Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

m9431 · August 2001

Thanks for your suggestions. My gut feeling is that the ECU, erratic fuel pressure, or a funky sensor could very well be the culprit. Yes, I spoke with the dealer's general manager, service manager, and several techs--they all know me by name. And yes, I spoke with Honda's factory reps several times. They claim that they can't find any problem and hence have not attempted any replacements of components that may be suspect based upon the symptoms. Why didn't they, after 5 return visits, come up with useful diagnostic routines instead of denying the problem's existence. I feel that you, auburn63 and spokane have provided more support on this board than both Honda and my dealer. (Thanks) Again, their 'final' solution is for me to trade the car in and buy another, then Honda will give me a $1000 rebate. How's that for a solution? I'm very frustrated with this car and Honda. With support like this, I see no reason to buy another Honda.

qualityguy · August 2001

Nothing really special is needed. When you say, your A/c is getting week, check it out first, it might have a leak. Normally it would be condenser, that rusted away - take a stong portable light and look at the condenser - you know where it is? It is in front of your radiator, right behinf the bumper... If you see there something that looks like oil leak, it is it. If it is not that, it could be an O-ring (25 cent piece of sh@#$ - you would have to fill up the system with the paint (or dy) - $ 100 (a good deal) disassemble the system later, replace the O-ring and fill it up again - every fill-up could run you up to 250 dollars - SHOP AROUND FIRST. I got it for 65. Also, your car is using R-12, which is not cheap, but still widely available. DO NOT CONVERT TO R-134a!!!!!!!!! (In the worst case scenario use AUTOFROST - it is direct non-freon replacement for R-12.) It will never be that cold(with R-134a); it is very hard to get a proper conversion! System must be flashed with detergent, ester oil must be used i.o. mineral oil, system must be vacuumed for many(!) hours. All O-rings must be changed to R-134a compartable. Everything else will either fry your compressor($200+), or just not give you level of A/C perfomance for the money, and you'll be very sorry for the ton of money you have spent on repairs of a, basically, very old car you gonna give away to donation in a couple of years anyway. Also, if you could get somebody from a place that fixes home A/C's do the job of freon refilling for you, it will be much cheaper (unless you can do it youself). If it is a condenser: get new O-rings(get the cheapest - dealer will charge you like $7 for the very same 70 cents parts): 2 small and one 5/8,
you need also a new receiver/dryer ($30) -you get it from ackits.com. Be very carefull unscrewing/screwing the nuts(just don't do anything crazy) - lots of parts are from aluminum, that breaks and bents only once. otherwise you'll be fine. Any questions - post a message on the forum to Qualityguy.

Now, I wonder, if anybody will tell me anything re. exessive steering wheel play...

noaccord2 · August 2001

I put my 2001 Accord V6 EX (3400 miles)in reverse and it accelerated as fast as it could go, only stopping after I crashed into a concrete porch and an evergreen tree.
My insurance adjuster found $7700 worth of body damage, but did not examine the engine problem. It is still in the body shop and the dealer says when the repairs are done, "its your car". I found on NHTSA that there have been other reports of sudden acceleration in 2001 and other years Accords, and there is a TSB on this:
Service Bulletin # 010200
Bulletin Sequence #189
NHTSA Item # SB618953
Honda Accord 2001
Component:Engine
Summary: Information on diagnosing engine speed fluctuations, surging or hesitation at take off.
I plan to take it to another Honda dealer after the body work is complete, since the dealer where I purchased it does not want to do anything. What are my rights when the body work is done?

rhymas · August 2001

My wife's 2000 Accord LX (4 cyl. auto) acts kind of strange when the converter locks up for the first time of the day. It kind of jerks a little, and acts like it doesn't want to stay locked up. After the first time of the day, it is fine for the rest of the day, even if it sits for several hours between trips. Anyone else experienced this?

jrct9454 · August 2001

...yes, on the 4 cyl, the first time the engine is warm enough to engage the lockup, it seems to be a noticeable event, going unnoticed after that. It is all about ambient temperature vs the temperature of the engine and transmission. Harmless.

I note that with our '01 V6, this phenomenon is much less noticeable, in fact, transparent most of the time.

auburn63 · August 2001

I have converted my cars (2-92 accords and a 86 chevy) and they blow just as cold as before. Well actually better because they were leaking before I repaired them.:). Anyhow in all of them all I had to do was add the pag oil that came in the kit and screw on the valves with locktite. We are being instructed to use only the R12 or the R134A as so far Honda has not reconized any of the others as completly safe to use.

qualityguy · August 2001

1. Where are you driving it?
2. How long are you driving it with A/C on after conversion, especially on hot and humid days?
3. What is the temperature it is blowing after conversion?
4. The car I am driving, had under 30F before I converted it - I just had no option than to do that - I was called from the shop after they did the converison. I was shocked. But, as result, I paid US$ 65 only for that. But now it blows 50F. It's not bad, but my Subaru still blows under 30F... But nobody I know got away with Accord A/C converison. It was either redone, or changed back to R-12 again. I have chills on my back, when I think about it... So, if you don't want any uneasy feelings, go with factory specs, don't be a smart@#$.

ctrowland1 · August 2001

Great Post. I will follow your advice. I did contact ackits. Inquired about their conversion kit. Tech service guy was very honest. Said it would take alot of work to do job right. Sent me a quote of over $600. Just for parts!
Sorry, can't help you with your steering problems.
Thanks Again! Hope you get many more years out of your trusty Accord.

Chip

auburn63 · August 2001

Don't be a smart @#$. Dude if you want me to be a smart one if your A/C was blowing 30F it would freeze up and not work at all. I think your temp sensor was mis-reading. The spec for most A/C units is 42f with some pulling 38 but the A/C thermostat( unless bad) will shut the A/C down at 35f. I live on the east coast, US with high temps and humidity in the summer and drive 20 miles @ 65-70mph every day with sometimes sitting in traffic at snails paces and either way blows in a range of 42- 45f as the compressor cycles.That is on recerc from the center vents. I have done 100's of conversions with no comeback complaints so I am not being a smart @#$ I was just stating an opinion..Sorry for disagreeing with you..Final note some 89 and earlier Accords can not be converted due to the compressor design. Kehins for example should not be converted..Sandens were ok too convert.

spokane · August 2001

I must agree with Auburn that an automobile A/C system cannot provide air at 30 degrees F. A temperatures of 45 degrees F is very good. Excellent, in fact, if the air flow is high and the absolute humidity is also high.

rhymas · August 2001

I must agree with auburn63. I was an A/C tech. for many years and I never saw any system that would blow below 38F, especially in high humidity areas. At 30F, the evaporator would freeze solid and prevent all air flow.

ctrowland1 · August 2001

"Kehins for example should not be converted..Sandens were ok too convert."

Could you explain?

Thanks

gary_william · August 2001

Please, I know I am a dumb [non-permissible content removed], so keep the flames to a minimum. Last night I had to drive my 2000 EX V6 coupe through some really deep water due to the rainstorm overcapacitating the storm drains. There was no way to aviod driving through it, other than swimming home.

Anyways, I drove through, with the A/C on to keep the windows from fogging up from the rain. Now the A/C fan will not blow when set in the Auto position. I can manually turn the fan on, and the fan velocity increases as I rotate the dial, but when I click it into the Auto position, almost no airflow comes through, even though I set the temperature to 65 degrees. At 64 degrees the fan began to blow faster, but nowhere near as fast as it should to try to make the car temp 64 degrees. I have checked all of the obvious fuses, but wonder if there is a separate fuse or control for the A/C system while in Auto mode. Please e-mail me an answer since I need to take the car on a long trip tomorrow morning.

gary_provencher@hotmail.com

Thanks in advance for the help!

arnied1 · August 2001

I currently drive a 97 Maxima and am considering buying a 98 or 99 Accord. A couple people have told me that you really need to change all the fluids and the plugs (4 cyl.) every 30K miles on the Honda.

According to the Maxima owner's manual these things should be checked at certain mileage intervals, but they do not say that they "must" be done.

Any thoughts on the Honda maintenance (or Maxima)?

Thanks.

auburn63 · August 2001

Honda says that the Kehin compressor can not be converted due to their internal design. They say that the R134A would cause damage to them because of this. So to retro-fit them Honda put together this kit which comes with a new compressor, lines to match the new compressor the retro-kit itself(which normally sales for 60.00) and a few necesary to fit accesories like brakets and such.

The Sanden and Nippon Denso compressors were internally built differant and would not be bothered by the conversion.

ctrowland1 · August 2001

Thanks for your reply. I have an '89 Accord Coupe Lxi. How can I tell which compressor I have? You mention that the Kehin retrofit allows use of R134A. Is this retrofit from Honda complete? i.e. after installation R134A can be run through system? If so, I assume this kit is available from Honda dealer.
If I have Sanden and Nippon Denso compressors, what is involved in conversion and appoximatly how much would it cost? Can I do conversion myself?
Thanks again for your time.

Chip

amers3 · September 2001

After a year's worth of trips to the shop, Honda has diagnosed my '00 V-6's skipping/missing in hotter temps and ~1800 RPMs as being a lean condition. AUBURN63 : Is there a way to correct this condition? The dealership doesn't seem to think so, they say it's normal (do all Accords act this way?) and that there's no fix. Just wondering what your thought are... Thanks.

auburn63 · September 2001

ctrowland1
You have to look under the hood for a sticker telling you what the compressor and serial number are or look at the back of the compressor. There will be a label on the compressor itself. As well most Honda techs can look at it and tell you, so if all else fails go by a Honda dealer and get an estamate.As for the conversion of a sanden unit all you need to do is evacuate the freon open the low side line and install the pag oil that comes in the kit, clean off the schrader valves, put loctite in the threads and screw on the new fittings. Pull vacuum for 10 or more min., and then recharge the unit with R134A.Use the max refidgerant spec for the car -2oz.Example if the R12 system held 2.0lbs(32oz)you would recharge with 1lb 14oz(30oz)of R134A.

amers3
We have not had any of these yet but across the country people see differant complaints. That I know of the only way to increase a lean condition is by going to a speed shop and see what they have available. I know they have ways like new ECU and programable ECU's so maybe they will have other ways as well.

qualityguy · September 2001

My, God, coming from long weekend, you can find so much passion on those posts... Auburn63, OK, I didn't use the sensor from Space Shuttle, but the system was (and is, depending on the car) blowing in it's 30'th - since I have same reading on a brand-new LS. Second - why so much passion? You know something - share you technical knowledge and life experience tell and help the others, act like mature person, if you can, and don't be personal - it's about the cars we talk here, not people. Third - I always said, and say now - stick to factory spects, unless you go for the proven mods, or you know exactly what you are doing. It's your money, after all.

ctrowland1 · September 2001

ziggy21 · September 2001

There have been many negative posts on this board about the V6, particularly the tranny. However, I have researced several other boards and find that this board far out exceeds the negative comments found on other boards. I have seen the NHTSA info and there are some complaints, but I wonder if we don't have some factory reps or even extended warranty sales people that view these boards. Paranoia in reverse?

auburn63 · September 2001

We have a large dealership and we see alot of cars per week and day. There have been a few transmission exchanges done in the past but not that many. For the most part the transmissions in these cars last for a long time. Thats not to say that they are the best, they have characteristics in their shifting that some do not like and therefore consider them to be a problem, when actually it is normal. So if you plan to buy one test drive it for atleast a 30 min drive and pay attention to how it drives and shifts then make up your own decision.Good luck

kennthy · September 2001

I've read several comments on this board and because I've seen a lot of good information I wanted to find out if someone has experienced the same problem with their Honda. The first problem I'm having is, when my car is sitting idle you can feel it studder/hesitate. When I press the gas to take off it hesitates as well. According to Honda, it was because I needed a major tune up. I had my mechanic replace the wires, spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap. There was oil in the spark plugs, so I agree that may have been a problem, but after doing the tune up my car still hesitates. A couple of months ago, Honda replaced my main relay and ignitor because my car would stall/die once started and then the a/c was turned on. First they replaced the main relay that wasn't the problem so they replace the ignitor. That fixed the problem but within a couple of days the hesitating started. The fuel filter was replaced prior to the main relay and ignitor. My car has 206K miles. Can anyone please help?

auburn63 · September 2001

Does this studder happen between 1500-2000 rpm's ?
Or under light acceleration? If so it may be the EGR ports in your manifold. They tend to clog one at a time until all are clogged except for the number 1 cyclnder and that one then gets all the load dumped in it causing a really leaned out cylnder and a miss fire. To test this you can disconect the vacuum hose going to the EGR then road test it and see if it still studders. Note the check engine light will come on but no big deal it will reset after shutting the car off.Other than that I would think possibly a bad injector but I think it will probably be the EGR ports.Good luck

wdoran · September 2001

My 90 Honda accord transmission shift lever binds badly going into and out of park, car has 122000 miles. I've checked the shift cable adjustment and it appeared correct. Any suggestions? Would you guess it to be a shift linkage problem or transmission? All other shifting actions seem good. Thanks for your help.

mwcarlso · September 2001

I think your problem might be the shift cable binding when switching into and out of park. I had to replace the shift cable on my 93 Accord auto at around 120,000 miles and it had the same symptoms as yours does. I only had trouble getting it into park most of the time although there was some resistance shifting out of park too. My Honda dealer had the part in stock which leads me to believe that they do have problems with shift cables going out from time to time. I think it cost around $275 installed. Good luck.

isellhondas · September 2001

I won't name anybody, but there are two or three anti-Honda people who prowl these boards.

They pop up once in awhile and do their best to convince people that Honda has some kind of ongoing problem with V-6 transmissions.

I'm not sure what their motivation is but it does get tiring.

Listen to Auburn63. After all, he is a front line Honda technician who deals with this everyday.

ghomaz · September 2001

I bought my Accord LX/V6 in April '01 and right now I have 1650 miles on the odometer. My question is when do I change the engine oil? There is no way that I am going to reach the 7500 miles (let alone 3750) miles level by October, i.e., 6 months from April. From what I read in the Honda website it seems that the engine has a special break-in oil which Honda recommends not to change until the first service by which time the engine wear patterns settle in. So what do I do? Should I change the oil in October, or should I wait till 3750 miles which I will not hit till at least April of next year? Please advise.

Also, isn't the recommended engine oil 5W20 too thin for summer driving in the NY area?

Thanks.

ziggy21 · September 2001

Seeing all of the negative comments on this boardm and concerned over my new 2001 EX, I did a little research. The accord did have a few compaints to the NHTSB during the first 3 months of 2000 about the tranny. There are none after that, only other relative minor unrelated problems. Also, interestingly, Honda had a total of 179 complaints in 2000, and Camry had 129. This year Honda has around 22 and Camry has more (must have worked some ugts out) Believe it or not Ford Mustang had fewer complaints except for 1998 or prior years. Seems the older they get the worse (who would of guessed?) Clearly Honda and Toyota hold up longer (duh?)

Also, concerning the Tranny in the Accord, I checked arond to several well known Transmission Repair facilities with national chains and was told that they rarely ever have to repair an Accord tranny.

Issellhondas on this board may be right about the tranny problem being fixed. Ziggy

kennthy · September 2001

You can feel the car hesitate/studder while the car is idle as well as when I hit the gas to take off. If I make a complete stop and then tap my gas pedal to take off you can feel the studder. It almost feels like the car is going to shut off but once I hit the gas it will take off. I will check the EGR and then the injectors. Any other suggestions?

auburn63 · September 2001

I think mwcarlso has it correct, we see alot of similar complaints and it is usally the shift cable itself that is bad..Good luck

First oil change
I think you should probably do the first oil change at 3000 or 3750 miles. If that makes you feel uncomfortable then change at the 6 month mark. For years we have done 3000 or 3 months but the oil and the emissions of cars has changed over the years making it less important to change much earlier than 3750 and 6 months.Also the 5-20 will work great in this area(northeast).

nickelz · September 2001

Hi. I have a 97 Accord EX that I bought 1 1/2 months ago from a dealer. I am already scheduled to have that "kit" for the buzz/vibration at 1800 rpm's put in my car this week. But my question is something else completely. Today, as I was about 300 yards from my house, my car started SCREECHING!!!! Really loud!! It scared the crap out of me. If I had to guess where it was coming from, I'd say the wheels, but I don't know which ones. It was just overall LOUD. To recreate...I made a right turn, and then after about 20 yards after that, it started the screeching (Very metal-y sound). I then had a left turn and it still was there, and then a last right turn at my house. It was only when I would brake that the sound went away. I turned the car off when I got home. Then turned it on and drove around the block to test. And nothing. So, I am confused and freaked out.

I haven't gotten a chance to call Honda yet, cuz they were closed. So, obviously I'll talk to them tomorrow, but what are anyone's thoughts about whether I should not drive at all and have it towed to Honda? Would it be safe to drive? What does anyone think it is? Rotors? Wheel bearings? (though it didn't go away with any specific right or left turns while it was screeching for those 500 or so yards) And if someone knows what might be wrong, can you tell me your guess on prices to fix it?

Thanks so much for your time. Take care.

daysailer · September 2001

Check your disk brake pads for wear - the screech may be caused by the "wear indicators", metal tabs that contact the disk surface when the pads near the wear limit and are intended to schreech as a warning to replace the pads. If that's not the problem, you may have something caught between the back shield and the disk, but I'm betting on the wear indicators.

ravyn · September 2001

daysailer is right.. the same thing happened to my bf civic. the sound was horrible, and there was an intense grinding feeling. we waited to let the wheels cool, and took off the wheel where the offending sound was coming from. there was a rock wedged in there. took it out, put the wheel back on and everything was fine.

nickelz · September 2001

Thanks for your input. I did forget to mention that my pads were checked about a week ago and they told me they were good. I had them checked just because I hear this "click...click" noise one time each on each front wheel the first time I press the brakes each day (only forward though, not a reverse stop). They said the pads were good, but I had a loose "clip" on my back brakes. Obviously the clip in back wouldn't account for the front "click, click", but maybe it got loose and that's what made the screeching? What is this "clip"? How dangerous if I drive if it is off of whatever it's supposed to be on? But anyway, just wanted to say that my pads were checked and I was told they're good. Since you guys said that's probably it. But I'm confused by that....wouldn't the screeching had been when I press the brakes if that was the case, anyway? Cuz I know about the wear indicators sound. That's why I'm so confused why the noise happened out of nowhere and stopped when I applied brakes? My friend said she remembers something similar once, and said it was her rotors. Hopefully not. Hope it's just something stuck in there. Does anyone know how much it is to resurface or get new rotors if that's the case, so I know?

Thanks again. Take care.

carguy62 · September 2001

I think everyone should read auburns post #1622. My old Accord has had "peculiarities" in its transmission since day one that others probably would have thought were major problems. 150K miles later it is still pretty reliable. I'm not saying there aren't transmission failures, especially in the V6, that will happen but some people seem to be taking it too far. I just wish my V6 hadn't been totalled so I would be able to speak more about it's transmission.

ghomaz · September 2001

Can anybody tell me what is a reasonable price for a "HONDA 7 year/100,000 miles Extended Warranty" in the New York City/Long Island area?
Honda says dealers set the price and I have been quoted prices from $1300 to $1950.
Thanks.

sn1993j · September 2001

Hi all,

This is a nice board!

Unfortunately, my first post (this message) is going to complain about the build quality of my new 2001 Accord LX-V6. I bought the car about 3 weeks ago and it has only 600 miles. However, just before the Labor Day weekend, the poor car did not want to upshift and it jerked and shaken on acceleration. I was almost in an accident when this happened on the freeway, but fortunately I was able to coast to the side of the road and called for AAA. I was out of a car during the holiday and had to worry about this brand new car. The car was serviced 2 days ago and it was found that the problems were caused by a bad shift solenoid. The car performs fine after the repair.

My questions are (1) how big is this repair and will it affect the future performance? (2) how come a new car has a bad shift solonoid? From what I read this should be a reliable part.

My car also has a small crack on the drivers side door panel, and though it was replaced promptly, I felt very disappointed about the initial quality of this new car, especially after the shift solenoid episode.

I just hope the future performance and reliability could rebuild my confidence in Honda. My old 90 Civic never gave me any serious problems (why did I sell it?!!!).

Thanks for any comments.

auburn63 · September 2001

nickelz
The complaint as you stated it, is usally a sign of a brake indicator hitting the rotor. When you put the brakes on it pushes against the little indicator and makes the noise go away.So not to keep pushing the brake pad thing but if you have 4 wheel disc was all of them checked? Sometimes the pads need to be pulled completly out to be checked because they can be decieving just looking at them through the caliper. Other than that if you haven't heard it again then maybe it was just something that got jammed in behind the rotor and the backing plate.

sn1993j
All things mechanical/electrical break. Although unfortunate for you it was so soon and on a holiday weekend. Sorry to hear of your troubles, good luck from here on in all things should be fine..

abharon · September 2001

My 98 accord LX has 50K on it and has not had any problem until now. In the past week there has been 6 incidents where the engine just simply shuts off while I was driving.It seems to happen randomly either at city speed or higway speed.This is very serious problem. None of the warning lights came on, I only realized the engine was not running a few seconds later luckily I was able pulled to the side on a 6 lanes freeway!Restarted the engine,and it would start but immediately shuts off. After about a few more tries it was fine. I took it to the dealership and they spent an entire day and was not able to diagnose the problem. The car has been service recently by a Honda dealership. Does anyone know what could cause this or had a similar problem. Help!!!

PS. recently I realized that randomly at start up without pushing the accelarator, the car would start and immediately shuts off. I am not sure if there is a link.

spokane · September 2001

Replacement of the shift solenoid was a simple job. Even though the bad solenoid had a major effect on the car's performance, it is unlikely that anything else was damaged. Good luck.

auburn63 · September 2001

The only thing that comes to mind would be an ignition switch possibly. We see people with ten million things on their key rings and this puts stress on the ignition switches plus they can fail on their own just like anything else.So that would be my guess at this point.Try wiggling the key around and see if you can make it stall. If not then try and remember to look your dash the next time it happens, if it is a switch all of your dash indicator lights will go out as if key was in off position. If you know that didnt happen then until it can be verified and tested by a tech it is going to be hard to say what the cause is.Good luck

deltagrl · September 2001

Just checking to see if anyone has had similar problems with their Accord. My car was at 27,000
miles (14 months I had owned) when my check engine light came on. Took the car to the dealer and was advised if I did 30,000 mile service that would take care of my problem. NOT. Engine light came on the next morning. Took the car back to the same dealer and 3 days later they decided to replace the EGR valve. All was well until my mileage reached 35,000 miles in March 2001. Engine light came back on - took car to local dealer who has always serviced my car on oil changes and small warranty items - they were aware of previous work done and they CLEANED my egr valve.
Guess what, the light stayed off until around 47k miles which was in Aug 2001. Took car to original dealer who decided to chemically clean the egr valve & port. They did this at no charge.
It was a good thing as the light was back on the next morning. After taking the car back to the dealer and them getting in touch with tech's in California the resolution was to replace the EGR valve. We discussed who would pay for this problem and my dealership got the approval from the District manager that they (HONDA) would pay for the part but I would be held accountable to pay for the labor($121). I called the 1800 Honda Customer Service # and made a complaint about my recurring problem. The person that I spoke with was very understanding and advised me that if I had called this number before the dealership had contacted the district manager that they would have also paid for the labor. She advised that they could not override what the district manager had already approved. She also advised that this was a one time only "goodwill part" offered by Honda to replace my valve and that any additional problems that I have will be at my cost from now on. She did check to see if any recall's were out on this issue and none were. I asked what next and was advised to call the BBB. I could not help but to laugh. Is this the response that I get when I have a problem. I got more attention from Honda reps when I was just looking for a new car. I was advised by a new found friend at one of the dealerships that this is becoming a problem with 2000 accords since most people don't drive as much as I do (suburban working mom with kids and husband who coaches baseball). Please respond if you have any info that can help myself or others. ....My dealer who has done the EGR replacement twice has promised to set up a meeting between district manager and me. He wants the manager to hear my complaint. I will advise if this happens what the outcome is. SO far the light has stayed off for 2 whole days!! Maybe a miracle occured Thanks for your time!!!!

golfnut7 · September 2001

I just purchased a new 2001 V6 Accord, sold my 1995 Accord with 108K miles. As soon as I drove the car off the lot I noticed that it seemed to hesitate or miss a little under normal acceleration. Thinking it was just the new wearing off, I drove it for 200 miles before I took it back to the dealer. They said nothing was wrong with the car since the Check Engine Light didn't come on and to drive it for a few hundred miles more to see if it cleared up. They gave some excuse about the computer geting to know my driving habits. Never heard that one before. Well, here I am with 1,000 miles on it and it still seems to be hesitating. this happens under normal acceleration and is most prominent in second gear or when going up a hill. Under hard acceleration it doesn't hesitate at all. My 1995 4 cylinder Accord never hesitated at all.

Has anyone else experienced a similar problem?

camryv6 · September 2001

I HAVE A 1989 HONDA ACCORD LX 4CYL.
THE COOLING FANS THAT COOL DOWN THE ENGINE DOES NOT COME ON, SO THE CAR OVERHEATS. I LOOKED AT THE COOLING FAN FUSE (30 AMPS) IT WAS BURNED OUT SO I PUT IN ANOTHER FUSE, AND AND AS SOON AS I PUT IT IN THE FUSE BURNED OUT. DOES ANY ONE NO WHAT IT COULD BE. AND HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST TO FIX.

bolivar · September 2001

YOU HAVE A SHORT IN THE FAN CIRCUIT!!!!!!!!! THAT'S WHY IT'S BLOWING FUSES.

Please turn your Caps Lock off. It's these two sentences easier to read than the previous? (ALL CAPS IS CONSIDERED 'YELLING').

camryv6 · September 2001

Sorry about the caps. To me writing in caps is not a big deal. Do you no if i can fix it my self or i have to bring the car in and how much is it going to cost. Thanx for the help!!!

jrct9454 · September 2001

No, this is not common; yes, it has been known to happen.

And for everyone's benefit [and I will deliberately turn on the caps here] DO NOT EVER TAKE DELIVERY OF A CAR YOU HAVE NOT DRIVEN AT LEAST 10 MILES before committing to the deal. Always drive the specific car you intend to buy, and well before you sign anything. Get it warmed up, get it up to highway speeds, use the brakes, turn on the AC...do what I call an "acceptance test".

Golfnut is not the first person who has turned up a problem with a new car that was there right from the get-go. The best defense in this case is offense...do not close the deal until you know this is the car you want and it works properly.

Honda will make 400,000 of these things this year. Most of them will behave properly from minute one, and will do so for a hundred thousand miles with minimal effort on your part. HOWEVER, a few will not, and a fewer still will have something so obviously wrong that they should not be driven off the lot. That is a statistical certainty...behave accordingly.

A good dealer will solve this problem, whether or not the OBD codes are being set. Sounds like you need another dealer, or need to get the ball rolling with Honda to get one of the regional reps involved.

stump21 · September 2001

What is a reasonable price to pay for a muffler replacement for a 1997 Honda Accord 4-cyl?(Non-dual exhaust) The main pipe appears to be in pretty good condition. Thanks!

ravyn · September 2001

you might also check your temperature gauge... my mom's '88 accord was having a similar issue to yours, and the temp gauge was busted. we had it replaced, and the fan came on when it was supposed to, so no more overheating.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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