Lease Questions - Ask Here

rivertown · March 2003

Why do you think leases are so fine for

1) people who do not want the headaches of owning a car past it's bumper-to-bumper warranty? What headaches, in the 1st place? And why do you think buying and then selling before the warranty ends is a poorer alternative to leasing?

2) people who do not drive all that many miles? I can see why high miles loads anti-lease, but I can't see why low miles loads pro-lease.

3) who have the ability to write off the depreciation? Does not eligability to write off depreciation apply equally to purchase and lease?

Not that I understand leasing very well at all, but it seems to me that the unique benefits are limited to cutting payment size (driving more car than you can afford to buy) and pre-arranging disposal time certain, for which one pays significant fees and usually pays an interest premium.

I really don't get the financial case for leasing. The convenience case, I get.

bottgers · March 2003

......there is no financial case for leasing.

sergeym · March 2003

It is simple. Here is an example. In March 2002 I leased a BMW 540ia. The residual value for the car was set by BMW at 61%. They also had a decent money factor of .0021(5.04%). MSRP was $60,720 (paid $57,500) and the residual(61%) - $37,000. The real world trade in for a 3 year old BMW540 equipped like mine and with 36K miles is only around $30K. So if I had bought it, then 3-year usage would cost me $7K more that when leasing. Lease of a car with artificially high residual and low money factor is better than financing. BTW you should never lease for 60 month since it defeats the purpose which is to drive latest and safest technology.

sergeym · March 2003

There is another may be the most important factor that makes leasing a better choice for me. I do not care about a leased car. If the car gets scratched, gets into an accident or something. I simply do not care. That's the leasing company's problem. I am not talking about money here it is about absence of any emotional attachment to the car. So when the car is damaged I do not get upset. Its not my car why should I care.

rivertown · March 2003

I see your example, Sergey; and it makes sense. "Artificially high residual" says it all. I also get the bad idea of a long term lease.

Sergey or anybody, do you think residuals are commonly that far out of line with actual used car value?

colie74 · March 2003

Responding to rivertown, HI, new around here and new to leasing, but I just had to respond to your questions above. I have had my own experiences that really do have meaning to your questions, like.

"1) people who do not want the headaches of owning a car past it's bumper-to-bumper warranty? What headaches, in the 1st place? And why do you think buying and then selling before the warranty ends is a poorer alternative to leasing?"

First of all I have an almost 3 year old car that I financed. It has been in the shop soooo many times for so many different things, some of which are on their 3rd repair to fix the same thing. Headache? You BET!!! As of now, I don't want to keep this car past it's bumper to bumper warrenty. I have no desire to pay out of my pocket for things that are more likely considered defects than wear and tear, like, a power window shorting out, vibration in the steering column and a leak in the trunk. It's a 20K piece of junk and I am sooo upset that I actually bought it. Now if I was to trade it in being only 3 years old, the most amount I would get would be the loan paid off and maybe 1K back. And that is my experience with trade ins every time. They don't need another used car at my areas dealers, so they don't give you beans for a car that is still being financed. So to lease it, would have been better, I could have had lower payments and then given it back at the end bc I don't want it anyways. It has been a huge headache. Buying and selling during the warrenty period on a financed vehicle is worse than leasing bc I had higher monthly payments and it is such a huge hassle to try and trade in a vehicle still being financed. The most I will get is the loan paid off. Basically the same as leasing except I had higher monthly payments during the period I paying on it, vs leasing it.

To answer number 2. I only drive maybe 8K miles a year. So to lease, would be a wonderful alternative for myself, knowing I won't have to pay any extra money for high mileage. Also, having low miles on a car means no more value as far as a trade in.

Anyway, leasing does make sense for some. I wish I would have leased my car I have now, If I did, I would have had lower payments, wouldn't have had to put anything down (and loose that $) and would be giving it back around the time the warrenty is up, which is what I have to do now because of so many problems with it. But now I have the hassle of trying to trade it in.

Hope that makes sense to you. Not everyone is blessed with a car that has been hassle free the whole time they have had it. I thought this would be the car I kept, and then all the problems started and now I can't wait to get rid of it. You also learn alot about the dealer and their customer service when bringing it in soo many times. If they hadn't been open on Saturdays, I would have been even more inconvenienced. They aren't total quality when it comes to customer service and I won't be giving them my business again.

So here's to another thumbs up to going import this time!!!!

Take care,
Nicole

hosimian · March 2003

on a few vehicles for March (money factors and residual values). For any vehicle I am interested in a 48 month lease with 12k miles per year. The car has to be a manual transmission.

1. 2003 VW GTI 1.8T
2. 2003 Toyota Matrix XRS
3. 2003 Mazda 6i and 6s

By the way, if anyone is interested in leasing a 2003 Honda Civic Si, I believe the 12k mile, 48 month residual is 52% and the money factor is .00078. It's a good deal on a pretty nice little car. We just got one about a week ago. I've heard in some areas of the country they are selling under invoice price, as well, but I haven't been able to definitively confirm this. Don't know if these numbers are good for other 2003 Civics, though.

By the way, Car man, this is a great service you are providing for people. I've been negotiating lease deals for myself, my friends, and my family for years, and from experience I can definitely say that most dealers try to rake people over the coals with lease deals. I've always had to fight like crazy to get a legitimate price. It's great to have an equalizer, since residuals are very rarely disclosed in car ads and money factors never are, even though APRs are advertised all over the place. There should really be a law. I mean, a better law.

Maybe I'm just unlucky, but I have NEVER had a salesman calculate a lease properly on the first try (even when he admits what the money factor and residual are). I've always had to say, "No, sorry, my calculation comes to $45 per month less than that." Then they go in the back for a few minutes and come out again with a different number. I realize a lot of car salesmen are on the sleazy side, but it still annoys me and makes for an uncomfortable process.

By far my worst experiences have been with Toyota dealerships. Last month I went to one to get money factor and residuals on a Matrix XRS, and the salesman brought his manager over who asked me suspiciously, "What are you going to do with those numbers? Why do you want them?" I laughed and replied, "I'll need them if I'm going to buy the car." Then, I think, he gave me bogus residual values. He said about 44% for 48 months. Three weeks earlier I was told (by the same dealership!) the residual was about 51%. The dealerships have been the number one reason I have never purchased a Toyota, a company that makes a lot of fine and very reliable vehicles.

logan13 · March 2003

I ordered an 03 325 wagon at the end of Feb. I locked in .00150 money factor for 60 days with BMW. Dealer called me today and said my car is in the "week 16 build". What does that mean?

bobo36 · March 2003

Unless you drive alot of miles like 20000 or over a year or your the type that buys a car every decade buying a car is such a huge waste of money. I know you want to own it. Great! Banks own it and buy the time you own you can have it because it's time for repairs and repairs are what keeps these car companies in business. It's a very simple formular. You have to forget about the price of the car. Think what your driving costs is and I'll show you how to figure it out. First you take the MSRP or the selling price of the car. For example say $20,000 then deduct the residual which is what the car company says the car will be worth in 2 years for this example and make it $13,000 and then take your depreciation which depending on where you live and how you drive is on average $1500 per year. To calculate the payment take the depreciation which is 1500 divide by 24 months and that equals ????? Then add monthly interest of 1% on the price and that equals ?????Add those together and there is your lease payment. Now at the end of your lease you have OPTIONS unlike people who buy and have negative equatity. YOU'LL NEVER BE AT NEGATIVE EQUATIY IF YOU LEASE. Your options are to buy out the car or sell the car to whom ever you want to at a profit if you leased a smart car like a BMW or a Toyota. Trade the car in for the newest model but if you buy your screwed. Interest on 5 years of money and it's compounding interest and if you don't know what that is take the time to figure it out. Don't think because your loan book is all $388 a month is what your paying. COMPOUND INTEREST is not your friend. Like I said earlier buy the time 5 years is over your car is on a lift then it is on the highway and labor rates are about $90 an hour. There's 3 different kinds of leases. I showed you an open end lease. Don't let the EGO of a man talk you into buying because he doesn't know what he's talking about unless you drive a ton of miles or you want the same car forever. LEASING IS SUCH A MISUNDERSTOOD FRIEND. Any questions on the other types email me I'd be happy to explain them to you and they're easy. Believe me I'm an idiot and I understand them. One last example. The dealership I work at. ALl 14 managers lease and so doesn't all the mechanics.

bobo36 · March 2003

I don't want to hog the airways but some people won't read my long description of a lease vs buying. Email me before you buy and I'll show you how stupid it is to buy almost everytime. I'll show you facts vs the old what some guy told me. kgalvin333@attbi.com

leatherneck151 · March 2003

Car_Man, I need some HONEST help. What should I do? Here's the situation -

Had a '97 Chev. c1500 with a 350, ran premium (had HypertechIII) and got scared with gas prices in 99. (yeah, go figure) So. I traded it on a '98 Maxima to lower payments and save gas.

Six months LATER, i Traded it in, (couldn't Stand a car) so, I was Waaaaaaay upside down(7-8000) going into this next one. which is where i am now:

2001 Chev. Silverado
LEASED through Felco AutoLease (now defunct but doing business) I was over 120% or something (still dont' get that.) 63 month lease

allowed 15K/yr. but right now I already have 53,000. and I pay .15/mi over.

right now, my payoff is about $20,800, but i KNOW edmunds, KBB, and NADA won't give me more than 12500 on trade-in, (high milage) and it's a work truck, so dings are present.

i know my residual in JANUARY 2006! is $14,707. What do i do? my truck is worth Less Now, than what i'll have to pay for in 01/06.
Do i take the Hit right now, get out while mileage charges would be 2000-2500 Now? or at the End, when it'll be over $5000 ! (yeeouch)

I will be buying my next truck, period. But, should i try to get un-Upside-down now? or wait?

here's another question: can i roll all that Neg. Equity into a Cheaper truck, like a used beater truck used only for work( less than 15,000 sticker) and roll every thing into That loan? and how does that 120% lending thing figure into it? Thanks for your help!

BTW, i originally got the truck when i was with another company and didn't put miles on it, NOR use it as a TRUCK, just a bigger vehicle, and keep payments Low ($387/mo).

And.. if anyone Else has ideas, please respond as well. Thanks guys !

CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi Gabe, Steve, Nicole, and hosimian. Welcome aboard

. I haven't seen many manufacturers' new March lease programs yet, but should be able to answer the majority of your questions in a few days. Please drop me a quick reminder then and I would be more than happy to help you out.

Car_man
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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi leatherneck151. I am sorry to say that you have gotten yourself into a very difficult situation. In your post you stated "Do i take the Hit right now, get out while mileage charges would be 2000-2500 Now? or at the End, when it'll be over $5000 ! (yeeouch)" Unfortunately your bank will not let you out of your lease now. The only way for you to get out of your leased vehicle at this point would be to purchase it. Which is good in the sense that you would not be liable for any excess mileage charges, but is obviously very bad because you are likely very upside down on your pickup at this time. There is not really any inexpensive solution to your problem. If I was in your shoes, I probably would continue driving the truck until right before my scheduled termination date. At that time, I would call the bank that this lease is through to see if they would be willing to negotiate its lease-end purchase price, not mentioning the fact that it is so far over mileage. There is a good chance that they will be willing to negotiate its lease-end purchase price. If you would like to continue driving the truck or if the difference between its purchase price and what it is worth in the real world is less than your excess mileage penalty then I would seriously consider purchasing it at that time.

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ricoinva · March 2003

After a bit of negotiation, I have a quote of $353/month, with only first payment due at signing, on a stripped down 9-3 Linear. This would be for 36 months at 15,000 miles/year.

Seems pretty good to me. Any thoughts?

kyfdx · March 2003

2003 325IA..leather, steptronic, metallic paint, heated seats, leather, premium pkg, destination. MSRP $34,895. Invoice $32,025. Not a whopping spread to work with there. I wonder how low you can go? I figured 3yr/45K lease at $433+tax per month, using $33575 as cap cost(invoice+$1000+550acquisition fee) and just first payment and title fees up front. Good deal on $35k car, I guess, but still a chunk of change. At invoice, about $30 less per month, but I guess I'm dreaming there, huh?

Thanks

zap139 · March 2003

Does anyone have any experience dealing with GMAC Smartlease? I am trying to help my mother out with her '00 Olds Intrigue. She wants the car, which goes off lease the end of April '03. I think the purchase price is a little high (13,292). I called GMAC and they said they don't negotiate period. Is this true? What should I do to try to work out a deal with them?

tia

texangirl · March 2003

Hello,
I wasn't prepared when I purchased my 2001 accord in Dec. 2001. I was talked into a monthly payment of $400 for 48 mos and residual of about 10K. Leasing isn't for me but I have 33 mos remaining on my lease. The payoff amt is $19,800. Which is about 6K upside down. Any suggestions on how I could get out of this with the least amount of pain? I appreciate your help!

CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi Kyfdx. I am sorry to say that it is very unlikely that you would be able to purchase or lease a 2003 325i at dealer invoice. Even $1,000 over invoice is lower than the prices that I have seen this car selling for. On a side note, BMW just introduced 2.9% special financing for up to 60 months on this model. This might be a good option for you if you are not completely sold on leasing this car.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi zap139. Some banks will not negotiate their lease-end purchase prices. I have not specifically heard this about GMAC though. Unless they have some sort of insurance that limits their exposure on your mother's car, I would think that they would be more than happy to negotiate its lease-end purchase price rather than take a huge hit on it at auction. You may have better luck getting GMAC to work with you on this car's purchase price if you work your way up the ladder a few rungs to a manager. It often turns out that consumers' initial contact at banks does not have the authority to negotiate. Good luck.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi texangirl. I am sorry to say that it is going to be fairly expensive for you to get out of your lease this early. As you have already determined it is very likely that you are significantly upside down on your current lease. As a result, it is not in your best interest to purchase it now and try to trade it in or sell it on your own. Banks often will lower their lessees lease-end purchase prices, however when they are guaranteed another 33 monthly payments from you there is little incentive for them to do so. I highly doubt that they will lower your purchase price at this time. Your only other viable option is to find someone who is willing to assume your current lease. Unfortunately given the fact that you did not get a good deal on this car, that is easier said than done. In order to entice someone to assume your payments, you would likely have to subsidize the monthly payment, again costing you money. Your least expensive option is to continue driving your Accord and chalk up the high monthly payment to a lesson learned. Sorry that there is not a better solution to your problem.

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kyfdx · March 2003

As always, thanks for your info and advice.

silvercrown · March 2003

Hi Car_Man,

Are the March leasing rates available yet? If so, can you tell me the money factors and residuals on a 3 year, 15K miles/year lease for a Nissan Altima 2.5S and a Pontiac Grand Am GT. My friend is hoping to buy in a couple of weeks.

Thanks so much.

SilverCrown

gperr · March 2003

Car_man,

Another friend is interested in the TL-S (non-nav). Can you provide the March Res. & MF for 24, 30, & 36 month 12K miles. Thanks again.

gperr

lease_rx300 · March 2003

I am wondering if I have a good lease deal on my hands for a 2003 Lexus RX300 FWD with Value Package (no NAV). I posted in the Lexus RX300 board and someone suggested I post here to find out the money factor and residual. I've been given .00155 for money factor and 20,070 for residual on a 36K lease, 12k miles. So are my money factor and residual good?

Thanks

ncjudge · March 2003

Car_man,
I did read your reply about the February Saab 9-3 lease program, but I need the details for March. I would like the money factor and residual for the 9-3 Linear model for a 36 month/15k miles per year lease. Also, if you can, please give me the March incentive info on the 9-3.
Thanks a lot.

(can you also give me Infiniti G35 sedan info for the same mileage and term?)

the_heidi · March 2003

lease_rx300

We have been offered an AWD RX300 w/ sticker of $39636 for $459/mo with all initiation fees waved for a 39 month, 12K/yr lease. The residual was quoted at 21,400 or 54% of MSRP. This sounds fairly similar to your deal.

mfullmer · March 2003

Ok, I know it's going to probably be discouraging but I'd like to know the going rate/residual for the following: Southeast Region

'03 Buick Regal GS
'03 Buick Lesabre Celebration

24 and 36 month numbers would be great.

Thanks,

lease_rx300 · March 2003

the_heidi

thanks for your info. It does sound close to my deal. In your deal you mention sticker price. Is your deal based on sticker price or have you negotiated a better price?

icdchess · March 2003

Car_Man
Any luck on the March MF/residuals on the base Mini in New York. 15,000 a year?
Thanks.
Steve

meemo87 · March 2003

Car_man, is there any lease support for the 4Runner for the month of March? Also, looking for residuals and money factor for a 2003 Sport Edition on a 39 month lease with 15,000 miles/yr.

rosen31 · March 2003

Car Man, Just a quick reminder. Do you have the March money factor and residual for 2003 Acura TL and TLS for 36 month lease. Looking at either 12k or 15k miles per year.

Thanks!

numeromano · March 2003

Car_man, can you provide the MF and Res % for a 36mo/15K/yr lease through Lincoln on a Lincoln Aviator Premium AWD with MSRP of $47,380. Do you also have factory to dealer incentives on this car or do I have to get that elsewhere?

Can you provide same on a 2003 Acura MDX Touring AWD w/NAV?
Thanks.

tgp1810 · March 2003

I have money that I saved up for my next car. I'm waiting for the Arc and I would be getting a lease. Is it better to put that money down as cap reduction or save it, don't put any money down, and use it to start/help make the monthly payments?

mookie14 · March 2003

been a while since we chatted but i have a question as you know or maybe not hum im loving my tblazer oh yes i am. but now i have situation the Ford which goes back in sept this yr i will have paid all my pymts cleaned it up to the point of well like i got it. but this is where it gets hard or maybe not mileage fees. what can i do i want to have ALL there $$$$ when i turn it in but i know im not going to have it when sept comes around. i will have it like oct or nov or better yet what can i do?????? respond car man ok thanks.ps car man im like 21000 over the amt like 3300.00 so thats it im waiting for yourn response thanks.

CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

No problem, kyfdx. I am glad that I was able to help you out.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi SilverCrown. I have had the opportunity to take a look at the lease programs for the vehicles that you are interested in. Here is the information that you are looking for. If you were to lease a 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5S through Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp. this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00170 and 53%, respectively. As far as the Pontiac goes, if you were to lease a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT through General Motors Acceptance Corp. this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease rate and residual value should be 3.5% and 50%, respectively. In certain parts of the country, General Motors is providing $1,750 lease cash on the 2003 Pontiac Grand Am that may be used to reduce this car's capitalized cost.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hey gperr, you're in luck. Acura just introduced a new special lease program for the first time on the current generation TL this month. I don't know the exact details yet, but should be able to find them out tomorrow. I will let you know what I have been able to find out.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi lease_rx300. Welcome to the Finance, Warranty, and Insurance Message Board

. I would be more than happy to take a look at the deal that you have been quoted. Lexus Financial Services' base lease money factor and residual value for the 2003 RX 300 2WD without Navigation are currently .00131 and 55%, respectively. This money factor is lower than the one that you were quoted. There are two possible explanations for why this is the case. One is that you are having your vehicle's lease security deposit waived in exchange for an increase in the lease money factor that is used to calculate your monthly lease payments. The other possible explanation is that the dealership that you are working with is marking up LFS' base lease money factor in order to add additional profit to your deal.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hey ncjudge. Here is the info that you're looking for. If you were to lease a 2003 Saab 9-3 Linear Sedan through Saab Financial Services Corp. this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00057 and 50%, respectively. In addition to this special lease money factor, Saab is providing $2,000 dealer cash on this model that bay be used to negotiate a lower capitalized cost.

As far as the Infiniti G35 goes, if you were to lease a 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan with Leather through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per this month, their base lease money factor and residual value should be .00184 and 54%, respectively. This factor was actually enhanced slightly for the month of March. This is the first time that Nissan has every provided any sort of lease support on this car, though it is a very low amount of support.

Car_man
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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi mfullmer. Let's take a look at this car's current lease program. If you were to lease a 2003 Buick Regal through General Motors Acceptance Corp. in your neck of the woods this month for 2 years with 15,000 miles per year, their base lease rate and residual value should be 3.5% and 57%. Their numbers for an otherwise identical lease of a 2003 Buick LeSabre should be 3.5% and 59%, respectively. These cars' 3 year lease rates would be exactly the same, but their residual values would fall to 48% and 50, respectively. These cars' residual values are actually much better than one would think that they should be because General Motors artificially inflates them in an effort to provide consumers with more attractive lease payments.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi Steve. I am very sorry to say that there aren't many Mini dealers out there and that I do not personally know anyone who works at a Mini point who I can get this information that you are looking for from, yet. I'll dig around to see what I can come up with, but I definitely can not promise that I will be able to find out the answer to your question. Sorry that I couldn't be of more help.

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hosimian · March 2003

Did you get a chance to find out money factors and residuals for the cars below? I'm looking for a 48 month lease with 12k miles per year. The car has to be a manual transmission, and I live in Western PA.

1. 2003 VW GTI 1.8T
2. 2003 Toyota Matrix XRS
3. 2003 Mazda 6i and 6s

Thanks!

CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Hi meemo87. Although Toyota's incentives vary by region, I do not believe that they have lease support on the 2003 4-Runner in any parts of the country this month. So if you were to lease one through Toyota Financial Services, you would have to use their standard lease program. According to the most recent information that I have seen, Toyota's current 39 month 15,000 miles per year standard lease money factor and residual value for the 2003 4-Runner Sport Edition 4WD should be .00230 and 59%, respectively. If I was in the market for a new 4Runner right now I personally would consider financing it rather than leasing it. Toyota is currently running a special financing program that provides 2.9% special financing for up to 36 months and 3.9% from 37 to 60 months on all of its models in many of its regions. This is a very attractive deal on this truck. Speaking of the 4Runner I had an opportunity to drive a 2003 4-Runner Limited this weekend and was extremely impressed with it.

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CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

You're in luck, rosen31. Acura just introduced a new special lease program for the first time on the current generation TL this month. I don't know the exact details yet, but should be able to find them out tomorrow. I will let you know what I have been able to find out.

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silvercrown · March 2003

Hi Car_man,

Thanks for the info. I have one question: what do you mean by base lease rate? Is it same as the money factor, just expressed as a percentage? That difference in terminology confused me.

TIA
SilverCrown

silvercrown · March 2003

Hi Car_man,

I am interested in the Mazda 6s info for myself, (the other info is for my friend). Although I plan to purchase if I decide to buy the 6, I'm curious about the current leasing info. I am particularly curious about the projected residual value. Can you give me the residuals and money factors for a 3 year lease, 12K and 15K miles/year for the Mazda 6s?

Thanks again.

SilverCrown

clpurnell · March 2003

Car_Man,

Could you help me out with mf and resids fro the following for 36 months and 15k. Are they different if you chose the bigger engine? This is in Texas by the way.

XLT 4x2 Popular
XLT 4x2 Premium

CarMan@Edmunds · March 2003

Thanks for re-posting your initial question, numeromano. Here is the information that you are looking for. If you were to lease a 2003 Lincoln Aviator Premium AWD through Ford Motor Credit this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, their base lease rate and residual value should be 4.50% and 47%, respectively in most parts of the country. I would be aware of any consumer or dealer cash incentives that are available on this truck, however unfortunately there are not any at this time. That is other than conquest cash for current owners and lessees of certain General Motors and Jeep models.

I suspect that I will have a chance to take a look at Acura's March lease program at some point today. I will let you know what I am able to find out about the MDX.

Car_man
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icdchess · March 2003

Car_man
Don't sweat it. You have been such a tremendous help to me in the past. Actually, my secretary came prancing in this morning and asked me to come outside and see her spanking new Mini. She was apparently going to lease it anyway (no matter what you or I said). It listed for 19,995 and she put down $1872.25 and she is paying $296.92 for 36 months. That includes the 8 1/2% New York State Sales Tax. She was so anxious to get it that my warnings not to just take the dealer's first offer went unheeded. I appreciate all your help. You have already made 4 leases more cost effective for me. And there may possibly be an X-type in my near future. I'll be back (as Arnold was heard saying). Thanks
Steve

ribbonking · March 2003

Car_Man

Well, I've used up the lease extension on my current vehicle and have to move to a new car by the end of March. Here are the cars I am considering and would appreciate it if you could give the MF and Residuals for the following vehicles. Sorry for the long list. I'm in southern California and will lease for 36 months (15,000 miles annually) unless there is a hot deal on a 39 month program with a manufacturer. Here goes - all are '03's

Acura TL and TL-S
Infiniti I35
Infiniti G35
Lexus ES300
Lexus GS300
Honda Accord EX V6 Leather
Nissan Maxima GLE

Thanks in advance, Car_Man. Sorry for the long list. As always, I appreciate your help.

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