Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Sounds as if your rear pads are bad. Have you had them inspected?
  • bowkebowke Member Posts: 169
    ...the comments you put on the board in the accord room are very valid concerns...just remember 1 thing: average fuel mileage on the window sticker is an EPA rating, not a manufacturer rating. call the EPA and ask exactly what the conditions were when testing the car...maybe you can duplicate them.
  • npkbnpkb Member Posts: 25
    Just returned from a road trip and I think my '02 Accord LX is noisy (has 1.7K miles on it). I've owned a Camry for 4 yrs and in comparision, I don't like the Engine noise at start up / low speeds. Also the Wind noise on the highways is so IRRITATING. I wonder if the dealer can do anything about it.

    Also, sometimes when I park in Sun for 5-6 hrs straight, my car cranks but does not start. Found several TSBs about this on NHTSA.
    I love the car and its maneuverability and responsiveness, though.

    What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
  • 02mdx02mdx Member Posts: 64
    auburn63: As expected, you called it! I took a look at the inside fire wall area where the clutch is and sure enough, there was fluid leaking. It's headed for the shop tomorrow as I am not brave enough to take on a Master Cylinder replacement. Thanks, you are a true asset to this board.
  • talkcarstalkcars Member Posts: 8
    Markz2k, reliability is the question for me. I agree about the seats but didn't find the Camry or Impala any more comfortable than the Accord. All seats are low even with power. Camry seats might be a tad higher but car is 2k more. Actually Toyota raised the Camry seats in 2002. With the reductions, the price of the Accord SE is an excellent value. Might regret it though if I decide on it.
  • timadamstimadams Member Posts: 294
    talkcars, it sounds like you don't like the seating in modern sedans/coupes. Have you tried the Honda or Toyota car-based SUVs like the CRV, Pilot, RAV4 or Highlander? I have a friend who had his wife trade in a Mitsu Galant for a CRV. His back gives him problems and he can't stand to sit in a car for long, but can sit in the more upright seats that come in a CRV or Highlander.

    I don't often think that an SUV is the answer, but this may be a case where one is. These are, after all, nothing more than tall station wagons.
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    I know you want a car that is very reliable. The comments on this board show that even cars like Hondas with good reputations will have problems.

    Maybe you should try to find a car that is easy to repair. Go to a local service center that you trust and ask them which cars are easiest to fix. If you buy a car like that, at least the problems you have will be simpler to fix.

    For me, the most important thing is to buy a car that I truly enjoy driving. Reliability is secondary.
  • npkbnpkb Member Posts: 25
    What do you guys think of post #3205.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Glad to be of service and hope that's all you need..Should be but you cant tell about the life of the clutch until a new master is installed...Good luck
  • 02mdx02mdx Member Posts: 64
    Ended up replacing the Master Cylinder and the Slave Cylinder. The Master Cylinder wasn't pushing any hydraulic fluid through, and the Slave cylinder was a precautionary replacement. The shop says that the clutch is still making a noise when engaged (something about the fork in the clutch mechanism?) which they say is an indicator that the clutch may need to be replaced soon. Something about the lubrication in the sealed clutch is probably gone and there is no way of adding to it. So the verdict is I might get a week out of the old clutch or I might get a year??? Do you agree? What would be the sign that my clutch needs replacing... slipping?

    BTW, auburn63 = Auburn Tigers???
  • maq4463maq4463 Member Posts: 45
    Here is long and short of my story.

    Couple of months back I had two lug nuts replaced by a cheap shop on my 90 Accord 189k, who over tightened the flange bolt on the wheels. That caused the warped rotors. Steering wobbled when I braked around 70mph, but very small shake less than 50. I took the car to local honda dealer who recommended disk resurface and new pads, I also had alignment done. By the way I have brand new tires, balanced.

    Before I took back the car the service guy told me that the disk is now almost down to legal limit. After the resurface the shake was completely gone form driving but as soon as I hit the brake a SEVERE shake?? Took it back to the dealer and they claimed innocence i.e. they informed me about the brake disk being cut to minimum and if there is still shake disks have to be replaced. The agreed to cut the labor in half if I choose to have it done. That $350 included only disk remplacement and they warned that at these miles wheel bearings will have to be replaced too. Quoted me $100 for each wheel bearing, honda list price is $49.42. I decide to wait.

    Hang on here with me guys, its a long one. Being p***ed at there laughable prices, I have original honda service manual so I decide to tackle it myself, not gona spend $500+ dollars. So now I have replaced new brake disks with wheel bearings and pads. Brake wobble/shake is completely gone when I press the padle, but now I have again steering shake on normal driving over 55mph.

    Question is what have I done wrong during replacement of rotors that is causing the steering shake. I have torqued each and every nut and bolt according to honda specs. What then is wrong?? Sorry about the long and frustrating post. Any ideas...
  • dash400mdash400m Member Posts: 55
    Quick reference... Here's the mint Civic that I mentioned earlier this year. Sorry, but I can't stick around since this is an Accord forum.


    --> http://www.hondabeat.com/hbeat/highmiles.cfm


    The new paint (PPG) adhered well on this old steel bucket. The body shop had the car for almost four months.

  • pkcicco1pkcicco1 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone with an Accord I-4 experience a creeky gas pedal? When you feather the gas or at initial depression it feels like your stepping on rice crispies. The car only has 7K on it and it drives me crazy especially when in traffic. The dealer cleaned and lubed the accelerator cable but that didn't do it. I think its the pedal itself. Any suggestions from anyone?
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    Are you sure there isn't something under the stem of the gas pedal that's causing the noise, ie. is the carpet bunched up under the pedal?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    02mdx
    The clutch noise is probably just the pivot ball that the clutch arm pivots on and will not cause much harm. Other than that if it is like a "errt" sound then it is the clutch springs and again usaly dont mean much. The clutch will slip, give a high hard pedal and or chatter badly when it is bad. Let it ride and see how it feels and sounds. Also Auburn as in Tigers/WarEagles, college in Alabama.

    maq4463
    Sounds as if you just need to have the tires re-balanced at this point. A shimmy without touching the brakes is rarely a brake shimmy.

    dash400m
    Thats great man, the moon mobile is still looking new and ready to go when NASA needs it..lol..Keep on rollin'
  • bowkebowke Member Posts: 169
    ...i had an old mustang 4-cyl...when the clutch was about to go, there was a severe shaking of the car when i let the clutch out...i did some research, and this is the very last sign of a doomed clutch (friction) plate...the asbestos, or whatever material they use now, starts to break apart, and soon, you wont be going anywhere at all. the problem may be somewhere else, but if you get this, then TOW the car in if you dont do it yourself...by the way, replacing the friction plate in a FWD car is FAR more difficult than doing it in a RWD 'stang...lol.
  • 02mdx02mdx Member Posts: 64
    Thanks for your help. My clutch was making similar sounds prior to the recent problems, so I think you are correct when you say it's the pivot ball or clutch arm. It gives me a little peace of mind to hear it.

    I'm a Bama boy myself, ROLL TIDE!! However, my sister graduated from AU and I have a lot of respect for the school and the program (unlike most Bama fans!). As long as it's not the Iron Bowl, GO TIGERS!!
  • pkcicco1pkcicco1 Member Posts: 3
    The carpet/mat was the first thing I checked. I think it has something to do with the spring mechanism attached to the stem or the plastic/rubber pedal itself. I'm gonna make another appointment with the dealer today and hope they can identify & correct it. Its very annoying.
  • pkcicco1pkcicco1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 SE and coming from a Olds Alero GLS the I-4 in the honda is quieter and smoother than the V6 I had in the Olds. As far as wind noise is concerned I had a problem with both driver side doors being slightly out of alignment. The dealer fixed it and I'm wind noise free. There is a little more wind roar than I'd like but the culprit is the fold away side mirrors which is just the design. Honda's traditionally don't isolate you completely from road and engine noise like a toyota does and I've read that its by design.
  • bcarwellbcarwell Member Posts: 10
    Boy am I a dummy. The noise is the break warning sensor telling me the pads are worn.
    The sensor tells you before any serious damage is done. Replaced the pads, cleaned up the rotors and am good for another 37k miles.
    I treat this car like a rented mule. Heavy traffic, lots of stops and starts, high speed spurts when I can, on and off the breaks, fast cornering... no problems... I do the pms' evry 3k or less. I must be lucky judging from the problems found here..
  • cards_200cards_200 Member Posts: 44
    I have trouble with my accelerator pedal (linkage ?) sticking / snaging the very first time after each start-up. I have to press quite hard to free it up. Subsequent times it is ok. I think I remember seeing a similar write-up but can no longer find it. Thanks for any help on this. '99 4 cyl.
  • bowkebowke Member Posts: 169
    cards_200...that is your throttle linkage...needs to be cleaned...should be $60-$80 at a dealer...its regular wear and tear on '98-'00 accords. had a customer with it, and the service dept. actually had it up on their regular maintenance board! you should only have to do it every few years, but keep an eye out every 50-75k miles.
  • dbednarz1dbednarz1 Member Posts: 1
    Recently the emergency brake light will not go off. After a few minutes of driving the ABS light comes on. No fluid leaks, the emergency brake works, pedal is not spongy or low.

    How can I fix this? What is causing this?

    Thanks
  • bowkebowke Member Posts: 169
    what year/model?
  • sbchoisbchoi Member Posts: 2
    npkp, I had same problem to start the engine with my 91 accord. I found it was the main relay which seemed to get stuck. It is located under the dash.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    You could have a bad e-brake switch or a grounded wire going to the switch. You also could be low on brake fluid or have a bad float switch as they share the same dash warning light. As for the abs chances are the fluid in the abs res is low and the pump has a code for motor run on due to air being in the system..One last note is that if it is a bad switch or grounded wire then that could trick the abs and cause the light also so check into those.Good luck
  • broncodavebroncodave Member Posts: 26
    I have a 2000 Accord and the clock light has gone out. I checked and saw a TSB on alldata.com but no additional info. I have taken the clock out of the dash and don't know if the problem is inside or what. Only the light is out and the clock still works. Does anyone know of the fix and what are my chances fixing it myself or getting it fixed for free?
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    I've got a question that you may find to be somewhat silly. Motor oil, transmission, coolant, and power steering and brake reservoirs all have Min and Max levels. Is it perfectly OK as long as the fluid levels are between the two lines, even if it is closer to the Min level? Or is it advisable to keep the fluid levels at or close to the Max line? Thanks in advance.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Pop out the clock and replace the little bulb on the outside corner of it. They are the most common but occasionally the clock itself does go bad but most of the time it is the bulb.

    fluid levels
    That is a range of acceptance on the stick with the top being the full correct level and the bottom being the lowest that you should go without adding. I usally try to keep all at the full mark unless I am just a few miles away from a fluid change..
  • th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    My steering wheel buzzes briefly after shifting into Drive from Reverse. It doesn't do it all of the time and the buzzing isn't severe but just a slight vibration as the car starts rolling forward. Is this normal? Thanks.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If it is a 01 - 02 then most likely it is the ABS system. They have made it so that it will do a system check/presurization at times andd it sounds as if that is what your hearing.
  • freshman23freshman23 Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same issue with my '00 Accord. Thanks for the Question and Response, I'll have my dealer clean the Throttle linkage.
  • th83th83 Member Posts: 164
    My car is a 2002 EX, so that's probably it. Thanks for the help.
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    Got a bit over 140K on a 97 IV non vtec/B2 engine and the valve noise from #2 intake-think the "B" side is getting louder. This happens because there is a problem with the lube system. I am assuming the wear occurs on the intake rocker shaft and on the inside surface of the rocker arm that fits over the shaft. I assume both the shaft and rocker arms should be replaced. To do this it looks like all you do is remove the No. 1 cam shaft holder and then the intake rocker shaft will slide out in pieces. Am planning on buying two long intake rocker shafts and both an A and B rocker arm. Do I need any other parts and anything to look out for when doing this job.

    thanks a bunch
  • comboycomboy Member Posts: 8
    Does anybody know: Will a higher wattage headlight bulb burn out fuses or cause other problems? I replaced a burned-out low beam bulb yesterday but later noticed (checking the spare bulb that I also bought that day) that the replacement was 60W, but the original was only 51W. Also, is it normal for a 2000 Accord to already need a new headlight bulb?
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If a valve adjustment is not enough then you will need to replace the cam holder and adjoining rocker shafts.If it is an Ohio made car then you can definitely use the cam holder kit P/N 12010-P0B-305 which comes with what you need other than a valve cover gasket and cam seal. Ask your parts department if it is Japan made if that is still a good number or to be safe have them check the bulletin on calve train noise for that vehicle..Good luck
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Do not know for sure but that doesnt seem like it would be enough to make a differance, as for the blow out that can happen at anytime even with the new one it could blow tomorrow. The 3year 36k warranty would cover it if your still under that..
  • bburton1bburton1 Member Posts: 395
    It is a Japan made vehicle. So not only the rocker arms, intake rocker shaft and the cam shaft holder have to be replaced. You also said the cam seal must be replaced-guess this is the seal used on the camshaft holder.

    WIll ask the service dept if they know if a kit for this japan made vehicle.

    Thanks a lot-will let you know the outcome.
  • jima7jima7 Member Posts: 2
    First, apologies for my previous mis-posting. (I inadvertently created a new category). Here's my question:

    I have a '97 Accord. When it got to about 24,000 miles, the passenger side front window would stick going down. This problem would get worse in cold weather. The only solution Honda had was to lubricate the window run seal. This would make the problem go away for about nine months or so, then it would return.

    At 70,000 miles, the passenger side door lock went. It needed a new actuator - a $210 repair.

    The car now has 76,000 miles, and the passenger side car window is sticking again, and the door will not open from the outside (power lock is screwed up). The last time I was at Honda, they said that to fix the passenger side window problem permanently would require a new window channel and regulator - $360 installed.

    Since I had the original problem at 24,000 miles, I am assuming that if I pay $360 to resolve the problem, the best I can hope for is a window that won't stick for 24,000 miles, at which point I can plunk down another $360.

    Has anyone else experienced this sort of problem? Or did I get stuck with a lemon?

    Thanks.
  • cedarparkcedarpark Member Posts: 26
    Am about to buy a 2002 Camry, but am being scared off by all of the reported paint chip issues and transmission 'clunking' issues with this car that I'm reading about.

    How are the 2002 Honda Accord paint jobs? I personally like the Camry ride better--for me soft, and non-sporty is just fine, but if the paint is goin g to crap out on me, well to heck with it.
  • comboycomboy Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the headlight info. The car is still under warranty. I didn't want to wait, though, since I got pulled over by an officer the night that the headlight went out. Being downtown with all the streetlights, I hadn't even noticed. I went out the next day and bought a replacement and a spare, just to be safe. The officer was great--he just gave me a warning. But it could have been expensive. Thanks again for the info. The bulb switch-out was simple enough that maybe everyone should keep a spare bulb in their trunk.
  • gc1492gc1492 Member Posts: 6
    My Accord is making a thumping sound in the area of the right front tire. Garage says probably transaxle, gearbox problem. Anyone had this problem? Did see an NHTSA 612567 regarding thumping noise has anyone had this problem fixed. Have not seen a dealer yet. Tires are about 12 month old.
    Thanks.
  • brews1brews1 Member Posts: 40
    That is how mine started. 2001 4 cyl with 25K. started with a thumping sound on acceleration, thought it might be a wheel bearing but the Honda dealer said the differential was bad and they had to replace the transmission. Scheduled for next week under warranty.
  • gc1492gc1492 Member Posts: 6
    Thank brews1, Anybody else? I've looked at some history postings that talk about transmission fluids but didn't see ones about needing new transmission. Can you guide me there?

    Today a transmission specialist confirmed my garage mechanic's opinion. So tomorrow it is off to the dealer to see what they say. Sure wish it was still under warranty... but if I can prove this is a known problem I'll push for them to pick up some of the tab if not all of it.

    By the way, transmission specialist says at this stage car should not be driven far. He says transmission was not shifting into overdrive when it should. Am I getting the shaft here?
  • rbruehlrbruehl Member Posts: 85
    I had two replaced until I was wise enough to unload my V-6 Accord for a Toyota Solara V-6. The Toyota Solara transmission shifts as smooth as silk.

    Part of the problem with Honda is their lousy 3 year 36K power train warranty as compared to Toyota, Subaru, and Izuzu etc.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Still at it..?

    I do hope your Solara remains flawless.
  • asethiasethi Member Posts: 76
    I just picked up my I4 Ex Coupe 2 days ago. Now the problem is that I feel the car is not very stable on the highway. I mean, it sort of drifts side to side at random. Kinda like when there's too much wind, but it's just that there's no wind. I can feel the whole car move left/right slightly on highway speeds and it's scary at times, not to mention the constant steering correction that I need to do to keep it going straight. I've checked the cold tire pressure and it's 30 all round, so it should be good. I had driven another accord for test drive and it wasn't handling like this, I don't know what's wrong with this car. Are there any spring spacers or something in the suspension that needs to be taken out at PDI? From my previous experience with honda dealerships, I know it's useless to go back to them about this problem so any suggestions/ideas will be appreciated. I'll have the alignment checked anyways.
  • ironmanterpironmanterp Member Posts: 57
    Article from the LA Times on 2000-2002 Acura/Honda V6 transmission failures can be found here:
    www.latimes.com/la-hy-acura11sep11.story

    An excerpt:
    "Spencer said Honda is confident the problems have been solved.

    He said Honda owners with transmission concerns should call the company's customer service hotline at (800) 999-1009; Acura owners should call (800) 382-2238.

    "We are definitely keeping an eye on this, and if it looks like the issue is growing, we'll take other steps" that could include extending warranties for replacement transmissions that now are covered only by the remainder of the original new-car powertrain warranty of five years or 50,000 miles, Spencer said."
  • asethiasethi Member Posts: 76
    I just picked up my I4 Ex Coupe 2 days ago. Now the problem is that I feel the car is not very stable on the highway. I mean, it sort of drifts side to side at random. Kinda like when there's too much wind, but it's just that there's no wind. I can feel the whole car move left/right slightly on highway speeds and it's scary at times, not to mention the constant steering correction that I need to do to keep it going straight. I've checked the cold tire pressure and it's 30 all round, so it should be good. I had driven another accord for test drive and it wasn't handling like this, I don't know what's wrong with this car. Are there any spring spacers or something in the suspension that needs to be taken out at PDI? From my previous experience with honda dealerships, I know it's useless to go back to them about this problem so any suggestions/ideas will be appreciated. I'll have the alignment checked anyways.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    To take it back to the dealer?

    I can't imagine what the problem could be but let them drive it to see what's going on.
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