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Comments
Geeez--never heard a rattle, a squeak or pulling right! I have to say one thing---isellhondas must be one heck of a salesman!
I would not do anything until you try a good 10W-30 SL rated oil. My personal recommendation would be Chevron Supreme or Pennzoil.
By the way you will find much more expertise about engine oil and additives at Bobistheoilguy.com. Visit there and see if you can get more help. I am certainly not qualified to be giving advice.
As far as warranties go...the best warranty is the one you never or seldom have to use. I fully agree. Hondas do very well in that catagory. Much better than most. I think even you would have to agree with that?
When someone finally builds a perfect car that never has the slighest problem, than warranties will no longer be necessary.
Of course, then we wouldn't have this "problems" board either.
But let's get realistic, Honda screwed up on some basics with the 1998-02 Accord. I mean come on, rattling sunroofs, transmission problems, dashboard rattles. These are things I don't want to spend time at the service dept. for, especially when other manufacturer's build cars without those most basic problems-except maybe the trans. problems.
It's not a perfect world.
Actually, for the record, our '02 V6 does not have one rattle anywhere after over 10,000 KM, which is more than I can say for my CL-S. So, the perfect rattle-free Accord DOES EXIST! And I've got it!
I wonder if resetting the computer for the climate control would fix this problem? Probably a fuse you can pull for it... but before you start pulling fuses, make sure ya got the code for the stereo... just in case. =o)
I agree with the in window antenna thing... the nice thing is that I hardly listen to the radio, so it doesn't bother me much... they probably got rid of it so that they could get the "cheetah look" they were aiming for... (never seen a cheetah with an antennae sticking out of him... hehe)
Having said that, it has always seemed to me that you HAVE to give the folk who hold the warranty a chance to do their jobs. If they can't solve it in a reasonable time, that's an issue, of course, but on this board and the mainstream Accord forum, there have been many cases of these problems being solved without further ado. And every attempt, successful or not, gets sent to Honda as a warranty claim from the dealer service dept, and that is the only way the factory knows it has problems to solve.
But, yeah...it would take forever to switch from disc to disc.
Another "problem" I've never heard of before.
Interesting...
Turns out it was the ignitor (ignition module?). Problem was fixed at dealer and car runs well.
Thanks again
Any insight into the extent of problem I have on hand? I'm disappointed they didn't acknowledge during the install and not sure I even want them to make repair. Also not looking fwd to possible hassle trying to proove fault.
Questions - How is the wheel (lug nut) removed when stripped? Does it need to be drilled off? What part(s) will need replacement? Is this relatively easy and commonplace repair for a tire shop? I'm concerned there may be short cuts taken and I may be better off going to dealer and cutting my losses. Can someone fill me in on extent of repair needed - that'll help decide route to take. Thanks.
Rears on most are simple-however if u have rear disc brakes-that may complicate things.
They had told (wife)that the lug nut was on too tight and they were afraid it would snap, so "come back when parts are on hand". But when I tried at home it seems more the case of stripped - not too tight at all.
Yeah, I may have good records from their original install only 3 months ago - but pretty hard to proove to them that nobody else has touched wheel (if they want to be difficult).
I'll talk to mgr tomorrow but at least I now have a better understanding of repair. Thanks again.
Good Luck.
verifying the complaint and taking corrective
action/ Anybody out there been contacted??
I have the 5MT and with about 70/30 mixed city/highway driving, I have been getting about 25.2-26.9MPG. Then agian I have a pretty heavy foot, and rarely shift at the recommended speeds.
I think you should let them figure it out. After all, you don't want your car to not start one day in the middle of nowhere.
From my observation, I came up with an answer that it might be a bad alternator that's causing this problem. Because everytime i turn on the A/C, the idle drops to about 400 RPM then goes up to 900 RPM, and when idle dropped, that's when the vibration began. At the same time when the idle dropped, the gauge light and stereo light would dim a bit. Same reaction when turning on the rear window defroster. And just recently when driving at night the headlights and all the illumination lights in the interior would suddently dim a bit and go back to normal immediately, therefore my assumption is that the problem may be a bad alternator? Because I'm thinking about taking to an indenpendent Honda repair shop and just get a new alternator, since they dealer never wants to do anything.
Please advice if I should take this step, I want to fix this problem yet don't want to waste any money.
By the way, I thought it was the alternator too and the mechanic checked it and said it was in working order.
I have the I4 and my lights dim, but that is pretty normal as it is usually when the fans turn on. They come right back within a sec though. My idle doesn't drop to 400 when I turn on the A/C, though...
1997monte... what I am going to try on mine is some lube for the rubber seals. Gonna ask around a bit to figure out what to use, as I have heard a few different suggestions. I believe mine is coming from "body flex" where the body will flex slightly, but the door won't so the rubber seal will "slip" a little... I will let ya know how I do... BTW.. when I had my TrailBlazer, this was told to me by my mechanic, something about tighter doors/seals now to reduce wind noise, etc. This lubing is recommended every 6mos by my mechanic, only a very light coat, though...