me to spend a couple of hundreds of dollars for the new radio if only the bulb needs to be replaced. Please tell me what did you do.
I can go about 200 miles from a full tank of gas to a half tank. When going to a half tank to when the gauge is on E, I can barely go 100 miles. This is with and without A/C on. Thus my MPG decreases by at least half when I'm driving on half a tank of gas. Why would it do this?
I have a 04 Accord, and I was able to avoid the rock problem for $2.00
I purchased a piece of 1/2" grid "hardware cloth" ( available at any Lowes/Home Depot, Menards) cut it to fit behind the opening in the bumper, gave it a coat of black paint, and attached it with 3 black tie wraps. Unless you know what to look for, it appears that it could have come that way from the factory!!
The only hard part was removing the plastic cover to allow access to the back of the bumper.
For me it was a cheap fix that works as well as other add-on available.
There is nothing to weld on a shaft. Rebuilt only means that they would rebuild the shaft by removing the old boots, clean up things, and replace boots and grease. Any more then that, the shaft would be considered junk and would be scrapped.
I'm not sure what you mean by "have rebuilt shaft installed, then have to rebuild it again." I'm assuming that what that is saying is the shaft was replaced with a rebuilt unit, it failed again, and now it needs rebuilding again?
As long as the broken boots are caught soon enough, the shaft can be rebuilt, if it is run too long with cracked boots, the grease excapes thru the cracks, the joint runs dry, and dirt gets in and makes it worse by adding grit to the joint and grinding metal away. The problem with rebuilding them at the dealer is the labor cost.
Replacement shafts either come as rebuilt units )new boots and grease) or totally new shafts ( joints and boots)
You've not indicated how old your car is, or whether (if it's older) you know if any part of the fuel system may have been replaced, such as the fuel gauge, fuel tank sending unit, etc. An improper repair could cause such concerns. If it's a new car than you should consult your dealer to have them resolve the issue under warranty.
Your best path is to calculate exactly what your fuel mileage is. After filling your tank, divide the number of gallons of fuel purchased by the number of miles driven since the last fill-up. Do this for three or four tankfulls to average out your miles per gallon (mpg).
You can multipy your average miles per gallon by the number of gallons that your Owner's Manual states that your tank holds. That will tell you the maximum number of miles you can expect to be able to drive between fill-ups. You should also be able to estimate your range at various fuel gauge readings this way.
I have a '96 Accord V-TEC 4 cylinder and need to replace the EGR valve. Anyone know where it is located on this engine. I've looked all over it and can't fine it. Thanks
I had the opposite problem with a 2002 ex v6 where the A/C worked only at full cold. It turned out to be the external air temperature sensor located in front of the radiator
I have a 2001 Accord LX that has about 25,000 miles on it but it's almost 4 years old. I wanted to take it in for the 30K mile maintenance - should I get this done at the Honda dealership and pay twice as much, or go with an independent shop (where I'll pay much less but may have less peace of mind)? Admittedly I know next to nothing about cars and don't really know if the 30K maintenance tasks require a visit to the dealership. Thanks!
For peace of mind you may want to have the Honda dealership look over all systems at the 30,000 mile mark. HOWEVER, review the Honda maintenance schedule in your Owner's Manual. Write down the SPECIFIC manufacturer recommendations for the 30,000 mile service, bring your list to the dealership's service advisor and instruct them to perform ONLY those factory-recommended tasks.
Do not allow yourself to be sold unnecessary additional services such as oil & fuel additives, engine or transmission flushes, etc. These only represent additional dealer markup items.
My 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 coupe just had the timing belt and spark plugs replaced at 111,000 miles. Since then I've noticed that my low fuel light comes on between 310-315 miles on a tank of gas rather than the previous 330-340 miles on a tank of gas (mixed driving conditions - some city, some highway). What could be causing this? It started as soon as this work was done (by Honda service).
A transmission flush is a good idea. Most manufactuers do not specify correct transmission service intervals, and Honda transmissions need all the extra attention they can get. 30K is about right for a flush.
Over the weekend, I plugged something into the cigarette lighter/adapters and unfortunately for me, the metal piece got stuck inside. (When I went to pull it out, the cord broke and left the little metal piece still attached to the inside). Sorry if I'm not making sense, but I don't know how to better phrase this.
It wasn't much of a concern, cause there are multiple outlets in the car. But I noticed that the other one wasn't working anymore.
What could you recommend for me to do to help fix this?
I have a '99 Honda Accord Coupe V6 w/ 160,000 miles. Recently, my car has had some problem starting up; it turns over but it doesn't start. This happens sporadically.
My car eventually starts up again (about an hour later). What could the problem be?
I saw a response to dnguyen65's original message about this Honda Accord cruise control problem, suggesting to lift the brake pedal as you push the SET button. The green light stays on and the cruise engages. This suggests a brake-switch adjustment problem, which should be easy to fix (but for how much, if you let the dealer fix it).
So here's a 2-1/2-year old Accord, now with a mulfunctioning cruise control, weakling engine that hesitates and vibrates as it struggles to accelerate on a slightly hilly terrrain, crappy clutch, horsey brake engines when you release your foot from the gas pedal (say when you attempt to brake, but then decide not to and have to step on the gas again), and more.
To all who own a 6 speed manual trans coupe. I own a 2004 and the trans leaks. It leaks from two small vent holes that are too low. The oil shows up between the engine and the tranny. There is a plastic cover at this location. The dealership did not want to repair it. American Honda customer service did not want to repair it, they actually said it is normal. I filled with the BBB auto line and as of a couple weeks ago, American Honda owes me a new car or must buy it back. Anyone else have this problem? Just want to know if anyone else has this problem. I have digital pics if anyone wants to see it.
I wonder how detailed the Honda repair manuals are, and if they have detailed schematics of Navi and Non-Navi Accord wiring harnesses? With that information, you could compare the two to see what differences there are. It may go a long ways in trying to understand what you need to make everything work.
Just a suggestion.
Good luck in your upgrade, sounds like you have an interesting challenge ahead of you.
The metal piece shorted out your 12V outlet and caused the fuse to blow. You'll need to get that piece out first and then replace the fuse. Once you have a new fuse the other outlets will work also.
Biker, who thinks that pulling anything out of a 12V adapter by the cord is bad idea. :shades:
I recently purchased a new Accord LX, with 5 speed automatic transmission. I love the car, but whenever I am driving over 45 mph and have my foot on the accelerator I can hear an annoying, high pitched whine, almost like a cricket, coming from the right side of the engine. Seems to go away at speeds above 75. Maybe that is just due to competing road noise at top speeds.
My dealer says Accords make this sound and there is nothing they can do. I find the whine irritating and don't think a new Honda Accord should sound that way.
I'd venture to guess that in most instances the rebuilt unit will be in better shape overall than any unit that needs at least have the boots replaced. You don't want to rebuild the same shaft you took off the car. I assume when you get a rebuilt unit, it's fairly close to new in terms of the metal tolerances of not only the joints but also of the gear teeth at both ends.
If only the boots are the problem, you can replace just them and not the whole shaft.
Shaft/boot problems should be pretty obvious anytime one changes the oil on the car - unless it's a RWD car. :shades:
What does it mean when the green dot light next to the "D" on the tachometer blinks while the car is diving whether it is in D mode or D3 mode or R mode or whatever. The light won't blink as soon as one starts the car but it may start blinking after driving 5 miles or so.
For what it's worth -- I had a high pitched whine at 45 mph in my 04 LX 4 cyl. automatic that was so bad by about 4,000 miles that my dealer replaced the transmission. The service manager drove the car and said the noise was not normal. It was better for awhile, but now, at 13,000 miles, it's back, along with a kind of metallic grating/whiring noise at higher speeds. There is a Honda article about AT Transmission Whine that my service manager showed me back then (last year).
I haven't asked for any more service on this situation since the tranny replacement, but am going to bring it up again tomorrow when I take it in for routine service. I'll let you know what they tell me. I'm beginning to think this kind of noise is normal with Honda, which, if true, would be a very sad comment on their engineering expertise.
About 2 years ago while driving with my family - all of a sudden both the tachometer & speedometer started expressing themselves by bouncing sporadically all over the place. It didn't affect the drive at all. Parked at our destination. A few hours later - battery dead. Honda auto-dealership put a new alternator in and it seemed to fix the problem.
But ever since that episode, mostly on hwy driving over 1 hour, the tachometer (only) will jump all over the place. Sometimes with no measureable effect on driving, but on 3 occasions the dancing tachometer has spurned a "pulsating' engine feel. I've still got power and am able to drive ok, but there is a pusling of minor loss of power. It nearly gave my wife an ulcer on our anniversary down in Monterey CA. I've taken it to a shop (not the original dealership) that claimed he knew the problem existed within the distributor cap. I paid him $90.00 to do whatever it is he did. Great. 2 weeks later - dancing again - very sporadically. I've only experienced it once since.
So now it's almost like an anxiety attack - the fear of the fear of the event maybe happening. Will this little 'hard to diagnose' problem cause a major breakdown soon? The honda dealership's advice was..."well, when it happens next time, just bring 'er in and we'll have a tech go on a drive with you so they can experience it."
My mechanic who tried to fix said he'd checked in with this Honda experts, but hadn't got any word back yet. And still haven't heard squat from him - he happens to have the customer service skills of a drugged sloth. So - this being my very first post...and yes, long I know - any help out there...? I'd love to be able to go to this mechanic with some actual info to help fix this occasional 'ghost in the machine' glitch.
The only concern I have with rebuilt "anything" is rebuilts are remanufactured from failed components. It's up to the rebuilder in selecting what components are useable, and what are totally junk and must be scrapped. If they want to cut corners, they can use borderline components in their rebuilds. It pays to buy good rebuilt parts if thats what your selecting.
The advantage of rebuilding and reusing the same shaft that came off of the car would be the knowledge of the condition of the shaft before it was removed off the car. If the boots were found to have recently cracked, (due to regular inspections between oil changes) and there is still grease in them, then they may be worth rebuilding. I have rebuilt numerous shafts over the years, and as long as the shafts were in good condition. they were just fine until the boots failed again.
BTW, the "gears" you mention at each end are not really gears. They are splines that match the splines at the hub and at the trans. Typically there isn't wear in the splines.
Hi, I just purchased a 2005 honda accord v6 and I am getting that thumping noise in the gas pedal. You have described the problem to a t. I noticed that you took the car to the dealer and they adjusted something but it did not work. Did you ever go back with the car and let them check it again? I am curious to know what they had to say. Did you have to leave the car and did it make the thump for them to hear? We called the dealer and they claim they have never heard of this problem. Please get back to me if you can. Thanks Joyce
A cross-section of your tank would reveal that it is shaped as an inverted trapezoid. Meaning the bottom of the tank is smaller than the top - this is why you notice "accelerated fuel loss" as the 2nd half of the tank goes by.
I have 1990 honda accord automatic transmission, i have had problems with rough idling for some time, the check engine light came on the other day it was a code 7 TPS throttle postion sensor, come to find out the sensor is made on throttle body an you have to buy the whole body which is $400.00 new, are a used one for $70.00 with a 90 day warranty, my question? how reliable is check engine lights codes, do you think this would take care of my problem?
This is incorrect, Mrbill. When half shafts are rebuilt, balls, cages, spline ends and boots are all replaced if necessary, as well as other pieces. You wouldn't replace a half shaft unless the joint itself was sufficiently worn out, so repacking it with grease and re-booting it would not solve the problem. Most half shafts are sold with a 12mo/12k warranty so a problematic half-shaft would exhibit issues long before then. As an exclusive user of rebuilt half shafts for the last 15+ years, I have never had one wear out in less than 45k... well worth the money.
My transmission was replaced exactly one year ago -- July 2004. At the time, the service manager did a search on his computer among files that I took were unique to Honda service departments. He showed me the article on his screen and I remember the title as something like AT Whine. I recall the first part telling service reps to be sure it wasn't tire noise or road noise the customer was hearing. Of course, mine wasn't -- you could play the noise like a violin by gently modulating the pedal at 45 mph.
I asked him to send me the article, but I don't seem to have it. I hesitate to call it a technical service bulletin, or whatever they call those things -- it seemed more like a backgrounder. I don't even recall what the fix was supposed to be. As I said, they put a replacement tranny in my car. Perhaps your service manager could find the same article. Sorry I can't be more informative about it. But the existence of the article told me I wasn't the first one to bring this matter up.
In addition to the warning brake light check circuit, only two signals (brake fluid level & parking brake switch) can trigger the warning light. Here is what you can do to test the warning check circuit. 1. Remove fuse #10 (7.5A) under the dash fuse box. 2. Put the ignition switch to Start. No need to start the engine. 3a. If the warning brake light is off, it means the check circuit failed. It's probably the transistor blew and kept the warning light on. 3b. If the warning brake light is still on, it means the check circuit is OK. So either the fluid level float in the reservoir doesn't move up or the parking brake switch fails. I would open the brake fluid reservoir cap and check if the float can move up/down freely. Be careful not to contaminate the fluid. It's part #10 in the diagram. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Acco- rd&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=4DR+LXI&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=MASTER+CYLINDER
I own a 2005 V6 Accord EX and am having the same problems with the brakes and hesitation. I find it very frustrating in rush hour traffic but my dealer also said it was normal and wouldn't look into it. I was wondering if it was a V6 problem but it sounds like your 4 cyl is having the same issues.
These "new generation" Accords (03-06) exhibit many undesirable traits that many Accord fanatics in this forum regard as "normal". I have mentioned many of them in my previous posts and wouldn't mention them again.
Like the initial release of computer software applications, where bugs or issues are not uncommon, a car redesign is also bound to introduce design flaws or undesirable traits, which are normally addressed by prompt recalls and TSBs. Unfortunately, many of the undesirable "traits" observed by a few customers (like me) are considered to be "normal", and so they remain unaddressed that way (unless our "smart" Honda engineers are monitoring these Honda forums for feedbacks).
I have test driven the newer models (04, 05, 06 -- I own an 03), and I'm not impressed at all.
It's a shame that you have experienced whatever "problems" with your 2003 Accord. But I can assure czabba, who owns a 2005 vehicle, that I have had absolutely no significant concerns with my 2004 Accord EX V6 Coupe. In fact, the only one that I can think of, was when my overhead sunglass holder door kept springing open. The holder was immediately replaced under warranty.
This is a great car.
There may be certain things that someone coming from another type of vehicle has to acclimate themseves to, such as brake feel, but that's to be expected such cases.
I have 3300 miles on the car now. I am getting used to it more. The brakes are more grabby when there is more humidity out, or it has rained (I live in Florida). After a few stops, they are better. They definitly take some getting used to. What is interesting is that I drive another persons car on occasion (02 Chrysler minivan), and the brakes on that car, which I used to see no problem with, now don't seem all that great to me. I have more positive thoughts about the brakes now, but I feel the design wasn't fine tuned in design under all conditions.
I changed my route to work so I don't end up at a yield and merge, so I don't notice the hesitation much anymore. Have to come to a complete stop. I have also learned not to punch the accelerator in this situation like in my old car when I slow down to 5mph or so from a higher speed and need to accelerate. Even thought I'm getting used to it, the transmission still shouldn't hesitate under this one condition.
I bought the Accord VP as it is a good car for 16K new. For the cost of the EX I would have purchased something else. Like I said, I am picky. Every car I considered and test drove had some concerns. I didn't find a perfect car for under 18K and didn't expect to.
Someone else mentioned gas mileage. I get 18mpg city, and 34hwy. For the 18mpg it takes me 25-30 minutes to drive only 5 miles to work or home again in rush hour traffic. I spend a lot of time stopped and creeping forward. It is also hot and I have the AC on. I can't expect much mileage with that kind of driving. An 03 Civic in the same situation gets 25mpg.
No luck today on my service. My service dept. diagnosed the drivetrain noise as normal. Groan. If these noises are normal for an Accord, then shame on Honda. They make an otherwise very good car sound cheap. Somewhere in the engineering and/or manufacture of my car, quality slipped.
After going through the remanufactured transmission replacement last year, I'm a little worn out with this situation. I may take it back at a later date and go for a drive with the service manager, but not today. Enough is enough. I'm approaching 14,000 miles on the car and have no other important complaints--in fact, I like it a lot in an overall sense. Quality throughout, with this one exception, but it's an important one.
I hope you have better luck with your situation. I'd be very interested to hear what happens.
Anyone here with a late model (2003+) Accord 4 cylinder change their own oil? The reason I ask is, I just did the first oil change on my 05 Accord. The owner's manual says (in two separate places) the oil capacity with filter change is 4.4 quarts. I have added 5 quarts now, and it is just over the "add" mark on the dipstick.
I did start the car and let it sit twice, just to see if the oil would drain down and change the dipstick reading, but so far it's the same.
If you do your own oil change, how much do you add?
I have changed the oil on my 04 I4 and didn't see any issues with the oil level. I will be changing soon, so I will make a closer watch over the level.
Could they have installed a wrong dip stick?
Somewhere I recall reading that the engine actually takes more then 5 quarts, but only drains out the 4.4 quarts. Do you use ramps when you drain oil? If so, maybe the angle of the car allows more then the 4.4 quarts that drains out when level.
If you are still having problems, let me know. I can measure the length of my dip stick for comparison.
I have an '99 accord lx automatic and when I press on the brakes it doesn't let me put the car in reverse so I have to sit there and just keep pushing on the brakes repeatedly before I can finally get into reverse. Any ideas what this could be and if it's an easy fix?
There is an interlock between the brake pedal and the shift linkage, forcing you to apply the brake before shifting. It sounds like it may be out of adjustment, or something is worn.
Check with the service dept at your dealer, they may be able to make a educated guess on what it would cost to readjust. I would not think it would be that much $$
I'm looking to get a 2005 EX coupe. Thinking about getting the red to replace the white LX I have now. (Even though I don't like the shade in the EX as well as the shade of red the DX has.)
I've heard that red paint does not hold up well, especially not garaged in the Florida sun.
I have experienced the worst customer service imaginable on my 2003 Honda Accord EX V6 transmission. I am the original owner with only 25,000 miles on the fully loaded car. As a middle age mother I have "babied" this car. After spending 3 months researching every new car on the market with the highest safety ratings--I choose a fully loaded Honda Accord EX V6 & got every safety option available including side curtain air bags. The transmission failed at 70 mph on a busy interstate 2 days ago with my husband, daughter & myself in the car. We literally went from 70 mph to 20 mph in a matter of seconds as the car skidded a football field in length burning rubber the whole way. We were extremely lucky we were not hit from behind as other cars jack knifed behind us. Honda recalled my car and checked the 2nd gear transmission problem in Dec 04. They found no problems and replaced nothing so I paid no attention. Now 6 months latter with my car 2 1/2 years old and Honda admitting that the transmission has failed, all they will provide me is a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on the re-manufactured transmission which for me will last until the car is 3 1/2 years old. To add insult to injury Honda admits they give customers 3 years or 36,000 miles if the customer "participates" in the repair (meaning a customer pays at least $200). Honda has said they will stand behind the transmission longer than 12 months but won't put anything in writing. As a former victim of a 1991 Chrysler mini van where Chrysler made those same promises but failed to stand behind a failed transmission at 3 months outside the warranty even though the vehicle had been in the shop numerous times for transmission repairs---I don't believe Honda. Does anyone have ideas on what I can do to get Honda to stand behind their transmission problems and give me a decent warranty on the re-man transmission. I have a case # and have spoken with the National Client Rep that refuses to let me speak to her boss. I have spoken to the district service Rep that claims he can't do anything other than what the national rep will do for me, I have called my new car sales person who can't seem to get any action, I have complained to the service dealer where the car is currently parked---It has not been repaired at my request until I get some satisfaction on a decent warranty. I am also concerned with the damage which may have been caused by the abrupt force of the transmission failure. Does anyone have names, addresses or e-mail addresses on Honda execs that I can complain to?
The strangest thing happened to my 04 Accord today. It's a 4 cylinder by the way. It was sitting in the driveway in Park with the engine on. Because it was so hot and I had my cousin waiting in the passenger seat, I left the engine on for the a/c. While I ran into the house, the car started moving forward and wound up rear ending my other car in the garage. Now I have a huge dent in my front fender not to mention some big scratches on the other car.
Has anyone else experienced this before or has heard of such a problem with the Accord or any other car?
Comments
I've got the same problem. My radio display panel's light went out. The dealer told me that I have to replace the whole radio. Did you solve the problem? I mean did you find the bulb anyway or you had to replace the radio. It is stupid for me to spend a couple of hundreds of dollars for the new radio if only the bulb needs to be replaced. Please tell me what did you do.
I purchased a piece of 1/2" grid "hardware cloth" ( available at any Lowes/Home Depot, Menards) cut it to fit behind the opening in the bumper, gave it a coat of black paint, and attached it with 3 black tie wraps. Unless you know what to look for, it appears that it could have come that way from the factory!!
The only hard part was removing the plastic cover to allow access to the back of the bumper.
For me it was a cheap fix that works as well as other add-on available.
Mrbill
I'm not sure what you mean by "have rebuilt shaft installed, then have to rebuild it again." I'm assuming that what that is saying is the shaft was replaced with a rebuilt unit, it failed again, and now it needs rebuilding again?
As long as the broken boots are caught soon enough, the shaft can be rebuilt, if it is run too long with cracked boots, the grease excapes thru the cracks, the joint runs dry, and dirt gets in and makes it worse by adding grit to the joint and grinding metal away. The problem with rebuilding them at the dealer is the labor cost.
Replacement shafts either come as rebuilt units )new boots and grease) or totally new shafts ( joints and boots)
Some of the other features of the nav may not work as an "added in later" system, one being the trip computer.
Since you've double-posted, here's mine.
You've not indicated how old your car is, or whether (if it's older) you know if any part of the fuel system may have been replaced, such as the fuel gauge, fuel tank sending unit, etc. An improper repair could cause such concerns. If it's a new car than you should consult your dealer to have them resolve the issue under warranty.
Your best path is to calculate exactly what your fuel mileage is. After filling your tank, divide the number of gallons of fuel purchased by the number of miles driven since the last fill-up. Do this for three or four tankfulls to average out your miles per gallon (mpg).
You can multipy your average miles per gallon by the number of gallons that your Owner's Manual states that your tank holds. That will tell you the maximum number of miles you can expect to be able to drive between fill-ups. You should also be able to estimate your range at various fuel gauge readings this way.
Thanks
Do not allow yourself to be sold unnecessary additional services such as oil & fuel additives, engine or transmission flushes, etc. These only represent additional dealer markup items.
Over the weekend, I plugged something into the cigarette lighter/adapters and unfortunately for me, the metal piece got stuck inside. (When I went to pull it out, the cord broke and left the little metal piece still attached to the inside). Sorry if I'm not making sense, but I don't know how to better phrase this.
It wasn't much of a concern, cause there are multiple outlets in the car. But I noticed that the other one wasn't working anymore.
What could you recommend for me to do to help fix this?
Thanks everyone.
My car eventually starts up again (about an hour later). What could the problem be?
So here's a 2-1/2-year old Accord, now with a mulfunctioning cruise control, weakling engine that hesitates and vibrates as it struggles to accelerate on a slightly hilly terrrain, crappy clutch, horsey brake engines when you release your foot from the gas pedal (say when you attempt to brake, but then decide not to and have to step on the gas again), and more.
This is a crappy car -- my first and last.
Very disappointed, ramida
Just a suggestion.
Good luck in your upgrade, sounds like you have an interesting challenge ahead of you.
Mrbill
Biker, who thinks that pulling anything out of a 12V adapter by the cord is bad idea. :shades:
My dealer says Accords make this sound and there is nothing they can do. I find the whine irritating and don't think a new Honda Accord should sound that way.
Any idea what this whine is? Any advice?
If only the boots are the problem, you can replace just them and not the whole shaft.
Shaft/boot problems should be pretty obvious anytime one changes the oil on the car - unless it's a RWD car. :shades:
I haven't asked for any more service on this situation since the tranny replacement, but am going to bring it up again tomorrow when I take it in for routine service. I'll let you know what they tell me. I'm beginning to think this kind of noise is normal with Honda, which, if true, would be a very sad comment on their engineering expertise.
But ever since that episode, mostly on hwy driving over 1 hour, the tachometer (only) will jump all over the place. Sometimes with no measureable effect on driving, but on 3 occasions the dancing tachometer has spurned a "pulsating' engine feel. I've still got power and am able to drive ok, but there is a pusling of minor loss of power. It nearly gave my wife an ulcer on our anniversary down in Monterey CA. I've taken it to a shop (not the original dealership) that claimed he knew the problem existed within the distributor cap. I paid him $90.00 to do whatever it is he did. Great. 2 weeks later - dancing again - very sporadically. I've only experienced it once since.
So now it's almost like an anxiety attack - the fear of the fear of the event maybe happening. Will this little 'hard to diagnose' problem cause a major breakdown soon? The honda dealership's advice was..."well, when it happens next time, just bring 'er in and we'll have a tech go on a drive with you so they can experience it."
My mechanic who tried to fix said he'd checked in with this Honda experts, but hadn't got any word back yet. And still haven't heard squat from him - he happens to have the customer service skills of a drugged sloth. So - this being my very first post...and yes, long I know - any help out there...? I'd love to be able to go to this mechanic with some actual info to help fix this occasional 'ghost in the machine' glitch.
The advantage of rebuilding and reusing the same shaft that came off of the car would be the knowledge of the condition of the shaft before it was removed off the car. If the boots were found to have recently cracked, (due to regular inspections between oil changes) and there is still grease in them, then they may be worth rebuilding. I have rebuilt numerous shafts over the years, and as long as the shafts were in good condition. they were just fine until the boots failed again.
BTW, the "gears" you mention at each end are not really gears. They are splines that match the splines at the hub and at the trans. Typically there isn't wear in the splines.
Mrbill
I just purchased a 2005 honda accord v6 and I am getting that thumping noise in the gas pedal. You have described the problem to a t. I noticed that you took the car to the dealer and they adjusted something but it did not work. Did you ever go back with the car and let them check it again? I am curious to know what they had to say. Did you have to leave the car and did it make the thump for them to hear? We called the dealer and they claim they have never heard of this problem. Please get back to me if you can. Thanks Joyce
I asked him to send me the article, but I don't seem to have it. I hesitate to call it a technical service bulletin, or whatever they call those things -- it seemed more like a backgrounder. I don't even recall what the fix was supposed to be. As I said, they put a replacement tranny in my car. Perhaps your service manager could find the same article. Sorry I can't be more informative about it. But the existence of the article told me I wasn't the first one to bring this matter up.
But i checked the the brake fluid level, the light bulbs
but my lamp brake is still on.
What else can i do?
level & parking brake switch) can trigger the warning light.
Here is what you can do to test the warning check circuit.
1. Remove fuse #10 (7.5A) under the dash fuse box.
2. Put the ignition switch to Start. No need to start the engine.
3a. If the warning brake light is off, it means the check circuit failed. It's probably the transistor blew and kept the warning light on.
3b. If the warning brake light is still on, it means the check circuit is OK. So either
the fluid level float in the reservoir doesn't move up or the parking brake switch fails.
I would open the brake fluid reservoir cap and check if the float can move up/down freely. Be careful not to contaminate the fluid.
It's part #10 in the diagram.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Acco- rd&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=4DR+LXI&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=MASTER+CYLINDER
I own a 2005 V6 Accord EX and am having the same problems with the brakes and hesitation. I find it very frustrating in rush hour traffic but my dealer also said it was normal and wouldn't look into it. I was wondering if it was a V6 problem but it sounds like your 4 cyl is having the same issues.
Like the initial release of computer software applications, where bugs or issues are not uncommon, a car redesign is also bound to introduce design flaws or undesirable traits, which are normally addressed by prompt recalls and TSBs. Unfortunately, many of the undesirable "traits" observed by a few customers (like me) are considered to be "normal", and so they remain unaddressed that way (unless our "smart" Honda engineers are monitoring these Honda forums for feedbacks).
I have test driven the newer models (04, 05, 06 -- I own an 03), and I'm not impressed at all.
Very disappointed,
ramida (owner of a crappy Accord)
Did you say you test drove the 06 Accord? :confuse:
It's a shame that you have experienced whatever "problems" with your 2003 Accord. But I can assure czabba, who owns a 2005 vehicle, that I have had absolutely no significant concerns with my 2004 Accord EX V6 Coupe. In fact, the only one that I can think of, was when my overhead sunglass holder door kept springing open. The holder was immediately replaced under warranty.
This is a great car.
There may be certain things that someone coming from another type of vehicle has to acclimate themseves to, such as brake feel, but that's to be expected such cases.
I changed my route to work so I don't end up at a yield and merge, so I don't notice the hesitation much anymore. Have to come to a complete stop. I have also learned not to punch the accelerator in this situation like in my old car when I slow down to 5mph or so from a higher speed and need to accelerate. Even thought I'm getting used to it, the transmission still shouldn't hesitate under this one condition.
I bought the Accord VP as it is a good car for 16K new. For the cost of the EX I would have purchased something else. Like I said, I am picky. Every car I considered and test drove had some concerns. I didn't find a perfect car for under 18K and didn't expect to.
Someone else mentioned gas mileage. I get 18mpg city, and 34hwy. For the 18mpg it takes me 25-30 minutes to drive only 5 miles to work or home again in rush hour traffic. I spend a lot of time stopped and creeping forward. It is also hot and I have the AC on. I can't expect much mileage with that kind of driving. An 03 Civic in the same situation gets 25mpg.
After going through the remanufactured transmission replacement last year, I'm a little worn out with this situation. I may take it back at a later date and go for a drive with the service manager, but not today. Enough is enough. I'm approaching 14,000 miles on the car and have no other important complaints--in fact, I like it a lot in an overall sense. Quality throughout, with this one exception, but it's an important one.
I hope you have better luck with your situation. I'd be very interested to hear what happens.
I did start the car and let it sit twice, just to see if the oil would drain down and change the dipstick reading, but so far it's the same.
If you do your own oil change, how much do you add?
Dave
Could they have installed a wrong dip stick?
Somewhere I recall reading that the engine actually takes more then 5 quarts, but only drains out the 4.4 quarts. Do you use ramps when you drain oil? If so, maybe the angle of the car allows more then the 4.4 quarts that drains out when level.
If you are still having problems, let me know. I can measure the length of my dip stick for comparison.
Mrbill
Check with the service dept at your dealer, they may be able to make a educated guess on what it would cost to readjust. I would not think it would be that much $$
mrbill
Thinking about getting the red to replace the white LX I have now.
(Even though I don't like the shade in the EX as well as the shade of red the DX has.)
I've heard that red paint does not hold up well, especially not garaged in the Florida sun.
Truth or fiction?
Thanks,
S
Has anyone else experienced this before or has heard of such a problem with the Accord or any other car?