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Comments
Jar- So far, all my vehicles have given off the rotten egg smell. Usually it goes away on the first long drive. Long drive to me, highway speeds, 30min or so both ways. From what I understand, changing the cats may not help as this smell usually comes from the oil in the pipes that prevent them from corroding during transport/storage. The smell is the oil burning off and the metal "curing" Something like that.
Wish you both luck
dunno if i'll get one sent for my '00 ex coupe automatic that i sold about 2 months after you sold yours. i also felt that something was wrong with my tranny..it felt like it was slipping. (had someone else with me who agreed). that put the bug in my mind to start looking for a 5-speed. (i'd had paint issues with the car, and had never fully wanted an auto, so this basically changed my mind). i ended up trading the car in for an '02 5speed coupe right before the '03's came out.
i find all of this very interesting and am a) glad i wasn't loosing my mind imagining things, and b) glad i got rid of it when i did.
----
on a brighter note, the silver paint on my '02 is perfect, haven't had a problem yet (whereas on my black '00 the hood looked like crap after a week), it's a smooth ride and i'm still loving the body style.
Yeap! I had the same experience, it felt like it was in neutral as I slowed down to below 5mph and I would have to come to a complete stop before proceeding and then it started to "slip" between 2nd and 3rd gear mostly when it was cold. I tried to get some assistance from the dealer and when they wouldn't help I went to Honda and I guess that at that time they were unwilling to own up to their faulty tranny design. Also had the pitted paint problems, I assumed it was from hiway driving, but there were alot more than I ever would have expected on a new car and the unpolished allow rims pitted within 2 years too, again I tried to get some help from another dealer (I changed dealers after no help on tranny etc.) and again no help. At least I can say I tried the HOnda route and learned my lesson.
Sunroof - no problems with squeaks.
Tranny - no "clunk", but I've got the slight shudder at 30-40mph, only noticable on inclines. Hardly notice it anymore.
Paint - yep, it scratches pretty easily.
Fuel guage - just started reading 3/4 on a full tank 2 weeks ago. Low fuel light now doesn't come on until it's on "E".
Does anybody know what the cost should be to replace the fuel sending unit? We have only one dealer in town and I want to see what dealers have been charging to fix this. It's no longer under warranty.
Also, I get a "tea kettle" whistle between 70-80mph. Doesn't happen at any other speeds, and is there whether the radio is on or off. I don't have an aftermarket radio or amp. Auburn63, I read previous posts regarding this problem at low speeds. I believe your fix was to re-route a ground that was near the right shock assembly? Wondering if this could be the same problem?
Any help on these issues would be great. Thanks.
Does anyone know how long a odometer backlight for a 1999 Accord is supposed to last? Recently the dealer checked out my car's ignition switch and after they completed their work, I noticed my odometer backlight was out. The fuses seem to be OK. And everything else seems to be working OK.
I took my car back to the service department and they told me that the work they did on my ignition switch had nothing to do with the odometer backlight. They insisted that the wiring and systems were separate and what they did could not have affected the light. Is the service manager lying to me? I think it's more than co-incidental that my odometer backlight stopped working after bringing it into the service department. Incidently my car only has 50K on it.
I am the 2nd owner of a 2000 Accord V6 EX with 124,000 km ( 77,000 miles). The car did not have an extended warranty. I live in the Halifax, Nova Scotia area (Canada). Soon after buying it I identified a constant shudder/vibration in the transmission at 1500 - 2000 rpm. In July 02 I went to the dealer and was told it was a Torque Converter "lock-up clutch" problem. The transmission would have to be replaced at my expense ( $ 5,000.00 Cdn ) to solve the problem.
Thats when I started surfing for Honda web sites and found this one. By reading everyone's comments related to tranny problems I was able to track the history of these problems and was preparing my case for "Small Claims Court". Then it was mentioned, on this board, that Honda U.S.A. had extended the power train warranty for the transmissions of specific Honda vehicles (20 Sep 02).
Up to this time, my dealer and Honda Canada were not interested in helping to solve my problem by defraying some of the costs (hence small claims court). A phone call to my dealer in October resulted in my transmission being replaced, free of charge, 3 weeks later!!!
A big thanks to everyone out there for the help. Keep on bitching since there is a purpose to your madness.
As a post script I would like to mention, for the benefit of any Canadian owners out there, that they should be aware of the following:
a. all Honda Accords are built in the U.S. --- check your VIN # . If the first digit is "1" it is built in the U.S. If it is a "2", its built in Canada.
b. do not expect your dealer or Honda Canada to contact you about a transmission extended warranty. My impression from discussions with both is this repair will be treated as a "Goodwill" gesture in Canada not as a warranty extension. You will have to complain to get service.
Thanks a lot.
I made an appointment for them to look at my car the following week. I asked again if this was going to cost me anything and again the service advisor told me that it was under warranty. I spoke to my service advisor before going to pick up my car and he told me that Honda has steps that I must take before they replace my transmission. The first step would be to have the transmission fluid flushed 3 times. Only when I was told this he said that I would have to pay $390 for this procedure. After the transmission is flushed then I should drive it for a while and then they would retest it before replacing it.
I received my extended warranty in the mail yesterday and no where does it say that I will have to pay for any steps. I am very frustrated with the whole situation. Does this sound right to anyone out there?
Also, the rear brakes are starting to squeel in stop and go traffic. The car sometimes idles rough and the exhaust sometimes has a sulfur smell - both common complaints with the 2003. None of these problems are enough for me to go to the dealer just yet.
from a quality and technology standpoint, this car is the best $22k choice. styling is subjective, but i think it will grow on most everyone as it has on me. i've test-driven and scrutinized the camry and altima, and it was hard to deny the accord even if it's not perfect.
i'll post soon my purchasing experience where i got the new car at invoice and traded the old one at the "private party" price.
also sat inside the new mazda 6 and found it to be smaller and containing lower-quality materials.
They are not all crooks-find another dealer. If you would let us know who this dealer is-maybe others can avoid this slime ball.
See my 2003 Alignment Entry Above. I'm not satisfied with my Honda. Of course, I came from a Z71 to an Accord. But, I do not like the way it pulls to the right. Taken if back four times. Think it's time for a new vehicle.
Thanks again.
Regarding the fuel sending unit, do you know what a fair repair charge would be?
Before I take it in, do you have any guesses as to what this might be?
Thanks... Talon
About 6 months ago had a 2 digit code of 90, took it to another dealer-was on the road-they also got a 1457 code when they scanned the system. This time they replaced the evaporative emission control cannister vent shut valve. That was at 113K.
Wonder if something is going on with the evap system as both of these things are associated with that system-if so would like to find out before 150K as the extended warranty goes away.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Will call the service supervisor at this honda dealership and ask him if this could be the cause of the problem-I fill it till it burps-shake it and put in some more.
Oh the engine has always IMHO been a bit noisey-got the best ears at the dealership svc dept to listen to it and they said-NADA PROBLEMO-sounds fine.
thanks for the reply
This is a very simplistic explanation, but you get the jest. I even think my manual mentions to stop pumping when the nozzle shuts off.
Torque steer-wise, several magazines have mentioned that the Accord is much better from a torque steer standpoint than the similarly powered Altima.
I have a 2000 Accord EX V-6, and I'd buy it again if I had it to do all over.
Hondas like Toyotas are great cars. If you drive a new Accord I doubt you'll feel a pull to the right or hear a rattle.
Of course, I drive in ride in them every day. I have yet to feel a pull, hear a rattle or have an Accord fail to start for me.
It must be remembered that these forums will attract the people with problems.
Problems are why warranties exist.
Good luck with your decision.
I guess that means I should enjoy wasting my time sitting in a service lounge waiting for my car to get fixed.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ray T.
Overall, the chipped keys have that experience w/ many vehicles... my GM had the same thing happen a few times. Especially after disconnecting the battery. This is the price we pay for all these buggers stealing our great cars... even Toyota has gone to the chipped key in the '02 on Camry.
Best advice I can give you is to test drive the car. Seriously, sounds like the biggest hitter you have is with ride/tranny related issues. I think that you will enjoy the Accord. I haven't had any major problems with mine yet...