Have a 97 Accord I4 auto w 114K. Check engine light started coming on with a visual code 90. That is emissions evaporative control system. Have finally figured out-it happens the day after I fill the tank-no other time. Take out the fuse to the ECM, reset the light and then when I refuel the tank-on it comes again the next day.
Car runs fine-assume this is just another hyper sensitive ECM thingy. Hope this info saves somebody some time and money.
It is my personal, untrained but very experienced, opinion that the symptoms being described with the V6s having the stumbles at moderate speeds and rpm are indeed probably electronic in nature, specifically some combination of the ECM and the drivetrain computer software. It's just an educated guess, but I would not be surprised to learn that the torque converter is being told [erroneously by the drivetrain software] to repeatedly lock and unlock in rapid succession. This is one way [but certainly not the only way] that the symptoms described could happen - it would also explain why replacing the torque converter itself would not cure the problem.
Ultimately, the dealer is going to have to call in some help from Honda to have a look at these cars - I doubt the skills and diagnostic tools of the dealer techs are up to this level of problem solving. I would start lobbying now for the dealer [s] to call for help.
I currently own a 97 Maxima and am considering a 98 or 99 Accord for my next buy. Average miles is 35K per year. For the Maxima I put on a new set of tires at about 55K. Otherwise it's just oil changes and tire rotations.
If I buy an Accord (either 4 or 6 cyl.) that has 30-36K miles on it what maintenance will I need to do in the next year other than oil changes and tire rotations?
Make sure the car you purchase has had the 30K maintenance done. It is quite expensive. Next semi-major maintenance interval is at 45K and then another major at 60K (same as 30K). Timing belt/water pump is to be replaced at 90K. That one will also cost you some bucks. Otherwise, basically it is oil changes, tire rotations and brake and slide service.
Why do you say it's expensive? Are you going by what a dealer says to have done or by the owner's manual? I don't see any reason why it should be that much if using the owner's manual as the guideline. The only out of the ordinary things are air cleaner replacement and a/c filter replacement. Replacing that a/c filter will probably run over $100, but one of the Honda dealers I deal with says it really isn't necessary to replace so soon unless driving in really dusty conditions on a regular basis or you have allergy problems. My selling dealer wants almost $400 for 30k service, but includes all kinds of things the owners manual doesn't suggest. Replace spark plugs, trans fluid, brake fluid, coolant but doesn't include the one thing the manual suggests-replacing the a/c filter. Something wrong with this picture.
I purchased a 01 accord ex 4 cyl with leather auto transmition. I noticed that the 00 accords mostly v-6 have problems with the transmitions. Are the v-6 transmitions differant then the 4 cyl trans. So where the 00 the "bad" year for the transmitions or was it just on the v-6's. With only 150 miles on the car I noticed a problem. When starting the car after its been off for a while it makes a weird sound ( thump , loud deep click , or something hitting something , the car jumps a tiny bit durning that ) but If I start the car and then turn it off and wai a minute and start it again it does not make the noise anymore. I hope the dealer wont give me hard time about the problem because it is the second honda I purchased from them within the past 3 years.
I have a '99 accord 4cyl with 27500 miles on it. On the last oil change (couple of days ago) the service manager informed my wife that the transmission was leaking and needed a new seal. This will be the forth one. He also mentioned a possible repair to the torque converter for excess pressure. Anybody ever heard of this on an Accord. Also the driver side power window switch has been acting up lately. These problems have me seriously questioning Honda's quality. Thanks
The "thump" you describe on your 4cyl auto is addressed in a honda TSB . I had my new 2001 fixed a couple of weeks ago and now it sounds like I am starting a totally different car. If you scroll back in this topic, you will find the number -- someone gave it to me and My dealer happily(seriously) fixed mine. It is a problem with the rear motor mount not getting the air? from the vaccum (sp? ) pump fast enough on colder starts. The only negative from this problem seem s to be that this sounds like a problem that may have become worse with age!!! I kept my last honda product (acura integra) for 11 years, and if something like this had gone on unattended for 11 years --- how bad would it have it gotten?????!!! I am thoroughly pissed at the auto industry (it's not just Honda-- they all do it) for not freely publishing these TSB's . Had it not been for me looking on this site- on the Net -- I would not have known about the "KNOWN" problem!@!??
Hi, As blume1 stated, there is a TSB for the problem you are experiencing. I had the same problem.
The bulletin is #00-059.
Honda calls it "Thump at Cold Start." My dealer was kind enough to fax the TSB to me so I would not have to take it in. It's just a matter of cutting and re-routing some vacuum hoses. Hope this helps.
before reading the replys this morning I called the dealer. He gave me a lot of bs saying that that is normal . Something that the ABS pump has to pump fluid radpily durning start up therfore making a thump sound. I did not want to deal with tha bs so I got here read the replys (THANX FOR THE BULLETING NR) and now its time to call the dealer again.
Hi! I have a 2001 Accord with the 2.3. I am interested in changing my own oil. I am planning to use Mobil 1 5w-30 and honda filters and new crush washers. Is the filter hard to get to? Haven't poked around down there yet. Any special tricks? Thanks!
ISellHondas, Thanks for your response. I am having nothing but problems with this car. I washed it the other day and right after that little purple spots began to appear on the paint. I'm waiting on a Honda Rep. to take a look at it. I was told by someone else that it's a defect in the paint. Do you know if this is true and if so what is going to happen? Thanks again for your help.
When I'm driving on the highway, I get a tapping at my feet and mostly from the gas pedal. It seems to increase on turns anyone have any answers? I don't trust the Dealership to be straight with me. Thanks!
Hi Again... You earlier answered my question about unplugging a Power Antenna on a 94 Accord 4 Door Sedan.
I am having a little trouble finding the power plug. I peeled off the carpeting, on the left side of the trunk. There were a few connectors for what I am assuming are the lights. (Multi-colured wires heading into a transparent plastic box). Since I am not that mechanically inclined I decided to leave it alone. Is the power antenna, power connector easy to spot?
Is it at the base of the antenna? Things are a little tight down there. I asked a service advisor at my dealership and he said it CANNOT be done! He recommended me buy a new antenna! I would be happy just to discconect the motor of the antenna and leave it up.
Thanks for your earlier reply. My dealer involved the Honda tech team and found nothing wrong, after being returned 5 times. Yet, the engine often stumbles off the line and may even stall. Problem is usually most severe between 1500 and 2300 RPM, but RPMs above 4k are fine. Can be felt under light or heavy acceleration and sometimes just cruising. The dealer won't replace anything as this constitutes a "repair attempt" which could--and at this point should--trigger the Lemon Law. Honda's rep tells me to trade the car in and buy another(!) and they'll give me a small rebate. Of course I lose $ and the next guy gets the problem. Incompetent technical support and poor customer service. Do I really want another Honda after this?
My dealer has given up on the problem telling me there's nothing more he can do. Having worked on engines many years ago, the problem feels like the engine is "fuel-starved" at low RPMs or maybe like timing is severely retarded.
Also, I'm on my second hydraulic clutch linkage, which is also defective; the 3rd assembly is waiting at the dealer. I've also had other problems with my 2001 Accord EX. The dealer hinted that I should avoid a 5-speed trans. In fact, a 2001 Accord with auto. trans. I had as a loaner car worked well. Possibly the 5-speed makes to much of a demand on the ULEV-calibrated engine?
Needless to say, I'm now VERY fed up with this car and Honda. I hope the forthcoming Altima is all that it appears to be. If so, Honda will have lost a "life-long" customer this fall.
In the mean time, any ideas you have are welcome--I have to go back to my dealer to get the 3rd hydraulic clutch assembly installed.
Tell me why I SHOULD trust the dealer-- because you work at one? Your answer about the tapping is definitely in POOR TASTE. It's a great feeling laying out all this money for a major headache and then to have a smart as- answer from you really does not help the situation
DEALERS? DEALERS? YOU WANT A STORY HERE IT IS For those of you in Toledo, Ohio stay away from BROWN HONDA. My sister in law was taken for a very expensive ride. She was told the car she was buying was "certified used" later was called from the dealership and told it was NOT and had to bring it back in for inspection, and would not offer a loaner. After she got upset with them they just happened to find her a loaner. 6000 miles after the car was "certified" the service light came on and she took it in to Brown and was told the radiator fluid was bad and needed replaced, after they performed an oil change and coolant change the bill came to over $275.00! all this after it had just been "certified" Just another dealer taking advantage of women. NOW WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HONDA DEALERS MISTER
mack20 The connector should be right near and or on the power antenna motor. Located in the left rear quarter area just behind the wheel tub. I will try and look at one when I see one. Once disconected it may want to and or go down on its own but if you grab it with something and pull it back up it will stay. You could also take plyers and kink it at the bottom after fully up so that it cant go down. Now of course this will cause a noise when turn on and off but just for like 5 secs each way..Good luck
m9431 Manual shifts are tuff for things like these. Sometimes it comes down to a persons driving habits. I may drive it and say it is great and no problems while another tech may feel the problem. Have they ever verified the problem with you ? Do they feel that you are in too high of a gear for accel? Or do they agree you have a problem and just don't know what it is ? I havent had any complaints even close to what you are saying but I will look on our data base and on ISIS and see if I can see anything. In the mean time if you can verify the problem for them maybe they would be willing to take a snap shot with the scanner and send the results to tech line for diag. Good luck
I have a new '01 LX 5 speed (800 miles). Right from the beginning I noticed some hesitation, usually just after shifting to second gear (2000-2500 rpm). I'm still trying to get a handle on it, but it seems to occur more when the engine is first started and under stress (hills and/or AC on). It does seem to be getting better (breakin?), so I haven't called the dealer. I also haven't driven it "hard" yet, as I want to take it easy during breakin. Maybe I just need to rev it higher to avoid the weak output at 2000 rpm.
I'm also wondering what effect the ULEV system has on things. Anyone have any insight as to what difference ULEV might make (vs the standard setup)? Is ULEV/5 sp a bad combination for some reason?
Honda's approach to ULEV really shouldn't result in any driveability problems whatsoever, and in fact in the cars I've driven, I've been unable to discern any difference between these and the very slightly more powerful LEV engines. I think that as the engine gets broken in [and keep in mind this will not happen fully until upwards of 7000 miles...yes, it takes that long for them to develop full power and best fuel economy] you'll be happier. I should also note that the rev band you're describing is way off the sweet spot for this engine - it likes to be at 3000 and up for best response. Start moving up the rev counter a bit now that you're getting close to 1000 miles...
I've been having start up problems for the past few months. It would happen on occassions when I go somewhere, come back; and it would have a hard time starting. Most of this occurs in hot mid day Florida heat. I'd have to just sit there and wait a few seconds/mins. then try and try again before it would crank up and run smoothly. It never happens during the night time, and it always starts fine in the morning. Sparks are fairly new NGK's.
I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY CAR. WHEN EVER I TURN OFF MY A/C THE IDLE DROPS DOWN SO LOW THEN IT RETURNS TO NORMAL IDLE. THE PROBLEM IS SOMETIMES IT DROPS DOWN SO LOW THAT THE ENGINE DIES BEFORE IT HAS A CHANCE TO RETURN TO NORMAL IDLE. I TRIED INCREASING THE ENGINE IDLE BUT THAT DOESNT HELP. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!!
I also had a whining problem with my 2001 automatic transmission in my EX 4 cylinder coupe. The first day I drove it off the lot I noticed a transmission whine which began at 22mph and continued until at least 40mph where is probably was overshadowed by road noise or became too high pitched for the human ear to hear. Anyway at about 5000 miles, Honda agreed to replace the transmission with a new one. The dealer told me it is really a new one because rebuilts are not available yet for the 2001 transmission. The noise is no longer present at that speed range although I do notice some gear noise that begins at about 40mph now. I guess I'll just keep an ear on it and see if it gets any louder or changes. A mechanical engineer where I work said of the first transmission's noise that it was due to improper gear clearance of the final drive gears.
Camryv6 If the problem is there when turning off your A/C then I would think that maybe your base idle is messed up. If it is when turning it on then the idle up is going bad most likely.Is your car an LX or LXI ?
elgriton The heat makes the soldered joints seperate and create an open. Once it cools down just a bit in the car(ex. door open or window open)The joint makes contact again and car starts.This can happen in the winter with direct sunlight but very rare and will not happen at night.As far as prices I am not for sure but I would say the part is around 50 - 60 dollars.
It seems your have a lot knowledge about Honda's and I'm hoping you can help. When I'm driving on the highway, I get a tapping at my feet and mostly it comes from the gas pedal or whatever is under the floorboard in this area. It seems to increase on turns anyone have any answers? I'm dealing with a Dealership that will always say there is nothing wrong before they even check. Thanks
Can you hear this noise/tap or just feel it ? The only thing that I can think of is that the throttle cable may be hitting or rubbing against something and transmitting the problem into the car. Other than that maybe the exaust is hitting the underneath of your car. What year and model do you have? What can you do to make it happen ?
YES THE IDLE DOES GO DOWN WHEN I TURN OFF THE A/C. AND WHEN I TURN ON THE A/C THE IDLE GOES UP. I TRIED ADJUSTINGING THE IDLE. IS THERE MORE THEN ONE IDLE. I ADJUSTED THE IDLE THAT IS UNDER THE AIR FILTER.DO YOU THINK I CAN FIX IT MY SELF OR BRING THE CAR IN TO GET IT FIXED. AND MY CAR IS A 1989 HONDA ACCORD LX 4CY. THANX FOR YOU HELP
Thanks for replying. I own a 2001 Accord 2dr. Coupe EX. The tapping I only feel at my feet - no noise and to produce it, I only have to drive at highway speeds. I have found that on curves it seems to be more when I turn the steering wheel towards the right than left, but it happens even when going staight.
Thanks for your concern about my engine hesitation with my '01 Accord 4cyl 5-spd. The dealer claims to not find anything wrong. Yet I demonstrated it to their technician only to be accused that I caused it! What's a mystery is that at times the car works well under similar circumstances and driving conditions on the same commute route. At other times the hesitation ranges from slightly perceptible to extreme, where it can actually stall--as has happened to my wife: dangerous. My old '93 4-cyl. 5-spd worked perfectly and was much better at the low RPMs. I don't lug the vehicle around; I've only ever owned 5-spd. vehicles and have never experienced such poor performance until this one. In fact, driving my 5-spd Toyota is like a dream by comparison, as were my older Hondas. The 'stumbling' happens at highway speeds, too, and seems worse when the engine is under load and on hot days. Yes, right after start-up it can be very bad, too, as I believe that someone else noted. I have to wonder about fuel mixture and ULEV tuning, etc. Engine works well above 4k RPM. At lower RPMS, say around 2k, I can often feel 'stumbling' even as I try to maintain speed or slightly accelerate on level ground.
The dealer ran diagnostics and put about 1000 miles on it trying to find the problem. The dealer general manager offered to buy the car back at wholesale and take it to the auto auction as they don't want it on their lot, and then they'll sell me another. Of course I'll lose lotsa $ on that deal. What does that say about the dealer's confidence in this Honda?
The clutch linkage problem is a known problem with a service bulletin--this problem happens only in hot weather. The dealer called and has the parts for the clutch linkage replacement for the THIRD time.
Last weekend I found another problem in that water leaked in and flooded the rear floor! I could not find the source as all windows, doors, and roof were closed. Wow--do I really want another Honda???
Any more ideas?
Thanks for everyone's input. If anyone would have mentioned that I'd be this unhappy with a new Honda Accord, I'd have never believed them. What's worse is Honda's unwillingness to help a long-time Honda customer.
There are 4 adjustments on your car if it is an automatic with a carburator. There is a procedure that needs to be followed and also a check on a related frequency valve.How mechanicly inclined are you? Not extremly hard but can be tricky to get right.Sounds as if the base idle stop adjustment may be too low at this point or the ac idle is too high. Let me know if you want some instruction on the adjustments or if you will just bring it to someone.
teman You may just be feeling the suspension/road surface being transmitted in to the body, or posible something hitting or rubbing against something under the hood. See if you can locate anything out of place under the hood. I will do a info search but have not heard of anything close to what you are describing. But lets see. Have you ask your dealer about it yet?
m9431 What did you mean by they said you caused it ? What were you doing wrong in their opinion ? The close to stall soon after start up is a normal flaw but should only happen one time within 5 to 10 min after first start of day. Sounds as if it maybe a ULEV related issue but a hard one to trace. The only thing I can think of is to unplug a computer sensor(such as the intake air sensor or tw sensor) and cause a check engine light. This sets the computer to a set value, usally on the rich side. Drive it and see if you can still make it happen.Let us know the result. Now please note that this light takes a while to reset on its own so you may have to go in and have the dealer reset the computer. Sometimes disconnecting the battery works but then you have to know your radio code. However this does not always work so if you need to go to the dealer tell them the light is on but don't mention that you caused it.
Thanks again. The dealer tech's write up on the service invoice noted that the problem may have resulted from "driver input." This statement is absurd. I explained to them--that NONE of my past vehicles exhibited this problem. They did not explain what they meant nor did they ever replace any suspect parts. As a technical person myself, I would have been pleased to assist in the diagnosis; they apparently fear triggering the Lemon Law by exceeding 3 "repair attempts" in the process. Note that the problem frequently happens after extended use in hot weather. I appreciate the reason for--and am willing to accept--the 'close-to-stall' after start-up, but the intermittent stumbling/hesitation is not acceptable.
Your explanation and suggestion makes much sense. I'm not familiar with the exact locations of these sensors; I do see how to disconnect. Can you tell me the locations of them so I can identify both the intake and tw sensor then try your suggestion?
My '00 V-6 has been in and out of the shop for a year for skipping/missing around 1750 to 3000 RPM, and after many repair attempts (replaced torque converter, ECM, tranny), I'm wondering if my IAT sensor could be defective? The last time I took it in, I drove the car while the tech had it hooked up to the PGM tester, and the only thing that came back was that the IAT sensor was reading too high. My invoice reads, "IAT sensor retards timing - shuddering/jerking/bucking is normal per tech line". The tech says the temp was up around 130 and that that was too high.
I don't completetly understand how the IAT sensor works, but if it's falsely reading too high, wouldn't that indicate that it's defective? If it's reading 130 and the temp is actually lower than that, wouldn't that falsely signal the need for less fuel, even though it actually needs more because the temp is lower than what it's reading???? Could this cause the skipping/missing that I feel at these RPMs? HELP!!!!!!!!!
You should be able to find the IAT inbetween the air filter and the throttle body. If not then the purge control valve sits in the middle of the intake area infront of the throttle body, you can disconnect it. Or the ECt is usally by the thermostat housing, the TPS(throttle position) is right on the throttle body disconnecting any of these will cause a check engine light and should put you in back up mode with set values instead of making driving corrections. If this improves you driveability problem then you know you are dealing with a lean condition, then it will be a matter of trying to find out if it is normal or not.If it doesnt improve then maybe it is not engine related.
Hi all! My brother was driving a friend's '94 Accord and forgot to turn off the headlights. When they got back to the car about 3 hours later, the car wouldn't start. After the car was jumped, the SRS light went on and has been on ever since. That was 2 weeks ago. Anyone have any ideas on what might be wrong? The owner of the Accord can not seem to find his owner's manual. Could it just be a fuse? Is there anything that I should check? I'd prefer not to bring it to the dealer. Thanks.
once the SRS light comes on, you've gotta get the dealer or some trained mechanic to get that srs light to turn off. i had this problem very recently so trust me on this.
Guys, would anybody know, why suddenly there could be too much play at the steering wheel? At 40, right-left movement of the steering wheel causes the car "dance" (and me sweat). Is it worn out rack and pinion bushings? And would anybody know how to replace them without going to the shop? P.S. Just replaced myself half of the A/C system (parts and instructions from ackits.com (a year warranty) - 20 minutes of work, total costs $ 200 - cheapest I got from any shop was $ 650, very helphul was messageboard www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/index.htm - highly recommend to those in need.)
I temporarily disconnected the sensor near the throttle body which illuminated the check engine light (sensor reconnected). Hesitation is worse and happens at various RPMs under 4k, but once it gets over the hesitation, it seems that more torque is available. You are right--I did this yesterday (after an oil change) and today the light is still on. Maybe it will go out, but if not it has to go back again, anyway, for the third hydraulic clutch assembly.
Some other long-term symptoms: besides hesitation, "power surges," just the opposite of hesitation, may be felt on occasion when under acceleration and sometimes when the engine is winding down. This makes driving unpredictable, of course. Low end torque is noticeably worse than the same model with automatic trans. and worse than my '93 4-cylinder 5-speed Accord.
Several visits ago, I asked about timing and learned that it checks out fine, as did the other diagnostics. Leads me back to fuel, and I have to recall the past when I played with air-cooled VW engines and various carburetors' jet sizes, etc. My feeling is that it seems like it's not getting adequate fuel at times. Could still be a bad sensor or ECU, wiring, etc. Just don't know.
With no dealer support and no factory support from Honda, I'm "out in the cold" with this new Accord.
Get out your warranty book. Go to the inside front cover. Find the Zone Office listed for your part of the country. Follow the directions listed on page 4.
Have you spoken with either the Service Manager or the General Manager of your dealership? Let them know you plan to take the problem up the line to the Zone Office. Time to get on with the process as Honda has outlined it. And make sure you have all your service writeups for a Lemon Law claim, if that becomes necessary.
Thanks for the "P.S." on your A/C upgrade. I own an '89 Accord Coupe Lxi. 204,00 original miles. Great car. But A/C has been getting weak. Been thinking about fixing it. But I new upgrade would run $500-$600. Did you learn anything along the way that would help? Tools needed, disconnecting hoses ect. I will check out web sites you listed. Did it really only take 20 minutes? Thanks Again!
SRS light With a low battery condition and or a dead battery the SRS unit will code up a unit failure code. Have it cleared and see if it comes back on. If so you will need a new unit.
M9431 Disconnecting the battery for more than 30 sec. will sometimes clear the light. You should go to a new dealer and start fresh with them and see what they will do.Sounds as if you could need a new ECU but it is hard to say on the net without looking at the car..
I agree that something in the engine control electronics seems most likely but note that many of your symptoms could result from erratic fuel pressure. Unless Auburn or others with extensive Honda experience disagree, I'd suggest driving the car with a fuel pressure gauge attached - watching for any correlation between pressure and performance.
Comments
Car runs fine-assume this is just another hyper sensitive ECM thingy. Hope this info saves somebody some time and money.
Ultimately, the dealer is going to have to call in some help from Honda to have a look at these cars - I doubt the skills and diagnostic tools of the dealer techs are up to this level of problem solving. I would start lobbying now for the dealer [s] to call for help.
If I buy an Accord (either 4 or 6 cyl.) that has 30-36K miles on it what maintenance will I need to do in the next year other than oil changes and tire rotations?
Thanks for the help.
As blume1 stated, there is a TSB for the problem you are experiencing. I had the same problem.
The bulletin is #00-059.
Honda calls it "Thump at Cold Start."
My dealer was kind enough to fax the TSB to me so I would not have to take it in. It's just a matter of cutting and re-routing some vacuum hoses.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for your response. I am having nothing but problems with this car. I washed it the other day and right after that little purple spots began to appear on the paint. I'm waiting on a Honda Rep. to take a look at it. I was told by someone else that it's a defect in the paint. Do you know if this is true and if so what is going to happen?
Thanks again for your help.
I don't trust the Dealership to be straight with me. Thanks!
And, you SHOULD trust your dealer to be straight with you. His job is to keep you happy. Give him a chance to do the right thing.
Of course, some dealers will be better at this than others.
You earlier answered my question about unplugging a Power Antenna on a 94 Accord 4 Door Sedan.
I am having a little trouble finding the power plug. I peeled off the carpeting, on the left side
of the trunk. There were a few connectors for what I am assuming are the lights. (Multi-colured
wires heading into a transparent plastic box). Since I am not that mechanically
inclined I decided to leave it alone. Is the power antenna, power connector easy to spot?
Is it at the base of the antenna? Things are a little tight down there. I asked a service
advisor at my dealership and he said it CANNOT be done! He recommended me buy a
new antenna! I would be happy just to discconect the motor of the antenna and leave it up.
I find the power antenna annoying anyway.
Thanks!
Also, I'm on my second hydraulic clutch linkage, which is also defective; the 3rd assembly is waiting at the dealer. I've also had other problems with my 2001 Accord EX. The dealer hinted that I should avoid a 5-speed trans. In fact, a 2001 Accord with auto. trans. I had as a loaner car worked well. Possibly the 5-speed makes to much of a demand on the ULEV-calibrated engine?
Needless to say, I'm now VERY fed up with this car and Honda. I hope the forthcoming Altima is all that it appears to be. If so, Honda will have lost a "life-long" customer this fall.
In the mean time, any ideas you have are welcome--I have to go back to my dealer to get the 3rd hydraulic clutch assembly installed.
And, is the dealer and his team of technicians saying they can't detect a problem or they saying they don't know how to fix it?
Also, Auburn, have you heard of this clutch problem? I haven't.
For those of you in Toledo, Ohio stay away from
BROWN HONDA. My sister in law was taken for
a very expensive ride. She was told the car she was buying was "certified used" later was called from the dealership and told it was NOT and had to bring it back in for inspection, and would not offer a loaner. After she got upset with them they
just happened to find her a loaner. 6000 miles after the car was "certified" the service light came on and she took it in to Brown and was told the radiator fluid was bad and needed replaced, after they performed an oil change and coolant change the bill came to over $275.00! all this after it had just been "certified" Just another dealer taking advantage of women.
NOW WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HONDA DEALERS MISTER
And, unless your dealer has let you down in the past, you should expect them to do right by you instead of going in with a negitive attitude.
Your car is under warranty and should be fixed to your complete satisfaction.
I do hope all works out well for you.
The connector should be right near and or on the power antenna motor. Located in the left rear quarter area just behind the wheel tub. I will try and look at one when I see one. Once disconected it may want to and or go down on its own but if you grab it with something and pull it back up it will stay. You could also take plyers and kink it at the bottom after fully up so that it cant go down. Now of course this will cause a noise when turn on and off but just for like 5 secs each way..Good luck
m9431
Manual shifts are tuff for things like these. Sometimes it comes down to a persons driving habits. I may drive it and say it is great and no problems while another tech may feel the problem. Have they ever verified the problem with you ? Do they feel that you are in too high of a gear for accel? Or do they agree you have a problem and just don't know what it is ? I havent had any complaints even close to what you are saying but I will look on our data base and on ISIS and see if I can see anything. In the mean time if you can verify the problem for them maybe they would be willing to take a snap shot with the scanner and send the results to tech line for diag. Good luck
I'm also wondering what effect the ULEV system has on things. Anyone have any insight as to what difference ULEV might make (vs the standard setup)? Is ULEV/5 sp a bad combination for some reason?
Thanks for any insights
ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!!
Much Thanks
If the problem is there when turning off your A/C then I would think that maybe your base idle is messed up. If it is when turning it on then the idle up is going bad most likely.Is your car an LX or LXI ?
elgriton
The heat makes the soldered joints seperate and create an open. Once it cools down just a bit in the car(ex. door open or window open)The joint makes contact again and car starts.This can happen in the winter with direct sunlight but very rare and will not happen at night.As far as prices I am not for sure but I would say the part is around 50 - 60 dollars.
and I'm hoping you can help.
When I'm driving on the highway, I get a tapping at my feet and mostly it comes from the gas pedal or whatever is under the floorboard in this area. It seems to increase on turns anyone have any answers? I'm dealing with a Dealership that will always say there is nothing wrong before they even check. Thanks
no noise and to produce it, I only have to drive at highway speeds. I have found that on curves it seems to be more when I turn the steering wheel towards the right than left, but it happens even when going staight.
The dealer ran diagnostics and put about 1000 miles on it trying to find the problem. The dealer general manager offered to buy the car back at wholesale and take it to the auto auction as they don't want it on their lot, and then they'll sell me another. Of course I'll lose lotsa $ on that deal. What does that say about the dealer's confidence in this Honda?
The clutch linkage problem is a known problem with a service bulletin--this problem happens only in hot weather. The dealer called and has the parts for the clutch linkage replacement for the THIRD time.
Last weekend I found another problem in that water leaked in and flooded the rear floor! I could not find the source as all windows, doors, and roof were closed. Wow--do I really want another Honda???
Any more ideas?
Thanks for everyone's input. If anyone would have mentioned that I'd be this unhappy with a new Honda Accord, I'd have never believed them. What's worse is Honda's unwillingness to help a long-time Honda customer.
You may just be feeling the suspension/road surface being transmitted in to the body, or posible something hitting or rubbing against something under the hood. See if you can locate anything out of place under the hood. I will do a info search but have not heard of anything close to what you are describing. But lets see. Have you ask your dealer about it yet?
m9431
What did you mean by they said you caused it ? What were you doing wrong in their opinion ? The close to stall soon after start up is a normal flaw but should only happen one time within 5 to 10 min after first start of day. Sounds as if it maybe a ULEV related issue but a hard one to trace. The only thing I can think of is to unplug a computer sensor(such as the intake air sensor or tw sensor) and cause a check engine light. This sets the computer to a set value, usally on the rich side. Drive it and see if you can still make it happen.Let us know the result. Now please note that this light takes a while to reset on its own so you may have to go in and have the dealer reset the computer. Sometimes disconnecting the battery works but then you have to know your radio code. However this does not always work so if you need to go to the dealer tell them the light is on but don't mention that you caused it.
Your explanation and suggestion makes much sense. I'm not familiar with the exact locations of these sensors; I do see how to disconnect. Can you tell me the locations of them so I can identify both the intake and tw sensor then try your suggestion?
I don't completetly understand how the IAT sensor works, but if it's falsely reading too high, wouldn't that indicate that it's defective? If it's reading 130 and the temp is actually lower than that, wouldn't that falsely signal the need for less fuel, even though it actually needs more because the temp is lower than what it's reading???? Could this cause the skipping/missing that I feel at these RPMs? HELP!!!!!!!!!
P.S. Just replaced myself half of the A/C system (parts and instructions from ackits.com (a year warranty) - 20 minutes of work, total costs $ 200 - cheapest I got from any shop was $ 650, very helphul was messageboard www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/index.htm - highly recommend to those in need.)
Some other long-term symptoms: besides hesitation, "power surges," just the opposite of hesitation, may be felt on occasion when under acceleration and sometimes when the engine is winding down. This makes driving unpredictable, of course. Low end torque is noticeably worse than the same model with automatic trans. and worse than my '93 4-cylinder 5-speed Accord.
Several visits ago, I asked about timing and learned that it checks out fine, as did the other diagnostics. Leads me back to fuel, and I have to recall the past when I played with air-cooled VW engines and various carburetors' jet sizes, etc. My feeling is that it seems like it's not getting adequate fuel at times. Could still be a bad sensor or ECU, wiring, etc. Just don't know.
With no dealer support and no factory support from Honda, I'm "out in the cold" with this new Accord.
Have you spoken with either the Service Manager or the General Manager of your dealership? Let them know you plan to take the problem up the line to the Zone Office. Time to get on with the process as Honda has outlined it. And make sure you have all your service writeups for a Lemon Law claim, if that becomes necessary.
Did you learn anything along the way that would help? Tools needed, disconnecting hoses ect.
I will check out web sites you listed. Did it really only take 20 minutes?
Thanks Again!
Chip
With a low battery condition and or a dead battery the SRS unit will code up a unit failure code. Have it cleared and see if it comes back on. If so you will need a new unit.
M9431
Disconnecting the battery for more than 30 sec. will sometimes clear the light. You should go to a new dealer and start fresh with them and see what they will do.Sounds as if you could need a new ECU but it is hard to say on the net without looking at the car..