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Comments
Car runs fine-assume this is just another hyper sensitive ECM thingy. Hope this info saves somebody some time and money.
Ultimately, the dealer is going to have to call in some help from Honda to have a look at these cars - I doubt the skills and diagnostic tools of the dealer techs are up to this level of problem solving. I would start lobbying now for the dealer [s] to call for help.
If I buy an Accord (either 4 or 6 cyl.) that has 30-36K miles on it what maintenance will I need to do in the next year other than oil changes and tire rotations?
Thanks for the help.
As blume1 stated, there is a TSB for the problem you are experiencing. I had the same problem.
The bulletin is #00-059.
Honda calls it "Thump at Cold Start."
My dealer was kind enough to fax the TSB to me so I would not have to take it in. It's just a matter of cutting and re-routing some vacuum hoses.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for your response. I am having nothing but problems with this car. I washed it the other day and right after that little purple spots began to appear on the paint. I'm waiting on a Honda Rep. to take a look at it. I was told by someone else that it's a defect in the paint. Do you know if this is true and if so what is going to happen?
Thanks again for your help.
I don't trust the Dealership to be straight with me. Thanks!
And, you SHOULD trust your dealer to be straight with you. His job is to keep you happy. Give him a chance to do the right thing.
Of course, some dealers will be better at this than others.
You earlier answered my question about unplugging a Power Antenna on a 94 Accord 4 Door Sedan.
I am having a little trouble finding the power plug. I peeled off the carpeting, on the left side
of the trunk. There were a few connectors for what I am assuming are the lights. (Multi-colured
wires heading into a transparent plastic box). Since I am not that mechanically
inclined I decided to leave it alone. Is the power antenna, power connector easy to spot?
Is it at the base of the antenna? Things are a little tight down there. I asked a service
advisor at my dealership and he said it CANNOT be done! He recommended me buy a
new antenna! I would be happy just to discconect the motor of the antenna and leave it up.
I find the power antenna annoying anyway.
Thanks!
Also, I'm on my second hydraulic clutch linkage, which is also defective; the 3rd assembly is waiting at the dealer. I've also had other problems with my 2001 Accord EX. The dealer hinted that I should avoid a 5-speed trans. In fact, a 2001 Accord with auto. trans. I had as a loaner car worked well. Possibly the 5-speed makes to much of a demand on the ULEV-calibrated engine?
Needless to say, I'm now VERY fed up with this car and Honda. I hope the forthcoming Altima is all that it appears to be. If so, Honda will have lost a "life-long" customer this fall.
In the mean time, any ideas you have are welcome--I have to go back to my dealer to get the 3rd hydraulic clutch assembly installed.
And, is the dealer and his team of technicians saying they can't detect a problem or they saying they don't know how to fix it?
Also, Auburn, have you heard of this clutch problem? I haven't.
For those of you in Toledo, Ohio stay away from
BROWN HONDA. My sister in law was taken for
a very expensive ride. She was told the car she was buying was "certified used" later was called from the dealership and told it was NOT and had to bring it back in for inspection, and would not offer a loaner. After she got upset with them they
just happened to find her a loaner. 6000 miles after the car was "certified" the service light came on and she took it in to Brown and was told the radiator fluid was bad and needed replaced, after they performed an oil change and coolant change the bill came to over $275.00! all this after it had just been "certified" Just another dealer taking advantage of women.
NOW WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HONDA DEALERS MISTER
And, unless your dealer has let you down in the past, you should expect them to do right by you instead of going in with a negitive attitude.
Your car is under warranty and should be fixed to your complete satisfaction.
I do hope all works out well for you.
The connector should be right near and or on the power antenna motor. Located in the left rear quarter area just behind the wheel tub. I will try and look at one when I see one. Once disconected it may want to and or go down on its own but if you grab it with something and pull it back up it will stay. You could also take plyers and kink it at the bottom after fully up so that it cant go down. Now of course this will cause a noise when turn on and off but just for like 5 secs each way..Good luck
m9431
Manual shifts are tuff for things like these. Sometimes it comes down to a persons driving habits. I may drive it and say it is great and no problems while another tech may feel the problem. Have they ever verified the problem with you ? Do they feel that you are in too high of a gear for accel? Or do they agree you have a problem and just don't know what it is ? I havent had any complaints even close to what you are saying but I will look on our data base and on ISIS and see if I can see anything. In the mean time if you can verify the problem for them maybe they would be willing to take a snap shot with the scanner and send the results to tech line for diag. Good luck
I'm also wondering what effect the ULEV system has on things. Anyone have any insight as to what difference ULEV might make (vs the standard setup)? Is ULEV/5 sp a bad combination for some reason?
Thanks for any insights
ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!!
Much Thanks
If the problem is there when turning off your A/C then I would think that maybe your base idle is messed up. If it is when turning it on then the idle up is going bad most likely.Is your car an LX or LXI ?
elgriton
The heat makes the soldered joints seperate and create an open. Once it cools down just a bit in the car(ex. door open or window open)The joint makes contact again and car starts.This can happen in the winter with direct sunlight but very rare and will not happen at night.As far as prices I am not for sure but I would say the part is around 50 - 60 dollars.
and I'm hoping you can help.
When I'm driving on the highway, I get a tapping at my feet and mostly it comes from the gas pedal or whatever is under the floorboard in this area. It seems to increase on turns anyone have any answers? I'm dealing with a Dealership that will always say there is nothing wrong before they even check. Thanks
no noise and to produce it, I only have to drive at highway speeds. I have found that on curves it seems to be more when I turn the steering wheel towards the right than left, but it happens even when going staight.
The dealer ran diagnostics and put about 1000 miles on it trying to find the problem. The dealer general manager offered to buy the car back at wholesale and take it to the auto auction as they don't want it on their lot, and then they'll sell me another. Of course I'll lose lotsa $ on that deal. What does that say about the dealer's confidence in this Honda?
The clutch linkage problem is a known problem with a service bulletin--this problem happens only in hot weather. The dealer called and has the parts for the clutch linkage replacement for the THIRD time.
Last weekend I found another problem in that water leaked in and flooded the rear floor! I could not find the source as all windows, doors, and roof were closed. Wow--do I really want another Honda???
Any more ideas?
Thanks for everyone's input. If anyone would have mentioned that I'd be this unhappy with a new Honda Accord, I'd have never believed them. What's worse is Honda's unwillingness to help a long-time Honda customer.
You may just be feeling the suspension/road surface being transmitted in to the body, or posible something hitting or rubbing against something under the hood. See if you can locate anything out of place under the hood. I will do a info search but have not heard of anything close to what you are describing. But lets see. Have you ask your dealer about it yet?
m9431
What did you mean by they said you caused it ? What were you doing wrong in their opinion ? The close to stall soon after start up is a normal flaw but should only happen one time within 5 to 10 min after first start of day. Sounds as if it maybe a ULEV related issue but a hard one to trace. The only thing I can think of is to unplug a computer sensor(such as the intake air sensor or tw sensor) and cause a check engine light. This sets the computer to a set value, usally on the rich side. Drive it and see if you can still make it happen.Let us know the result. Now please note that this light takes a while to reset on its own so you may have to go in and have the dealer reset the computer. Sometimes disconnecting the battery works but then you have to know your radio code. However this does not always work so if you need to go to the dealer tell them the light is on but don't mention that you caused it.
Your explanation and suggestion makes much sense. I'm not familiar with the exact locations of these sensors; I do see how to disconnect. Can you tell me the locations of them so I can identify both the intake and tw sensor then try your suggestion?
I don't completetly understand how the IAT sensor works, but if it's falsely reading too high, wouldn't that indicate that it's defective? If it's reading 130 and the temp is actually lower than that, wouldn't that falsely signal the need for less fuel, even though it actually needs more because the temp is lower than what it's reading???? Could this cause the skipping/missing that I feel at these RPMs? HELP!!!!!!!!!
P.S. Just replaced myself half of the A/C system (parts and instructions from ackits.com (a year warranty) - 20 minutes of work, total costs $ 200 - cheapest I got from any shop was $ 650, very helphul was messageboard www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/index.htm - highly recommend to those in need.)
Some other long-term symptoms: besides hesitation, "power surges," just the opposite of hesitation, may be felt on occasion when under acceleration and sometimes when the engine is winding down. This makes driving unpredictable, of course. Low end torque is noticeably worse than the same model with automatic trans. and worse than my '93 4-cylinder 5-speed Accord.
Several visits ago, I asked about timing and learned that it checks out fine, as did the other diagnostics. Leads me back to fuel, and I have to recall the past when I played with air-cooled VW engines and various carburetors' jet sizes, etc. My feeling is that it seems like it's not getting adequate fuel at times. Could still be a bad sensor or ECU, wiring, etc. Just don't know.
With no dealer support and no factory support from Honda, I'm "out in the cold" with this new Accord.
Have you spoken with either the Service Manager or the General Manager of your dealership? Let them know you plan to take the problem up the line to the Zone Office. Time to get on with the process as Honda has outlined it. And make sure you have all your service writeups for a Lemon Law claim, if that becomes necessary.
Did you learn anything along the way that would help? Tools needed, disconnecting hoses ect.
I will check out web sites you listed. Did it really only take 20 minutes?
Thanks Again!
Chip
With a low battery condition and or a dead battery the SRS unit will code up a unit failure code. Have it cleared and see if it comes back on. If so you will need a new unit.
M9431
Disconnecting the battery for more than 30 sec. will sometimes clear the light. You should go to a new dealer and start fresh with them and see what they will do.Sounds as if you could need a new ECU but it is hard to say on the net without looking at the car..