Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

sflora · September 2000

This is more in the "problem prevention" category. I have an '00 Accord with an auto transmission. Manual says it's OK to row thru the gears as with a standard. While I don't really have a reason to do this (why buy an automatic if I did?), is there any problem going between D3 and D4 at any given speed? Occasionally I'll start off in D3 then switch to D4 when I'm up to speed. Will this affect the long-term health of my transmission? Dealer service says no, but these are the same guys who wanted to switch out my platinum spark plugs as part of the 15k service, so I thought I'd get another opinion. Thanks.

auburn63 · September 2000

Shifting like that will be just fine.There will be no long term affects and it will be fun every now and then.Happy motoring

mltwin2 · September 2000

auburn63
I have a 1986, yes a 1986 Honda Accord LX 5-speed sedan that I purchased in Nov. of 1985. My wonderful aging dinosaur has been the best car I have ever owned. I replaced the clutch for the first time at 150,000 miles and had major carborater work done at 190,000. Two months ago I had the altinater rebuilt and now my baby has been suffering from a low idle, burning and leaking oil(I keep an eye on the oil level)steadily for the last year. For the last two days it has been loosing power if the idle drops below 0.5 rpm and acts as if it is flooded. To start the car I depress the accellarator to the floor and crank - it starts again and I drive nervous of the next stop I have to make. An acquaintance said I should take it in and have the "puff valve" checked. Is it possible that just a tune-up would solve this. Should I keep this wonderful car, perhaps put a used engine in and paint it's oxidized surface or call it quits.

mltwin2 · September 2000

auburn63
The current mileage is 204,000 on my 86 Honda Accord. It's just broken in isn't it!

auburn63 · September 2000

A tune up may help or maybe even just a new PCV. When they go bad they cause the engine to idle incorrectly.Other than that some dirt may have gotten back into the carburater.If it has ran fine since the work was done and didnt start this right after the alternator then maybe whoever did the carb work would take a look at it for you and give you some ideas.If the car is still in good shape then it is probably worth fixing.

lancerfixer · September 2000

Hey, if there's no rust-through, I say keep it.

dnguyen65 · September 2000

Hello Folks,

I just bought a new Honda Accord LX 2.3 a few
weeks ago. Everything seemed to be fine sofar except that the vehicle tends to pull right at freeway speed(65 mph.) If I keep my steering wheel straight, then the vehicle pulls gradually to the right after~30 secs.

Any advice or insight into how to fix this problem
is greatly appreciated. My email is dnguyen65@hotmail.com.

Duke

canadiancl · September 2000

If your car is only "pulling" gradually after cruising for 30 seconds, then there may be nothing wrong. 30 seconds is a long time. Most cars will drift a bit due to the road crown. From what you are saying, I don't think it is an alignment problem. You can perhaps check the tire pressure. Another possibility is that your steering wheel may not be exactly centered. But I really don't think you have a problem.

butch11 · September 2000

Drive on the left side of a two way road (no traffic in left lane of course) and see if it pulls to the left-if so it's the crown of the road. Check the tire pressure in the front tires-a small difference can make it pull. If there is no difference, maybe a front brake caliper is sticking-that is a very small possibility in my view. Next switch the front tires-if the car the
car pulls to the left-you have a tire problem. When tires have belt problems, they will have a lot of rolling resistance. It is amazing how much a tire problem can affect steering.

The alighnment could be off enough to affect steering-again not likely-my guess would be there is a tire pressure differential-some vehicles are shipped with @40 PSI or more to keep the tires from getting flat spots during transit-the guy responsible for preppring the car could have screwed up.

Let us know what you find.

yubk97 · September 2000

I have an almost 4 month old 2000 Honda Accord Special Edition, it has just over 1800 miles on it -- although I know I am supposed to take the car in for a 3000 mile check-up I can't figure out it that timetable is 3 months or 3000 miles whichever is sooner or if it is a straight 3000 miles rule?
If someone could let me know if I should take the car in to the dealer now or wait until 3000 miles, I would appreciate it!

mames · September 2000

I own a 2000 Accord EX V6 (and love it). Has anyone had a problem with the security system activating for no reason? On three separate occasions my car has started honking and lights flashing when parked in my garage. The car was not disturbed in any way, yet it sounded the alarm. Has anyone else ever had this problem? If so, how did you resolve it?

Thanks

snowman · September 2000

Honda recommends to get your first oil chance at 7500 miles or no earlier than 5K. For maintenance, first scheduled one is at 7.5K.
I think chancing oil at 3K intervals is waisting of money and resources. I use synt.oil and get it chanced every 7.5K. Believe it or not, drained oil still comes out as clear as new bottle.

Just relax and enjoy your car.

canadiancl · September 2000

I assume you don't have an aftermarket system.
I've set off my alarm a couple of times by pressing the panic button by mistake. This happened when I had the key & remote in my pocket and probably leaned against something.

dnguyen65 · September 2000

There is a very good book for car owner to read: Drive it forever ... by Bob Sikorsky. It recommends oil change every 3K or 3 months whichever comes 1st.

wdoran · September 2000

My 1990 accord pulsates at idle upon start-up. It seems it happens more when weather is cool. The engines revs from 1500-2100 rpm in a quick cycle (1-2 seconds). Any ideas on what to check.
The car has 116,000 miles on it.
I also don't know if the timing belt was ever changed, Is there any way to access the belt for inspection that a home mechanic can do? Thanks for any suggestions.

terminalis · September 2000

I noticed the other day that the coolant level in my Accord EX-V6 2000 was at the MIN level. A couple of days later, I checked it again and the coolant level was actually increased (at between MIN and MAX). I guess it has been fluctuating. I brought the car today for oil change, and I mentioned this. After the oil change, they came back to me and said that there was a very slow leak and the "gaskets" had to be replaced. They also told me that I could drive the car until the ordered parts will arrive in 10 days.

Is this fluctuation normal and the dealer is changing the gasket as a precaution? I'm very surprised that gaskets have to be replaced. My car only has about 16000 miles. I've own many cars (mostly domestics), but this is the first time stuffs like this have to be replaced at only 16000miles.

Please let me know. Thanks.

fritz1224 · September 2000

It probably is a normal occurence. I can't give a technical reason as to why, but that's Auburn's forte.

silvercoupe · September 2000

If you are talking about the level in the reserve tank, yes it will fluctuate. When the engine is hot the level will rise because of the expansion of the coolant (liquids expands when heated). When the engine is cold the coolant level should be at the min. level.

What gasket are they going to replace? Maybe the thermostat gasket?

auburn63 · September 2000

A vacuum leak could cause your problem but it would probably do it all the time not just cold so I am thinking you may have a leaking fast idle valve.This valve allows extra air in when car is cold to give it a high idle. As the car warms up the valve slowly closes causing the idle to return to normal. If this valve gets stuck open it will cause the idle fluctuation shortly after start up and last until the car is warm.Then usally but not always it will start to idle normal.If that doesnt sound like it is it let me know and I will give you more ideas..Good luck

Terminalis,
As others have already said it is normal for those levels to fluctuate.I have not yet seen any 2000 Accords need a head gasket. However there is a crossover manifold peice that is known to leak. I think they call it the EGR manifold, but I know it is on the trans side and toward the front.So if this is the part they are talking about then it is a good chance that it is leaking/seaping.That really wouldnt cause the fluctuation but never the less would be a necessary repair.Find out what gaskets they are talking about and let me know.

auburn63 · September 2000

Being that there are two of them my money is on that crossover tube/manifold I was talking about.It goes from one head to the other and has been known to leak. If it is then the job is not extrmely hard to do but isn't a walk in the park either.If I remember I will check on the part numbers to see...

terminalis · September 2000

Thanks so much auburn. As always, I really appreciate your help. Please let me know if you find anything further.

brettwerly · September 2000

Is it possible to program the security system so that the doors lock when the engine is started? Our Toyota Sienna does this and it is a nice feature...

-bwj

butch11 · September 2000

Had a truck that had a vacuum leak only in cold weather-the cold caused something to shrink and then got the snake hiss. When the car is going up and down in revs, open the hood and gently move some of the vacuum around-pushing them into the connections. If you get lucky and the rpm change stops when you do this-you found your problem.

Hope that is the problem-cheap fix hopefully.

silveraccord · September 2000

Hi All,

I have a 2000 Accord DX manual - it's about a year old now. Lately, when I shift from 1st into 2nd and let up the clutch, my car makes what I would describe as a quiet screeching noise, just as the clutch comes all the way up.

Same deal 2nd into 3rd and the problem is most noticeable when the car has just been started.

Any thoughts would be appreciated on what might be wrong.

auburn63 · September 2000

Terminalis,
The part number 19411-P8A-A01 is for the coolant/EGR manifold. So that is nothing major just a small gasket replacement.A few things have to be moved out of the way in order to gain acces but its no big thing..Good luck..

Silveraccord,
If the sound is from under the hood then it most likely is the clutch plate springs squeaking a bit. Unless the noise is real loud or bad then there is no need for repair because they sometimes stop making noise on their own.If they are real noisy then have it diagnosed by a tech and replaced if necessary.If the noise is under the dash then it is the clutch return spring at the pedal.Some lubricant will take care of that one.Good luck

auburn63 · September 2000

I dont know for sure I will ask our PDI/installer.

butch11 · September 2000

Have a 97 accord with I4 (non vtec) and despite very careful valve adjustments, get a lot of what I think is valve noise when the engine is cold and under moderate acceleration. It gets a lot quiet when the oil is at operating temperature.

Have heard same model I4's making a similiar noise-heard someone say it was piston slap. Sounds like a valve out of adjustment to me-any ideas.

auburn63 · September 2000

Durring your valve adjustment was the number 2 cylynder's intake valves out of adjustment more than the others? Mostly in 94-95 models but have seen a few 96-97 where the rocker arms were wearing out and needed to be replaced.Also the valves(as you probably know)need to be adjusted cold if not then they may be out still after adjustment.The only other thing I have seen but the noise is more of a knock is the crank and rod beerings making noise under engine load.This wear is usally caused by the external belts being over tightened.You can do a cylynder cancelation test with slight revs to test this.Thats all I can think of at this point...

auburn63 · September 2000

As far as what I seen in the manual and what the installation tech says the auto lock when in gear is not an option on the factory security system..

berrall · September 2000

My wife's new 2000 Accord Ex with 4 cylinder engine and automatic treansmission makes a hoeling sound at about 68 miles per hour and faster. It sounds like it is coming from the rear tires or rear end of the car. Anyone experienced this?

auburn63 · September 2000

try to gently sway left and right and see if the noise changes, if so it is probably wheel bearings if not then it could be tire noise.Uneven wear on tires causes them to make some strange noises at times. However I suspect that you may have a bearing on it's way out.

berrall · September 2000

The Accord EX only has 600 miles on it so it would surprise me if the tire wear is uneven... do cars sometimes get shipped new with the mounted tires out of balance?

butch11 · September 2000

Is there any way to look at #2 intake rocker arm to see if it is wearing. Have 105K on the engine. If the rocker arm wears, this would make the valve too loose and make it noisy-right. Will tighten the #2 intake a bit and see if that quietens it down.

If you have any suggestions for checking wear on the rocker let me know.

thanks much

terminalis · September 2000

Auburn and others,

I cannot thank you enough guys. Thanks a lot again for your comments.

--terminalis

p.s. BTW, Auburn, what is the other part number for? (19412-P84-A01). You told me that 19411-PBA-A01 is for the coolant/EGR manifold.

terminalis · September 2000

One more thing, just out of curiosity. Could a leakage in the coolant/EGR manifold cause a mild "knocking" during moderate accerelation?(when there is a enough back pressure in the exhaust system, say, at 2000 RPM going up a hill). I'm wondering if such a leakage could raise the octane requirement of the engine, and leads to knocking behavior. I've noticed a mild "knocking" of the engine in my Accord, especially when it's loaded (like going up a hill), but only at moderate accerelation (~2000RPM). This knocking dissapears during heavier throttle (more than 3000 RPM) and during very light throttle (less than 1500 RPM). Maybe it's this range (1500 RPM - 3000 RPM) that the EGR valve is open. Any thoughts?

--terminalis

PS: Sorry, guys, if what I said here is a complete [non-permissible content removed]. I'm trying to learn mechanic stuffs, ever since I bought my Accord. I don't know if I should thank Honda for this, but it's fun. Maybe I'll learn enough one day to fix cars myself.

auburn63 · October 2000

Tires can be shipped out of balance but it is rare.When you get some time bring it in and let a tech here the noise and see what he says..

Butch11
The rocker can be inpected only by disasseble.So try making the adjustment on a completely cold motor first and see if it is out.The spec is under the hood,but I think it is .25mm for the intake and .30mm for the exaust.

Terminalis,
The other part number is for the other side of the head.They are shaped differantly and so they have differant part numbers.As far as the noise you hear I remember seeing something similar but not sure if it was for an Accord
or not so I will check on tuesday.

Fritz1224,
I don't mind it really I don't.I just don't want people to feel like they don't need to post because I will or that I am a know it all or something.I enjoy every ones post even those who disagree....See ya

fritz1224 · October 2000

I shouldn't have posted that last comment. There's no such thing as a stupid question if the subject hasn't already been rehashed a dozen times.

adg44 · October 2000

Only stupid people.

pat455 · October 2000

Ohhhh, I don't think we have to go any further into "stupid" kinds of things, okay? :-)

Fritz, you can delete the post for which you are apologizing if you'd like by clicking on the highlighted (linked) post number and then choosing scribble.

Might as well take this opportunity once again to thank auburn63 for his incredible patience and generosity in his willingness to share his knowledge with our community.

You are terrific, auburn, no doubt about it! Our entire community is grateful.

Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference

terminalis · October 2000

Auburn,

Thanks again for your help. I wish you're around here, so that I can take my Accord to you (and also to buy you a beer!).

Also, many thanks to those beside Auburn who have provided useful info and help. This is a great forum.

--terminalis

auburn63 · October 2000

I am glad to try and provide help and opinions.This is a great forum as terminalis has said. Many thanks to all for their kindness and the virtual beer.

99accord1 · October 2000

I have a 1999 Accord Sedan that only has 7,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed some wind and highway noise coming from the drivers door. It almost sounds like the door is not closed all the way (but it is).

I called around to some dealers my area and I could not find a bulletin on such a problem. Has anyone had this problem? If not can anyone make any suggestions?

This problem is very annoying ... as most of my commute is highway driving.

Help!

mountainman198 · October 2000

My 1991 Honda Accord EX began burning oil about 1
year and 10,000 miles ago. Prior to this point it
used no oil and did not smoke. Now it uses about
2 quarts of oil per month and smokes quite a bit.
The smoking is greatest upon application of the
accelerator immediately following in-gear
deceleration (e.g. coasting in gear down a hill).
I took it in for a checkup and the mechanic told
me that the engine was bad. What should I look for to determine if it's the rings vs. just the valve guides? I am ready to replace the engine if
needed but would rather fix the immediate problem instead of paying the big bucks. Ideas? Thanks.

snowman · October 2000

I was religiously keeping the pressure on my michelins at 32psi. Couple days back I realized, edges of the front tires started to wear out quicker than midle part of the surface area which indicates lower pressure. Tread deep was different. I checked the pressure both were 31 psi. No pulling or vibration either, alignment is completely fine. I immediately inflated to 34psi. The label at the door frame says it should be 30 psi. My question is if my tires are having this issue at 31 psi then setting them for 30psi will accelarate the problem, so what is the optimum pressure?
Thanks for eveybody and Auburn63.

liquidp · October 2000

I found this post in superhonda.com. The topic was about increasing response time to the gas pedal.

A couple people did the following:
Hey guys this has been discussed before...do a search on throttle cables. Anyway, us 3.0 V6rs you loosen the lock nuts on the gas pedal cable (cable closest to the firewall) and then slide the cable back to remove the slack in the cable in relation to the throttle plate itself. Don't overdo it or you may have idling problems...just enough so that
the throttle plate opens at about the same time you pull on the cable. Look closely at how the linkage system is mocked up before you start. You'll notice that it has a 2 stage system of resistance in the feel of it as you pull the cable back...Honda's way of keeping old ladies from driving their cars into the traffic in front when they tip into the throttle. The first stage, as I call it, when you pull on the throttle cable is all SLACK, then the second stage is when the throttle plate linkage is CONTACTED and the plate opens...just dial out the first stage. Then enjoy your more responsive accelerator pedal guys (gals, too)!!

Another person with the following:
Hey you guys....tightening your throttle bolt isnt such a good idea. I did that at first from my friend's advice, and the pedal felt more responsive, but his uncle (who works with racing and stuff) said that it isnt good. Here is the main reason: when you turn on your engine, your car might have a tendency to "jump" into the gear that your car is shifting into. Say if you shifted to reverse, the car might jump and try to go reverse even when you dont press the pedal. And i heard from someone else also that tightening the throttle bolt isnt a good idea. So thats why i changed mine back. Just keep it on the factory setting. Just advice, i dont want you guys screwing up nice cars like ours.

Auburn63, if I do this, will this harm my car and void my warranty? Thanks.

liquidp · October 2000

I have a 2000 accord 4dr V6 at 19,000 miles. I have the front tires at 37psi and rear tires at 36 psi. The tires have no uneven wear. Plus I drive 25% of time very aggresively.

auburn63 · October 2000

snowman,
The recomended tire presure isn't so much for the best tire wear as it is for the best ride and how they set up the car.For example,the car's speedometer and odometer are calibrated at the recomended pressure.Is there any harm ? I don't think you will see a differance in anything except maybe the ride a little,..So if pumping up the pressure a bit increases the life of your tires then that is not such a bad thing.

Liquidp,
If you do not go to tight then you will only change the cars and your response time.At fully closed throttle the plate is closed and as long as you do not go to tight and start pulling on the throttle then it will remain closed and will not know the differance.The sensor is on the throttle plate/body not the cable or pedal.As far as the warranty goes.......what do you mean my cable is too tight? How did it get that way? I only service my cars with Honda..

No it does no harm except if to tight it will cause the computer to not read correctly.Which can cause high and erratic idles as well as other performance problems are possible but if not too tight then all will be normal..

silvercoupe · October 2000

Have you had your wheels rotated as specified by Honda? If not, the fronts will wear on the outside edges pretty bad.

I would think that if you go much over 32 psi the ride would be quite rough.

liquidp · October 2000

Thanks for your help.

liquidp · October 2000

silvercoupe is right, I rotate my tires every 7,500 miles. For me, I like the rough ride.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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