Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • barnonebarnone Member Posts: 118
    if your car is 2001, i assume that it has EFI.
    try to check your gas cap if it is secure or not.
    can you smell fuel vapor?

    EFI relies on pressure to pump fuel into the
    combustion chambers.

    check your fuel filter. it may be clogged or
    something.
  • scorpio007scorpio007 Member Posts: 19
    Thanks for the advice. I will try it.

    As it stands, I do know that the 10ish second cranks I tried have NOT worked.

    Someone asked if it had fuel....... a whopping full tank.

    Have you (or anybody else) run into this problem with a 2001 before. If so, what was the matter and how was it solved.

    Thanks !!

    R
  • scorpio007scorpio007 Member Posts: 19
    Hello all....

    Well, I cleaned the wires and cycled the ignition in the "on" postion for a full minute.

    Depressed the gas paddle and let her rip.

    30 seconds and the car was purring as always.

    It had sat for few days without being started. Weather outside (car in garage) was wet for most of those days. Still, I cannot fathom what could have caused this. Moisture would be the first thought, however, hard to believe.

    Fuel sending relay.... or fuel filter??

    I am at a loss. I am sure I have not heard the last of it.

    Went on an extra long test drive. All seems well.

    BTW... did check the gas cap. Tight as always.

    Hmmmmmmmmm ................ !!

    R
  • elgritonelgriton Member Posts: 67
    Check the Main (Fuel) Relay =) Seems like it's a prevalent problem with Honda's.
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    Watch this carefully and keep copious records. In 1990 I had the same problem with my Accord. It happened several times, including stalling out at intersections, on the freeway, and at a car wash. Eventually it got to the point where it started as it should about 50% of the time. After multiple ignitions, batteries, distributors, etc. it was determined to be the main relay. In the meantime, I suffered for 8 years. After the warranty expired, Honda washed their hands of it. In short, if it happens again, don't think it will get better. Be assertive and make sure it is taken care of.
  • elgritonelgriton Member Posts: 67
    When you replaced your Main Relay, was it the exact same one as your original? I'm purchasing mine today and hope they have improve upon the quality of the original? Otherwise, we'll be revisiting this issue in a few years?
  • elgritonelgriton Member Posts: 67
    I've just replaced the Main Relay. Do I need to reset anything? I started the engine afterward and it seems to shutter lightly.
  • scorpio007scorpio007 Member Posts: 19
    Hi folks,

    Just a follow-up to my troubles from yesterday:

    The car started fine this morning, in-fact, half start and it was purring as always.

    It has been a wet day so far, but all is well.

    One thing that stands out..... The car was not started in about 5 days. The weather outside was wet for most of that time.

    Only other thing I can think of was using SUPER grade gasoline for the first time (Full Tank), however, had driven the car for some days before it sat without being started.

    That's it that's all ....... for now !

    R
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    While you have mentioned that the car sat for a few days, and moisture, I thought I'd mention that our 01 EX V6 sits often for a week at a time [we jack it up to keep the tires from lumping] or occasionally even more, though always in our garage and always in the relatively mild temps that prevail here in Calif. I think your problem was some kind of electrical malady, something that has since been reset [and who knows, may never recur]. I would rule out fuel, or the 5 days between starts, and even the wetness as prime suspects - something was keeping the fuel from reaching the injectors....
  • matt96accordmatt96accord Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Accord 4dr sedan with a 4cyl. engine. I bought it used with about 70,000 miles and have put 10,000 on myself since. I noticed not too long after I purchased the car that the engine will make a vibrating noise under certain circumstances. Specifically, the engine must be warmed up, the car in drive and under acceleration. Only when these conditions are met and the tachometer is at just below 2000 RPM will this noise occur. It sounds like it comes from the engine comparment and can only be described as a fast rattle or vibration. It goes away as soon as the RPMs increase. I can't find anything loose in the engine compartment and haven't noticed any adverse problems associated with the noise. It still bothers me though, and I'd like to know what it might be. Anyone with a similar problem??? Thanks
  • mwcarlsomwcarlso Member Posts: 85
    The noise your describing sounds like it might be the exhaust system rattle that many people have complained about. There is a TSB which calls for replacing the fittings of the exhaust system. I guess after a while the fittings which alIow for movement of the exhaust system just wear out. I think it was less than $100 to fix on my sisters Accord. Good luck.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    elgriton
    No reset procedure just plug and go. No reason that I can think of for the stutter unless some fuel bled by an injector before start up..

    scorpio007
    Some of time when a car sits for a while the fuel presure bleeds off a bit and needs to pump up before start up. Most people with a new car just jump in, turn the key, let go a half a sec later anticapating a quick start up. Once you miss start it in such a way the cylynders now get extra fuel in them and require some extra air(pushing down on gas pedal and holding)to componsate. On those extended no use days try turning the key on and waiting 3 secs before turning the key to start..If it fails to start on first try then depress the gas pedal as you start.Good luck.
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    Actually, mine was repaired rather than replaced, which the Honda rep thought was sort of stupid. At any rate, the car was eventually donated to a homeless shelter and is mechanically problem free two years later, even with mulitple drivers driving it all over town. Last I heard, though, the driver side door would not open (no accidents, just would not open) and the cost to repair was prohibitive ($450-600) They wondered if I would like to donate the repair cost!
  • eagle21eagle21 Member Posts: 26
    Hi...I have to say thanks to everyone for their questions and answers. First I just bought a 2001 Honda Accord LX-V6 in August. The car drives great and everyone loves the roominess. The only question is the fuel economy is under 20 in the city and close to 25 on the highway. The dealer said when I picked up the car that they have a special like oil in the engine that's supposed to sit in their till the first oil change. This will cause the pistons to seat in more. Is that true?? I'm at 1870 miles...and just wondering... Thanks in advance.
  • elgritonelgriton Member Posts: 67
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Eagle and others: Over and over again, let's repeat the mantra that comes up here every few days...

    These engines will not be fully broken-in for at least 6-8000 miles. No matter what some self-styled expert tells you, I've owned 3 very different Honda products in the past 6 years ['96 Acura RL, '98 Accord LX 4, '01 Accord EX V6], and they all were making more power and using less fuel right through the 7500 mile service.

    Our EX V6 is just now passing the 7k mark; suburban driving tends to be 20-22 mpg, and trips are 24-27 mpg, given all of the usual variables about weather, terrain, load, AC use, etc.

    From my perspective, any fuel consumption figure that puts you within 5-10% of the EPA numbers means you are within the statistical range that should be considered average. Relax.
  • elgritonelgriton Member Posts: 67
    I've noticed some oil underneath my distributor cap when I replaced it a month ago. It seems like it's seeping out from within the cap. What's the diagnoses? Another thing, is the ignition coil easy to change/replace yourself?
  • habakahabaka Member Posts: 9
    Just bought '02 LxV6 which has power drivers seat. After a week I noticed that the bottom drivers seat cover didn't fit right in the back. Had it replaced and the new one looks just as bad. Apparently, Honda is not cutting the cover correctly. The regional Honda rep. is checking it out but says he's "never had a complaint before".
    Anyone else got this problem?? It looks like hell.
  • ravynravyn Member Posts: 101
    i think it's in the honda rep's job description to tell people that they've "never had that complaint before." which makes me want to say right back, "well, if no one's complained about it, and everyone else's is perfect, then mine is obviously a defect. FIX IT!"

    grr.. honda customer service.
  • jujumamajujumama Member Posts: 1
    I took my 98 EX in for 45k service and they found it has a small crack in the engine block. Apparently there is Technical Service Bulletin that covers this problem in 94-97 Accords, but doesn't extend to 98's. The crack results from how the engine is mounted to the frame.

    The Honda-recommended fix is to reposition the mounting (drill new holes)and put heavy-duty GLUE in the old holes. I'm no mechanic, but gluing the engine sounds pretty lame to me.

    I have a few questions:
    1. Have other owners had this problem? How common is it?
    2. Does this fix work? Or do I need to be worried about replacing the engine in a few years?
    3. It's "not covered by warranty" but there's no way I'm paying to repair this without a HUGE fight. But should I stop at getting them them to pick up the cost of the repair? What seems fair to other people?
    4. Any advice on how to get satisfaction between the dealer and the Honda customer service rep?

    Thanks for any advice.
  • lugwrenchlugwrench Member Posts: 213
    It is definitely a defect and Honda should cover it if you make a big stink. The dealership and the Honda Representative will be thinking on the same wave length. They will not want to pay for it since the car is out of warranty. I would file a complaint with the NHSTA. I would also check the site if there are any similar complaints.

    The 3 Year/ 36K power train warranty instituted by Honda is for a reason. I would recommend anyone buying a Honda from 1994 on buy the extended warranty that will cover you to 7 years 100K.
  • golfnut7golfnut7 Member Posts: 34
    You probably mean you have a V6. I have a 2001 EX V6 and just turned about 3,000 miles. I have had a similar problem since I got the car. It has gotten a little better but not much. I am going to take it back to the dealer for the second time next week. Mine hesitates or stutters from about 20 mph through about 70. Like yours, when I am going up hills it feels like it is fighting to keep its speed. I don't lose as much speed as you describe, though. Has anyone else had asimilar problem and found a fix?
  • golfnut7golfnut7 Member Posts: 34
    Simple question. I have a 2001 EX V6 and the fan does blow unless the automatic climate control is on. If I turn it off and just run it manually, I just get the air movement when I am moving. Should the fan work without the automatic climate control? The owners manual really isn't clear.
  • urchin34urchin34 Member Posts: 70
    I totally agree, I have never seen worse customer service than Honda and because of my own lemon and their refusal to stand behind it, I know that they lost far more sales than it would have cost them to fix it. To top it all off, it took an independent shop to diagnose and fix the problem that Honda had denied (but also charged for) for 7 years. At any rate, along the way, I did learn that if you can somehow get them to believe that your problem is safety related, they are eager to solve it. Don't ask me why. For example, when the master brake cylinder went out after 6 years, they wanted to pay for it because they said it was a safety problem. I never requested it and just considered it a normal repair. I had a couple of other "safety related" issues they took care of even after 9 years. Perhaps to appease me for the misery of a car that would not start? I'll never know.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I am not familiar with the Honda casting crack but do know that providing a new attachment for the motor mount and sealing the existing crack can be a good solution to the problem in many situations like this. The idea is that stress is removed from the crack area so the crack has no chance of worsening. Suggest that you make a polite request that Honda cover the costs. If they are not agreeable, find out what costs are involved before you go to the trouble to write the zone office for help.
  • nsnnsn Member Posts: 2
    No, its a 4 cyl. I saw a few old posts here about this problem, but never saw any post which says how the problem was solved or what causes this problem. I will be visiting the dealer for the second time next week, and was hoping that if someone knew what the problem was it would be easy to fix. Ideas anybody?
  • kwmartin63kwmartin63 Member Posts: 1
    In looking through the message history, I saw some postings by fritz1224 on a clicking or ticking sound from the driver side of the engine compartment. I have a 2000 V6 Accord and have noticed a clicking sound at idle in park from the driver side of the engine. Was this problem ever diagnosed and if so what was the fix? My V6 has 24k miles on it.
    Thanks.
  • m9431m9431 Member Posts: 38
    I just took delivery of a '02 Accord LX with auto trans. After about 300 miles, I hear a slight 'whine' from the transmission. Shifting into neutral or park eliminates the whine. In drive, under acceleration off the line, it becomes a little louder. Is this normal? (By the way, all my other vehicles were 5-speeds; this is my first auto trans.) I compared it with a '97 Accord LX auto and did not hear anything like that.
  • superman5superman5 Member Posts: 154
    i do my oil changes and other stuff at jeffy lube instead of honda dealer, i just noticed the service required light has been blinking lately, how do i turn this off without going to the dealer? plz help , my car is honda accord LX
  • m9431m9431 Member Posts: 38
    The light can be easily reset but it depends on the year and model, some have a small button to press with a key right on the dash... new models have a different procedure; the procedure should be in your Owner's Manual.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    kwmartin63
    It most likely is the purge control valve that you are hearing and this is a normal duty cycling of the valve.

    m9431
    I can hear a slight whine like noise in the trans on accel but not at idle. You may want to have them check it out but there is no bulletins and no current problems that I know of, so it probably is normal. I know the power steering pumps make a similar noise also and maybe thats what you are hearing. Good luck

    superman5
    If your car is an 98 or higher you can push and hold the trip button down with key off, then turn the key to the run position as you are still holding the button until the light goes out.Usally takes about 15 secounds afterwards release the trip button and the light should stay out..
  • prodigyprodigy Member Posts: 7
    I had a similar very slight transmission whine that I first noticed at about 2000 miles and only in the top gear of the auto trans. The dealer noticed it right away, diagnosed it as the final drive gear, and replaced the trans. The noise is gone and car has worked fine ever since.
  • pundatpundat Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Accord V6 with 24,000 miles and would like to spray and clean the throttle plate & throttle body. The problem is that disconnecting the intake rubber hose at the thottle plate area is very difficult (a lot of small hoses and rigid tubes and wires hanging on it - risk of damage). This service is recommended every 12K miles. If anyone found a way to clean it easily, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  • jluaguejluague Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1990 Accord EX automatic with 134K miles. The "S" light was flashing intermittently. I went to a Honda dealership and diagnosed the problem as a defective Transmission Control Unit (TCM). A new TCM was installed and the transmission fluid was flushed and replaced with Honda ATF. After driving the car for ten miles, the "S" light flashed again. I have observed that when I turn off the engine and start again, sometimes, the "S" light will turn off. Whenever the S-light flashes the shifting points of the transmission changes. As if it has difficulty in searching for the next higher gear. Mainly, the shifting issues are on the 1st to 2nd gear and the car stays more on the higher gears. The problem is mostly happening in the morning start-up. Once, the car has been running or warmed-up, the problem on the shifting and S-light flashing disappear. What other possible problems may have caused this intermittent flashing of the "S" light and difficulty of shifting from 1st to second if the S-light is flashing? Your thoughts are highly appreciated.
  • harry_mazda626harry_mazda626 Member Posts: 16
    Hi guys:
    I have 3650 miles on my July 2001 accord...Is it time for an oil/filter change ??? My car salesman had told me that I should get it done only after 4000 miles...Please advise. What is the ideal mileage/no of months for an oil change ? Should I check for any other thing ??

    -Harry
  • craigs4craigs4 Member Posts: 9
    Harry,
    Hondas come from the factory with a break in additive in the oil. Honda does recommends waiting until 7500 miles for the first oil change. This allows the additive to assist with proper sealing of the rings and bearings etc. My dealer said that if you do not drive much than 6 months is a good time to change it. I also learned the Honda additive is basically a non plating molybdenum additive. This is available from www.mrmoly.com for new engines. I used a can after changing my oil at 6 months and 4500 miles. Be sure to get the one for engine break in as it does not bind to or plate the metal.
  • camryv6camryv6 Member Posts: 42
    Yesterday when i was driving home i hit a kerb with the front right tire at about 15mph. And the car pulls to the right.Is it a simple problem as just having the car alinned or could it be worst .
    Any help is great ...
  • rtfmdudertfmdude Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2001 4cyl Accord. It is still using a distributor system instead of distributorless like the one in the new V6. The distributor cap and rotor will need to be replaced as a maintenance.

    My question is why I can't find anything in the owner's manual regarding replacing the cap and rotor. Even in the schedule maintenance table section.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    The muffler is about gone and just looking at the connection between exhaust pipe B and the muffler, it appears the bolts are an integral part of the connector between exhaust pipe B and the muffler section. These things are generally frozen with rust. How do you remove them without cutting them off. heat and beat I suppose.

    any suggestions
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    No way to tell until you get it on the alignment rack - hopefully nothing was bent, but you should prepare yourself for that possibility. Get it to a dealer with a good alignment rig ASAP.
  • elgritonelgriton Member Posts: 67
    Get a can of good penetrating oil and soak the bolts/nuts with it. Let it work its way thru for a few minutes b4 you attempt to pry it loose. If that doesn't work, then apply a blow torch to it =)
  • midnight6midnight6 Member Posts: 1
    98 accord seatbelt light goes on and off while driving. The seatbelt is engaged, but the seatbelt light continues to flash, or stay on when the driver seatbelt is buckled. About 4 months ago several fuses burnt out for no apparent reason. Could this have anything to do with this new problem?
  • camryv6camryv6 Member Posts: 42
    JRCT9454- Do i have to bring it to the dealer? I was going to bring it to sears. The wheel doesn't look bent. And the car pulls to the right alittle.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    If alignment is the only problem, then any good shop will do, though I'm not sure I would classify Sears as a good shop. A bent wheel is not the issue, though that could easily have happened - I would be much more concerned about a bent suspension piece. Sure, get the alignment fixed first, and if that solves the problem, fine...
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    '89 Accords do not have any wheel alignment provisions other than adjustable toe. The front suspension will have to be inspected for bent/damaged components.
  • db3058db3058 Member Posts: 5
    To follow up on ticking sound from drivers side, I repaired by pulling the speedometer cable from the top of the 5-speed transmission, removing the cable and greasing it. It occurred during acceleration and was worse when the car was initially driven, after sitting overnight.
  • wcscraigwcscraig Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a '98 Accord EX-V6 coupe with 55K miles (auto trans), and I've noticed a couple of times that it hesitates when accelerating from a stop. No problems in performance otherwise. Could this be due to the fact that it's close the 60K maintenance interval? Any ideas?

    Anyone else experienced this with a '98 Accord?
  • silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    The rack and pinion gearbox is leaking a little ps fluid on my 91 Accord. The local dealer says to replace the complete assembly (around $650). What is your opinion?
  • camryv6camryv6 Member Posts: 42
    I dont think im going to bring in my accord for an aliment because its only puuling a little to the right. And my car is already 11 years old.
  • mikemwmikemw Member Posts: 5
    camryv6 take it to sears and let them sell you a BUNCH of stuff you don't need. then you can take it to get it fixed.

    auburn, are you a tech? what part of the world
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