Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

urchin34 · October 2001

The relay price included the labor. Since Honda had spent seven years trying to resolve (or deny) this problem, I would have paid anything, just to have a car that would actually start.

timadams · October 2001

I've smelled a sulfur smell from many cars, not only Accords. It comes from the catalytic converter. I don't know what set of conditions leads to that smell (engine temp., speed, air temp., etc.), but most cars do that occassionally.

carguy62 · October 2001

I have an appointment this Saturday at the Honda dealer for the 40 point check. My starting problem is getting worse and worse. Funny thing, after sitting at work all day the car will start fairly easily, usually first or at worst on the second or third crank. In the morning after sitting in the garage I have to crank it 5-15 times. Does this tell you anything? Moisture? Bad distributor? Previous things you mentioned (#1684) included coil and igniter. Of course when I'm at the dealer it probably will behave fine.

owns4hondas · October 2001

I have a 91 Accord with about 94,000 miles on it. I frequently have difficulty starting it in the morning, plus it will "cut out" on occassion while driving. Seems to me it idles way too low. I've left it overnight at the service station, the guy tells me it starts fine. Yesterday, he told me it was the fuel pump. After reading the posts here, I'm very skeptical of that diagnosis. Any suggestions??? Oh, I should mention I get the "check engine" light sometimes after a hard start. I also notice that "sports" transmission light will sometimes come on during all this, even though it isn't engaged.

qwalls · October 2001

Have you even had the distributor or igniter replaced? Those are known problems with the '91 Accord.

auburn63 · October 2001

There are many factors that can be going wrong but the three most common are , main fuel relay, ignition switch and tune up parts.We do alot of main fuel relay for the problems discribed and some TW(temp, water) sensors. 90 and 91 had some distributor problems but they usally make noises, as far as I can remember those are the normal things to check. Distributor caps if it happens on moisture or damp mornings, rotors if burnt, coils if burnt or aftermarket, igniters usally dies out when hot then restarts once they cool down alittle.
Note to Carguy,
If yours happens more in the mornings on first starts then I would leave it at the dealers the night before so they can start it first thing also.

helkit · October 2001

I am having the exact problem with my 2000 EX (always adjusting steering even on a flat, straight road). It is driving me to distraction. It is becoming a chore to drive this car. I look forward to my daily commute about as much as I look forward to going to the dentist. I don't recall this tendency in my previous'91 Accord at all. Is this tight steering supposed to be an improvement?

talon95 · October 2001

I don't have that problem with my 2000 EX... I think I'd notice it, because I had the problem with my previous car, a '97 Olds Cutlass. My Accord is rock steady on any road.

bburton1 · October 2001

Had timing belt and other drive belts replaced at 118K on 97 I4 accord-belts had no wear and would have probably made another 50-100K. There is a slight fluctuation in the idle and the tech said that was an indication of carbon build up in the engine. They recommended a 3M Fuel System Cleaner which of course can only be provided by a authorized distributor.

Anybody know if this stuff can be obtained on the open market or is there another carbon removal system that works and does not involve a repair shop.

thanks

bburton1 · October 2001

Had an intermittent check engine light on a 97 accord I4. during replacement of timing belt at dealer, the tech ran the diagnostic-the flash was a 90 which means emission control system and the diagnostic came out 1457-and one potential source is a malfunctioning Canister vent shut valve. This is a small valve that sits on top of the carbon cannister and the O-ring ceases to function allowing the vacuum to be lost and this causes the fault condition. The tech said he had replaced dozens of them on 97/98 vehicles-I live in salt/snow country-and the salty crud causes the O-ring to fail. Since it was under warranty, they replaced the entire valve and now the thing works.

Point is this-if you have an accord and are getting a 90 blinking code, clean or replace the O-ring and this may fix the problem which appears to be rather common on these vehicles located in snow country.

By the way, this dealer replaced all drive belts including timing belt for $375. Dealers in the Chi area wanted over 600-OH YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE WATER PUMP ALSO. yeah right. Nice to find a dealer you can trust.

robr2 · October 2001

The dealer that did the belts for $375 - did they recommend the waterpump change? If yes, for how much more?

FWIW, I understand you might as well do the waterpump while you've got the whole thing apart. It's typically less than $100 for some preventative maintenance. Same thing with changing the axles when you replace boots - you've got it apart - you might as well.

gc_mitch · October 2001

Have you made any attempt at correcting your steering problem. My dealer acknowledges my similar steering problem but,does not know how to proceed. We made a appointment with a Honda rep. and that day the problem seemed to have diminished somewhat???After reading Auburn's advice on other accords I figured he might have seen a similar situation. I feel I've made an expensive mistake in buying this particular vehicle. I didn't catch it on my initial test drive.

mcfayden · October 2001

I have a 91 Honda Accord. It will start up and then die immediately. If you retry it will start up and die as many times as you try. It was running fine until this happened tonight. It has a code 15 which is ignition output. I plan on checking the coil for continuity in the morning. Any other ideas welcome.

wdoran · October 2001

Although my car passed NJ emissions I'm concerned that NOx was 876 with a maximum allowed of 879. all other test (HC, CO% showed negliable). What causes high NOx? car misses at idle at times, can this cause high NOx? Thanks

auburn63 · October 2001

The most common reasons for NoX is either a clogged EGR system or an internal motor failure such as head gasket going bad or rings going bad. There are a few other reasons but the EGR system is where you will probably want to start. The EGR's primary job is to reduce NoX. To test the general system pull vacuum on the EGR valve at idle and see if the engine goes to stall. That is not a complete test but it will get you started in a direction. Also you may want to check out your PCV and just make sure it is good. Good luck

helkit · October 2001

I didn't notice the steering at all other than it felt a little stiff compared to the 91 Accord that I had traded in for the 2000. On the other hand, the second time I took the new one for a test drive it had snowed quite a bit and it was windy (in Feb.) so I might have been a little hesitant on the highway. I guess that was kind of dumb. Probably not the best time to be car shopping, but my '91 was due for registration and inspection, and it had some body damage that would have cost so much to get done to pass, so I took the ins. check and used it towards the new one! it was going to be my 6th Honda and 4th Accord in my life, so I also had a lot of confidence in it. The first was a little civic hatchback in high school. I don't even remember the year(of the car) the looks of it reminded me of an m&m !! It probably would have lasted a real long time if it wasn't for an idiot that tried passing me in a "no passing" zone. When he realized that he was faced head -on with another vehicle, he cut into me which sent my little car off in a spin, then into the guardrail of the opposite side of the road. The car was smashed to an unrecognizable clump of metal, yet myself and the other 3 passengers in my car (almost ) walked away. No extremely "serious" injuries. We all were released from the emergency room that night And we were even riding "sans" seatbelts (that was before seatbelt a"wear"ness-haha) An even more amazing testimony is that the box of china that my mother had just purchased which was in the back had not one little crack in it!! amazing Anyway...my point is-I never really had to question the integrity of a honda until now. I have had numerous problems (but no injuries luckily) with my current one. Maybe I'll list them later. Overall, I feel that the '91 LX was made of better quality materials than my 2000 EX.
BTW, I mentioned to my dealer about the steering "sensitivity", but didn't get much of a response. At least it sounds as though your concern was acknowledged. I would like to know if they come up with anything.

barnone · October 2001

sometimes they cut quality to keep the cost down

mikemw · October 2001

ignition switch harness. try starting and don't completely release key, back off just enough to release starter. if it runs that's it.

urchin34 · October 2001

How much should it run to replace all four struts on a 90-93 Accord? Sorry, not mine, so I don't know the exact year. Dealer gave estimate of $800. Seems high.

silvercoupe · October 2001

I carried my 91 Accord (153k miles) in for the 40-point inspection yesterday and the only notes on the inspection sheet are--Cam seal-dist leaking. They were too busy for me to get a detailed explanation.

Do you think this is just the distributor o-ring leaking? Appreciate your thoughts and what it might take to repair.

lmcowboy · October 2001

1993 honda accord tranmission NOT shifting gears! This is a an automatic transmission.
This is my first message to this board so bear with me here! My 1993 Honda accord wagon will NOT shift on its own any longer! I noticed this about 2 months ago when it was shifting on its own from D4 to D2 or D1.
The light is stayinh lite on D4 no matter what other gear I shift to.
I saw a suggestion somewhere to disconnect the battery and see if the electrical system will reset it somehow?!?
I am now using D2 in low speeds and move up to D4 when I reach a certain speed! I have had this car for 4 months and noticed it shifting a few times down to D2 by itself once or twice a month or two ago! HELP!
What do I do? A mechanic told me I have a very expensive problem on my hands?! I am afraid to now even talk to another mechanic because it may be something simple but it also may just be an expensive problem. Has anyone ever had this happen to THEM! I have plans to talk to another mechanic this soon!
Anyone out there with similar problems!!!!!?

bburton1 · October 2001

Have a 97 I4 accord-non vtec and the dealer got 1457 code (evap control systems leak detected) from ECM and replaced the evap cannister vent shut valve. The same code light came back on after about 10 start/stop cycles.

Any suggestions as to what this might-this is still covered by the extended warranty. Suggestions have been bad gas cap or bad evap cannister.

Any suggetions.

elgriton · October 2001

Could anyone tell me where the drain plug is for the transmission fluid in a '93 Accord? Also, it is recommended that the differential fluid be changed concurrently. What exactly is the differential fluid? Where is it located, and how can it be change?

Thanks much.

bburton1 · October 2001

I assume this is an automatic-if so the drain plug is on the passenger side, just in front of the tire-turn the wheels all the way to the right, use a 3/8" square ratchet drive to fit into the hole and drain the fluid out into a pan when the car is HOT. Fluid gets very hot-above 300F and will fry skin. Mine takes 2.7 quarts to replace the fluid drained out. USE only honda ATF.

If it is a standard, then use the oil they recommend and make certain and fill it up to the proper level. Fill it on level ground. The differential fluid and tranny fluid are the same critter-the gears are in the tranny and not a seperate place. Change honda atf every 30K-just changed mine at 30K and the fluid was a bit dark but not smelly.

auburn63 · October 2001

If the leak is on the distributor side then it is probably just the dist. o ring. Real easy to replace, just take out the 3 12mm bolts, wiggle out the dist, replace o ring and reinstall in any where near the spot it was and all will be fine.If the leak is also on the belt side then that is a bit harder and could be the cam seal they do get hard in time which causes them to leak..

auburn63 · October 2001

lmcowboy
At any point in time or even now did you here a repetative clicking sound that would stop once the brake was depressed? Even if not it still sounds to me like a bad TCU (trans control unit)located on the passenger side floorboard(under carpet)next to the ECU.

bburton1
There is a hose assymbly that comes off the evap canister vent shut valve that goes down to a "T" fitting spyders crawl up in those hoses and create restrictions with there webs that get picked up by the computer and cause the P1457.Pull those hoses and check them out..

elgriton · October 2001

What is involved in this process, and what kind of tools would I need for such a job? BTW, it's a '93 Accord

spokane · October 2001

Elgriton, you will need a 10 mm wrench, a screwdriver, and feeler gauges. But must also know how to position the camshaft to be certain the valves are fully closed. If you have adjusted valve lash on other engines, you should be able to do it if you are mindful that too much torque can ruin one of these aluminum rocker arms. If you haven't developed the "touch" for setting valve lash through prior experience, I would suggest that you get help from an experienced person.

activex111 · October 2001

i have a 99 accord EX V6.. it got some scratches on the rear bumber.. does anyone know if you get a touch up paint for this model? mine is heather mist color.. i tried the local pepboys, autozone etc..

jrct9454 · October 2001

To get a good match, you have to buy the Honda touchup from the dealer's parts dept. It's cheap and it works, though for lighter metallics you have to remember that it needs to be shaken, reshaken, and then shaken some more, or you get a slightly darker shade that the factory paint. Just make sure it is thoroughly mixed before trying to use it - a brush with a much finer tip than the one supplied also helps.

dash400m · October 2001

Echo jrct9454! A personalized, color-coded bottle (0.44 oz.) sells for ~$4.00. Shake it and shake it, and shake it... and use one of jrct's fine-tip brushes.

isellhondas · October 2001

Have it fixed by a professional. It's a 99 and not an 89. If the scratches are bad your touch up job will stand out like a sore thumb.

It probably won't cost that much.

mirror · October 2001

I have heard rumors about problems with transmission in Accord 98 V6. Does anyone know details? Thanks.

camryv6 · October 2001

When i bought this car 1 month ago it had a winning sound comming from the engine. The person i bought it from said he justed changed the timming belt and water pump. Does any one no what that sound is. Could it be that the timming belt is to loose or to tight. Any help is great!

tim91306 · October 2001

I've owned a 98 Accord v6 since Feb 1998 with 45600 miles on it and so far is running like new. I don't have any problem with the car.

alcan · October 2001

A timing belt that's too tight can cause the whining noise you described. Did the seller say whether the noise was there before the belt replacement?

jrct9454 · October 2001

This topic has been beaten to death, and I hesitate even to respond, but one more time:

A small number of early production MY 2000 V6 automatics had a defective part that was the result of a supplier [in Japan] making a material change without consulting Honda. The symptom was a very loud, unmistakable clunking sound when backing up. Suspect production was late '99 to very early '00. To my knowledge [and I just checked the TSB data base] there are no significant issues with the '98s....and my '01 V6 has been a wonderful car, I might add...

camryv6 · October 2001

I didn't ask the seller about the winning sound.
But i asked him if he changed it and he said he did. Is unlosing the timming a job that i can do my self or do i have to take the car in. And there are a few scratches on the car, but i cant find the paint number of the car (color of car is like a metalic brown). Thanx for your help.

nsn · October 2001

I experience a slight hesitation when my Accord goes from below 20 mph to above 20 and a simlar one at about 40mph. Has anybody else seen something like this.
Also it seems very slow when climbing up even slightly inclined roads. If I am at 65mph and I reach a slightly inclined portion of the freeway my speed drops to 50 mph. The same thing happens even if I floor the gas pedal to force it into a lower gear.
Has anybody else experienced similar problems. What is the solution? Are there any known TSBs?

Thanks

mikebegin · October 2001

Question:

I have a 91 Accord Ex - Automatic and was told that there was no transmission filter and it does not need to be flushed. He said they just drain and fill with new Honda ATF fluid. Is he right? Should I have it flushed?

Thanks,
Mike

talon95 · October 2001

I don't have a solution for your problem, but it might be useful to be aware that your Accord does *not* have a V-4 engine. It's an inline 4 or I-4 engine.

I don't believe there are any cars currently sold in the US that have a V-4 engine. Lots of V-6 and V-8 engines, but no V-4's.

auburn63 · October 2001

There is an internal filter but it doesn't get changed except at rebuild time. As for a trans flush this can be done with a trans flush machine or by several drain and refills along with a procedure. For just your typical trans service all you need to do is a drain and refill with Honda ATF.

mirror · October 2001

Thanks for the piece of advice. I have purchased my 1998 Accord LX V6 one month ago and so far it is doing fine with the 60k on odometer. The only thing is that the transmission shifts a little hard. I mean it is not hard enough to make me want to bring it to the dealer but it is definitely harder than in Toyota Corolla - the other car I have.

mikebegin · October 2001

Thanks for the info!

jrct9454 · October 2001

That's right - no Honda automatic will shift as smoothly as any Toyota automatic...period. It's not the priority with Honda that it is with Toyota, just as Toyota puts handling down the list a bit for its sedans compared to Honda. There are lots of other dichotomies that define the differences in the way the two companies go about their business, but this is definitely one of them....

carguy62 · October 2001

Sorry to bother you again but I just read the discussion on the Civic board with the gentleman whose non starting Civic was remedied by replacing the coil. My '89 Accord LX-i is still having problems starting and now has begun to die out occasionally while driving (twice in the last few weeks...quite scary). I am not as handy as most here so I will have no choice but to bring it in, I'm just trying to get a little knowledge so I don't get taken too badly (this is the place that replaced the cooling fan motor and subsequent testing showed there was absolutely nothing wrong with it). At an auto parts store I was able to test a new coil wire but that didn't help. Of course even though they say they can test parts they didn't have the equipment to test the coil (something is telling me that is the problem...but...). If I can get the car started eventually do you think it is an electrical or a fuel related problem? Does a coil work intermittently or does it just go bad? I really want to sell the car or trade it but how can I if it needs to be cranked 10 times sometimes to start. I'm also worried I will damage the starter based on how many times I have to crank it now.

scorpio007 · October 2001

Help !!!

Brand new. 5000 KM.

NO START this morning. The engine cranks, but does not catch. Whinny sounding.

Have not driven the car in 4 days. Parked in my garage. Not exposed to any moisture or cold weather. No problem the last time I drove it. No
warning lights... nothing!!

All ideas and suggestions will be MOST appreciated.

Thanks as Always,

R.
P.S. Tried to start this afternoon, no luck.

barnone · October 2001

no fuel?

auburn63 · October 2001

carguy62
We have replaced a few coils in that year for similar problems but there are other things. Have you tried anything else yet? You have probably told me/us but I forget.If not then the best thing is to go in and see what they say.As for the starter it should be fine they take alot of abuse...Good luck

scorpio007
Try cranking it with the gas pedal fully depressed for a long crank atleast 45 secs and see if it tries to catch. They sometimes will start that way.Good luck

scorpio007 · October 2001

Thanks for the advice. I will try it.

As it stands, I do know that the 10ish second cranks I tried have NOT worked.

Someone asked if it had fuel....... a whopping full tank.

Have you (or anybody else) run into this problem with a 2001 before. If so, what was the matter and how was it solved.

Thanks !!

R

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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