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Comments
try to check your gas cap if it is secure or not.
can you smell fuel vapor?
EFI relies on pressure to pump fuel into the
combustion chambers.
check your fuel filter. it may be clogged or
something.
As it stands, I do know that the 10ish second cranks I tried have NOT worked.
Someone asked if it had fuel....... a whopping full tank.
Have you (or anybody else) run into this problem with a 2001 before. If so, what was the matter and how was it solved.
Thanks !!
R
Well, I cleaned the wires and cycled the ignition in the "on" postion for a full minute.
Depressed the gas paddle and let her rip.
30 seconds and the car was purring as always.
It had sat for few days without being started. Weather outside (car in garage) was wet for most of those days. Still, I cannot fathom what could have caused this. Moisture would be the first thought, however, hard to believe.
Fuel sending relay.... or fuel filter??
I am at a loss. I am sure I have not heard the last of it.
Went on an extra long test drive. All seems well.
BTW... did check the gas cap. Tight as always.
Hmmmmmmmmm ................ !!
R
Just a follow-up to my troubles from yesterday:
The car started fine this morning, in-fact, half start and it was purring as always.
It has been a wet day so far, but all is well.
One thing that stands out..... The car was not started in about 5 days. The weather outside was wet for most of that time.
Only other thing I can think of was using SUPER grade gasoline for the first time (Full Tank), however, had driven the car for some days before it sat without being started.
That's it that's all ....... for now !
R
No reset procedure just plug and go. No reason that I can think of for the stutter unless some fuel bled by an injector before start up..
scorpio007
Some of time when a car sits for a while the fuel presure bleeds off a bit and needs to pump up before start up. Most people with a new car just jump in, turn the key, let go a half a sec later anticapating a quick start up. Once you miss start it in such a way the cylynders now get extra fuel in them and require some extra air(pushing down on gas pedal and holding)to componsate. On those extended no use days try turning the key on and waiting 3 secs before turning the key to start..If it fails to start on first try then depress the gas pedal as you start.Good luck.
These engines will not be fully broken-in for at least 6-8000 miles. No matter what some self-styled expert tells you, I've owned 3 very different Honda products in the past 6 years ['96 Acura RL, '98 Accord LX 4, '01 Accord EX V6], and they all were making more power and using less fuel right through the 7500 mile service.
Our EX V6 is just now passing the 7k mark; suburban driving tends to be 20-22 mpg, and trips are 24-27 mpg, given all of the usual variables about weather, terrain, load, AC use, etc.
From my perspective, any fuel consumption figure that puts you within 5-10% of the EPA numbers means you are within the statistical range that should be considered average. Relax.
Anyone else got this problem?? It looks like hell.
grr.. honda customer service.
The Honda-recommended fix is to reposition the mounting (drill new holes)and put heavy-duty GLUE in the old holes. I'm no mechanic, but gluing the engine sounds pretty lame to me.
I have a few questions:
1. Have other owners had this problem? How common is it?
2. Does this fix work? Or do I need to be worried about replacing the engine in a few years?
3. It's "not covered by warranty" but there's no way I'm paying to repair this without a HUGE fight. But should I stop at getting them them to pick up the cost of the repair? What seems fair to other people?
4. Any advice on how to get satisfaction between the dealer and the Honda customer service rep?
Thanks for any advice.
The 3 Year/ 36K power train warranty instituted by Honda is for a reason. I would recommend anyone buying a Honda from 1994 on buy the extended warranty that will cover you to 7 years 100K.
Thanks.
It most likely is the purge control valve that you are hearing and this is a normal duty cycling of the valve.
m9431
I can hear a slight whine like noise in the trans on accel but not at idle. You may want to have them check it out but there is no bulletins and no current problems that I know of, so it probably is normal. I know the power steering pumps make a similar noise also and maybe thats what you are hearing. Good luck
superman5
If your car is an 98 or higher you can push and hold the trip button down with key off, then turn the key to the run position as you are still holding the button until the light goes out.Usally takes about 15 secounds afterwards release the trip button and the light should stay out..
I have 3650 miles on my July 2001 accord...Is it time for an oil/filter change ??? My car salesman had told me that I should get it done only after 4000 miles...Please advise. What is the ideal mileage/no of months for an oil change ? Should I check for any other thing ??
-Harry
Hondas come from the factory with a break in additive in the oil. Honda does recommends waiting until 7500 miles for the first oil change. This allows the additive to assist with proper sealing of the rings and bearings etc. My dealer said that if you do not drive much than 6 months is a good time to change it. I also learned the Honda additive is basically a non plating molybdenum additive. This is available from www.mrmoly.com for new engines. I used a can after changing my oil at 6 months and 4500 miles. Be sure to get the one for engine break in as it does not bind to or plate the metal.
Any help is great ...
My question is why I can't find anything in the owner's manual regarding replacing the cap and rotor. Even in the schedule maintenance table section.
any suggestions
Anyone else experienced this with a '98 Accord?
auburn, are you a tech? what part of the world